Dodgy Service Mechanics - How not to get scammed

[Deactivated] on 12/04/2016 - 16:37

So around 10 months ago my parner got a call from Mazda in Artarmon who were servicing her car.
"We need to replace your windscreen wipers @ $99"
"Go ahead" she said.

Fortunately I was next to her and heard the conversation, and she must have known by the look of terror on my face that she had said the wrong thing.
Short story - she replaced the wipers with genuine Mazda wipers a short time later when she visited her mechanic brother in law in another part of the state. Total cost was less than a third of what Mazda quoted her.

Today she is having her car serviced again at Mazda in Artarmon - guess what they want to replace @ $99!!

The lesson is:
When getting your car serviced always check the lights yourself and the wiper blades befor you send it in.
I also check the tread on my tyres of my motorbike, because that is another easy money spinner for the dodgy operators.
When getting a pink slip - always check your number plate light before you take it in.

Automotive

Comments

  • kusama on 15/04/2016 - 09:27

    I think it's hard to trust a lot of mechanics. My dealership hasn't ripped me off yet except trying to upsell some things, it's hit and miss. And the mechanic near work has been a bit dodgy.
    My girlfriend also got charged labor and they also added to the bill $80 to reset the ecu :|

  • itstuan on 15/04/2016 - 09:48

    Nothing new, they need to make money to pay for their huge showroom, receptionist, free coffee machine etc….
    When they suggest you need to replace something, its a good indicator that you will need to replace it soon at the next service. Say no and get a quote at some friendly local mechanic.

  • altomic on 15/04/2016 - 11:19
    +3

    i have a mechanic I've been going to for the last 6 years whom I trust.

    once I had a flat battery (it was 6 years old) on my way to drop the kids off at school so I rang them and they came down immediately (about 4kms up the road) and swapped over batteries. they said for me to fix them up later. went to the work shop later and they said they'd do a quick electronics check to make sure the old battery wasn't shorted by something else/a fault, or what ever. they did that and gave me the bill for about $115 for battery, call out replacement, elec check. being and ozbargainer i googled the battery model and they were priced between $105 - $150 .

    they keep the crapped out parts to show what they replaced. I had a flex-exhaust connection pipe thing which had rusted out (you could hear the exhaust being louder than normal but I put up with it). took the car in for a regular service. they swapped the flex-exhaust connectionn pipe thing out and only charged for the part ($15). I only payed the normal regular service price.

    at my last service I casually mentioned that I'd had a factory recall (and subsequent repair) of my 2013 outlanders transmission. they said they'd have a look at that. anyway they called me up later and said come over as there was a problem. turned out the Mitsubishi qualified mechanics hadn't repaired the transmission very well and it was leaking transmission fluid - easily visible up on the hoist with the stone guard removed. my mechanic strongly suggested taking it back and getting mitsubishi to fix it (obviously as it was mitsubishis fault) and to bring it back when finished and they'd complete the service. again, no extra charge. no hassle. no shonkiness.

    Toys Exhaust & Automotive in Redcliffe (North Bris). honest and decent family run business.

    • duchy on 15/04/2016 - 13:12
      +1

      You've just earned them a new customer. I was looking for a reliable mechanic in Brissy.

  • dealsucker on 15/04/2016 - 12:14

    Guys, I have to take my Mazda for its first service pretty soon. Do I have to go an authorized service dealer to retain warranty or can I also go to an independent service provider and still retain my warranty? The capped service at the dealer is pretty expensive at $300 and all they do is "inspect", clean air filter and change engine oil. Any advice guys? Thanks!!!

    • pufffdragon on 15/04/2016 - 13:47
      +2

      Wow, I thought first service was usually free for a new car.

      No you do not have to go to a mazda authorised service dealer. When you buy the car they make you believe that you have to. Its another one if their traps to get more money out if you.

      Just make sure you take it to a mechanic who does log book servicing. You wont lose your warranty.

    • Randxyz123 on 15/04/2016 - 14:17

      Do I have to go an authorised service dealer to retain warranty or can I also go to an independent service provider and still retain my warranty?

      If it is a new car I personally would go to the dealer for capped price servicing.

      Say you decided to upgrade your car in 5 years time. You list your car on carsales. For me If you hadn't had it serviced at the dealer at least for the first 3 - 5 years I'd be asking myself 'what else have they cut corners or cheaper out on with the servicing/ maintenance.

