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Arlec 2-Head PIR Sensor Security Light (with 2x150W bulbs) - DIY or hard-wire $3.52 @ Bunnings

770

Found these at Bunnings Lidcombe (near CostCo) in Sydney - I bought 4 for Xmas gifts!
They have a short flex and bayonet plug, so you can DIY install into a standard lighting socket.

Even use them for spare parts, or use the bulbs & gaskets then chuck the rest away :-)

Not sure if they are at all Bunnings stores, they were in a big pile on an end in the lighting section. They're probably a run-out because of the 150W bulbs (I think they are now defunct under MEPS, replaced by mandatory lower wattage), but doesn't matter for this price.

Here is the instructions PDF which has the pictures, dimensions etc
http://www.arlec.com.au/wtyFiles/MAL435/MAL435.pdf

The new model at Bunnings is this one, which looks the same and is $29.90
http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_product_light-security-f…

To install you just screw them up onto the surface and plug it into a standard Bayonet socket. Adjust the angles of the heads and PIR, then set the PIR sensor's settings for time, sensitivity, light level, etc.

Alternatively, the flex and plug can be removed and the unit hard-wired by an electrician.

Yeah, they are halogen incandescent lamps and not very energy efficient, but the price is right. Perfect if you need something cheap and cheerful to light up the side passage. Or up the rear passage, if you are that way inclined :-D

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  • Geeeez!! just saw the same item yesterday afternoon at Bunnings (in Melbourne) for $19.98

  • That is worth it just for the bulbs…

  • +14

    You're giving people sensor lights for Christmas? ;)

    "Wow, thanks, you shouldn't have…"

    • +5

      Nothing says "I love you" quite like a Arlec sensor light. :-D

    • OP should expect the crappiest gift next year.

  • +17

    I think you mean "incandescent" bulbs where you say "Yeah, they are halogen and not very energy efficient". I really doubt they are halogen bulbs.

    I had four similar Arlec security lights around my house for about a decade. They work, but have a design flaw: the sensor should NOT be on the end of a stalk. It's possible this model doesn't have that flaw, it isn't obvious from the above photo whether it does or not.

    Having the sensor head on the end of a stalk causes TWO problems:
    - on gusty windy nights, the wind WILL make the head move slightly. This is interpreted as movement, and the lights turn on all night.
    - Even when it wasn't windy, there was a problem. The geckos around my house developed a level of intelligence. All night long, they would sit on the sensor, and bob their head. The sensor moves slightly, the lights turn on, and moths are attracted to the light. Geckos eat the moths and reproduce prodigously. So again, lights on all night.

    In the end I had an electrician disconnect the sensors, and install a separate sensor about a meter away from the lights. And I made sure the separate sensors did NOT have the sensor on a stalk, they were the standard eyeball-style sensor. While the geckos may still be able to activate the sensor by crawling over the front of it, the moths come to the light which is a meter away, not to the sensor. Either the geckoes aren't smart enough to figure out the new system, or they are too lazy to run back and forth between the sensor and the lights, because the lights aren't on all night anymore.

    • +6

      Just remembered something else: if you are installing these under the eaves of a two-storey house, and aren't able to change the bulbs yourself, then throw away the incandescent bulbs that come with the sensor and install some LED bulbs instead. PAR38-shaped LED bulbs are available at Bunnings for about $20 each.

      This isn't so much for the improvement in energy efficiency (although that's nice too), but because the cost of calling in a tradesman to change a blown bulb will far exceed the cost of the LED bulbs, which have a MUCH longer lifespan.

      • +5

        Thanks for the tips Russ! Gosh, intelligent geckos, before long they'll figure out team work - one gecko on the sensor, one gecko on the light…

    • +1

      I really doubt they are halogen bulbs.

      Oops, yeah you are correct. I have edited the OP.

      They work, but have a design flaw: the sensor should NOT be on the end of a stalk. It's possible this model doesn't have that flaw, it isn't obvious from the above photo whether it does or not.

