Is It Time to Get Rid of My Mercedes Benz?

Hi just looking for some opinions about my situation.

Currently own a 2002 Mercedes Benz ML 320 with ~150,000km (I assume the car is worth $~7500).
In the past 5 years, the car has been giving me numerous electrical issues. As of right now, the car is at the MB dealer due to a recent complication where it wouldn't start (start error on the dash).

MB thought it was the key and had it replaced for $500 (with labour costing 180/hr). Now it's believed to be the EAM that's faulty and I've been quoted for a $2000 repair. Furthermore, they say there could be more complications apart form the EAM that they cannot detect at this point.

Other complications included:

  • An ongoing leaking sunroof which we taped off (drainage pipe keeps disconnecting even after we reattach it) which previously shorted out the wiring loom, costing $1000 to fix.
  • Power steering leak which was fixed but killed the alternator requiring a replacement (~$800)
  • Front left ABS wheel sensor fault which was replaced(~$350)

What are your opinions in regards to if i should let this car go? I have not yet decided to go through with the $2000 repair.

I should add I've only been driving ~2000km/year for the past 3 years.

TIA!

Poll Options expired

  • 204
    Get rid of it
  • 3
    Repair it

Comments

  • +23

    When the repair bill adds up to a similar value of the whole car, time to move it on.

    • Any possibility i could sell the dead car off?
      On the top of my head i'm thinking gumtree or something

      • +6

        I'm thinking bury it or something.
        With your recent fault list, this vehicle should of had a few Gs spent on it a while ago, or bite the bullet and bury it now. It is only a '02 ML320, so unless it is the mother to your children, or some other sentimental value, give it the Bic salute.

        Read the Law on advertising/selling a non roadworthy vehicle. Being a non starter with possible other faults, it is very unroadworthy. Selling any non starting, or non driving vehicle reduces the sale drasticaly regardless how good the rest of vehicle is. Further, selling an broken unregistered and unroadworthy vehicle is scrap value nearly, for parts/wreck or restore.

        To truly be able to make an informed decision you need a lot more fact and info. Have a report done by a non Merc workshop, and then stay away from dealers. Or, find another Merc lover who has the hobby of repairing his 320, and ask to feed him and give beer to fix yours.

  • well you can't sell a non starting car specially for that price i think. So have it sorted first then sell it! That's my suggestion.

    • +1

      Sorry i didn't mean i was expecting to sell it that high, i was just estimating the rough value if it was working fine, just so you could see the repair costs nearly totalling the cost of the car.

  • Post on gumtree or ring various wreckers around your area, some even pick up for free. You won't get anywhere near what you think you can sell it for but at least it'll be gone

  • +10

    LUCKY IT SURVIVED TILL 150K KM

    • hahaha that's how i'm feeling right now sir

    • +5

      But, but, somethign something German engineering /s

      • Isn't it made in the USA?

        USA built X5s are also shit.

        • Really? I didn't think we would get US-built Mercs in Australia.

        • @gokhanh:

          All ML's are made in the USA.

    • I can't believe these things are still on the road. Family of mine had one. No end of issues. Non starting engine, laggy brake pedal that would make a leaking sound, every error under the sun lighting up on the dash….

  • +27

    Why are you repairing a 15 year old car at a dealer?

    Take it to an independent mechanic, tell him to use 2nd hard parts from a wrecker to get it working and sell it.

    What's an EAM?

    • Could only get a new key from MB and programmed officially (autoelectrician referred me because the thought the key was faulty).

      I have brought it to ultratune which referred me to an autoelectrician previously. This is when i got the left wheel ABS sensor diagnosed and was quoted $500 for a new one. I then went to a wrecker and bought the sensor for $200, and costed $150 to install by ultratune.

      Also i should add i live rural qld, making it difficult to get spare parts.

      Faulty EAM module, unfortunately that's all i know.

      • +5

        I have brought it to ultratune

        I was thinking of non-branded service place. There seems to be a 'euro' car specialist of every street corner in Sydney.

        Also i should add i live rural qld, making it difficult to get spare parts.

