Buying a Car 3 Year Old Car with 100k to 130k on The Odometer

pg13 on 31/08/2015 - 16:24
Last edited 31/08/2015 - 16:43

Dear fellow ozbargainers

Ill keep this as short as possible.
I am looking to get a new car (well a second hand one) and was browsing but couldn't help to browse for cars that are out of my budget (which happens all the time to everyone im sure) and noticed that some cars that have done 100k to 150k in around 3 years are considerably cheaper. Most dealers offer Platinum Warranty from AWN I think it was. And was wanted your thoughts or any recommendations on this kind of vehicle. If it would be OK to purchase or not.

Please advise me. Thank you for all the input in advance.

Thanks

PS.) The car I am currently looking at is a VW Passat

Automotive

Comments

  • QuickToThePointless on 31/08/2015 - 16:41
    +9

    Remember to check under the bonut things.

    If the big thing is leaking, do not buy.

    • pg13 on 31/08/2015 - 16:49
      +2

      bonut?

    • nocure on 31/08/2015 - 17:20

      If the big thing rattles, do not buy.

    • megadeth on 01/09/2015 - 21:48
      +1

      The seller could spray a $2 bottle of degreaser and a bucket of water on the "big thing", and it'll be as new as the one's standing in the dealership. No leakage noticed is NOT a guarantee that the car is clean. Look for proven service history. Most cars have a three year warranty/fixed price servicing offers with new cars so service history for a three year old car should not be a problem. Listen to the sound, specially starting, it'll tell you the story. Try closing/opening driver side door a few times and it'll give you an idea of the usage. Driver side seat if too depressed. front shock, try pressing them, they should feel very hard. Try to test drive if possible. Look for the current rego papers and match the name with the original owner's name on the dealership sale records if available with the seller (to ensure it's first hand, not 2nd, 3rd or 4th hand). Dents, look below the engine for deposits, rims for any scratches tell about careless driving history.

      • tonyjzx on 02/09/2015 - 19:23

        if there's a hole in the bonut, do not buy it

        if there's jam in the bonut, do not buy it

  • Scorpiogirl on 31/08/2015 - 16:43

    I think it depends on the model of car also. Any in mind?

    • pg13 on 31/08/2015 - 16:44

      Right now looking at some VW passats. THanks

  • JimB on 31/08/2015 - 16:46
    +2

    I'd steer clear of a VW Passat that has done over 100k.

    A motor vehicle warranty from a 3rd party or from the dealer is generally not worth the paper it's written on, there are lots of loopholes and written to product the dealer/warranty provider (insurance company).

    • pg13 on 31/08/2015 - 16:49

      Thanks JB1 for your input. Is this from personal experience? I always wondered that as well. This aftermarket warranties seem to have mixed reviews.

      • JimB on 31/08/2015 - 16:53

        Nope, just that a lot of things go wrong with Passats.

        While they may not be expensive to fix in Germany, the average Mechanic doesn't know much about these cars and parts are expensive here in Australia.

        I do drive (and like) a VW Golf GTI DSG that's done over 100k. It's been ok so far reliability wise and I'm going to keep driving it until it needs expensive repairs as it costs me nothing to keep it (and worth nothing if I sold it), but there's no way I would buy a car with over 100k on the odometer, with the exception of a Toyota Hilux or commercial vehicle.

      • spackbace on 31/08/2015 - 16:54

        Yeah avoid 'free' extended warranties, but there are full factory warranties available at a cost.

        I'd avoid VW's with over 100k on them but that's just me. There's a reason that their resale takes a dive once the factory warranty has ended.

        • JimB on 31/08/2015 - 16:56
          +1

          A lot of the warranties have lots of limitations of the cost of repairs, so check it with a fine tooth comb.

          Some warranties specify you must service it from the dealer you both it from every 5,000km! And those services are going to be at well above market rates.

        • rompastompa on 31/08/2015 - 17:02

          There's a reason that their resale takes a dive once the factory warranty has ended.

          One could argue that the gamble is a bargain :)

        • spackbace on 31/08/2015 - 17:02
          +2

          @rompastompa:

          Tell that to people that have to replace the engine in their Golf :P

          Bargain for some, loss for others. Casino always wins :P

        • pg13 on 31/08/2015 - 22:15

          Thanks for the input

  • itsdanthaman on 31/08/2015 - 17:16
    +2

    Wife bought a 3yr old suburu liberty with 120thou, and has been the most reliable, well built car ive ever seen 40thou km's later.

    Higher km's in the right car means nothing.

    • battler on 31/08/2015 - 19:00

      Key point: right car
      Passat is not

      • pg13 on 31/08/2015 - 22:16

        VW seems to have a bad reputation in this topic

  • Bonsaichop on 31/08/2015 - 17:19
    +2

    It's been said to me a few times that European cars are designed to run about 100k. The reason being is that in most parts of Europe in winter the roads need to be salted to avoid icing. Because of this most cars rust out after 100k-ish kms. So that's their design limit… apparently.

    That being said, I had a 528i (e39 '99 build) for about 8 years and it had done about 220k by the time I was done with it. I bought it when it was about 4 years old with 100k on it. What a crapshoot! After about 125k everything fell apart in it. From die-cast door handles, to plastic water impellers and every sensor inbetween. Even the damn buttons wore out! Actually, off the top of my head here's the list of what I remmeber went wrong:

    Plastic water impeller disintegrated.
    O2 sensor failed 3 times
    All 4 window regulators (power window motors) fell apart from being die cast
    2 die cast door handles (outside) broke off
    6 door handles broke internally
    Sunroof would not close properly
    Rear boot door did not latch
    Rear crossmember cracked under fatigue
    Stereo wiring loom plastic became brittle and cracked
    Climate control buttons disintegrated
    Glove box light switch stuck on
    3 inner door panels fell off due to brittle plastic
    Front and rear window seals cracked
    Window Wiper pump failed
    Airbox plastic cracked
    Water tank cracked
    Strut boots disintegrated
    There was plenty more.. it was like every second week there was a new issue with the damned thing.

