If the price is much cheaper by 2000 to 3000 dollars than a comparable same model and year car.
Is it a good idea to :
-Buy cars that have done 200,000 km and above
Buying cars that have done 200,000 km and above
tyler.durden on 03/04/2016 - 14:16
Last edited 04/04/2016 - 23:07
Last edited 04/04/2016 - 23:07
closed Comments
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…and the purchase price.
If it's a $2-3k car then it might be worthwhile save…if we're talking about $1-2k off a $20-30k+ car, I'd be saying that the risk & potential impact on future resale might be false economy.
car is in the 7 to 10k range.
Do you mind if I ask the age of the vehicle?
1 or 2 thousand isnt a big discount. how many km's has the normal $7000 cars done?
@PVA:
not sure,
i just know that this car is cheaper by 1 to 2k compared to the same year car.
though this car lacks extras of some of those more expensive cars e.g.
-metalic color paint
-mag wheels@tyler.durden: Yes, it does matter.
200k km over 10yrs is only 20k/yr, so average use. 200k over 1yr would be a different story, you'd want to be asking yourself if it was used as a taxi or similar, in which case it's probably copped a fair flogging.
oic
well it is definitely not 200k over 1yr
but is it worth getting 200,000 km car if it was used about averagely but is cheaper by 1 to 2k?
I think a comparable car could be about 165 to 180,000 km…
not 100%…But from what u are saying, i think it had average use.
@tyler.durden:
cant really compare then.
and as stewballs asked, what year is the car as it makes a difference.a 10 yer old car with 20000km is sus but 150000 would be normal.
link to one of the cars for sale (or similar car)
@tyler.durden:
how many km has the similar ones done?
you have an open ended questions that is too hard to answer.
how long is a piece of string?edit , looks like you edited your reply before I posted.
yes, how old means how old is the car, not sure what else it could mean.
@tyler.durden:
all things being equal, if one car has 100,000km and another has 200,000 but only $1000 cheaper I would buy the 100,000km car but as many have said it isnt that simple.
even you say the dearer car has alloy wheels and metalic paint - there's at least $1k there.@tyler.durden:
Some cars are more reliable than others. If its, say a toyota with 200k's vs a suzuki with 200k. One of them is much more likely to last. Also, things like timing belts, etc.If the 1-2k is a significant km's difference, just throw in the extra $$. That said, the more expensive car might also have issues.
@tyler.durden:
You're not giving enough information for people to make a recommendation. The details make all the difference. If it's a small cheap car such as a Hyundai I wouldn't touch one with over 200kkm for that sort of discount however if you're comparing a bigger car such as a Falcon or Commodore and could save money getting one with 200kkm vs 160kkm I'd be more inclined to say go for it as the bigger, less techy engines tend to last longer. How it's been driven / serviced plays a big part too.Some cars you'd be crazy to get with that many k's, such as a luxury European car that might be cheap to buy but will cost you the purchase price with the first major mechanical issue.
@ATangk: Suzukis are fine IMO, Japanese, make great bikes, maybe you should have said "Holden" (or Daewoo)
Just over a year ago, I bought an 02 Elantra with 211000km and it's been fine.
Car $800.
New plugs/oil/filters $90 DIY service.
New timing belt/water pump/other belts at workshop $650.I did the latter as insurance because yes, the service records were patchy.
I remember the first car I bought in Australia on my second day in here. I just walked across the road there was a servicing place. I asked if they have any cars to sell. The guy showed me a Honda Accord which was fully functional and had 230k on the odometer. The log book only had servicing entries for first 3 years when the car was under warranty. I bought it paying $3000 and had it for 6 years. Later my wife used it to drop and pickup kids from school. Never had a single issue for 6 years. When I had 2 new cars I gave it to a friends brother for $800. He is using it everyday till today for past 3 years.
I was very happy with that car and for the money I saved with that.I suppose by the time the car had proven itself it would have been too late to bother with the tattslotto ticket.