        Will also make it difficult to sell … best option is going to be scrap it.

        Could only get a new key from MB and programmed officially

        Not sure about Mercedes, but there's plenty of people on gumtree that will laser cut + program car keys for $200. Rural QLD will make that difficult too.

      • I've been told by different industry people that Ultratune's target when you bring any older car in is to find $700+ worth of repairs they can charge you for, regardless of the condition your car is in. I had them look at my 99 Mazda once, they listed 3 legitimate problems (at wildy inflated prices), missed one, and listed $400 worth of things that weren't necessary. Oh, and they lost my dipstick and left the dipstick hole open.

        So yeah, independent mechanic. One with a clean shop and a good reputation will be able to give you better advice about what to do with the car than all of us who haven't seen it.

    • +2

      The EAM is Extended activity module. It monitors activity across the other electronic modules.
      In this model the key coding information is stored in the EAM.
      One of the know faults that leads to the EAM burning out is leaks from the water drains being blocked and allowing water to make its way down and into the fuse box/module area.
      The dealers have specialised electronic equipment to reprogram the module to accept the keys once it is replaced.
      I'd be making sure the water leak is fixed first though.

  • +2

    Agree with some of the comments about an independent mechanic. Personally speaking, mine's saved me a heap of money with the aim to repair rather than replace everything with OEM or original parts.

    Unfortunately, this is beginning to turn into a money pit - suggested advice, see if you can have an affordable fix done and sell ASAP.

    A faulty EAM module will be pricey in terms of labour and programming. A faulty light module on my German car cost me about 1400 AUD in repairs + parts - basically had no lights on the right side of the car (indicators, headlights, etc).

  • As cars have got more complicated they are more expensive to fix. They are no longer "built by communists so they can be fixed with a hammer". We are going through the same thing about our baby A-class merc, which is costing us a few thousand to repair. We decided that replacing the car was going to cost us a lot more than that, so we would fix it this time and review it once the next problem arises. The best way is to add up all the costs, talk to your repairer as to what is likely to happen in the future given the condition of the car, think about what a replacement will cost and see how the number stack up. Cars depreciate so quickly it is easy to say - "but the book value isn't worth the repair value"; however, if you buy an equivalent car for the book value it is likely to develop issues as well.

    • Thank you i'll consider this!

    • What year is your A-Class? I had a 2001 model and racked up quite a list of broken bits within 3 years. Indicator stalk, driver's seat height adjustment handles (terrible design), alternator, and a complete engine rebuild due to a snapped timing chain. Sold the car in 2004.

  • +2

    I would like to take the opportunity to whine about getting your car serviced by a dealer. We had our car serviced for a number of years by our dealer and the last quote we got was pretty ridiculous. We looked around at a few places and found one where the price was better so we went there. A little while later the dealer range back and asked why we didn't get the service done and when we explained they were "too expensive" they offered to drop 20% on the service this time as a good will gesture, (no discount on the parts mind you) . That made me even more annoyed, if I had been "difficult" all this time I could've been getting it cheaper. As we all know, people, be as difficult as you can and do the comparison.

    • +3

      I feel like this experience with the car has put me off ever getting another Merc. Would love an old fashioned Toyota landcruiser 80series or Nissan Patrol though :(

      • +1

        Before you buy anything have a good look around at the cost of the repairs, servicing, insurance and the fuel consumption; as that is where people spend the majority of the money. We all get dazzled by the luxury and think, "that isn't so expensive" until stuff starts to fail. I love my baby A-Class but they don't build them like ours anymore so we will probably look elsewhere as well; when we put the stake through ours.

      • +2

        I previously use to drive BMWs for 15 years. I use to take them to a BMW/Mercedes specialist on the Gold Coast, I probably spent in 5 years what a MB/BMW Dealership would charge for 1 service. If I had a problem they knew were to look while a dealership would try this, that and what not while charging full rate for it.

        As for replacing. TBH I'd consider a KIA with their 7 year warranty, they ahve come leaps and bounds since their early days and very reliable cars. If you're going the older route, if a Patrol do not buy one with a ZD30 - they go bang (even newer models) - trust me I've had 2 blow on me - I now have a LS1 in mine. If you are only travelling very short distances I'd stay away from mid 2000 and onward diesels as well.

