Aircon Always High Power Use, What Am I Doing Wrong

dufflover on 21/01/2025 - 15:55
Last edited 14/02/2025 - 15:30

Got solar & battery system recently installed with a 5kW inverter (in hindsight should've gone bigger). Like most wanting to use the aircon more for peanuts (vs the feed in), and particularly pre-cooling the upper story for the evening for sleeping.

Despite trying various things running it while it's solar powered, it still seems to want to chew 3+ kWh the whole time it's on, including later in the evening. Means it's pretty easy to have to import power when a high load device is used to exceed the 5kW inverter capacity, and at night drains the battery way too quick as well. I'm setting it to 24 degrees. Tried "Cool", tried "Dry" as I've read online. It has been warm last few days of course (Melb/VIC) but didn't think it was ridiculously hot for this commonly recommended idea to not work. It's a tad annoying given it hasn't been too a humid, and the more basic evaporative system at my old house would do a "good enough" job while using a fraction of the power.

In terms of insulation not sure. Place is a relatively new build ~2020, double-glazing throughout, though we bought it as an existing house. It's two Samsung central aircon units with a central wired controller, one for each storey. Not sure the exact model but figure it's a 3.5kWh aircon system.

Update 14/02: Model is a Samsung Ducted 14.0kWh system (AC140HBHFKH/SA)
https://www.samsung.com/au/support/model/AC140HBHFKH/SA/
I haven't gone up to look at the outdoor unit yet but I reckon it would be same combo as this:
https://shop.ptea.com.au/products/samsung-duct-s-14-0kw-ac14…
- Have also since hosed down the air intake filter.
- On this now cool Melb day ~24 outside I tested it for about an hour, and the second storey was still trying to pull 4kW.

(non)Update 1/02: run into a bit of a busy period with other stuff so haven't had time to poke my head around to check the model or service manholes.

Electrical & Electronics Air Conditioner

Comments

  • hashtagbargain on 21/01/2025 - 16:01
    +1

    Is the turbo mode on?

    • dufflover on 21/01/2025 - 16:28

      No don't think so. Nothing to indicate that on the control panel at least.

    • JIMB0 on 21/01/2025 - 17:16
      +21

      The upstairs is cooling, the downstairs is heating and there's a storm in the middle.

      • HeWhoKnows on 22/01/2025 - 20:42
        -3

        Beautiful.

        Lightning and Thunder or just a Tornado?

        ………………………………………………………………….

        But to answer Op's question, where is your comparison?
        How do you know its high power consumption?

        Its a well known fact that air conditioning consumes lots of power!
        Consuming 3+Kw of power is nothing for an A/C.
        Thats actually very low power consumption.
        And after all it is a 3.5Kw system
        What did you expect????

        Its not a ceiling fan.

        • ely on 23/01/2025 - 17:10

          Generally they don't run at full capacity all the time. Maybe poor insulation or an underpowered system relative to the space it's trying to cool.

    • supersabroso on 21/01/2025 - 21:24
      +1

      It won't be turbo mode, it's pretty common when your air con is undersized and can't cool/heat your house sufficiently. The default panel for most aircons is also dodgy, you just need to use a timer or upgrade to an airtouch system with zoning and individual temperature monitoring for each room. I'm was in the same boat as you and had to do that with my 17.5A (4kW) ducted air conditioner that the builder put in. Just be thankful that you have solar panels otherwise the electricity bill will be $250/month.

  • askbargain on 21/01/2025 - 16:04
    +1

    It’s cold tomorrow, don’t worry

    • dufflover on 21/01/2025 - 16:29

      lol yep. Annoyingly though this installation doesn't seem to have the external air intake done either which I've found handy at my old place to flush in air after a cool change … but one whinge at a time lol

      • Boioioioi on 22/01/2025 - 10:38
        +1

        Could you not open a window

        • beach bum on 22/01/2025 - 12:05
          +1

          Yes, crack a window or three to let the warm air out,
          This will cool your house multiple times faster.
          Then shut the windows closer to the aircon and work your way as it gets cold to that last window.
          This may take a little while but worth it to use aircon efficiently .

