Advice on How to Get The Best Price on a Toyota Prado GXL

pandabear on 31/05/2016 - 10:14

Hi all!

We are in the market for a new car (or low kms demo) - A Toyota Prado GXL.

The current drive away price is $63,990. Obviously that is not what we want to pay.

I am trying to play all the dealerships against each other, but they are all being very sly and won't tell me what their best price is but want to know how much I want to pay. How low do you think I can get them to go realistically?

We also want them to throw in a tow bar fully installed.

Do you think we will be able to achieve $60k with a tow bar?

Thanks for your opinions!

Automotive Toyota

Comments

  • holdenmg on 31/05/2016 - 10:25

    In Melbourne you can use a Car Broker like and just let them do all the work.

    I wouldn't just settle for $60K with a Tow-Bar, as soon as you disclose to a Dealer your floor price, they will exploit that.

    • spackbace on 31/05/2016 - 10:38
      +1

      I wouldn't just settle for $60K with a Tow-Bar

      Sigh because dealers have tens of thousands in their profit margin right? Lol that offer is ~$5k off sale price, not RRP. On a new car, it's likely as good as the OP can get!

      • holdenmg on 31/05/2016 - 10:46
        -1

        No, I wasn't suggesting there were tens of thousands in their profit margin. Please don't verbal me.
        Sigh… sigh… (sigh).

        • spackbace on 31/05/2016 - 10:53
          -1

          But there's more than $5k on an advertised $64k car? So what, 10% overheads on everything at sale price then?

        • holdenmg on 31/05/2016 - 10:59

          @Spackbace:
          I'm not going to continue to engage in a dialogue with you about this.

          You seem to be looking for someone to have an argument with.

          (Sigh).

        • spackbace on 31/05/2016 - 11:16

          @holdenmg:

          I'm not, I'm picking apart your comment, you said that OP shouldn't just stop at $5k, so where's the line? Back up your argument if you want to share that sort of advice with someone.

          I wouldn't just settle for $60K with a Tow-Bar

        • holdenmg on 31/05/2016 - 11:39
          +2

          @Spackbace:
          You don't seem to have interpreted my comment the way I intended. You seem to be suggesting that negotiating beyond $60K (and a Tow Bar) will necessarily involve substantial discounting.

          Obviously the OP has a vehicle in mind.
          This may (or may not include a Factory Fitted Tow Bar).

          I'd express interest in the Vehicle concerned and see what options or extras were offered by dealers to sweeten the deal. This could include extras e.g. Tow Bar or other options, servicing, Fuel Cards etc. Factory Cashbacks can even be on offer in June…

          All I'm saying is keep your options open and don't limit what may be offered.

  • Looking4Bargians on 31/05/2016 - 10:25
    +2

    Shop around and don't muck around. Ask them, i will buy today if you give me that price and also ready to walk away. Don't hang around

    • MrBear on 01/06/2016 - 09:19
      +1

      You have to COMMIT to be taken seriously by a dealer salesman. If you don't, they know you are just shopping around. Some may play that game, but many won't.

  • spackbace on 31/05/2016 - 10:37
    +3

    No one will just give 'best price'. This sort of haggling is either an old mentality, or from a different culture. If you're haggling, like anyone haggles with anyone else, you need to set the offer price, and go from there. If you want the car for $60k including tow bar, go down there and offer that price, be prepared to sign on the line for it though, don't just stand there and ask the salesman if they'd do it for that. So once again, be prepared to buy it for that offer! Don't call/email dealers around town, you're wasting your own time and showing you're actually not that serious. Walk in the door to your local, be decided on everything you want (colour, accessories etc), and throw down an offer and sign it. Worst they can do is say no.

    These cars are on a campaign price of $63,990 drive away, so I doubt you'd get someone accept an offer ~$5k off sale price (including tow bar) on a brand new car. But hey, it's worth a shot.

    Oh, and car brokers are a waste of time, and they still have a $500-$1000 fee that has to be incorporated into a dealers best possible price. Don't bother with them.

    Go to the dealer and put the offer on paper!

    • holdenmg on 31/05/2016 - 10:48

      Well, until recently a leading Car Broker offered through RACV to waive their fee for members. (Sigh).

      • spackbace on 31/05/2016 - 10:54

        How nice of him. You really think he didn't charge the dealer a fee for his 'service'? Lol get your head out of the sand! He might not be charging the customer, but in charging the dealer, he's affecting any possible 'best price' that can be negotiated! That's only gonna come out of the customer's pocket!