      • [Deactivated] on 15/04/2016 - 16:15

        I find that dealership servicing is not the best. It depends on who the independant mechanic is. My mechanic costs a tad more but everything done to the car is overspec. Their tools are higher precision tools as well (Only one ratchet gun in sight. All precision torque ratchets and torque wrench)

        • airzone on 16/04/2016 - 19:29

          I service my own runabout, and I'm convinced that the only torque wrenches that have touched the car are my ones.

      • wtfnodeal on 18/04/2016 - 08:22

        I would not buy a 2nd car if log book only stamped serviced by dealer service centre. Because i know 10/10 of them use newbies to trial and errors on your cars and in fact nothing gets replaced and serviced. They just charge you hundreds of dollars by asking you to let their newbies run experiments on your cars LOL. Your cars usually turnout worse than before they go in for the so called services.

  • Randxyz123 on 15/04/2016 - 14:10

    she replaced the wipers with genuine Mazda wipers a short time later when she visited her mechanic brother in law in another part of the state. Total cost was less than a third of what Mazda quoted her.

    Not really surprising to be honest but remember that's fitting the blades and the parts themselves. If you look at the cost break down it probably isn't that bad.

    Her brother in law isn't going to charge her the full price he'd charge someone off the street.

    • IMFrugl on 15/04/2016 - 14:54

      knick007 Fixing a wiper blade is easier than threading a needle in a sewing machine. It may sound difficult but is in actuality a simple process of sliding out the old wiper and sliding in the new one. The wiper itself is not a big deal as it is a piece of rubber or silicone in a flexible metal frame which wipes the surface of the windscreen, just as someone can buy any brand needle to fit a sewing machine as long as it is the correct size or fit.

      The Bosch wiper from your local store will be as good as if not better than your Mazda wipers. Most car manufacturers do not manufacture every part of the car but sources them from local suppliers. Bosch is a major supplier of automobile parts indluding many high tech sensors hidden in the depths of your car. https://au.bosch-automotive.com/en/

      A good example is Takata - they manufacture airbags. You may be surprised to know that BMW and Audi airbags were made by the guys who also manufacture Mitsubishi and Mazda airbags. When they had a recall, it affected multiple brands:
      http://blog.caranddriver.com/massive-takata-airbag-recall-ev…

      So yes, $99 is a rip off for an item costing around $30 and requiring almost no effort to install. Imagine if you needed someone to change a sewing machine needle for $69 workmanship + $1 parts each time it snapped…

      • Randxyz123 on 15/04/2016 - 15:00

        knick007 Fixing a wiper blade is easier than threading a needle in a sewing machine. It may sound difficult but is in actuality a simple process of sliding out the old wiper and sliding in the new one.

        I know I've done it.

        So yes, $99 is a rip off for an item costing around $30 and requiring almost no effort to install.

        Yes they are $30 from super cheap. Say Mazda charge $35 or more each 2 of those are at least $70 and an extra the extra is installation. Expensive? Yes but not dodgy or that unreasonable IMO.

  • SaberX on 15/04/2016 - 15:16

    on an alternative note I have been going to RAC since i got my own car and am confused where to go for an independent, affordable regular servicing. Previously every 6 months/10,000 kms was handled by RAC since i got my car in dec 2013, and for mid $200's even after voucher discounts, I found that it seemed decent. It wasn't until i compared one report which said i had below 50% brakes left, with a later servicing report which put me up above 50% that i realised they have no clue what they're doing. That and the supercheap auto (or repco i think it was) lady was dismayed i even used RAC when i was looking to replace my windscreen wipers myself (at first I was going to take it into RAC to do - thank god for that, got some ok trico ones and did it myself, and won brownie points for self development at least!)

    Anyhow, long story short - anyone from Perth who can recommend a decent mechanic. I'd prefer one with either a decent sized store or franchise to back them, however main thing is someone who does all the regular half yearly servicing - any oil changes, testing of all the brakes and other items, checking for physical issues and what needs replacing, and who has a good grasp of when major items need to be replaced. I have a honda so not sure if one should stick to a honda specialist or if any mechnic can ply any car manufacturer and there is no harm in not going to a honda specialist?

    The hardest part is i bought my car second hand at 49,000 km despite being 4 years old, so comparing it to the printouts i got from honda on what to do in the servicing , the 70,000 km servicing for example would be say 48 months old, whereas the car's odomoter is much further behind its age. WOuld you just go off the kms, and are you usually meant to provide the honda recommended servicing item sheets to mechanics - or will they know what to do and when?