    • We had ours serviced at Merc dealer was usually around $700, found another car log book service business who had 6 service bays did high end cars like Audi, Porsche & Merc's, his price was around $450.

      • Where was the other service guy?

        • +1

          In the loo:)

  • +1

    ~2000km/year? Sell the old girl and get the mobile number of a local taxi driver. Not only will you save money, you will have a reliable new friend and you will meet his/her reliable comrades when he/her is busy/unavailable when you call. You will also get where you need to be when you need to.

    Experienced_with_taxi_drivers

    • Taxi is a good idea or if you live in the inner city then sign up to a share car program like goget or flexicar.

      • +2

        Read guys… Rural Qld

    • +1

      2000km with taxis?

      Now, using these rates and assuming that you're doing 10km runs.

      (10*$1.72/km) + $4.2 flag fall + $1.5 booking fee = $22.9 * 200 = $4580/year.

      Better to buy an entry level car for $13k..

      Experienced_with_finding_the_better_bargain
  • +1

    If you have time and the inclination to work on your cars then repairs can be done economically if you know where to source parts (overseas, wreckers) etc.

    Otherwise, don't buy an old euro :)

    I have two mercs both approaching 100k kms. Are repairs expensive? Yes, but I source my parts and do my own work saving a bundle.

    E.g. My son broke the door handle on one of our cars. A local Merc fix was $2k plus. I sourced parts locally and overseas and fixed it for $400

    It takes time and some troubleshooting But I enjoy it.

    In your situation, considering you only drive it 2000 kms a year, I would be inclined to sell it cheap and get rid of it. There is no guarantee dropping another $2k will fix it. Dealers are notorious at fixing things by replacing items (at your expense) instead of thorough trouble shooting.

    • +1

      Bit difficult as i'm still a uni student and it's the family car D:

  • +2

    Mercedes are expensive to fix and this is what you buy into when new or getting on in years.

    Some friends would tell me to sell the moment I bought one.

    Good luck.

    • +1

      I would say your friends are right :)

  • You could remove a few good parts and sell them yourself… like the speakers, knobs etc.

    • I was thinking about this, but it doesn't seem like the parts are in high demand here haha

  • Plenty of ML320 lemons around from memory, get rid of it unless it's of some special significance. Also as others have said take it to an indy if in doubt. I serviced/repaired mine at Aust Star Coorparoo in Brissy (if you are anywhere near) and they will happily tell you whether it's worth the repairs or not. In my case it was and I was happy with it and still drive the car today.

    Good luck.

    • Unfortunately not close :(. Thanks anyway!

  • +11

    You don't work as an investment analyst at Westpac right

    • +1

      Caught me

  • +1

    What off-road work have you put it through? Snow, bush, beach? Westfield carpark?

    • Just your everyday roads =/

  • +1

    Being in rural qld - first thing I would consider when buying a car is to make sure I have access to local parts/support if something goes wrong.

    Landcruisers, Prados, Pajeros and Patrols are the 4x4's of choice out there. Get something like that next and get rid of the ML.

    • Landcruiser is the dream. I've been looking around for an 80 series GXL with <200,000km for around $10,000. Would be nice if i got one :p

  • Yeah, I tend to agree with the notion of selling/scraping it. Since it is a non-starter. And considering you only do ~2000km, and have done 150,000km (if that is mostly city/urban driving, that is quite a lot, you already got a decent use out of it)…

    Did you buy it new or used?

    If you buy it used, personally (in your shoes) I wouldn't even flinch. I would scraped it.

    If you buy it new… Well… you got it to 150,000km, the car is getting on a bit (age-wise), if you only do ~2000km a year, would it be better to get something like a brand new honda civic or something? (most likely you are living in the inner CBD, and probably fly around a lot), or use the public transport, and rent a car when the need arises.

    Regardless, since you are still thinking. Try to find a reputable independent mechanic and see what they say. (if they are unsure or the proposed fix is rather expensive, rather than putting any more money on it, just spare yourself the expense/frustration/headache).

