Is it worth paying the extra for money for good tyres?

donedeed on 29/07/2014 - 22:03
Last edited 30/07/2014 - 15:04

Hi,
So I need to change all four tyres for my car. And I'm just looking around for which tyres to get.
I had a look at costco, which they have michelin tyres. But they're $150 each (including fitting, but no wheel alignment).
I've used Korean tyres in the past and they've been fine, no problems with them. But they're about $120 each.
So as you can see, michelin are not immensely more expensive, but I just wanted to gather some opinions on whether you would say it's really worth that extra $30 or so for michelin tyres.
Or if you have any other recommendations, please let me know!
Thank you!

EDIT: I drive a 2010 honda jazz! I do a reasonable amount of driving, for both work and personal use; 300-350 km/week. No real long distance drives.

Update: Sorry! I think people are getting the impression that I want to spend minimum amount of money on tyres, but that's not what I meant. I was basically asking whether you guys thought the more expensive tyres like michelin is worth the value compared to a good Korean tyre. I would never compromise for cheap, crappy tyres!
Thanks for all your input.

Automotive

Comments

  • Amaris on 29/07/2014 - 22:31
    +1

    As long as it is a well known brand, European Jap or Korean, it should be OK. Just be careful if you get unknown Chinese brands!

  • mmd on 29/07/2014 - 22:51
    +2

    It depends on ur driving conditions (any snow?), but if its only a $30 difference per tyre, I would probably go for the Michelins. However I would definately shop around to see if u can get a better price.
    I recently went to City discount tyres in Perth (they have stores nationwide), and paid just over $100 per tyre for 4 new Sumitomo touring plus. Sumitomo is a Japanese brand, but these tyres were made in Thailand. I'm not a F1 driver, but it gets me from A to B, and performed well on a recent long drive.

  • YouLIKEyouLICK on 29/07/2014 - 23:17
    +4

    YES, never skimp on tyres and brake pads! Go to Tempe Tyres, you should get branded tyres, Get the Pirelli Cinturato P1 tyres for $110 each for 15inch, best rated tyres for around that price range, best tyres Ive ever used for a regular car(carolla).

    The problem with some Korean tyres, they handle fine in the dry, but not as grippy in the wet. I've had Khumo KH17 and they sucked in the wet big time, it's like butter.

    If you go Korean go Hankook. But I prefer Micheline, Pirelli, Dunlop, Continental and Yokohama. I also have Goodyear Assurance Tripplemax on my work car, good grip, but way too noisy, you feel every little bump.

    I have tried many brands over my plentiful years of driving and racing experience, but for a normal car, you have to factor in safety first and then the price.

    Costco is not that cheap, but reasonable and they don't have a great range. Every place charges for wheel alignment(about $40), but if you buy four sometimes they will make the tyres cheaper for you, just don't be shy to ask.

    • MegaSuperUltraTight on 29/07/2014 - 23:39
      +4

      I totally agree on not skimping on tyres! Just shop around and have a look online on the ratings of each tyre that you are considering.

      About Korean tyres, I have used Khumo KH31, they feel good in the dry but not great when it's wet, so I won't use that brand again. I have Continentals CC5 on my Falcon at the moment, boy it handles fantastic in wet and dry conditions.

      My past bad experience when I had my first car and not much money, I guess when I was really young and didn't know crap all about tyres, I bought the cheapest tyre I could get for my Diahatsu Charade. I ended up sliding into a tree on a wet rainy day because I was unable to brake in time and didn't want to hit the car in front of me, I wasn't speeding, it was just a slight curved corner going downhill, it was like the tyres was on oil. I was lucky I had no passengers and lucky to avoid the cars parking on the side and not injuring myself.

      If it only saves you once a year, then I guess it's a goodyear…. I always remember that ad.

    • Kkuba on 16/09/2014 - 12:29

      Agree with your statement about not skimping on tyres.

      Disagree with your point about brake pads.

      Sorry to go off topic, but it is something I wanted to clear up. Surprised that even with your racing experience you put so much emphasis on brake pads for road use. Don't get me wrong, for racing, brake pads are very important.

