Close to previous deal of $41, stock seems decent at JB stores near me.
White Ambience Downlight, adjust between cool and warm white (this is not the colour model).
800 lumens.
Philips Hue Garnea White Ambience Downlight 90mm $42 + Delivery ($0 C&C/ in-Store) @ JB Hi-Fi
490
exceladdict on 07/04/2025 - 09:31 jbhifi.com.au (1806 clicks)
Last edited 07/04/2025 - 09:35 by 1 other user
Last edited 07/04/2025 - 09:35 by 1 other user
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Seems really expensive for a downlight. What am I missing?
Philips Hue (smart lighting eco system) stuff is expensive.
i was gonna say, you can pick up LED at bunnings every day for under $10 each - why pay more for this? so you can control it from your phone?
Besides having an app to control it, it can be integrated to automation and other smarts. It really depends what you need, whether it's just app control or more?
There are many other smart lights out there but Hue seems to be the most reliable in terms of connection, lag etc. I've tried Mirabella, Tuya, YeeLight, Tapo etc.
Try Hyundai Smart downlights. Been using them since over 2 years and can't fault them. Got about 90 of them at approx 15 dollars each for my new home and apart from one that was dead on arrival the rest have been working great. Hyundai just sent me a new one to replace. No lag and can automate and control using the Tuya Smart Life app.
@lovedealz: Thanks for sharing. First time knowing about Hyundai Smart lights. Might be too late for me to switch as I've bought a bunch of Hues in the previous sale.
One thing I'm loving Hue is to a huge support from other integrations. I've recently hooked up Home Assistant to all my smart devices. Hue is the easiest to link and connects to other devices seamlessly. Kodi also has a plugin for Hue that controls the lights (e.g Set all lights in Movie room to off when a movie is playing etc)
@xenoic: +1 for Hue.
Hue works over zigbee so a completely local set up is possible, without needing internet.
for those in qld / nsw affected by ripple issues with dimming and cant be solved with mains filter, its a decent alternative for a 'big name' brand.
If you like playing with home assistant type stuff, it's the best quality you can get - if you don't, it's an expensive waste of money.
Our house is button free, you walk around and lights / fans / aircon zones turn on & dim etc as appropriate based on ambient temps / occupancy / time of day etc - it's fun for me, but absolutely not a 'need' for anyone :P
When is Aldi smart downlights are available again?
Yeah they are good - I regret flashing mine to ESP home though as I managed to kill one and the others seem a bit less stable. I should have left them on Tuya.
Thanks for sharing I'm glad I didn't get around to it, they're definitely stable on tuya/Kogan smart home
Yeah and the Tuya plugin for HA seems to be working well for my other devices on there, just occasional reauthentication.
Been running mine since 2023 on ESPHome with no issues at all.
What kind of issues are you experiencing?One completely died - I am certain I didn't misconfigure it or anything it just stopped being connectable.
One drops off my wifi regularly, it isnt a reception issue as it worked fine in the same spot on Tuya.
Otherwise the rest (5 or so) are fine. I just didn't really need to tinker as much.
Why is it so expensive? Does it last that much longer?
Hue stuff are smart bulbs. They're generally good quality and generally always very expensive.
They’re just smart in comparison to the people who buy them
Because it uses Zigbee (a wireless protocol) and is a Philips Hue product.
I very much prefer to use Zigbee based lights and other products over WiFi ones.
100%. WiFi should be an absolute last resort for this kind of thing. Keep the IoT crap off your WiFi network.
100%. WiFi should be an absolute last resort for this kind of thing
My deco mesh has a dedicated wifi for IOT running at 2.4Ghz and with 30+ wifi devices on the network, it has never skipped the beat.
@IMadeYouReadThis: Sure but now you've got a bunch of insecure devices talking 802.11 on your actual home network which in most cases would have very limited/any segmentation applied.
Sure but now you've got a bunch of insecure devices talking 802.11 on your actual home network
What the issue with that, genuine question as I never had issue so trying to understand.
@IMadeYouReadThis: It's the security implications of them being hacked and then being able to freely access your network to do whatever they want without you knowing.
It's a huge concern in enterprise.
@IMadeYouReadThis: Plenty examples of devices like that being compromised and used as a route into your home network for attackers.
You can mitigate that a couple ways.
If it's wifi but your IoT network blocks it from the internet, it's pretty safe - but it'll need power etc, because wifi devices running on battery are painful.
If it can talk to the internet, but not talk to your other devices - you'll be pretty safe if it's compromised, but now everything has lag because it goes via some servers off in china etc, and if that company goes out of business it becomes a paperweight.
If it doesn't use internet, you own it - nothing can change that it works, or make it cause you any harm.
