Need Help Buying a Drill. Difference between Cheap and Expensive Drills?

• 

  poboy on 14/03/2017 - 22:24

  +8

  Sounds like you need a cheap corded Ozito drill with some good quality drill bits. Good quality drill bits make all the difference. I use Sutton's.

  • 

    Nugs on 15/03/2017 - 06:24

    "a cheap corded Ozito drill "

    with hammer function. assuming bathroom is masonry.

    my first $45 pink ozito hammer corded drill lasted 10-12 yrs, I've now got an SCA one ($20) and another cheapie (hand me down). I do prefer to use the $125 Stanley cordless as gotten from Masters for 'little' jobs.

• 

  BensonP on 14/03/2017 - 22:28

  +1

  That drill will be fine for odd jobs.

  If you were using a drill everyday, not a chance. More expensive drills, are better built, better batteries, more powerful. (Generally)

  I have 18V Milwaukee gear and it's fantastic. Also used Ryobi and Makita. (I found Makita average at best).

  More expensive drills may be 'brushless'. These are more effecient​, and more powerful again.

• 

  Bigsta on 14/03/2017 - 22:35

  +3

  How long is a piece of string… the one you are looking at is not much more then a screwdriver and maybe drill through pine but probably would not have enough power to get through it.

  A decent 18V cordless set will have a impact driver and a hammer drill, bunnings have 18V AEG kits for around $3-400 which are alright and actually just old model Mlywlakies.

  Sydney tools have good specials every now and then where you can get a Mlywalkie brusheless hammer and impact driver for around $675, may sound pricey bit will last forever and do the job everytime where the ozito stuff you will probably throw out after using it once.

  For you though a 240V hammer drill may be a better option as they are pretty cheap and have enough power to do the job, dont skimp on drill bits and dont drill into concrete unless you get a better one that has a safety clutch. watch some youtube videoes of how to drill into tiles so you dont crack em and make sure you push the plug past the tile. something liek this might meet your budget and jobs around the house requirements https://www.bunnings.com.au/makita-710w-13mm-hammer-drill_p6…

  • 

    kywst on 14/03/2017 - 22:46

    So I suppose Ryobis are just old AEGs then … TTI Group

    She'll be right mate.

    • 

      Bigsta on 14/03/2017 - 22:49

      Something like that, other brands as well, the homelite stuff they use to sell was much the same as the 14V Ryobi crap from 15 years ago.

      The non brushless impact AEG they sell now has exactly the same motor as the old M18 Mlywalkie.

  • 

    HoneyComb on 14/03/2017 - 22:55

    thank you for the thoughtful responce and the recommendation

• 

  elusive on 14/03/2017 - 22:41

  +4

  Like others, I'd say a cheap drill is usually fine for light jobs. However, I'd also say never buy a NiCad drill - the batteries don't last long and have crazy self-discharge, not to mention the memory effect (specific to NiCad), so they'll probably be useless in three years. Corded is fine, Li-ion batteries are good (top up once a year), and Ni-MH batteries are acceptable.

• 

  Cheeper on 14/03/2017 - 22:48

  +2

  When you are at bunnings look for a corded drill branded XU1. They are not advertised on their site but often they are in store. They were around $20 and the one I have had for about 15 years has never faulted and it has done some rough work.
  Drill bits are expensive and you will always break the small ones, it is cheaper to buy them in lots of 10 if possible.
  Your outlay will pay for itself over time… no doubt about that.
  Anything you are doubtful about with do-it-yourself stuff just watch a few videos on youtube… they cover just about everything.

  TIP. When drilling into walls be careful not to drill into electrical wiring or plumbing.

  • 

    altomic on 15/03/2017 - 01:50

    +1

    Yes, the XU1 from bunnings. I bought one when I relocated my tin garage. Had to replace aluminum panels and the corrugated roof. Ended drilling around 500 holes in to 4mm steel frame work. The XU1 is still going strong. Also used it for drilling 10mm holes into concrete - no problem.

    Don't buy a cheap cordless. Get an inexpensive corded.

• 

  kywst on 14/03/2017 - 22:50

  Ryobi Brushless Drill + Driver set is the droid you are looking for. Mine are still going strong 12 months down the track and have seen 15+ frames & fit-outs. Don't get me wrong … I'll be upgrading to a Panasonic set shortly but they performed far better than expected.

• 

  airzone on 14/03/2017 - 23:03

  +2

  What are you drilling into? Drywall / pine frames, or masonry? Different drills and especially bits are suited to different materials.

  • 

    HoneyComb on 14/03/2017 - 23:48

    masonry and tiles.

    don't know what type of tiles it is. the high gloss tiles that look like glass.

    • 

      airzone on 15/03/2017 - 00:06

      +2

      You'll need a hammer drill with masonry bits, and you'll also need something variable speed without hammer (or at least selectable hammer) and the correct tile bit for the tile you're cutting into.