Engine could've been replaced with a newer one.
based on what reason?
more km usually means cheaper
engine replacement would be in the ops favor but id still be asking for all work paperwork before purchase etcFor many reasons, old engine could've given out a while ago and replaced at that time with the intention to drive the car for another 200k. I don't think Google Chrome necessarily meant it was replaced just before posting an ad for sale.
My first car had over 200k clocked on it but the logbook showed a new engine was installed after the first 150k.
thats what i was getting at
any work should have log book evidence
many factors here
if you are buying a hybrid expect batteries to be replaced within a few years maybe less
Gearbox and engine might be worn out or on the way out (4 cylinders especially)
Depending on what car it is and the life its had will be very dependant on km driven
Ensure all servicing has been done
not just minor but major servicing and check all pages are stamped, missed pages or information may ring lack of care issuesmy best bet would be to research what you want and find out the service interval for major parts (timing belts, pumps and filterd etc)
lots of ex taxi fords and commodores out there which will run well beyond 200k if you look after it
although spending an extra grand on a car may save you 2000 in repairs so theres that side too
Depends entirely on the individual car.
Be warned, if some serious problem occurs, $2000 wont get you an awful lot of mechanical work done.if it was 200,000 on a diesel I wouldnt be fussed especially if its in a toyota, mitsi, ford, isuzu. Id be more concern about the running gear, gearbox, diff, transfer case etc.
No way of knowing for sure until you or someone you trust checks it out. Some common problems around that time would be the transmission, or the engine gaskets.
But likewise, these could happen on cars with low kilometerage. If a cars not driven much, or only driven for short periods of time, water can accumulate in the oils and in exhaust system, and never gets to boil off.I agree with captobvious, if it is a diesel, kms don't matter, or if it is an ex-taxi in good condition. Most taxis are serviced frequently.
Unless it has a DPF system installed and then you could be in for a world of pain.
Comparing used cars isn't as simple as answering 1 particular question. Way too many variables on this.
Just my opinion- I would say it depends on the brand. If it was a Chery or Great Wall… don't touch it. If it is a Subaru, Toyota or some other reliable Jap brand wouldn't be too worried. Or as a few people have said, if it's a diesel not so much of a worry; although diesels can known to be more expensive to fix…
have those cars even hit 180-200 yet?? hahahah
I've owned a Toyota with over 300,000km which was looked after and it drove better then identical models with less then half the km, it's got a lot to do with maintenance and previous owners driving style.
What a feeling ! Toyota :)
I had a 1992 Corolla with 400,000km on the clock. Original engine and clutch!
My first Toyota was a second hand Corona 1976, kept for 13 years, my last Toyota was 86, bought brand new in 2012, now WRX 2015 :)
I guess you bought it after realising that it was more reliable than your brand new Daewoo :-p
I have to agree with @paulq00. If your buying a car 10+ years old (the golden era of depreciation) it's more important to consider the vehicle/brand reliability as a selection criteria.
say for instance you were comparing the following two cars:
toyota camry http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Toyota-Camry-2008/…
holden cruze http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Holden-Cruze-2009/…I would take the older toyota (with more kms) every day of the week given the choice between these two vehicles. The cruze has a cheap build quality and expensive repairs are more likely imho.
there is much more to a car than an odometer
Nope. You'll spend more than 2 or 3 grand on repairs/services within the first 24 months. Book it.
I wouldn't touch a car with 200,000km or above,doesn't matter how cheap they are :)
And Thankyou for keeping them cheaper! Seriously, cars can easily run past 200,000km, especially modern ones with at have been maintained. On top of that businesses are running vehicles longer/more km because they are getting more reliable.
My forester has 220,000km and runs fine. I've had it for around 4 years and have only had a wheel bearing replaced other than routine maintenance.
Yeah,Subaru make fantastic cars,quality and reliability, I had a 2001 WRX bought brand new for 12 years,never miss a beat,now driving 20015 WRX,Turbo,AWD and Manual,love it,but if I buy a second car,I will try to get the one with lowest kms if possible :)
now driving 20015 WRX
And its a time machine!