      The sensor on these is on a stalk, yes. There is instructions saying that the sensor must be kept away a certain distance from the lamp heads.

      But movement of the head itself shouldn't trigger a PIR, since they detect changes in heat between elements. They don't really detect "movement" as such. In other words, if you roll a basketball in front of one, and the basketball was the same temperature as the ground surface, then the PIR will not detect it.

      That's the theory anyway, but the bottom line is that these cheapo Chinese sensors are not great for "mission critical" use. You need to wind the sensitivity right down, and aim them down at the ground, not horizontally where they will get false triggering.

    • "I had four similar Arlec security lights around my house for about a decade"

      4 x 300 watts x lights on all night = ouch

      • Ouch x (factor of time there's any movement during the night) = not so much ouch

      • Assuming 10 hours per night at todays prices (without sensor) = $589 per annum so would cost you almost 6 Grand over a decade! ouch!
        http://www.ausgrid.com.au/Common/Ways-to-save/Energy-efficie…

        • -3

          Assuming 10 hours per night at todays prices (without sensor) = $589 per annum so would cost you almost 6 Grand over a decade! ouch!

          Why are you making pointless calculations?

          This light has a sensor, and how are your calculations of running high powered lights constantly for 10 hours a night for 10 years relevant in any way?

        • Because the OP stated "lights on all night". Also you can usually bypass the sensor by turning the power off and on within a certain time period on these sensor lights. Our next door neighbours leave theirs on all night to keep bogeymen away for example.

      • -4

        4 x 300 watts x lights on all night = ouch

        You do realise that they don't draw 300w when the lights aren't on, don't you? Do you even know what a movement sensor is?

        • +1

          Errr …. yes I do realise that. As mentioned above I assume that "lights on all night" means exactly that.

          From Arlec website.
          To override the automatic mode, the light must be switched ON in the “Automatic” mode. Now switch your wall switch OFF and back ON within two seconds. Your Floodlight will now stay on continuously, just like a normal light. This override function can be selected during daytime or night time.
          To return your Floodlight to the “Automatic” mode, switch your wall switch OFF for at least ten seconds, then switch it on again. To switch your Floodlight off completely, switch your wall switch OFF.

        • Thanks, wortho, this has mystified me for a decade

      • 4 x 300 watts x lights on all night = ouch

        Luckily my geckos appear to be somewhat tribal, they'd usually all gather around one sensor and leave the others alone. So it was 300W total draw, or about $1 per night. Also, the geckos aren't around in the cooler months, so it wasn't happening 365 nights per year.

        It took me a long time to figure out why one of my lights was always on all night, and not always the same night. It's a bit difficult to spot a tiny lizard ~12 feet above me, with blinding lights shining directly into my face!

        I did reduce the problem a bit, by turning off all the lights for half an hour when I noticed the geckos were doing their thing. They would usually give up and go back to their normal hunting methods after a while, and apparently not try again that night.

        I put off getting an electrician for ages, because I didn't want to spend hundreds of dollars to have only the sensors fixed. I waited until I needed some other electical work done as well, and I shouldn't have waited that long.

        • Oops, that should have said not always the same light. Sometimes it was the one over the garage doors, sometimes the one for the front yard.

    • Hmm…is that you David Attenborough?? Lol

    • +1

      Cool story bro!

    • +4

      Thanks, I never learned so much about geckos.

  • Thanks OP !

  • I have one of those solar powered security lights with a dead sensor, will it be possible to swap out the sensor in that with this one?

    • Doubt it as the solar one will be low voltage DC and this is 240v AC.

  • Brilliant

  • +2

    Bunnings have a twin pack of led PAR38 bulbs, i think maybe arlec brand for $24. They are as good as the single for $20 ones. The 24W fluoro ones take way too long to warm up for a sensor light.

    I have trouble with these style as my light is on the bottom level on a northern wall, the sensor cover only lasts 18 months or so in the UV, then the cover disintegrates and it goes off for not reason at all. Still good deal, the trick is to have spares.