          • Hangryuman on 22/01/2025 - 14:32
            +7

            @beach bum: hmm - I don't understand … what kind of modern technology is this 'open a window' - I can't find the app for that … ?

          • Boioioioi on 22/01/2025 - 14:45

            @beach bum: Ohhh I misunderstood. I thought it was a way to use the AC just for ventilation once the weather cools off. I did not realise it was to ventilate whilst also doing climate control.

            • beach bum on 22/01/2025 - 17:32

              @Boioioioi: If you push air into a hot box and mix the hot and cold air it will take a while to eventually cool the room.,
              if you push cold air into a hot room and provide a way for the hot air to escape, it won’t mix , the cold air will drop to the floor and start pushing the hot air up and out any slightly open windows , speeding up the process of cooling the space.

  • Duckie2hh on 21/01/2025 - 16:14
    +5

    Always High Power Use

    please clarify by advising your bill $ or KWH used

    • dufflover on 21/01/2025 - 16:32
      +3

      Using the solar monitoring app it always hangs around 3-3.5kWh house load. And when turning it off it drops by an obvious 3kWh give or take.

      • Duckie2hh on 21/01/2025 - 16:53
        +1

        Isn't this equivalent to $0.9/hour (give or take depending on your electricity rate)?

        • iDroid on 21/01/2025 - 18:05
          +1

          At my current rate that'd be about $1.60 an hour.

        • klaw81 on 22/01/2025 - 09:39
          +31

          You're correct, but you could be nicer about it.

          Do you really think your descriptions will help somebody who doesn't understand how electricity is measured? The "area under a curve" is particularly non-intuitive for non-scientific people. Something like this is far better as an explanation:

          Imagine turning on a garden hose, and filling up a bucket.

          Power is the flow rate of the water - how much water is passing through the hose.
          Flow rate in the hose is measured in litres per second. Electricity "flow rate" used by an appliance is measured in watts(W) or kilowatts (kW). 1000W = 1 kW

          Energy is how much water ends up in the bucket after a period of time.
          The bucket's contents will be measured in litres. The amount of energy consumed by an appliance is measured in watt-hours (Wh) or kilowatt-hours (kWh).

          1 kWh means using 1 kW of power for 1 hour, or 0.5 kW for 2 hours, or 2 kW for 0.5 hours.

          • Hangryuman on 22/01/2025 - 14:35
            +1

            @klaw81: or Power is the rate of usage of electricity (kilowatt kW)

            Energy is the amount of electricity used over time (kilowatt-hours kWh)

            • klaw81 on 22/01/2025 - 15:14
              +1

              @Hangryuman: Sure, that works.

              I like using the movement of water as an analogy for electricity because we've all played with hoses since childhood and can understand the mechanics fairly well. It helps people build a little picture in their heads, which I find tends to stick with people.

              You can also use water in a hose to help explain the concepts of voltage, current and resistance, and water in a tank to explain concepts relating to battery capacity.

              Obviously the analogies break down as you get more technical, but it's helpful for a basic level of understanding.

        • us3rnam3tak3n on 22/01/2025 - 10:33
          +1

          At least it's a fair indicator of how well versed the person you're speaking with is on the subject.

          • LFO on 22/01/2025 - 12:09
            -1

            @us3rnam3tak3n: Actually the subject is money, co$t.

            If it is kW or kWh or Kw or KwH or Kwatts/hour or watts per hour or litres or degrees is kinda irrelevant.

            OP questions co$t

        • ramb9 on 22/01/2025 - 12:36

          username checks out - doctors aren't always the nicest people

        • figarow on 22/01/2025 - 14:37

          PLEASE REPEAT AFTER ME:

          The boomer is strong with this one 😄

          • Meconium on 23/01/2025 - 09:35

            @figarow: Sounds 👏 more 👏 like 👏 an 👏 entitled 👏 kid

          • Oxxy on 23/01/2025 - 13:37

            @figarow: Because the reply is rude, they are a boomer?

            My dad is in his 80's, and one of the most brilliant people I've ever met. He may even be on the other side of boomer? Either way hes equally patient and knowledgeable. This isnt a reason to disregard someone's input.

            Being rude is though, sure.

  • brad1-8tsi on 21/01/2025 - 16:15
    +4

    My Daikin 3.5kW unit set at 24c on cool pulls 900 watts once it's brought the 40sqm room down to temperature.

