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Castrol Edge 10w-30 - 5 Litre $24.79 (Was $61.99) @ Supercheap Auto Starts 14/12
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Starts 14/12 national.
Cheers, Will be making a few trips, this is cheaper than most magnatec deals
Awesome op; I missed out the previous repco deal :( Wont miss this one for sure :) Excellent post mate!!
Thats awesome. I prefer the 5lt pack over the 10lt one for easy measuring and pouring!.
but that 5W30 at repco is so cheap haha
Hand on this is 10w 30. 5w 30 is a superior oil. So the repco deal was still better.
In summer in Australia? the 10w-30 will shear slower in our heat, it's the better oil.
Technically speaking they should both be equivalent when hot as they have the same rating.
@tanksinatra: Incorrect.
The chlorinated paraffins added to reach that viscosity will result in a lower TBN and a higher Shear.You're correct for probably the first 500kms (maybe 1000kms) of use only.
@tanksinatra:
It's possible the manufacturer is wrong, it's fairly common.
A lot (most) manufacturers provide the same owners manual to multiple countries. (where it gets below freezing)
And on top of that, weight is not a sign of other crucial elements (ratings, Zinc, shear, TBN, and a LOT more).Best way to know if your oil is right, is to capture some after each drain, and send it away for a UOA (used oil analysis). You usually only have to do one or two for each vehicle you own, to find a 'good oil' it likes.
An interesting study case is "Mobil 1".
Some cars see almost 0 wear material (which is near unheard of), while some see a (repeatable) 100PPM iron, and 20ppm copper!!! (which is terrifying)
How? No one knows, there's just something in the formulation that certain bearing types\sizes\engine loads don't 'agree' with.
For some, it's magic! For others, water…For references, start here:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/
Read the 'Articles' section, then the Q&A's with each oil company.Once you know how to 'talk the talk' most big oil companies will put you through to their 'chemists' to have a chat about advanced formulation.
The forums are worth a few months of study at least.
I've been an 'oil nerd' for about 10 years now, and most recently spent a day with the Penrite rep discussing formulation changes. I'm still an HPR fan after that.
The Gulf Western people are pretty good at talking also if you want to nerd out on formulations.
Excellent. I'll try and buy 3 and put them through in separate purchases if they let me. Otherwise will have to visit 2 stores.
Great price. Does oil have a best before? I still have one from the last deal
Wow.. that's a great price.. thanks buddy. That will do nicely for the missus. Her car that is.
For my car the manual says 0w-30th and Castrol website says 5w-30. Should I buy this?
wouldnt recommend going out of manufacturer spec…
would be 'ok' to use in summerAlso depends on the age of the vehicle.
manual normally gives a range of grades you can use as long as it meets certain specs…. if it does, no reason why not
It is 2012 model, I do about 30,000 kms annually. There isn't a range unfortunately.
going to need a model and variant, my crystal ball is broken…..
in all 3 of these oils, 0W30, 5W30, 10W30, at operating temp they are the same thickness, the 10W is just a bit thicker when cold….
that being said, 10W oil is pretty much compatible with everything in most of Aus climates
It is 2012 model, I do about 30,000 kms annually. There isn't a range unfortunately.
Should you be buying oil for your car if you can't even find the specifications of the oil?
Actually can't find that in the manual. It says this however and I wonder what oil the dealership have been using so far and I doubt it would have been 0W-20.
"If SAE 0W-20 is not available,
SAE 5W-20 oil may be used.
However, it must be replaced with
SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change"i think you're fine, petrol engine will most probably be only needing SN grade back in 2012….. if you want to be sure send us a pic of it….. all cars have a graph of suitable oils
http://www.moranbahweather.com/toyota/hilux/repair2/img/a112…
like this… might be on a different page though
Xw - is the low temperature viscosity. Such temperature never happen in Australia
Yes, it'll be fine.
ASSUMING you warm your car up, like a good owner.The first number is resistance to flow cold, and the second is when hot.
So basically, once your car is up to temperature, it's perfectly within spec.
When it's cold, oil flow will be low, so driving it very 'gently' until warm, or letting it idle for 1 (literal) minute before driving, at least, will make that A-OKI would stick to what your manual specifies. If it specifies 0w-30 then using a 10w-30 will cause increased wear and decreased oil pressure when cold.
Incorrect sorry.
a 10W when cold vs a 0W when cold, will result in INCREASED oil pressure when cold.
It will give decreased FLOW however.This isn't harmful, as long as you drive it calmly to prevent shearing\overheating the oil film, considering the flow is less.