    Sorry , drive a car but don't know much about the practical side unfortunately haha.

    • SaberX on 15/04/2016 - 15:18

      just hard to know how good a mechanic is if you don't know anything about cars and you'll never see their work, just an end report. So would be looking for anyone who has an unbiased view of a decent South of River - Perth mechanic or business i can take my honda civic too. Better still if they operate on a weekend.

      Have been putting off the 70,000 km service due last december and nearly clockd up 73,200 kms so getting abit anxious that i've left the decision so long. Don't want to goto RAC just to get a servic ein while i decide on another mechcanic. Frankly have no idea how to choose one anyway without blind faith.

      • IMFrugl on 15/04/2016 - 21:18

        Hi SaberX. I'm not in Perth, so I can't recommend a mechanic. To answer your last question, in my opinion, the car recommended service is basically preventative maintenance which covers the manufacturer from car failure. In most cases it will be overkill, but safe. Your best gauge for servicing is the recommended period at the rear of your service manual . It tells you what needs to be replaced when. If you can track this chart, you can tell the mechanic what to change and he he will do so at a fixed parts and labour cost. If you just take it in for a 'service', he can change anything he likes and tell you it's part of the service as it is worn out or old. Or worse, he might forget the important stuff like transmission oils and fluids, brake fluids etc which are messier jobs and have longer intervals, resulting in a premature failure of that part of the car.

        So you have 2 options - use the manufacturer's strict schedule and pay the price, or use a workshop but you monitor the schedule and make sure you tick off the important fluid changes as you go along, not missing anything. A good mechanic will also do a quick check of fluid levels, tyres, brakes, lights if you ask.

        I prefer the latter. I also recently sent my new 2WD vehicle for a scheduled service with the fixed rate. For about $700, the service included a tappet adjustment which I felt was totally unnecessary. For some reason they felt they had to adjust the factory adjusted tappets on my 10000km vehicle. This adjustment is usually recommended for older vehicles or if the engine is making a ticking noise when cold. When I got the vehicle back, it ran poorly, had loss of power and had a higher fuel consumption. I had to send it back to get it checked. They found no fault, but it seemed to mysteriously fix itself. I would have preferred to just do an oil change for the service. Not to run down all dealer service centres, but as you will see on many forums, they do charge premium prices.

        • SaberX on 18/04/2016 - 16:27

          Thanks IMFrugl. That said - isn't the recommended service per each 10,000 km interval going to be a replica of what is placed in your rear of your service manual?

          Unfortunately i bought second hand and had no accompanying log book, which makes it even harder. The glovebox was filled with some receipts on what work had been done in the past only. I do have for the last 20,000 km or so my RAC receipts as to what they 'supposedly' did, although I could never check if it was done.

          Is it not possible for the mechanic to be able to tell what needs to be changed if you have no idea or haven't been able to track where your car fits in along the maintenance curve? I know it would take some inspection time, but a good mechanic would be able to pick up off a blank canvas right? Of course I think what you are saying is to avoid being taken for 'a ride' to know what needs to be replaced, and to instruct the mechanic, rather than letting them guide you?

          With your two options though, even if i use a workshop mechanic and monitor the schedule myself, woudln't I just be tracking when to do important fluid changes according to the service manual/log book anyway, which is what the manufacturer's strict schedule follows as well?

          Unfortunate about your 2WD vehicle, was that done at the dealer/manufacturer based service centres as part of your warranty?

        • IMFrugl on 19/04/2016 - 14:30

          @SaberX:
          You can get a standard manual like this:
          http://www.amazon.com/Honda-2007-Haynes-Repair-Manual/dp/162…
          from auto stores.

          For a newly purchased car, treat it as unknown, and do a full service including:
          all oil/fluid change - brakes, engine, transmisssion
          change timing belt on an older car (5ys old or over 80000km)
          Check all belts, cv joint boots
          check battery
          check A/C
          check tires and brake pads, rotors, tire alignment

          From there on, treat it as a new car and follow the standard schedule minus the 1000 kn service.

          Yes, my 2WD service was a capped service at the dealer. A waste of $700. It would have cost me $100-$200 if I just did a regular service at my own mechanic. The dealer makes you feel like your car will self destruct if not serviced by them on the very day the service is due, and they will do some magical things to the car which justifies them charging $700.