      I may have missed your point here a bit, so I will state my position on it, and let you respond, in case I have missed the mark completely.

      The brake pads will make little to no difference. Basically, as long as the brake pads can lock up the wheels (in all required situations), having better brake pads will make no difference. Stopping distance is limited entirely by the tyres. And I could say with confidence that all brake pads produced will lock up the wheels in every situation for 99.9% of drivers, and for those that it won't, they will know to buy better pads.

      The only difference that brake pads make are to resistance to heat fade, initial bite, brake pad life and brake pedal feel.

      Heat fade only happens if you are racing, and maybe if you are towing through the mountains, but even then, a good driver will use engine braking and not cook the brakes. A normal car going down a mountain might start to overheat its brakes, but I have never heard of them cooking to the point of fade, excluding of course those that are trying to become the next Takumi Fujiwara.

      Initial bite will make a difference in stopping distance only in the time that it takes to achieve full brake torque, which is, from my time in the profession, a small small fraction of a second, I can't remember an exact figure. But to put it into perspective, it might reduce your stopping distance form 100kph, by a couple of cm, more than likely too small to measure.

      Brake pad life, well here you will find that high performance pads will usually not last as long as regular pads, but that's a whole other story.

      Pedal feel, again to the average motorist, it will not make a difference. It might help the driver to achieve threshold braking, if the car does not have ABS, but again most people will just stamp on the brake as hard as possible in a hard stop. If you have ABS, then no worries.

      I'd be curious to hear what your thoughts are, I know this post was a while ago, but on the off chance, I look forward to your response.

      Source: amateur racer & ex-vehicle dynamics engineer working on ABS.

  • Cheeper on 29/07/2014 - 23:53

    Depends…
    If you just drive local A to B then any new tyre will do the job.
    If you do a bit of travelling then good tyres are worth every cent.
    How do you use your car??
    What kind of car is it??

    • Geewhizz on 30/07/2014 - 07:09
      +2

      If you just drive local A to B then any new tyre will do the job.

      As long as grip isn't important when it's wet, I guess! Tyres can be the difference between whether you stay alove or not, so do some research.

      OP you'll need to get in quickly but until the end of the month Yokohama are offering 4 for the price of 3 at several outlets, including Bob Jane.

  • Typical16-bitEnjoyer on 30/07/2014 - 00:25
    +2

    Biggest difference with cheap tyres is wet weather performance. If there's not a huge difference in price don't skimp.

  • snappy1234 on 30/07/2014 - 05:04
    +1

    Bought a car with Nankangs- gawd scary in the wet (they should sell the other type of rubbers ;)

  • ESEMCE on 30/07/2014 - 07:43
    +1

    How much do you value your life?
    And/or the life of others who you drive around.
    Enough Said..

  • AmpeD on 05/08/2014 - 10:03

    Learn how to drive with shagged tyres and experience a blow out and ull be fine and save you cash

  • rodericb on 06/08/2014 - 15:04
    +2

    My car had Korean tyres on it - hankook or kumho - and while they were okay for general pootling about they soon gave up the ghost when the going got tough. For example when a car pulled out in front of me in a roundabout. Stand on the brakes, ABS kicks in early and often due to crap tyres not gripping and this made the difference between pulling up in time and giving the interloper a tap on the rear-right quarter.

    After I got the car back from my insurers cheapest repairer, Capital smart, I went to Costco and got pilot sport 3's. The costs I would incur in getting the terrible repair fixed (hire car) isn't worth it.

    For the tiny tyres on a Jazz I would be getting pilot sport 3 or equivalent bridge stone. For slightly more money you are buying something which could save you much more down the track!

  • Grent on 06/08/2014 - 22:56
    +1

    When I bought my car it came with brand new, cheap, Chinese tyres on it. They barely lasted 15,000kms.
    I replaced them with brand name tyres in the newer 'fuel efficient' compound - better grip and fuel economy is over 1L/100km better now so I am actually saving $2-300 a year on fuel! They'll damn near pay for themselves.