No oil in the history of oils has ever given LESS pressure by being of a higher viscosity.Australian temperatures (with the possible exception of Tasmania and mountain towns) will never warrant less than a 10W.
5W makes some people feel better about the cold starts, and 0W is just throwing money down the drain.Perfect example of weight not meaning what people think:
BMW M3 - specifies "German Castrol 10W-60".
However, if you look at the viscoscity rating (on the MSDS) of German castrol, its SIGNIFICANTLY thicker than Australian 'Castrol'.
The closest oil we can get that matches viscoscity, is HPR15 (a 15W-60 penrite) and even then, the 15W cold in penrite is thinner than the 10W cold in German Castrol.
Spent a few weeks with my BMW obsessed mate figuring that out. Didnt make any sense until we realised Germany has significantly different formulations.If you're trying to nerd out on oils you HAVE TO plot a temperature graph and compare viscosity as tested on the MSDS, not the rating on the bottle.
This is a good video to start on, he explains viscosity based on SAE ratings.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYkg0oDUXs8If the oil is thick there will be reduced flow and the oil will take longer to travel through the oil galleries and reach the cylinder head on start up. Hence lower initial oil pressure (in the head).
It's time to stock up boys. ;)
I got so much oil in my garage from previous deals… Should stop buying.
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or not…i'm at 75L of 5W30/40 and 50L of 10W40 =)
just one more
I thought i was bad. I have 6 containers of 5L 5w-30 + 3 10w-40.
You sir won!You win.
I've got 50L of 5W40 and 24L of 5W30. Cost me $5/L and $6/L respectively.
How often do you change oils?
I've got 2.5 cars. The 0.5 car does 3000km p.a.
My rationale for 50L of 5W40 which only one car uses, is that car burns a 1L of oil every 3,000km. So really I need 10L of oil every 15,000km. Otherwise I would use 5W30 for all my cars.
What is yours? other than it was too cheap! lol
ooh, what is it and how did you get 5W40 for $5/L? I'm happy to pay anything up to $7/L for full synthetic group 3 for 5W30/40, officially only getting Aus made oils from now on or shell ultra also moving to 5W40
The 06 Accord Euro 240,000km does around 15-20,000km a year so I do it every 10,000km…. doesn't need topping up now that my crankshaft seal is new again 5W30/5W40
The 13 Accord 35,000km is just out of warranty and will be getting changes done every 6 monthly for another few years, only does around 8-15,000km a year depending on road trips to melboune/ sydney (normally do melbourne once or twice a year) 5W30/ 5W40
The dealer has been putting 0W20 in it but not going to keep it that thin just for the extra 0.5L/100km (Max) petrol savingTHe 98 Pajero 180,000km is getting the 10W40 does 10-15,000km a year and gets done every 10,000km, it burns a bit and will be getting a gasket replacement over Christmas
Both Hondas take just under a bottle for a change whereas the pajero uses around 7L
trans oils every year for the hondas and coolant every few years
https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/259913
0W20 to 5W40 is a big change.
Difficult to change the Transmission oil in the Honda's? I'm assuming automatic.
@JB1:
ahhh yes, that valvoline deal… wont happen again haha
manual says anything from 0W20/30/40 or 5W20/30/40 is fine as long as it meets SN…..
20 grade operating temp oil doesn't feel right for me, not sure what it is
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?154787
pretty cake actually…. in the '13 you actually dont even need to undo any of the underbody clips…. drains better with the rear lifted higher than the front and you have to check levels at operating temp with the engine still running
I find that 5W40 is generally cheaper than 5W30.
I bought my brother 0W20 for his Honda Odyssey (which I believe is closely related to the Euro). It's not a stressed motor, so the xW20 weight should be fine.
I do wonder if the engineers would prefer to specify a xW30 oil, but management specifies a xW20 oil purely for fuel economy.
What is the recommended auto transmission oil change interval? I may change it for my brother. I'm assuming the Odyssey is going to be the same as the Euro.
@JB1:
Yeah, they make it clear that the 20 oil is for economy…. 5W40 is still in spec and i drive them hard so not a huge deal, i'll just go down the backlog of oil haha…. 0W and 5W oil are actually similar weight at our 40 degree ambient so no a huge deal, not like we get -30 degrees here
I've found the opposite, 5W30 Group 3 seems to be generally on special every 3 months or so, more often if you include semi synthetic group 2 whereas 5W40 group 3 seems a bit rarer…. we start extending intervals after 5 years so we only use fully synthetic in the hondas… the 4WD gets a bit more neglect while it's getting topped up every month
the interval for honda normal auto transmissions are 6 years/ 120,000km for the factory fill and 3 years/ 60,000km thereafter but if you have a look at that thread, problems can begin much sooner then the 6 years in our temps….
if you do it 3 yearly, you need to do the 3 drain and 3 fill procedure which a bit of driving in between but my inner ozbargainer can't stand the thought of draining out most of my new oil to flush the old oil out so I just do it yearly with a single drop and fill
the euro shifts like butter even at that many kms
store stocks only???