    • +1

      Family got it used years ago, it was pretty much my learner car and now my uni car. Would really like to look into the option of the independant mechanic and sourcing the EAM module from another ML scrapyard

      • Would really like to look into the option of the independant mechanic and sourcing the EAM module from another ML scrapyard

        Could always give it a go yourself too … normally replacing electronic components isn't rocket science and you shouldn't need many tools. There's probably youtube videos on how to do it.

        • I guess the problem is you'd have to reprogram the EAM (i think)

        • @eoj:

          Apparently it's all the AAM after 1998.

    • Did you buy it new or used?

      What's the significance of this question?

      • Used car is much cheaper to purchase than brand new car.

        If brand new is 100k and 3 year old used is 70k and 5 year old used is like 50k.

        It's easier to justify spending money (so like 2-5k+) in repairing 100k car (2-5% purchase price), than 5-10% of the car's purchase price value.

        Also need to consider the overall condition of the car. (So like wear and tear, ding and scratches, ripped/scuffed interior trim, etc.) If it's in good condition, I would be tentative at this stage in spending thousands of dollars in getting some fix that may or may not work. If it is used (and purchased for like less than 40-50k and a bit worse for wear. Why bother.

        — So when it comes down to it —

        Sell used; or scrapped the car at the wrecker (get the scrapped value, put the money into a new or used car (if OP really need a car).

        But doesn't hurt to ask for a very reputable independent/merc-specialist advice (probably better bet than asking OzBargain that hadn't seen the car yet). If they know for certain what the issue is and how to fix it for X amount then decide on that. If not, it might end up to be a sinkhole.

        • +1

          It's easier to justify spending money (so like 2-5k+) in repairing 100k car (2-5% purchase price), than 5-10% of the car's purchase price value.

          The purchase price (or new vs old) is irrelevant. The only thing to consider is current market value of working vs non working and replacement value of another car.

  • +1

    We had a MD w164 AMG. Started to have heaps of electrical issues at the 8-10year mark. Ac also died, engine and driveline was problem free.

    Its not uncommon for cars to develop issues with age. Unfortunately being euro cars the cost of repair is high.

    Flog it off and get a boring Toyota, you will get decades of problem free driving but your friends wont think you are cool anymore.

    • +2

      Do you really care your friends think you are cool or not ? lol

  • +1

    I owned several older MLs before and it was nothing but a misery. They are very unreliable SUVs and they were more at the dealer than my garage. Sell it to the junk yard for parts.

    • +4

      You didn't learn your lesson the first or second time? lol

      • Lol. It took me three times to learn my lesson. They were cheap and 7 seaters, so when they actually work it was great. After burning my hands with all three German brands, finally I bought Lexus LS460, couldn't me more happier. not as smooth as Mercedes, not as maneuverable as BMW and not as high tech as Audi, but highly reliable, a lot cheaper to maintain. Its good to see a clean dash board without warning signs!

      • +2

        Obviously, he was confused and still is :)

        • -1

          Care to explain little more which could be useful? Your comment is neither funny nor informative.

        • @Confused1:
          Sorry if I offended you but it was meant to be a joke.

        • @bghunter:

          No problem brother, may be I am over reacted.

        • -1

          @Confused1:
          Not sure where in my post it was a "Personal Attack", as any sane person would read it to the contrary.
          I was simply explaining bghunter's post, which was a lighthearted joke that cannot offend anyone rational.

  • +4

    Get rid of this lemon as soon as possible and then buy Japanese car :)

  • So happy with my W163 ML320 that I bought 2 years ago,

    it was a 2002 model same like yours, had like 217k kms when I bought it for $4k.

    2 years had gone by..replaced the crank position sensor myself for $70. Used a Bluetooth diagnostic kit to diagnose the problem as my car kept stalling.

    Problem disappeared.

    Had to change the alternator and install a new battery for $1k.

    Had leaky roofs as well, I reattached them the 2nd time with glue and never had a problem ever since.

    now it is close to 230k, driving it everyday without a hitch.