  • st33p on 08/08/2014 - 11:05

    I had Kumho KU31 previously which get good review from a lot of people.
    I find it lacks grips, not only in wet, but in dry as well resulting ABS and traction control to kicks in early.
    Now I will only stick with Bridgestone/Michellin/Continental BUT in the middle upper range model.
    Don't go with the fuel saving model as I believe they have less rolling resistance = grip less ??
    Currently have Bridgestone Serenity plus and quite happy with it.
    Try ring Jobson @ Artarmon for suggestion and pricing

    • rhino015 on 27/08/2014 - 10:07

      I've had the opposite experience personally with Kumho KU31s. They have far more grip than the michelins and goodyears I had before that which cost more than what I paid at Tempe Tyres. Obviously if you get something worth 3 times the price, then you're going to get better grip though, but for this budget performance category I haven't had better. I can get Kumho KU31s for $99 for my car in 205/55/R16 at Tempe Tyres. What else could you possibly get in this sort of price range that would come close? Not much, I'd say. To get an equivalent amount of grip at other shops locally in canberra, I'd need to spend $200 easily.

      Toyo proxes or Federal RSRs would be better obviously.

  • shadowarrior on 08/08/2014 - 17:23

    I have used Michelins on all my cars and motorbikes, except the 4WD which uses a BF AT T/A set. I find them to get me best grip under both dry and wet conditions, low noise, quick to get warm yet doesn't get stupid sticky that they don't last you.

  • Mad Max on 20/08/2014 - 15:32

    I have Bridgestone Turanza ER300. The first set lasted only 19,000Km. I was told it was very unusual, so I tried another set of the same (they gave me a good discount), but I have now done 20,000Km and they need replacing again. And I drive conservatively.
    Complained with Bridgestone. They had a look at the tyres and found all possible excuses. In the end they could not care less. Very bad customer care.
    The grip is good, but they just do not last.

    • boretentsu on 15/09/2014 - 21:09

      I have ER300s which came with the car. The first set lasted about 25,000km. The second set now need to be replaced at 80,000km so I have experienced it on both ends.

      Mind you, due to change in location/life circumstances, the second set was used mainly on freeways driving.

  • Snoop on 25/08/2014 - 12:31

    Firstly,

    YES, never skimp on tyres and brake pads! Go to Tempe Tyres,

    Almost great advice, except that a fair majority of their products are parallel/grey imports… and therefore if any issue should arise from your tyres, you will not be covered by the manufacturer's guarantee and/or any liabilty insurance they offer!

    Now, the real advantage from going from a good mid-range tyre like Kumho or Hankook to something like Pirelli or Michelin will be in it's noise and comfort levels.
    In the sort of size you'd be talking and on a car like yours there probably wouldn't be much of a discernible difference in the handling between them.
    But also note, in the smaller/cheaper range of these better brands, a lot of them are now made in China. Not that there's anything wrong with this, but you're not really getting the extra quality control you're paying for!

    • Nousernamehere on 03/09/2014 - 13:56

      Now, the real advantage from going from a good mid-range tyre like Kumho or Hankook to something like Pirelli or Michelin will be in it's noise and comfort levels.

      Have to strongly disagree with this. I was running Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE040 as they were OEM on the car, the noise was unbearable (Mazda 3 SP23, so noise levels are always an issue with any tyre..) on rougher roads, so country driving was shocking.

      Then had some RE002's and the same issue, also have had some Yokohama C Drives on there as well, they were downright shocking in the wet, and even gave up grip far too easily in the dry.

      Been running Kumho KU31's for a while now, and the performance of them is amazing for the price. They have lasted much longer than either the Bridgestones or the Yokohama's that I was running previously. For my tyre size (205/50R17) all the 'major' brands are just far too expensive, most wanting close to $300 a corner. That's just ridiculous considering the wear rate they have, and the car isn't a damn sports car! :-P

      • Snoop on 03/09/2014 - 15:59

        Funny you should mention that car… Because I still have a set of OE SP23(C) wheels & RE040s sitting in the garage from my wife's old car! Sorry but it wasn't the tyres fault in this case. Mazda had already admitted that the Mazda 3 had a lot of NVH problems and has subsequently worked quite hard in reducing these levels in the following model 3s!