Zigbee falls into the latter. It's offline, local, and requires no weird third party apps. Best of all worlds security and performance wise. Downside is it can't handle high data volumes - if you've got cameras etc, they'll never be zigbee.
Hue lights work. People who don’t want hacks solutions and/or a divorce are okay to pay a premium.
This. Shit just works. If you got living place with more than one room, a wife, kids, a life, then (smart) lights that do 365 days a year doing what they’re supposed to be doing, and doing it well with regards to light quality output, automation, ecosystem integration, and nil need to tinker .. that pays for itself. Especially when items are on special.
This is actually quite a good price for a premium quality smart downlight. RRP is generally $80
These Philips Zigbee lights have a strange issue: the color temperature reverts to a strong warm white factory setting whenever the electricity is turned off and on. This didn't happen with other non-Philips Zigbee lights I've used.
I can set the colour temperature it reverts back to after a power outage (or turning off at the switch) in the app …. but not sure if there is a difference between zigbee abnd non zigbee lights.
Have you looked at the Power-on behaviour in the app, once set-up, the light will always turn on at the colour temperature set in the power-on behaviour option when the electricity is turned off and on.
When you say "the electricity is turned off" do you mean the power goes out? If yes, then it's not an "issue", it's a setting in the app.
You can choose what happens with each individual light when the power goes out and then comes back on…
"Default", the light will turn on to the "default" scene (warm white at full brightness), regardless if the light was on or off before the power loss.
"Last on", the light will turn on to the last used colour and brightness, even if it was off before the power loss.
"Power loss recovery", the light will turn on or stay off, depending what was its state before the power loss. This is what I use as I don't want all the lights coming back on in the middle of the night if the grid goes down, but I also want the lights that were on to turn back on.
4."Custom", the light will turn back on, but you can choose your own colour and brigtness.
Hope this helps. My whole house inside and out is Hue, running 3 bridges, have multiple Garnea lights and never had issues you described.
How do you go through device detection process if you have 3 bridges so that these devices dont overlap or conflict across bridges?
It asks you to which bridge you're adding.
Great thanks mate, didn't know this.
Wow, best price I've seen in a long while. I bought a bunch at $54 a few years ago.
Own these, and the colour versions too.
Were expensive to buy at the time, plus the bridge, but it was a good decision and a worthy investment.
Coming from other smart downlights like Mirabella Genio and Wiz, this has been a substantial upgrade in terms of consistency, quality and longevity.
Highly recommend with the bridge)Whats a bridge?
Why do i need this for a bulb?
@U30004: Hue lights is BLE or Zigbee based. Unless you don't need remote control (only control when your phone is near the light), you'll need a bridge.
Older Hue lights are Zigbee only so you must have a bridge to control them. It can be Hue bridge, or it can be other Zigbee Coordinators if you have a network already in place. Newer Hue lights have BLE support so you can directly control from the phone, but no remote control at all if not joining a Zigbee network.
@Alx75: Would like a smart downlight that i can control with my phone. Without any of this complicated bridge stuff. Is that too much to ask?
@U30004: The bridge is NOT complicated at all. Once you connect it you can forget it and not touch it ever again. There are very good reasons for the bridge and why the whole Hue system is superior to cheaper options.
The bridge "bridges" the connection between your lights, motion sensors, switches, door sensors etc. so they can communicate seamlessly by creating a local ZigBee mesh.
In a ZigBee mesh every device (e.g. light) is also an “extender”, meaning even the lights that are installed where your WiFi is weak (or doesn’t reach at all) can be controlled if there’s another Hue light nearby. This is very useful if you have dead spots in your home or if you want to have lights way in the back of your back yard.
The bridge also allows you to control your lights when your internet is down, while a lot of cheaper solutions "talk" to the remote server for every light change (turning on/off, dimming, colour changing, literally everything) meaning you need working internet connection.
A local mesh means that you can control your lights (with Hue dimmer switches) even when your Wi-Fi, not just internet, is completely down.
It also saves you from a pain caused by having tens (or hundreds) extra devices on your Wi-Fi network.
The software (app) is far superior to anything else out there with a lot of third party apps that add even more functionality. Native HomeKit, Alexa and Google Home support is a bonus as not everyone wants to mess with Home Assistant or similar solutions that other manufacturers rely on.
All that said, you can use the Hue lights without the bridge, control is via Bluetooth, but it’s limited to 10 lights in a single virtual “room” and you can’t use any automations, custom scenes or accessories like motion sensors. I wouldn't reccomend this.
Yeah I bought the V1 from last JB offer and wished they were V2 instead.
The RGB Akari lights are much brighter than Garina V1 (600lm). I assume these Garnia V2 would be better.