        • holdenmg on 31/05/2016 - 11:04

          Sure, but there can be discounts that become available by combining vehicle purchases through a single dealer that put a single buyer ahead and in a better position than they would have been alone.

        • spackbace on 31/05/2016 - 11:13
          +1

          @holdenmg:

          There isn't. Dealers prefer to sell direct to the customer, as it gives them the chance to sell their finance etc and make a bit more money from the customer. They also prefer local buyers as they know they will get the servicing down the track. A broker is just a means to an end for a dealer, just a way of getting rid of a car, normally reluctantly as they make nothing out of it, don't earn the customer's trust & loyalty etc.

          Brokers only do what's in their own best interests. I've seen them sell a customer the wrong model, wasn't until the customer drove it out of our yard, got down the road, went "where's the cruise control?". Brought it back and his exact words were "I guess that's what I get for using a broker rather than direct from you". Brokers aren't salespeople, so you need to make damn sure that you know exactly what you're buying before you even consider using one.

          Learning to negotiate is 1 of the best 'life hacks' you can learn, and it's not just for the car industry. You don't consult someone to go haggle on your behalf to buy a tv, so why do it with a car? Learn to properly negotiate and you can use it everywhere, from cars to electronics to jewellery. If you don't want to learn, and just let other people do your business, then use a broker, but you're learning nothing from the whole experience.

        • holdenmg on 31/05/2016 - 11:20

          @Spackbace:
          The OP never said they want finance, so why mention it?

          If a customers bought the wrong model and missed out on something they specified as fundamentally obvious as a cruise control well they probably didn't instruct the broker clearly or inspect the vehicle prior to acceptance.

          Maybe the dealer actually wanted to push a non-cruise control vehicle out and thought they could… (the dealer could have tried that without a broker being involved).

          I'd agree you need to know exactly what you are buying whichever way you go.

          Obviously you don't consult someone to go haggle on your behalf to buy a tv, because a TV can be had for a trivial sum and prices can be readily found by individuals.

          All I'm saying is that if your negotiating position by using a car broker results in a better price is to go with it.

        • dasher86 on 01/06/2016 - 09:30
          +1

          i agree with the above however understanding what the best price a broker can get you is a good idea.
          I take this price and i run with it to dealer and see what they can do directly.
          Most brokers are no obligation.

  • SnoozeAndLose on 31/05/2016 - 11:16

    I saw Toyota in Lidcombe,NSW is doing a sale last few days, you can give them a call or go there and see if you can get that price.

    Some car dealer can make a no profit to sell a car as they may get the volume bonus to recover that cost.

  • pandabear on 31/05/2016 - 11:33

    Thanks every one for your input! So it sounds like that if I manage to get it for $60k with a tow bar that would be a really good price? We don’t need finance and have cash to pay for the car. The best offer that I have at the moment is $61k with a tow bar, floor mats and headlamp covers. The other thing is I am wondering if it is a good time to buy now or should I wait until close to the end of next month which is near the end of financial year targets….

    • MrBear on 01/06/2016 - 09:22

      The price is only "good" if you are happy with it.

      Go in and say this is what I want and will buy today if you get this price with these features.

  • SnoozeAndLose on 31/05/2016 - 11:38

    $61k with a tow bar, floor mats and headlamp covers

    Remove floor mats and headlamp cover to make it cheap then you are buy after market one which they are cheaper.

    The closer to the end of financial year the better.

    • spackbace on 31/05/2016 - 11:46
      +1

      I hate to say it, but 99% of the time genuine floor mats are so much better. Better fit (a lot of new cars now come with toggles in the floor to hold the mats in place, aftermarket mats don't have the holes), and really don't exactly eat much into a dealers margin with respect to the asking price of this car in particular. Get them thrown in, it's fine.

      Oh and headlamp covers shouldn't be necessary, most modern headlights are actually stronger than the plastic cover, making the covers redundant.

      • SnoozeAndLose on 31/05/2016 - 11:48

        I hate the carpet style floor mat(very easy to get dirty on mud and hard to clean), I prefer the rubber one specially for Prado.The genuine one is too expansive.