        The reason that other brands, like the Euros, are so expensive in that size is that it's not a very common size tyre world wide compared to something like a 225/45R17 which come standard on quite a few Euro and Jap models. I imagine that for every 205/50R17 sold, they'd sell at least 10 225/45R17s. Therefore keeping the moulds running longer, less down time and storage costs!

        Nothing against the KU31s, because bang for buck they're not a bad tyre, especially if you're buying the cheaper parallel imports from somewhere like Tempe. But on a more refined car you'll notice that they're a fair bit noisier than the like of Euro made Pirelli, Michelin or Conti. Also for out and out grip under hard driving conditions the RE040 or RE002 will shit on the Kumho! But alas, for the majority of people who own sports models, they will never actually 'drive' them!

        Ps. If you disagree with anything I say, jump on the Mazda 3 forums!

        and the car isn't a damn sports car!

        Well it actually is if you want to compare it to the base model Neo. Hence it having the 2.3L and running the lower profile 17" tyres. If people want cheaper parts, cheaper servicing and cheaper maintenance, then they should consider this at the time of purchase and perhaps buy the cheaper model!

        • Nousernamehere on 03/09/2014 - 18:55

          Mazda had already admitted that the Mazda 3 had a lot of NVH problems and has subsequently worked quite hard in reducing these levels in the following model 3s!

          That's been known since the 'A' series of the 3 was released back in 04. Hence my comment

          (Mazda 3 SP23, so noise levels are always an issue with any tyre..

          My brother owned a 'A' series Mazda 3 Maxx, the road noise on that was shocking. They still haven't seemed to improve it a hell of a lot even in the latest model as it's fine at slower speeds and freeways, you hit a country road and the roar is very loud. The Kumho's are much quieter in this regards than the RE040's or the RE002's, the C-Drives were in between the two.

          so expensive in that size is that it's not a very common size tyre world wide compared to something like a 225/45R17 which come standard on quite a few Euro and Jap models

          A well known point that it's an uncommon size, but still doesn't explain why there's such a massive price difference between the same models of the respective brands (ie. the price difference between the Kumho's 205/50/R17 and 225/45R17 is still much less than he Bridgestone 205/50R17 and 225/45R17) so who's taking people for a ride (no pun intended)?

          Also for out and out grip under hard driving conditions the RE040 or RE002 will shit on the Kumho! But alas, for the majority of people who own sports models, they will never actually 'drive' them!

          I've owned the car since new back in 07 (so coming up 7 years this month) and have done ~120,000km with the car, with both the RE002's, RE040's, C-Drives and KU31's, and the KU31's are the best all round tyre of the lot (I'm including wear rate in this as well). I sure as hell don't take it easy on the car once it's up to temp, and I can tell you the KU31's perform 'better' than any of the other tyres. The C-Drives were just outright dangerous in the wet, even though from all the reviews their wet weather performance was meant to be their party piece.

          Ps. If you disagree with anything I say, jump on the Mazda 3 forums!

          I'm on a few of the Mazda 3 forums, and have been for a number of years. Although admittedly I don't go on them much nowadays.

          If people want cheaper parts, cheaper servicing and cheaper maintenance, then they should consider this at the time of purchase and perhaps buy the cheaper model!

          I'm not someone who 'cheaps out' on maintenance at all, the exact opposite, I go overboard. Since the first tank of fuel from the dealer it has only been run on BP Ultimate, since the 1000km service it has only been run on Mobil 1 Gold 0W-40 with K&N oil filter (not the Ryco filters everywhere seems to use) and yes, with using decent rubber on the tyres as well. But when they're asking nearly $300 a corner for a tyre that barely lasts 20-25,000km's because of how soft a compound it is, using a much cheaper, but overall much better price/performance tyre isn't an issue at all.