    • Emli on 17/04/2016 - 01:13
      +1

      Hi SaberX,
      I am in Perth.
      As a young female driver in my 20s I took my car to automasters. When I went to pick it up, the mechanic came in and whispered to the receptionist. I heard her say that he could tell the customer (me) myself but he declined. Warning bells rang. Needless to say, the report recommended a list of things that needed doing which I could not afford. The car also ran better before it went in for the service. In a panic I asked a few people who they used and they recommended a small mechanic workshop. When i took the car to the mechanic, he said that most of the things in the report did not need doing immediately and explained which needed doing at what time (some not for many kms and months/ years). He also told me which jobs on the report that had been ticked off as being done that had not been done. Of course it was not done because I was a female and how was I going to check.

      We have now been with our mechanic for 25 years. He is honest but he will say he is not bargain priced. However, you save a lot of money with honest work. I would avoid the bigger franchises after my experiences. An honest smaller mechanic does the log book services and fills the book in.

      By the way that car was mine for 16 years and I kept telling my mechanic to tell me six months before the car was going to die to warn me. He kept saying to me to keep it. We only got rid of it when we started a family and needed a bigger car.

      My friend and I were discussing services yesterday and she took her two year old car into the dealership to be serviced. $800 later… The service included dropping her and a few other customers off at a shopping centre. The person said he was leaving as he had another job but warned them not to get their services dome at the dealership as apprentices do the jobs and the only fully qualified mechanic was one supervisor.

      • freakatronic on 17/04/2016 - 15:18

        May I ask the name of your reliable mechanic? I'm in Perth and it's major service time.

        • Emli on 17/04/2016 - 15:57

          Myaree service centre..take your log book as he will fill it in. He made me go home one day to get it as I wasn't going to bother. Now I know the importance of that from looking for s second hand car for my daughter. Can't help you with north of the river mechanics but my friend has the name of a few slightly further south because it has been a hot topic for her after her recent experience and she has collected a few names for her friends.

        • freakatronic on 17/04/2016 - 20:22

          @Emli: Thanks very much for that. I'm kinda SOR anyway.

        • SaberX on 18/04/2016 - 16:23

          @Emli:

          Thanks Emli. I'll google myaree service centre - does the guy /mechanic you work with have a name, just so I can state it if I get lost over the phone?

          Having bought a second hand car as well - what did you find in terms of the 'importance' of the log book? Mine was missing and cost a bomb to replace supposeldy (when I went to the Myaree Honda along leach highway, where all the car dealerships were). I had some old receipts strewn in the glovebox showing what had been serviced before. OTherwise I got the Honda lady (as i knew her) To print me out what each 10,000 km mark servicing requires (for the honda civic). Im assuming this would be replicated in a honda official logbook?

          But will I run into any problems without it? Would your recommended mechanic still be able to do a good job without it?

          Sorry for so many questions but does he work weekends and how much does a standard/general servicing (without any major replacement of items to be purchased and fitted etc) cost anyway - just for my know how? Having been used to mid $200's with RAC i just didn't want to get a shock if you suddenly said he was $700 a pop or something (which im sure he won't be) :)

          I too think the dealerships charge an arm and leg, my parents go back to the honda dealer as they bought brand new, but would def not go back there if not for that.

        • Euphemistic on 18/04/2016 - 16:33
          +1

          @SaberX: You don't need a log book to get your car serviced. If necessary look up the service schedule online, but your (good) mechanic should be able to tell you what needs doing at each service. Usually there are normal services and then occasionally a 'big' service, often on the 100,000km mark, sometimes 50,000km. The normal service should only cost $200-300. Big one, with a timing belt etc could cost up to $1k.

        • SaberX on 18/04/2016 - 16:36

          @Euphemistic:

          I think that was the problem I had initially. I tried finding my 2009 Honda Civic VTI (MY08 i believe) service logbooks online, but couldn't come across anywhere that listed the original logbooks recommended servicing intervals and items… the only way i got around it was i knew someone in a honda dealer who issued me their services conducted at each 10,000 km mark, assuming these are honda in general and not just the dealer.

          Unfortunately I still need to find my own reputable 'good' mechanic, having always been one of those RAC persons… hopefully the one recommended by Emli above is a knowledgeable, honest guy, or any other recommendations i can find in Perth SOR for Hondas.