We had a Prado with 350k on it. Nothing wrong with it, apart from the leather on the steering wheel falling apart. V6's are robust in the long run.
Because it's Toyota,one of the best and largest car manufacturing in the world,what I try to said,if I buy a second hand car,I will avoid cars that over 200,000km :)
What about a train with 200,000km I could also afford?
OP, you have not provided enough information to give a realistic educated answer.
If you want a real answer, provide a comparison between the 200,000km vehicle and the apparent "other" vehicle that is less than 200,000km yet is more expensive.
Questions that need answering:
Log books?
How many KMs on the apparent "other"/"comparable" car?
What make/model are the cars?
How long is a piece of string?You can absolutely get an OK car with over 200,000 kms but the price and history has to be right. If it has been looked after, it can be a better buy than a car with less KMs that had not been looked after.
But again - Give us useful information or be prepared for a stupid answer.
A generic question like this really is a waste of time -
You might as well just give the exact specs of what you are comparing with.
You can be given a more relevant answer if you told us what car…. I can't comprehend why you don't want to!
Well, seeing you had done some google searches and still decided to post this question tells me that the google searches turned up empty.
Your question is akin to asking if its okay to buy a house which is 30 years old. Now if that 30 year old house is a complete piece of garbage, or if it was built properly unlike todays houses, nobody has any idea.
i found this
https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1247961
i just wanted to see what ozbargain community thought..
since the WP article is old…and won't get any new answers
sorry but how hard is to tell us what car it is? is it a big secret?
okay say it is a a toyota
could be-camery
-aurion
-or corollajust use one of those as example..
the point is
would 200 000 kms on any of those cars be worth buying if u can save 2k to 3k on a comparable same year model.
and the age of this car is less than 10 yearsand how reliable would 200 000 km on those japs cars be?
do i need to worry about the engine or parts needing to be replaced at such a high kmand is it a good deal considering it that this car does not have things like
-metal paint
-mag wheels.whereas those other cars do have mags wheels, metal paint
and kms is a bit lower than this car by approx 30 000 kmToyotas hold up pretty darn well most of the time. Had a prado with 350ks on it, nothing wrong.
Also, 30k's difference isnt a whole lot. Probably worth saving the money since its not much. More about the condition of the car, see if its damage, been in crashes, etc.
About replacing parts. Timing belts need to be changed at around 150k for certain engines. Gotta check which one to make sure, but snapped timing belts are a disaster, and they arent cheap to replace either (usually replace with water filter and others as well).
how about it lacks metallic paint and mag wheels…
how much is that worth?
do most modern cars still use timing belt?
Metallic paint is just for visuals. Will be more effort to clean?
What are mag wheels compared to? Alloys? Its not much difference unless the other car has steel wheels. If thats the case, pick mag wheels. (possibly looking at 1k+, but theyre not new so doesnt make a difference)
Almost every car uses a timing belt. You'd be hard pressed to find one with a timing chain nowadays.
Careful because 150k was the interval for a specific toyota. These intervals can even be 100k.@tyler.durden: I reckon factory alloys and metallic paint don't make much difference in resale price for comparable second hand cars. It's more about the overall condition mostly including kms. Mor km means more wear on everything. Not just the drivetrain, but seats, switches etc.
They say for resale you shouldn't buy the top spec model as you don't get your money back. Once a car gets over about 10 years old it's all about the engine and air conditioner, not the fancy gadgets and paint.
maybe for u in doesn't matter
but i believe ppl will see a car as being more higher valued / cooler with
-metallic paint
-mag wheelsI know I do.
Without knowing the engine condition.
If u had a choice between a plain white one and a metallic painted one with mag wheels..
you saying u would choose white one?Visuals do make a difference.
It affects the price.
e.g. scratches, dents are considered visuals but would drop the price quite a lot.Also if u look at many ads, the plain white ones usually sell much cheaper than metallic painted ones.
Just ask any dealer.@tyler.durden: given the same model, same price and same other features and a choice of alloys, metallic paint vs white with std wheels sure, I'd probably go for the alloy wheels, but the colour has to be one I'm happy with and that is a personal choice.