    • +1

      As you say, CFL are too slow to warm up - and also will die from constant on/off switching anyway

      Great idea re LED par lamps! At 30c per kWh that would save $0.04 per hour per bulb, so if they cost $20 each then it would take 500 hours to pay for itself compared to a 150w.

      Only problem with LED is that it will be impossible to get one with equivalent output. You'd need about 20w of good quality LED to do it, which would be expensive. But that won't matter for most people, as you don't need tons of light in external applications just for orientation

      • +1

        eBay and The Reject Shop have the 60 LED solar powered sensor flood lights that are worth a look.
        The Reject Shop Sunforce version
        The output voltage (std 5m cable) at the plug in bright conditions is 11.2-11.8V (amorphous panel).

        IIRC they use 3.7V NiMh battery and I'd estimate brightness is only ~400 lumens but it's a nice spread of light and illuminates 25 sqm quite well.

        The two eBay versions I have are the 56 LED type. Nicer mount for the solar collector but uses an opaque glass panel at the head. The result is a softer light but still bright enough. I saw 6.3-6.8V in bright conditions (polycrystalline panel). Never had a charging issue in one year of use.

        All have aluminium light bucket/bracket and plastic almost everywhere else. Cables are 5m but I swapped mine for custom length white ones to look better under the eaves. They're all approx 6000K temperature (quite blue-ish).
        I use them in sensor mode only and reckon they're pretty good for $40 each.

    • Thanks for the tip about the LED lamps, got a set.

  • Cheap yes, but damn they're ugly. More suitable for a factory or shed.

  • +1

    Save $20 on buying the fitting, spend $25/yr more than needed on running the 300w of bulbs.
    Ozbargain to a T!

  • Recommended only if you have solar panels installed or zero-point energy.

    • -2

      Recommended only if you have solar panels installed

      You forgot something fundamentally important…

      Solar panels only work when the sun is shining.

      When the sun is shining, these lights are not needed to be able to see.

      And these lights even have a "light sensor" so they automatically switch off when the sun is shining.

      or zero-point energy

      I ordered a Zero-Point energy unit from ebay, and it's expected to arrive from China in a few days time. It only cost me $1.99 delivered, so it's a bargain.

  • +2

    Super cheap but if they're anything like the one I had more than a decade ago (looks the same) the sensor will work for about 12 months. Mine was under an eave, southern side of house, so well-protected. Bulb is/was expensive. Kept mine up for a while as a floodlight after it's failure but disposed of it after a bulb went. There are far better, more reliable hard-wire setups around but at this price you can buy 50 and constantly turn them over - assuming you have no thought for the environment.

  • None at Pakenham VIC :(

  • I paid $30 for one of these a few months ago…

  • None at Port Melbourne

  • none none none

  • Has anyone managed to get any??

  • -1

    Somebody Brogan-ed all the ones at Lidcombe NSW

    • +1

      Brogan, lol.

      Is that Broden the Bogan?

  • Went to Artarmon store but they were selling at $19.95!

  • $19.95 at the Carlingford Bunnings.

  • OK, so I'm thinking of going to a store with an orange piece of paper and a black marker to write a ridiculous price on it just to post on OzBargain.

  • +1

    lol so no one (except the op) actually bought one?

    Seems quite a common theme with Ozbargain….

  • +1

    $19.95 at Bunnings Oxley and Browns Plains

  • lies lies lies

  • LOL for Xmas presents? Damn, you're tightarse! Good deal though.

  • -2

    I bought the last 5 of them today in Lidcombe. Thank you.

  • Any one see any around Mornington Peninsula Bunnings?

  • Just a word of warning, these things are crappy and flimsy. Lasted a few weeks before they shorted out and i had to replace them with a better/stronger/more waterproof design.

  • none that I could find at Mascot

  • Stock present but currently being sold at 19.99 at Bunnings Hoxton Park (No special)

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