My relatively new car specifies 5W-30 :( This 10W is practically not specified on any car
Would be fine in the north of the country. Actually the weight should be fine for anywhere north of Sydney in summer. Provided other specs are met…
Running its at 30, so thats the same. Cold start its at 10 instead of 5 but in summer its not going to make a difference unless you live in a cold climates. Dont rev it for a few seconds, shouldnt be anyway.
5w is superior to 10w. Simple as that, most of your wear occurs when cold. The further north you live and whether you use a garage and keep the car out from the cold will be a factor. Though realistically engine wear usually isn't the end of a car. Blown head gasket, crash, some god awful expensive turbo or diesel pump or steering pump, electrical gremlins, transmission failure. Hailstorm, broken timing belts with valve damage are far more likely ends to the modern auto mobile now. When your car is 15 years old any of those things will cost more than its worth to fix. So really if you didn't get the repco deal with 5w 30. Then buy it. Most service shops just put that 15w40 sn grade from a 200lt drum in anyway.
The thing is the motor wouldn't notice a difference between 0w and 5w unless the temperature is well below zero.
The difference in viscosity is seen at all temperatures. But yeah the cooler temp would mean it has more of a wear effect I guess. Whether it makes a practical difference in life…
Its a concern for example around winter, in Tassie, or the highlands of Vic and NSW etc. If my car spec'ed a 10w30 and I lived and drove in those places, Id run 5w30. Its not going to detonate, bur if people are concerned re oil weights, its a genuine situation mechanics used to use different oil.
5w is not superior in something that specs 15W or 20W.
@sillyhead: Biggest thing to remember is that the wider the range, the more 'magic additives' are adjusting the thickness.
Additives always wear out sooner than oil (base oil almost never wears out, within reason, actually, hence the oil recycling).
As such, an oil with a wider range will shear thinner, sooner.
This is why things like lawnmowers (which run at high RPM, high temp, for extended periods) specify a single weight oil.
A SAE30 oil will remain an SAE30 oil for a LONG time.
Sure you can run a 0W30, 5W30, 10W30, but that constant excessive heat will shear that oil to a 15~20W (hot) in no time.To cut a long story short, if your car requires a 40W oil when hot, a 15W-40 will be the better oil than a 0W-40, since it will shear SIGNIFICANTLY less over the service interval.
Only catch is that cold FLOW will be quite a bit lower, meaning you have to baby it till it warms up, for risk of overheating the oil film.
Here's an example:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=sho…10W60 draining at a 7.5W30 thickness after a basic interval.
Just a heads up, Repco catalogue has 5w30 Castrol Edge for $29.99. Sale 15/12 to Christmas Eve.
You are the best, that is what I need.
man i thought oil weight bitch fights were only on commodore forums
unless you know exactly what kind of clearances your bearings have use what the goddamn manual recommends.
neggers know more than the engineers that designed the engines ha ha ha ha
Yup..
Why risk using an oil not specified by the manufacturers?
It's scary how many people do what some random on a forum says to run something different other than what the engineers designed it for.. it only takes something 5-10 more/less viscosity for an engine to eat bearings much quicker. Modern engines have much tighter tolerances (i.e last 10 years), not only that hydraulic lifters etc etc all need the right oil.
There are reasons for not using the specified oil, i.e. worn motor, burning excessive oil, etc. But if you're not experiencing any problems, why not continue using the recommended oil?
What scares me is the local mechanic that services everything from Toyota's, Hyundai's to European is they will just use the same oil for all cars, 5W40 or 10W40. They are stumped if you ask them what is the specified oil for your particular car.
I always bring my own oil into the workshop so I know exactly what is going in. Not to mention, you can save heaps, i.e. $30L charged for Synthetic oil by the dealer. Been there, done that, learned my lesson.
These days, my car is well out of warranty so I just service it myself. One of the advantages of having an older car.
Anybody know how Castrol Edge compares to Penrite HPR5?
I've used HPR5 and it was a good oil. So is Castrol Edge.
However HPR5 is 5W40 and this Castrol Edge is 10W30 which may or may not be suitable for your car.
HPR5 is thinner when cold and thicker when hot, so you can't really compare them.
Link says Price $61.99 each
Any more info, what store ? When ? Catalogue?