    I only kept it so long because I was travelling to<->from work about 180km round trip and it cruised on the freeway quite nicely. But never again!

    • slknv on 31/08/2015 - 18:44

      Sounds about as well built as the Audi A4 avant I owned.

      European cars… Fine if you buy new and get rid of them before the warranty expires (and lose 50%+ in depreciation).

    • pg13 on 01/09/2015 - 08:23

      wow that must have cost you a bum~

  • Davros on 31/08/2015 - 17:21
    +3

    Cheapest and most robust cars are generally second hand commies and falcons and there are a far greater choice to choose from.
    Some other mug bought them and lost a motza as they depreciated but the motors are near unkillable with taxis often having 500,000 klm and more on them.
    You should be able to get a well maintained privately owned 10 year old or newer with 120,000klm or less on it for under $6k
    Important to buy boring, straight and unmodified.
    I have done this for 30 years, I hang onto them for 5 years and step into another.
    As I buy well I usually manage to sell for near what I paid.
    I have never had anything more than plugs belts brake pads, oil, tyres and one electric window mechanism ($130 fitted) in all that time and have been able to divert a lot of free'd up money to assets that actually provide income.

    add: I have had new cars and I have had european cars and I have had new european cars and at the end of the day they were just a car. A car that cost a hell of a lot more for nothing more than wank value.

  • oscargamer on 31/08/2015 - 17:39

    you need to be specific about which car you are looking at…

    at that relatively high mileage in a few years, some makes are worth looking at, some you shouldn't touch with a long thing made of wood covered in brown stuff

    and the service history is ABSOLUTELY VITAL ! oil changes MUST be done as and when required, and at that mileage the car should have had (or will likely very soon need) a timing belt change (unless it has a chain)

    cars ain't cars

  • enzioFirenze on 31/08/2015 - 21:04
    +1

    Passat is crappy especially if it has done more than 100k. I'd recommend a Japanese one if you are going for a car that has done >100k. Toyota would be the preference but other Japanese varieties are just as well too.

    • pg13 on 31/08/2015 - 22:24

      Thanks

  • pg13 on 31/08/2015 - 22:27
    -1

    How About Korean cars?

    • enzioFirenze on 31/08/2015 - 23:04

      if you are referring to Kia, I don't think they have a great record either but they seem to offer a 7 year company warranty which may come in handy!

    • itsdanthaman on 01/09/2015 - 07:14
      -1

      gtfouttahere

  • Geewhizz on 01/09/2015 - 05:58

    Whatever car you decide upon, consider that the timing belt is likely in need of replacing, so check the price of having that done.

  • r2160 on 01/09/2015 - 09:19
    +1

    I put 290,000km on a VT commodore and the only thing I ever replaced was a window winder and radiator.
    My mum put over 500,000km on an Corolla and only ever had to maintain it.

    Old European cars are just like a money pit.

    • pg13 on 01/09/2015 - 09:39

      wow 500k! that's impressive.
      Did she still have it serviced like every 10000~ 15000km?

      • r2160 on 02/09/2015 - 08:05

        Yes, she had it serviced regularly and only ever did normal maintenance items eg clutch, brakes etc.

        I might add that the odometer stopped working at 468000km and she drove the car like that for another 5 years.

        She just traded the car in on a new corolla and the old one was sold and is still being driven.

        • itsdanthaman on 02/09/2015 - 19:12

          at what km's does the fuel cap fall off? Its been awhile since ive seen a VT with one intact lol

        • r2160 on 03/09/2015 - 10:40

          @itsdanthaman: Mine ran like a watch. I never had any problems with it at all. I wish I had not traded it to be honest.

  • Euphemistic on 01/09/2015 - 09:34
    +1

    Toyota, Subaru, Mazda, Nissan shouldn't give you much in the way of dramas for the right car. Also falcon, commodore tend to be built for more than 100k km.

    If it is 3years old with 100-150k on it, that is fairly high kms for the age. It would be good to check if they are highway kms or stop start. Someone who drives on the freeway or open highway for work could rack that up easily and if serviced properly will keep running for ages. Stop start in heavy traffic will be a lot harder on gearbox, brakes etc

    Personally I bought a Subaru Forester with around 196000 on it. Was a fair bit cheaper than comparable models. I knew it would need a timing belt change soon which would cost. Once I got that done, and a wheel bearing the car has been running fine for three years. I got the rear suspension repaired as well. I could have kept driving with it, but occasional towing meant I wanted It fixed too. Sure my car is a bit rough around the edges, but it runs well still, 3 years later. I will clarify that I am handy mechanically and can do a lot of minor repairs myself and understand that some things failing are not the end of the world for most cars.

  • John on 01/09/2015 - 14:12

    I've twice bought cars with over 140k on the odo without major problems. It was a Daihatsu Charade and a Honda CRV.

    If it was Japanese car, I would be comfortable to drive it as long as its serviced regularly. Although I would probably not drive it for long travel (4+ hours). I would steer clear from anything European and Korean made.. I have heard enough horror story about them.

    Japanese cars are cheap, great, and built to last.

    • pg13 on 01/09/2015 - 15:17

      Thanks

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