      For ceramic tiles, you can get away with a masonry bit, slowly.. But ceramic tiled need a diamond bit, and there is some technique involved. If you're unsure, the diamond tile will also do a ceramic tile.

      The drill you linked will be inadequate for masonry. Also, an impact driver is not a hammer drill.

      Also, before drilling, make sure you know where the power, water, and gas lines run. Hitting any of those cause you to have a bad day.

      The cheapest cordless model will be something like https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-power-x-change-18v-compact… - but I'm not sure how good the hammer function will be

      • 

        kywst on 17/03/2017 - 21:39

        -1

        When was the last time you drilled through a ceramic tile with a regular masonry bit? You mad? and don't tell me you have cause you haven't (successfully). Also a hammer function is not necessary for drilling into masonry but it certainly assists and speeds up the process. If old mate is drilling into masonry then the chances of hitting power, water or gas are slim to none given there's no cavity to hold said obstacles … bloody google hero.

      • 

        airzone on 18/03/2017 - 01:29

        +1

        @kywst: Settle down sunshine. You must never have lived in an apartment building, or an old house with retro-fitted power.

      • 

        kywst on 18/03/2017 - 12:02

        -1

        @airzone: Meh, whatever. Dirty the well.

• 

  PJC on 15/03/2017 - 00:31

  +1

  This drill you are considering is rather weak at 12V and it is better to avoid Ni-Cad …
  https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-12v-nicad-10mm-drill-drive…
  … and instead get an 18V Lithium-Ion kit …
  https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-power-x-change-18v-compact…
  … which for $99 gets you plenty power, 40-minute charging, and 5-year replacement warranty.

• 

  GnarlyKnuckles on 15/03/2017 - 03:58

  +10

  This is the part of your post that I can't believe no one else has commented on yet:

  'I enquired for a handyman who said they would replace everything for me for $80'

  That is, quite simply, the bargain of the century. You should be all over that offer like a rash.

  The reason is that that dude is likely to know what they are doing at least to a greater extent than you, and will thus perform the required tasks at least reasonably (maybe not perfectly, but sheesh, you said $80 right?)…

  Trust me… even if you still decide you want to buy a drill to use yourself later, get this dude in for the $80, and watch what he or she does, and ask THEM about your future needs/what drill THEY recommend. They will be much better informed than us, because they will see first-hand what you are contending with, and you can watch them while they work/ask them specific questions. I think it could be the best $80 you ever spent. Far out man… $80?!? THAT'S a bargain.

  • 

    havebeerbelywillsumo on 15/03/2017 - 04:48

    +1

    Quick thoughts…$80 is extremely competitive - ** as long as the tradie is competent **, if so take that offer. Drilling tiles is a difficult job (drill skids on gloss surface - ie won't make a hole, will just slide about, tile can shatter. IMHO drilling tiles calls for a good drill and the right bits. +++ goes to the advice to do some youtubing. Masonry - I assume you mean brick/Besser block? If so you need a masonry drillbit or three not just the normal drill bits that will most likely come with a drill in a kit and you need a quality masonry drillbit as that is hard work for the bit. Also depending on the size and depth of the hole needed you may need different sizes so you can increase the hole size in steps….note that it will be a noisy job if neighbours are a problem so be warned. You also don't use a conventional drill, you need a hammer/impact drill. Basically the drill thumps the surface as it drills so as to break it up allowing the drill to penetrate a lot more easily. Unless in dire straits you simply don't use a conventional only drill no matter how good it is, same - you don't use conventional drill bits.

    As you may have now gathered there is a lot more to consider than "just poking a hole, that can't be too hard can it". The material drilled into dictates the power of the drill being used (also some wood is extremely and surprisingly hard, usually only in older homes), the type of drill and the type of bit.

    The youtube tip was good, if you have a decent hardware store handy having a natter with a knowledgable staffer would be a good idea. Don't be afraid to say "I haven't got a clue", we all have to start somewhere.

    Just as an aside you'll need to consider the surface you've just pocked a hole into when you go to stick in/on whatever you're drilling. There is a further complexity here in order to end up with a securely fitted piece of whatever

    Finally (and I understand there could be many reasons why it's not possible) have you spoken to your dad?.

    In short there are many drills because there are many complexities and difficulties in bunging in an 'ole and doing a good quick job. There are many drillbits for the same reason.

    ASIDE you also need to consider what you've just drilled into when you come to ++ securely and for a long term job ++ attaching whatever, this is another area of complexity. A screw is good for wood, but, masonry - no, plasterboard - no, chipboard - maybe and maybe not. These are just the tip of the iceberg.

    • 

      Euphemistic on 15/03/2017 - 09:14

      ** as long as the tradie is competent **

      and there is the catch! There could be a very good reason this particular tradie is so cheap, can't get work otherwise.

  • 

    derek324 on 15/03/2017 - 08:00

    Old dilemma: would you rather buy a fish and feed yourself for a day, or would you rather learn how to fish, and feed yourself for a lifetime?