        • Emli on 20/04/2016 - 00:33

          @SaberX:
          His name is Kim johns. I rang today and he is not back until early next week, you don't need the log book to get the car serviced. He will ask you if it is a normal service and is there is anything wrong with the car. For me the log book was important when selling a car. When we were helping my daughter buy a car, we wanted to see that the car had been regularly serviced rather than being serviced when there was an issue. The car she bought, which we took to Kim, also had the receipts. If you have lost the log book but keep the receipts (which have the car rego number) I would be happy with that as a I buyer.

          As far as knowledge of what is needed at each service, we took the car my daughter eventually bought to the mechanic and he was able to tell what would be needed at the next service. It was a big service as Hyundai Getz need a timing belt done at 90000km. I feel fairly confident that he knows the ins and outs of major mainstream brands. However, if I had a BMW or Mercedes that may be a different story.

        • Emli on 20/04/2016 - 00:39

          @SaberX: yep, thats the one

        • Emli on 20/04/2016 - 00:53

          @SaberX:
          @SaberX: we have a Mazda 3 and Hyundai i30 which are 4 and 3 years old. The last service for the Mazda in March was $178.20. Hyundai i30 was $202.40. Our cars are serviced twice a year. Most common part replaced are oil filters. Many cars only need servicing once a year unless you do a lot of kilometres or few km like mine ( the engine needs a decent run).

          My daughter's first service with her second hand Getz was $850 but she knew that as the 90000 service requires a timing belt to be replaced. Kim made her aware of that when he did a preinspection. In fact, he recommended not buying a car where the owner had ignored this essential service due to the cost as it was going to be big money often later on.

          He does not work weekends. He does not have a borrow car nor does he have lots of staff to drop you off some where. Those frills will drive costs up I suppose.
          Hope this helps

  • bargainfinder on 15/04/2016 - 17:17

    Just got my mechanic to look at the car, do test drive for the car that I want to buy. He didn't charge me anything

  • Islund on 15/04/2016 - 18:37
    +1

    Check your spare tyre before and after service.

    I lost a brand new unused spare tyre and factory mag wheel.

  • frazel on 15/04/2016 - 21:42

    Girlfriend took her car to in, I said to her to just ask for an oil change and an oil filter.

    Next minute he calls her saying the tyres, breaks, belts all need changing for $1700. She says yes then calls me. I very quickly call him back.

    I said the tires still have 12 months. He said probably 6 months, he then said it's easier if you do everything at once.

    Easier for who..?

  • save my dollarydoos on 15/04/2016 - 21:53

    Having never owned a car much younger than myself my Dad whilst not a mechanic quite capable of more than just the basics so I've never really had to rely on looking for one.

    Of course there'll eventually come a time when I own a car that runs on what he will believe is magic or he'll be slowly turning into fossil fuels himself.

    Edit: and Dad wonders why I want to live a carless lifestyle. Geesus Christ at some of the stories here. Between public transport, inner city (mostly) living life style - I can count on my right hand the number of times in a year I might need a vehicle to go out and still be sober enough to drive it back

  • imahapyboy on 15/04/2016 - 22:10

    so what is this about? you paid $99 for wipers?

  • burningrage on 16/04/2016 - 07:31

    Am I mistaken but isn't that for Mazda you would need to fill in a feedback form and they would always want you to give them at least 8/10 otherwise they;re in trouble?

  • knk on 16/04/2016 - 14:19

    I took my car in once for a routine service, it was just an oil change however I needed the book stamped for warranty purposes.

    I go to fix up the balance to find wiper blades and a globe replaced + billed for with no confirmation, the wipers were an exorbitant price the globe reasonable from memory. I made them remove them, and put the old ones back on. Went straight to supercheap and replaced them myself lol.

  • figarow on 16/04/2016 - 20:44

    The lesson rather is don't be pushed around. What do wipers have to do with servicing anyway? Just do the service and tell me about any issues that I may or may not fix in my own time.

  • kyttiekat on 16/04/2016 - 23:23

    At my last service at the Toyota Dealership (for a Yaris) - they said I'd need to pay $2.7k to replace "both of the bushes in the front suspension, as they're cracked and would fail a pink slip". Apparently the amount is so high because they can't just replace the "bushes", but the entire "front lower control arms".