      • dasher86 on 31/05/2016 - 13:13
        +1

        the car mats can sometime be had as genuine oem from ebay.
        when negotiating for my current vehicle i was quoted $x price for my floor mats so i showed them the price on this seller on ebay.
        http://stores.ebay.com.au/melbournecitytoyotaparts/
        I got my mats thrown in for free in the end.

  • jabbairc on 01/06/2016 - 11:26

    I don't know specifics of your car/deal but for that price range I always go for 20% off RRP as a 'general' rule of thumb (before I get negative comments!)

    Remember someone is always keen to do a deal and wants your money. Nail the price your willing to pay and find the dealer willing to do the deal.

    Think of it this way, it's a near zero cost sale to them if you call and do a deal and go and close on the spot. You didn't contribute much to their cost of sale so thinner margins are possible don't hesitate to remind them of this.

    Edit: last days of month and end of quarter always a great time when sales needs to hit quotas. It's not just profit but revenue and volume for them too.

    • pandabear on 01/06/2016 - 17:27

      Really 20% RRP??? As in 20% off $63,990?

      • jabbairc on 01/06/2016 - 18:55

        Yes absolutely, now other dynamics definitely dictate thus I said 'generally' for example a model that is a hot ticket item and demand outstrips supply (no reason for a dealer to give you a better deal right if he can't get his hands on more stock).

        But in general yes, someone always wants your money! Someone is always keen to do the deal, 20% great deal, 10-15% good deal off RRP in that price range. Remember that fleet etc get decent discounts already and the average Joe like us just needs to negotiate similar discounts.

        Another factor is margins are higher on the top of the range models, not sure if this applies to this car, if not then less margins for you to reduce the price.

        I know of people who'd call interstate dealers and do the deal and so on with local delivery.

        Always know exactly what you want, every extra etc. before you go in and as people suggested be ready to do the deal!

        • pandabear on 01/06/2016 - 22:45

          Ok so I looked this up and the regular drive away price is $68,240 (current sale price $63,990). So are you saying that I should be aiming to pay around $55,000 without any extras? That does not seem to be realistic? What negotiation strategies would you take to try and achieve this?

          Edit: I see what you mean about margins are higher with the top models. This is a mid range model so maybe 15% off $68,240 would be more realistic?

  • robertbruce on 01/06/2016 - 13:39

    65953 down to 63999 down to 61000 with a bar and plastic, OMG, i am getting dizzy, when will it stop!

    • pandabear on 01/06/2016 - 17:24

      It was never $65,953? RRP at the moment $63,990.

      • robertbruce on 02/06/2016 - 11:45

        rrp Price from http://www3.toyota.com.au/prado/prices

        there is normally an 8% negotiability within the price before your open season and put in the too-hard basket

        better buy before the dollar drops anymore, if you can that is, i rekon your on a well deserved low-ball

  • Well Wasted on 01/06/2016 - 14:10

    isn't 'prado' the spanish word for (profanity)…?

    • nafe on 01/06/2016 - 14:19
      +1

      You're thinking of Pajero I believe

  • pandabear on 01/06/2016 - 17:25

    The best deal I have now is $60,500 with tow bar, floor mats and head lamp protectors

    • dasher86 on 01/06/2016 - 20:37

      Well you managed to get your price if you take into account the other extras.
      Sign your name on the line…

  • jabbairc on 01/06/2016 - 19:08

    If this a special price and I'm guessing this is the high runner model (volume sale model) what's the real RRP non sales price guys? Out of curiosity…

    • spackbace on 01/06/2016 - 19:36

      I think Redbook listed it as $62,990, or $63,990, plus on-road costs (stamp duty, dealer delivery, registration, possibly plus LCT)

  • robertbruce on 02/06/2016 - 11:48

    65953 RRP GXL auto, white
    Price from http://www3.toyota.com.au/prado/prices

  • jabbairc on 02/06/2016 - 12:03

    Reading through and understanding now that the GXL is indeed the volume product, seems like 10% is where you're landing in discount.

    Probably not bad but I'd want to find out as you're trying to do what others are paying for the same.

  • SnoozeAndLose on 29/07/2016 - 14:46

    Have you bought car yet? if yes what is the final price on the paper?

  • pandabear on 29/07/2016 - 16:28

    We actually ended up buying a 2013 BMW X5 Diesel 41,000km. Asking price was $66,800, tow bar $2,800. Bargained down to $66,000 flat with tow bar. Car also comes with 3 years free servicing. Offered $65,000 but the sales guy wouldn't go and speak to the manager until $66k

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