    • 

      ESEMCE on 15/03/2017 - 08:16

      If you can buy the fish cheaper than it would cost you to go fishing AND learn how to fish at the same time as in this case, buy the fish!

      • 

        derek324 on 15/03/2017 - 10:10

        Not really cheaper, and becoming more and more expensive when there are small jobs in the future. Not much use for knowledge unless you buy tools and DYI. Not the best method to learn if you keep annoying a tradesman watching over his shoulder and asking asking why and how he does this and that (unless he is a good friend). On the other hand… there are hundreds of "how do I use a drill" YouTube videos, this is not exactly a rocket science, and decent corded drills are cheap.

• 

  Euphemistic on 15/03/2017 - 07:16

  +2

  For only rare use buy corded. Avoid ni-cad completely.

  If you are thinking you might get into DIY work and do more and more then Consider 18v lithium, you can buy additional 'skins' (the tool without the battery) for other tasks. I've been pretty happy with my ryobi 18v gear. Had the drill for about 4 years and it is still going strong, got about 15 skins as well, but I've rebuilt several bedrooms with the gear and it is still going strong. An important thing for cordless tools is to use the batteries regularly, so if you are using once a year corded would be a better bet. I use my batteries about every fortnight as I also have a whipper snipper and blower for garden work.

• 

  Seraphin7 on 15/03/2017 - 09:39

  For basic jobs, go something at the lower end of the price range. Someone once told me that drills sold to average homeowners are actually used for about 4 minutes across their life. That is, they get bought to do a few odd jobs and never used again.

  But I would say as others have, if you're drilling into things like tiles, get someone to do it for you. You can end up in a horrible mess scratching/breaking tiles very easily.

• 

  FirstNameLastName on 15/03/2017 - 19:22

  +1

  i just got $340 cordless dewalt hammer/drill/driver for $50 clearance at bunnings (last one or would have posted the deal).. love it.. and i actually needed it as I'm building a shed..

  op could consider gumtree
  heaps of dewalt/millywacky etc on there very cheap.
  just ensure you get batteries and charger with it, and see it working, that drill-bits don't wobble, drill sounds/smells normal etc.
  ensure it doesn't look too beat up/neglected.
  could ask for receipt (mind you dewalt 3yr support but may not be transferable).

  • 

    PJC on 15/03/2017 - 19:40

    +1

    $50 is extraordinary. Well done.

• 

  Krizy on 16/03/2017 - 04:09

  https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-power-x-change-brushless-h…

  This is the cheapest hammer drill at Bunnings and it's also brushless. Go for that or risk end up buying a second drill later when you realise the one you have doesn't do everything you thought a drill would do.

  If you're not interested in DIY and you just want to save money, hire that handyman. You won't save money when you're buying equipment. If you're wanting to learn then you might mistakes along the way, which will cost more time and money, but it can be conveniently time-efficient in the long run once you are familiar with basic DIY tasks.

  You wouldn't buy a coffee machine to save money on cafe coffees; only if you were either a coffee fanatic or wanted the at-home convenience. Doing it yourself is not inherently cost efficient unless you already own the equipment, and that 'investment' may not pay for itself if you get fed up with the work.

  • 

    derek324 on 16/03/2017 - 09:23

    You will save money when you buy your own equipment, the key is "in the long run". Maybe not the first time around. But the OP wants to do "a few other very basic things around the home" - that is an ongoing activity.

    For what the OP describes I would not recommended a pricey brushless cordless tool. A below $100 mid-range corded drill would suit him better — just one example: https://www.bunnings.com.au/bosch-680w-corded-impact-drill_p… Sure, if in future he decides to do more, and needs more tools, buying into a system of quality semi-pro cordless tools makes sense.

    Consider this: with never ending stream of small jobs around the house, do you really want to waste your money and time waiting for a handyman every time you need to drill a few holes? Wouldn't you rather learn to do simpler tasks yourself, on your own terms, when it is convenient, and learn something new in the process?

• 

  FirstNameLastName on 16/03/2017 - 13:30

  One major positive for cordless for a noobie is the ability to switch off power to house while working.. Could be a lifesaver. Father and son died recently from electrocution doing a bathroom reno.

  Also convenience of being able to take drill easily outside or to the car etc may be a big help

  • 

    Euphemistic on 18/03/2017 - 14:12

    +1

    Absolutely. Cordless is all but mandatory on construction sites now as you don't need to test and tag and then run cords everywhere. Much safer, more convenient.

    I reckon the cordless gear is almost as good as corded for power, but the convenience wins hands down. I've redone all the bedrooms at home and mostly used cordless tools. The only things that I used corded were the drop saw, circular saw and twice used the corded hammer drill. Rest of the time was all cordless. drills, impact driver, recip saw, plane, multi tool and a couple of lights. I have 4 batteries so running out of power wasn't a big issue if they went on the charger shortly after dying. Soooo much more convenient.