Found this in the catalogue. Recently plastidipped my rims and this was one of the products I was considering. However it usually retails for $30 a can.
Now it's much more affordable. You end up saving $37.76 which is quite good.
Found this in the catalogue. Recently plastidipped my rims and this was one of the products I was considering. However it usually retails for $30 a can.
Now it's much more affordable. You end up saving $37.76 which is quite good.
I used two cans of plasti dip for 4 tyre rims. Lasted at least 1 year. A few marks now but it has been almost 18 months. Will give this brand a try as it is a lot cheaper
thanks for that.
how did you prepare tha wheels first, just a good wash and let dry?
Just scrubbed them real clean and let them dry well before spraying.
Not sure how using a cheaper product is expected to translate into a better product. Usually you get what you pay for.
Do yourself a favour and get some Foliatec spray film. High quality German import and good for 3 years. Repco sell it but at a crazy mark up.
May as well spend a bit more for quality than have to redo them all the time.
that kit's just normal paint
number of cans: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/206933#comment-2974001
cleaning: stays on alright! it's not even affected with a very thick layer of brake dush. i use a soft woolie wheel brush to clean wheels. if some parts i.e. edges don't have enough coverage, it'll peel fairly easily (pressure washer would be better for cleaning)
it's easy to remove if you've sprayed it on thick enough. start picking at an edge and roll/slowly peel it off
thanks.
how did you clean the wheels? Did you use tape etc on the edges where the tyre fits.
any hints?
before painting? just the standard wheel cleaner, rinse and wipe dry. need to be very thorough drying otherwise the trapped water will cause bubbling/lack of adhesion. i usually leave it overnight to dry.
as i was spraying my wheels black, i didn't bother with the index cards around the edge that some people use. something i only learned after was to coat your tyres with tyre shine (and be careful that it's the tyres that get coated or the paint won't stick). this way, any overspray should peel off your tyres much easier.
various tutorials say to make sure the edge of your wheel gets a nice thick coating, but not so thick that it runs.
also if you're not taking your entire wheel off your car, you'll need to garbage bag your brakes. while spraying, don't forget to rotate your wheels 180 degrees so you get even coverage on every spoke/surface
I have 17" rims and used about 3-4 cans with 5-6 heavy coats.
For those who want to wrap their rims. I highly suggest you spend some time on YouTube learning how to 'plastidip'. Dipyourcar on YouTube is a pioneer of plastidipping so there are plenty of great tutorials on how to achieve a beautiful dipped wheels.
Wrapping your rims and dipping are completely different things. You can vinyl (wrap) the faces of rims but not practical for full car coverage.
People need to keep in mind that you can scratch 'dipping' off for with your nails, its not durable stuff but great for temp wheel sprays, badges etc. Sure people can make it look good on cars (and make it look bad) but its not very practical on cars due to not being very durable. Apples and oranges with the durability of a vinyl wrap.
Just keeping in line with the product name, "custom wrap". I know what they both are.
but others may not…
When is it gonna start?
Starts in 2 days on the 4th.
Thanx
I used a lot of cans of PD for my rims, but I did flat black over silver alloys and covered a lot of the inside too.
I looked up reviews for other products at the time but PD came out much more highly recommended for ease of removal. Longevity was similar for all.
i did the inner barrels too. mostly because it would look strange with massive silver patches thanks to the large gaps in-between spokes.
also because of a personal tendency to go a bit nuts when spraying ;)
My car's roof paint is peeling. Is this appropriate to use?
or should I get vinyl wrap
if it's just your clearcoat peeling, then get the clear gloss cans.
if the paint's peeled down to the basecoat, it's going to look weird with just the roof covered with either this stuff or a wrap. (wraps also don't cover up a bad paint surface. you'll need to sand back the paint till it's nice and smooth for the wrap to adhere to)
all this depends on the condition of the rest of the car and how far you want to go with the fix
Yeah its the clear coat that is peeling.
And I'm trying to sell the car too.
Respray is too exp/not worth it, so looking for the cheapest way to conceal the peeling
in that case i'd recommend you use permanent clear coat instead of the spray-on-peel-off stuff which will be easier to blend in with the existing clear on adjacent panels.
wet sand carefully, spray a few even layers of clear and use a cutting compound to blend it as best as you can.
using anything else will make the damage even more obvious
@tdw:
cheers, do u mean clear coat tin then paint it on?
@mmd: if you have an air-powered sprayer, yes.
while you won't get a perfect finish, you'll still get a better result with aerosol cans than with a paintbrush.
(less fine sanding required, as well)
@tdw:
hmmm, can u link a cheap air powdered sprayer please? I'm a total noob to this stuff
@mmd: you can get the blackridge ones sca sell. semi-decent but do you really want to buy one for a one-off job?
@tdw:
Oooh an air compressor. I think the spray cans will have to do.
Been reading a few online forums and they said to do a wet sand down then spray on.
Probably best to sand it back so the surface is flat then you can use either this plastidip imitation or vinyl. If you choose vinyl, you should use the branded ones such as Avery dennison or 3M. Cheap Chinese vinyl wraps are hard to work with and won't last long.
how many tins needed for 4 alloy wheels?
was thinking of doing this and the price is OK now.
Does it stayon with washing, everyday driving etc.
How easy is it to remove when you dont want it any more?
(yes, lotsa questions)