    2 years, only spent $5k ish on the car, really happy so far, relatively low cost.

    (Routine service done by myself)

    • +4

      That seems a lot of repairs and you've only done 13000 km in 2 years.

      • +1

        Well for a Benz that costs $4k + 1k repairs (running cost for 2 years) isn't that bad..if it goes on for another 2 years,

        it's relatively cheap with minimal depreciation and financial burden

        can be sold now easily at $2.5k-3k

  • +1

    Yep get it fixed as cheap as possible by an independent mechanic then sell it. Unfortunately with that age, other things will start to go in time. About 11 years is the longest I have kept a car as things start to wear out.

  • +2

    Well our ml280 2002 edition was laying scrap in our drive way and we got rid of it for $500. Best just get rid of it fast and not worth the trouble of trying to sell it.

  • +8

    2002 lemon Merc with only 150k on the clock? Wow!!! I just replaced a 2002 Toyota Corolla with almost 250k on the clock. I never had to spend a single cent on any repairs with this car. EVER!! The car was still going very strong the day I replaced it. Got a Mazda SP25 GT instead and the car is just awesome for a fraction of the price of any Merc out there with all these features. Highly recommend an SP25 if looking for a new car.

    • -4

      Yeah dude, its a Mazda. While these Benz's that are mentioned are no doubt pieces of shit, they are still driving a Benz and you are still driving a Mazda.

      • Look beyond the badge. Judged by any objective measure, a modern Mazda in the small to medium size car market is better than the equivalent Mercedes model, when compared like for like, dollar for dollar. Some people get hung up on the badge and want to pay $20k more for an equally specified A-Class versus Mazda3. More power to them and if that's what they want, good on them. The only areas where the Mercedes beats the Mazda is when looking at purely subjective measures. 'Spirit', 'feel', 'German engineering', badge.

        Trust me, the only people who care about the badge are those driving the Mercedes. Everyone else doesn't notice, and really doesn't care.

        • -2

          Sure. A Benz out classes a Mazda in every segment, apart from the MX5, because they don't have anything in the hairdresser segment. Money be damned.

          It's like buying a pair of Blundstones or a pair of RM Williams. You either get it, or you don't. Ignorance is bliss.

  • +2

    old + euro car, could you ask for a worse combination (from a financial view)

  • +3

    I sympathize with your MB problems. I had a 2001 A-Class. Wretched vehicle. Poor build and design quality, and the engine required a complete rebuild at just 67k km when the timing chain snapped.

    Mercedes went through a period of from about 1997 to 2005 where they rapidly expanded their product line while lowering the price. This meant rushing the designs, cutting corners, and producing some very unreliable and poor quality vehicles. While making one of my many warranty repair visits to the MB dealer, I witnessed an absolutely livid customer chewing the ear off a poor MB employee about the pieces of trim falling off an M-Class vehicle. Yep, pay over $100k and get something that's falling apart under gravity.

    My employer had an M-Class and an A-Class. A-Class required a gearbox rebuild ($2300 just for parts) while the M-Class had pieces of trim frequently falling off.

    I suggest selling the vehicle as soon as possible and getting something Japanese or Korean. You'll be surprised how much nicer a $40k SUV is compared to a premium vehicle from 2002.

    • -5

      You'd only be surprised if you were a complete moron, 2002 was 15 years ago, If the Koreans can't produce a car better than a 15 year old Benz, then they have got problems.

      • -1

        My comment is in regards to comparing a premium new vehicle from 2002, to a modern run-off-the-mill 2016/2017 vehicle now. NVH is generally better on vehicles now compared to back then, safety features are certainly better. What was once considered a premium safety pack option is standard today across almost all vehicles. Fuel economy for the same weight of car is generally much better today, and more power per engine capacity too.

        • -2

          No shit. My comment stands.

  • +1

    Pop it up on ebay - no reserve auction. Clearly state everything that you know is wrong with it, then let the market decide :)
    Sell without registration or roadworthy (remove the registration plates when the buyer picks it up).

  • +2

    Buy smart,buy Japanese or Korean :)

  • +1

    Trade in for a new Jap car :) You can go for Lexus if you want luxury car.