Fact is though that there are so many other factors when buying/selling a used car that metallic/alloys don't make a significant difference in price in most situations when compared with other stuff on the car like condition, kms or safety features. At the end of the day unless it is a very popular metallic, or widely hated colour the price won't be much different to any other colour.
i think someone that would know is a dealer..
both of us are just opinions..
but from my own experience in looking at cars in ads,
I think the metallic painted ones are more priced higher than a plain white one..
if every thing else was close to equal.==
also metallic paint cost more to buy/spray than white oneshttps://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=200805050612…
==
And there is more white cars on the road than other colors
so the sellers would need to be compete more than others.@tyler.durden: fair enough, that's your opinion, but not mine. I still think you'll find that a) metallic paint won't affect the price much unless b) the metallic paint is on a higher spec model.
Once again with second hand cars it is unusual, especially with a car in the order of 100000k or more, for the metallic paint to be the decider between two cars.
i think white is too common on the road
so if there is more white car sellers
the price would need to be lower to be competitive..Also between white and silver and black
what are your order of preference if u were to buy the car?
Based only on the color@tyler.durden: I'll never own a black car, many won't. Otherwise Im not really fussed what colour it is, once again the other factors come into it first, having said that I won't buy anything in a colour I hate.
Fleets predominantly buy white or silver for resale value, they are easier to sell.
i am just saying if all the other factors are the same..
which color would u choose white or silver.
Is it a good idea to :
-Buy cars that have done 200,000 km and above
No, better to buy a much newer car if savings is only $1- $2k for a comparable car.
CORRECT ANSWER: It depends.
Ask a vague question, get a vague answer.
A real world example with details about the car itself, age, previous drivers, etc, makes a BIG difference. A regularly serviced Ford Falcon that was driven by an elderly couple that has done 200k will be loads more reliable than a modified, rarely serviced Turbo Subaru WRX that has also done 200k and has been owned by a number of teenagers that does a bunch of track days every year.
Think of it like this, all cars have a finite life. Depending on the make and model of the car other parts will need replacing if it's Holden or Ford a lot is going to need replacing by the time the car reaches 100,000kms. If its a Toyota Corolla not much will need to be done until after 200,000kms as their parts generally last longer (in my experience anyway). Most reasonably priced Jap cars will last and have longer lasting parts than other cars… generally. Of course the other issues are how it has been serviced, cared for and driven. The older the car, the more likely these factors will play a part and the less life the car will have and the more that will need to be spent to keep it on the road.
Taking all the above factors into account I try and figure out the yearly running cost of owning a vehicle. The depreciation, fuel, servicing, insurance and repair costs. It's only worth buying second hand IMHO if a new car would have a more expensive yearly running cost. You may be surprised to find that often a new car is cheaper than a Gumtree bargain. The Gumtree seller has just figured out the car is too expensive to run! That's not to say second hand bargains can't be had… but this requires a lot of research and planning and napkin math.
My rules with buying cars are:
Never buy new
Never buy anything with over 50,000 kms
Never buy anything that is unreliable (research owners opinions online)
Never buy anything with overtly expensive replacement parts or servicing
Never buy anything without a mechanic checking it over properly
Always try to calculate the yearly car ownership cost as a true cost comparison to other similar carsthanks
for the tips
Commodores a nd Falcons will run up 200,000km easy without dramas. Check out taxis.
You then go on to say a new car could be cheaper in overall running costs, but that you would never buy one. Which one is it? I do agree that a couple of years old, under 50,000km are good buys if you have the money for a near new car. If you don't, then stick to Toyota, Nissan, Mitsubishi, ford, Holden, Subaru, Mazda etc in their big selling models, not a niche model or something that a boy racer would buy.
Very good response.
A wise and honest car wholesaler (an almost mythical being) once told me, 'When you are buying a car, you are paying for the life left in that car'.
Your answer pretty much explains this.
The exception to this simple rule is for rare and collectible cars, but they are truly rare, and collectible. :)
Warranties are so long now you should cross off your first rule. Buying new with 7 years warranty? Thats a solid deal.