Though to get the max brightness remember to set the colour temperature to 6500K (the natural white). Other colour temperature can't reach the maximum 800lm.
Hue Zigbee are as stable as IKEA ones, way better than my other Tuya gadgets.
How much power do these lights consume?
Its says 60w equivalent, but what is the power draw? 10w?
Up to 7.8W
Slightly higher than usual LED bulbs (because smart!) but way lower than other types of lights.
Whacking the akari (RGB) version on one of my meross energy monitors set to cold white, it pulls 5w at 100% brightness, and 1w at 1% brightness.
We use these lights for our holiday house, setting them on an automated schedule managed by AI. The system controls the lights to mimic human presence for each room.
Although I stay there for only one week each month, our neighbors are convinced we live there full-time.
I open the window just enough for them to see the lights but not inside the house.
What do you use for AI to do it?
just the Philip hue app.
They'll come handy when you're away on holiday :-)
Doesn't need to be away. I like the fireplace mode where the light simulates flames. Kind of warmy to the look.
Dropped to $42 on Amazon as well. https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0DDKLBNY7/
These are great lights, just wish they had more lumens.Agree
Not bright as normal LED down lights
I was thinking of going down the IKEA route, purchasing GU10 holders and getting them wired in to the house.
The IKEA globes seem to score great on flicker and CRI (CRI is the main one for me).Can anyone more knowledgeable than me comment on why they think this is better?
I replaced all my gu10 globes with downlights a few years ago. Very glad i did
Why? What is the benefit?
They're a straight swap in apartments or homes with 90mm downlight cutouts and 2.4m ceilings where the 110° beam angle works acceptably. IKEA Tradfri (40° beam) is a good upgrade for 12V 50W halogens with 36° beam. Just have to decide whether to get a Dirigera hub or Philips Hue bridge. My Tradfri bulbs are a bit flaky compared with other brands I'm running in Hue and HomeKit. I use a Dirigera for pushing out firmware updates so might have to deploy full time for IKEA bulbs and power outlets.
Reason I was leaning toward IKEA is because the Hue sucks ass in the R9 section of the spectrum (which is where LEDs are traditionally weak).
https://www.reddit.com/r/Hue/comments/xz6bj5/a_comparison_of…
Now that you mention it… the early evening adaptive lighting colour change is quite noticeable, which could be caused by the R9 issue.
@sumyungguy: It will affect way more than that. Any red item under that lighting will appear dull and lifeless. As an experiment, just look at a tomato under the lighting, then take it outside and look at it in daylight.
wondering if we can get rid of that power plug and connect the existing wire directly to it?
Are you a licensed electrician? If so, yes. If not, the 'we' in that statement should be an electrician.
No, I'm not. I just wanted to know.
If power plug can't be removed, it will cost more for electrician to install power points in the ceiling, so I can decide whether to replace my existing downlights to these ones or not :-)I'm also curious about this. I doubt I have power points in my ceilings. I wonder how much it would cost with each approach.
@grain-farmer: Depends what year your house was built. After a certain year they all had to have plugs. I got all 40+ downlights converted from transformer to plugs…
@grain-farmer: Probably not in 96, but someone may have done it between then and now. Just pull one light out and check
It is better to spend now to install sockets so that you can replace the lights without a sparky call out.
I think it would be about the same cost. Either your paying an electrician to cut the plug off and directly wire it in, or to install a plug on the existing light line to plug it in.
For ease of changing in future I would go the former.@NigelTufnel: If you’re getting a sparky in, and never intend to use old bulbs with transformers ever again, get them swapped to plugs. Plugs are cheap, electricians are not
@EnergicAU: That's what I meant. Oops. Got my former and latter mixed up.
Definitely get plugs rather than direct wire if you're paying for a sparky.
Alibaba does RCM SAA compliant downlights custom made to your requirements. Can be DALI or Zigbee dimmed.
But are they IC-F / IC-4?
Couldn't find many cheaper that were insulated rated for australia when I was kitting out my place.
Couldn't you have terminated them in a junction box?
you can buy fire rated barriers to put non rated ones in, but that is complicated and ends up spending just as much.
it's the heat not the terminations that are an issue.
Have 40+ of these and they are flawless esp when paired with their own remotes and sensors. Can't beat zigbee for lag vs wifi.
Unfortunately the buyer of my place liked the lights and sensors so much their offer for the house said to include sensors and the lights so I've had to include them in the sale. Accumulated some for the new place at the last jbhifi sale and Amazon sales.
Pricebeat at bunnings
$84 @ bunnings
https://www.bunnings.com.au/philips-hue-down-light-led-800lm…