    • +1

      I'm waiting for them to come out with a model called "Luthor" ;-)

    • -6

      Lexus are luxury cars for people who know nothing about cars.

      • +1

        So Lexus are definitely luxury cars for you then :)

      • If you define luxury as "spending thousands dollar to maintain" then I guess you are right. It's no where near the Merc.

        • No but, 'good car' is usually a pre requisit.

  • +4

    I had two jap cars (Nissan, Subaru) and never had an issue. Thought I'd give an Audi a go… what a mistake. The motor was brilliant, I couldn't fault it - great on fuel, (reasonably) powerful for a 1.8T, and it never gave me grief.

    Everything else on the other hand, broken left right and center.

    Window regulators, melting plastic on the door handles, instrument cluster LCD with dead pixels. I don't know how many CV boots various mechanics replaced, they just seemed to pop off too easily. I narrowly escaped a $3k bill when the ABS module died. Luckily I got a genuine "on sale" module shipped from the US for $600.

    It had a few issues when I traded it in… airbag light, bonnet and front bar needed repainting. Gave it up for 1.5k in the end, and went back to a Subaru :-).

    In the 2 years, the Subaru has cost me nothing other than scheduled servicing.

    The Audi was a nice car, but I'll never go back unless someone else is paying for it.

    GET RID OF IT :-).

    • +1

      This comment explains my Audi experience too - I had a 1.8T engine as well. Fun to drive, but so many niggling headaches. I ended up thinking everything was over-engineered and not engineered for Australian conditions. Warning lights and electrical issues; plastic bits always coming off or breaking. Finally the A/C compressor died and I wasn't going to be able to sort it out cheaply so I got rid of it.

      • "not engineered for Australian conditions" I agree with 100%. It's a shame, they're nice cars (to look at and drive).

  • Reading all this and I look at my 2002 Holden rodeo I've had for 11 years now pushing 325 thousand KMS which I've literally never had a problem with besides basic servicing.

  • Every time I have the urge to get a German especially a Merc, I will take a look at this video and all my lust will disappear straight away:

    https://youtu.be/mAgY6A3RPcU.

    • Ive had my German 7 years, New cooling system. Thats about it. With the exception of every car things like tyres, bushes etc.

  • +2

    I think what people are failing to see is that a lot of these luxury cars are unreliable by design. Its baked into the cake.

    Think about it. If you're a prestige car maker, do you really want people driving around your cars until they're crumbling old jalopies? Hell no, you want to preserve the prestige of your marquee by making sure every single living exemplar of your brand is relatively new and in its prime. Just about every Euro sedan will give you six reliable years of service. After that you can start to expect electrical faults. With Range Rovers you can just about set your watch by them. Eight years - blam, electrics are fried.

    Always the same sort of faults - electrics. At least if it was a physical fault with the engine you could see it and replace it. Electric faults are by their nature elusive and you can throw money at them all day and not get anywhere. Take it to the wreckers and get another one.

    Funnily enough, my house is full of electronic doodads and appliances and yet not one of them decided to die at the eight year mark. But putting electronics in a car somehow produces this magical effect. Its amazing that electronics are extremely reliable in just about every context except cars.

    It also has the added bonus of discouraging aspirational climbers who might otherwise tarnish the exclusivity of the brand if they start to dream that they can afford to drive such a car. If youre a neurosurgeon you probably dont care if your car is going to die in six years time, you just get another one. But if you're not stupidly rich the combined lack of resale value, high cost of servicing and parts and unreliability is going to wear you down.

    Accordingly, it gets worse the higher you go. You could buy a house with the annual servicing fees for a Bentley and they're even less reliable than BMW and Mercedes, if you can limp it home from the showroom you should consider yourself lucky.

    • "Its amazing that electronics are extremely reliable in just about every context except cars."

      You'll have to consider that cars are left in the sun at 40C all they long cooking all the electronics at a temperature which it can easily exceed 80C and the opposite happens in winter. This continuous change in temperature has to be taken into consideration when designing car electronics.

Login or Join to leave a comment