Great tips
When you want advice between 2 cars, come back here and ask. Till then, this post is a hypothetical waste of time!
i updated it in the post above
Yep, and then still kept going about other hypotheticals like different colours etc…
If you want 1 specific answer, ask 1 specific question.
What are u talking about hypothetical colours?
I said this car does not have metallic paint ie plain colour
Tell me what hypothetical colours are u talking about?
Why don't u go back and re read what I said more carefully.
Lol give it up. You can't even ask a question about 1 specific car!
okay say it is a a toyota
could be-camery
-aurion
-or corollajust use one of those as example..
And where is the part about hypothetical colours?
You showed me some statement, yet nothing about hypothetical colours…Would it make any difference if i specifically said it was a camry or aurion or corolla..
The point is, it a toyota with plain color and done 200,000 km and cost 2 to 3k less
while the other cars that are comparable has metallic paint and includes mag wheels/You should learn to read more carefully next time..
===
Also see this thread
Was anything specific mention about a particular carhttps://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=201102110307…
@tyler.durden: Never seen someone try so hard to be vague and argue that they arent. Confounding. Why cant you ask one specific question?
Also no-one gives a shit about your metallic paint except you. No-one says 'Wow, he's got metallic paint. He must be a really valuable member of society' i.e it's all in your head.
Sigh I am reading, and frankly your mixed up thoughts are giving me a headache. Or maybe it's because you can't write what you're actually thinking, but either way it's difficult to read.
Coloured cars help a used car sell if a) It's a desirable colour, and b) It suits the car. A bright orange Camry would depreciate like crazy, but a bright Orange Swift or i20 would catch someone's attention and they'd be prepared to pay more. There's no different between white and silver when it comes to resale.
It's all dependent on the car itself.Alloy wheels would be the same thing, are we talking factory alloys or aftermarket? Nice design or big and chrome and ugly? Again, these variables make a difference, as does the model of the car (see above).
So again, there is so specific model here so there's no specific answers. If you had've said 'Here's this Camry in orange with big black wheels, is that worth more than a white one with hub caps' then we could give you simple yes or no answers, but at the end of the day it also depends if you find that 1 buyer that wants an orange Camry with big black wheels, coz if you can find them then I'm sure they'd pay more.
Oh, and as I've said countless times, I work in the industry, I'm not just speculating.
Not arguing about anything
The guy said I mention hypothetical colorsJust correcting him on his comment…
maybe u should read the entire thread again..
===
Do u even know how to read?"Would it make any difference if i specifically said it was a camry or aurion or corolla..
The point is, it a toyota with plain color and done 200,000 km and cost 2 to 3k less
while the other cars that are comparable has metallic paint and includes mag wheels/You should learn to read more carefully next time.."
===
also see this thread
https://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=201102110307…Was anything specific mention about a particular car
@tyler.durden: >maybe u should read the entire thread again
yeahnah. Got better shit to do. ALso i dont need to read the entire thread to see some 100 collective downvotes on your 'question theories'.
since u got better shit to do
well get lost then…no need to respond to my thread
or read some comment and make a personal attack..go back to whatever better shit you are doing
bye bye now…
are u a car dealer?
===
if this thread or what I write is giving u a headache then u are free to go somewhere else..
no one makes u do anything in this world
including reading anything I wrote.you chose to read it yourself..
and you choose to respondif u don't like it, you can go somewhere else…
Right so that was the part you replied to, not the part where I answered your question?
Wow…
Are u a car salesmen?
I ask this but u didn't answer…====
when did u answer my question?
oh right…. after making some dumb comment about me, saying I made up some hypothetical color
and then u posting a statement that does not prove any of your claims..also your personal attack on me
-frankly your mixed up thoughts are giving me a headache
-maybe it's because you can't write what you're actually thinkingI have no interest in what you have to say anymore..
Since you have no interest in this thread either
Please leave this thread..there's plenty of other threads u can devote your life to..
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may depend on whether it has had logbook servicing