          We're not talking Bob Jane All Rounder's here, they are definitely a shocking tyre for any price!

          Don't get me wrong, I do actually agree with most of what you're saying, and if the Bridgestones and the like were $50-$100 cheaper a corner, you'd be crazy to not take them over the Kumho's.. but in this tyre size, they really seem to be trying to gouge the price as a lot of people like to stay with the OEM tyres, or at least the same brand.

          Another problem nowadays as well is the quality of the roads we have, as well as the possibility of punctures that could take out one tyre, and if it's more then say 5,000 or so KM old (depending on the wear) you then have to replace the other tyre on the same axle as well. Doing that with the Bridgestones and you're up for another ~$600 when you'd have just replaced them not long ago. I almost had this problem again few months back when 2 houses up from me I went past where they're building some villa's and straight away heard and felt the usual 'thud thud thud' from my front right tyre. Nice big tek screw lodged in the tyre, luckily it was able to be repaired (was only a few mm's more from the sidewall of not being able to be repaired) and if it'd happened that it couldn't have been repaired, I'd of been up for a couple of new tyres.

          Replacing a few cheaper tyres when that happens isn't anywhere near as painful as it happening to expensive tyres, I had that happen before when I had to replace the stock RE040's with the C-Drives as they place I took it to didn't have the RE040's in stock and I needed to replace both the tyres due to an unrepairable puncture in one.

        • Snoop on 04/09/2014 - 09:41

          @Porthos:
          Yeah, I'm sure you would've been disappointed in the Cdrives compared to the Bstones. Nice tyre if you just want to drive to work and back, but not much of a tyre from an enthusiast’s point of view!

          And I agree thoroughly about OE Bstone pricing. Although after a couple of years when they've made back their initial investment (gouge the price) they usually drop to a more realistic price. (ie. 040s on Mazdas, 050As on Commodores, run flats on BMWs, etc.).

          But the point I was getting at originally with the OP is that you will get better quality in spending more on the better brands… if the better brand is their premium product and manufactured in the company's country of origin. ie. I wouldn't pay any extra for a Michelin that's made in China over say a Jap Toyo, Yoki, etc.! In fact, in most cases the Jap tyre would be better. And I'd probably save even more and grab a decent Korean tyre over the premium Chinese tyre!

          What you have stated in terms of overall value for money is quite valid depending on your requirements. For example, in the size you have the RE040 should cost about $60 more than the Kumho, and yes, probably won't wear as well as it was designed to be a premium performance tyre, and like I said, making the Kumho the better "Bang for Buck"! Another $50 again will get you a Conti SportContact5 which I guarantee you would absolutely love on your car… But at nearly twice the price of a Kumho??? In saying that though, some vehicles, esp Euros, don't respond well to a cheaper tyre. My Mrs old Saab 95 was shocking on anything less than a Pirelli or Michelin… So it's pretty much horses for courses!

  • m0tyrider on 25/08/2014 - 14:14
    +1

    This is ozbargain. Get retreads!

    • m0tyrider on 25/08/2014 - 14:15
      +1

      P.S Serious note; There are lots of good quality tyres around the $150 mark for a 15" Rim. Shop around, do a bit of reading then make a informed decision. Get prices from tyre shops further away then get your local to match/better them.

  • rickxs on 04/09/2014 - 08:14

    RE92's Bridgestone $110 each, I get just on 50,000km 's from them

    edit: if they fit a 175/65R15

  • JimB on 17/09/2014 - 11:26

    I take the safety of family and I seriously.

    Tyres are one thing you should never skimp on, especially has tyres for a Honda Jazz, what 14 or 15inch wheels are rediculously cheap. I've always paid around $200-300 per tyre in larger low profile sizes.

    I've never use a Korean tyre, Japanese or European for me (but Japanese designed tyres made in Thailand is fine)

    Bridgestones are my default choice.

    Goodyear have a buy 3 get one free offer. Take it up, they make good tyres especially the Asymmetrics.

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