    After much Googling, I got a second opinion from a local mechanic who said both bushes are "almost" fine, although one could do with replacing. I then got an over-the-phone quote from NRMA to replace both bushes/front lower control arms, and they said the whole job would be $700.

    Soooo… $2.7k at dealer VS $700 at NRMA VS $0 according to local mechanic. CHOICES.

    I guess I should take it to NRMA for a second opinion on whether it's dangerous or not. Or, I suppose, wait til my pink slip in June.

    PS can anyone recommend good little mechanics around Ryde / Homebush area? :)

  • siuol on 30/01/2017 - 21:22

    Sorry for trying to resurrect this old thread.

    Long story short. I live in the Sydney Eastern Suburbs area and I just got the rego checked a week before the rego expired. I am looking for a relatively honest and reliable mechanics than the one I just got my pink slip from.

    Cheers.

    • siuol on 31/01/2017 - 01:56

      Sorry I actually meant I tried to get the pink slip from but I didn't get it

      • Euphemistic on 31/01/2017 - 11:15
        +1

        So do you want a dodgy mechanic to give you a pink slip with an unroadworthy car or you want an honest mechanic to fix all the issues as cheaply as possible without trying to get your headlight fluid replaced?

        • siuol on 31/01/2017 - 19:39

          I am after the 2nd one. And ones who do not:

          1. Saying they will fix the engine oil leak and rear diff leak by saying "will try to fix it but will not taking it apart" and want to charge me $380. Earlier that day i check my garage floor is dry and no oil patches on the floor. After the test I went home and wipe the rear diff clean and the day after I see no new oil stains anywhere.

          2. Saying the wiper blade need to be changed but it is still fully functional (silicone one, and immediately later that day after inspection there was heavy rain and i got no problem with the wipers at all)

          3. Want to charge me $290 for changing front brake pads while the day before i checked and there is still at least 5mm to go.

          4. Replace the starter and asked for 3 hours' labour but eventually when I drove home I saw they didn't install the air box and air filter probably (latches are out of place and 2 hex screws not even into the right holes) and I have to fix it myself.

        • WT on 01/02/2017 - 13:16

          @siuol:

          Sounds really suss!

          how sure are you of having 5mm left on your pads? are you including the backing plate which is usually 4+ mm thick? Most cars wont have that much pad material when new!

        • siuol on 02/02/2017 - 16:37

          @WT:

          Hi WT,

          I just changed the pads myself today. Comparing the old with new:

          https://postimg.org/image/qq85z9aox/

          Let me know what you think. Cheers.

  • donedeed on 31/01/2017 - 01:18

    What about for cars you have bought brand new?
    Will it void my warranty if I was to go to an independent mechanic?
    Is there any real advantage of going to the dealer's mechanic to have it serviced?
    FYI- I have a mazda 3 which I bought brand new 2 years ago. Have only had it serviced twice from the dealers so far.

    • Euphemistic on 31/01/2017 - 11:16

      Just needs to be a licensed mechanic.

    • PVA on 31/01/2017 - 19:52

      advantage is fixed price servicing - i have found dealers are much cheaper for the services.

      • Euphemistic on 31/01/2017 - 21:34

        They can also be much less service for the service which is why many try to find a trustworthy local mechanic.

  • wolfazrael123 on 03/02/2017 - 15:15

    last time I fixed my flat tyre at NRMA Rockdale NSW after my coles road side assistance sent a NRMA car to save me and the guy gave me a coupon for free flat tyre fix. When I was waiting in NRMA Rockdale I asked how much a normal service would cost me, and the reception lady told me $120. And I booked in the service in 2 weeks.

    I got a call after I took my car for the service, the guy gave me a long list of items to be replaced and the total cost would be like 5k+. The front shock absorber was leaking and the back shock absorber need to be replaced for some reason too. My front light was not working, tyres needs rotation, window blade needs to be replaced, etc.

    I was not thinking and allowed them to do rotation $45 and replacement of front lights $25. Then i realised I only bought 4 new tyres like 3 months ago, window blade was also replaced 3 months ago. They must be dodgy. In the end the lady even wanted to charge me $160 or $170 for the service, not including the rotation and replacement because she thought I was a member and found me not a member afterwards. After like 5 minutes of arguing she gave that up.

    I checked with the mechanic who does all vehicle service for my company and the boss told me his boy can't see any signs of leaking and thought there were no reason to replace shock absorber.

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