    The Daikin 5kW double head unit on the 2nd floor is similar once the 16 sqm room is cooled. I can run both and still not import power.

  • geekcohen on 21/01/2025 - 16:18
    +1

    Got solar & battery system recently installed with a 5kW inverter

    Define recently? How recent are we talking? Last week or 6 months ago?

    • dufflover on 21/01/2025 - 16:34

      Pretty recent like a month ago, including the time for them to do meter config and other stuff.

      • geekcohen on 21/01/2025 - 16:40
        +4

        Give it a bit longer and watch your patterns. I've had solar (no battery) for 4 years now and it took me a good couple to get into a routine of doing things only when the sun is shining and generating. Like washing, dishwasher, dryer and other high usage items only during the day when sun is generating.

        Having appliances with timers is a huge help. Like today, I packed the dishwasher at 6am and set it for 3 hours, so it would start when the sun was shining and would be generating enough for the house + dishwasher.

        • brad1-8tsi on 22/01/2025 - 08:47
          +2

          We did the same thing when we had solar-only but once you add a battery you don't need to worry about timings unless the battery is very small.

  • geekcohen on 21/01/2025 - 16:22
    +2

    Aircon Always High Power Use, What Am I Doing Wrong

    I have a 6.6kw system with 5kw inverter. I am in Eastern VIC and currently generating 3.62kw and buying in 2.5kw (total 6.12kw). That is my entire house plus 2 split systems and 2 portable arlec aircons.

    My "cold" usage, like overnight, is about 1.8kw. So if you do 6.12kw minus 1.8kw cold usage, thats 4.32kw to run my air conditioners and maybe an extra TV since my wife is home.

    My view is, its hot and I don't want to be hot, so if it costs me extra to be cool, I will pay it. I've had hot summers the last few years and bought the portable aircons this year, been the most comfortable I have been ever. Even with solar one hot day last week my house cost $16.33 to run (which is about 62.3kw)

    • mskeggs on 21/01/2025 - 17:30
      +7

      I was sitting here thinking, wow, 6.12kWh per day is low for all those aircons, must have amazing insulation.
      Then realized you meant per hour!

      62kWh per day is about three times the average house.

      • geekcohen on 22/01/2025 - 05:45
        +1

        Yes, I know. My minimum daily usage on a good day with good solar generation without any aircon/heater is about 25kWh to 30kWh for the day. Between about 6 computers, networking equipment, 2 Fridge/Freezers, heating/filtering equipment for animals and then other bits, it can quickly add up.

  • Flipfeet on 21/01/2025 - 16:23

    We use the night mode all the time - quieter and lower power (and yes, longer to cool if hot but we don't let it get there).

    • bmxr on 21/01/2025 - 16:39

      Agree, ours are always on night mode and/or silent mode and about 23/23.5C.

  • AustriaBargain on 21/01/2025 - 16:27
    +1

    You can probably go up to 26 degrees. Though at night even 24 should be kicking on and off instead of constantly on, you in Queensland did you say?

    Also aircons usually list their cooling output, like your cooling output may be 3000kw on a mini split but the energy input will be like 1300kw. The heat pump gives you a lot more output cooling energy than input electric energy. So it's not using 3000kwh it's using 1300kwh, or whatever.

    • dufflover on 21/01/2025 - 16:36

      nah VIC. The big external units are on a ledge on the upper storey so not easy to check the model exactly. But yeah it's on my list to find out regardless.

      But the power usage figures are usage figures from the solar app, not based on the rating or AC panel or anything like that.

      • AustriaBargain on 21/01/2025 - 21:15
        +1

        And if they are reverse cycle then use them for heating in winter too, don't use normal electric heaters. The government isn't subsidising these things because they look cool on the wall, they save a lot of energy.

        • jjjaar on 21/01/2025 - 22:52
          +2

          People think they look cool on the wall?

        • CommuterPolluter on 23/01/2025 - 18:43

          Aren’t the subsidies for decommissioning gas fired central heating? Resistive heating is also more targeted so can be effective in some instances. For example, it’s probably more energy efficient for OP to have 1 heater under his desk than to have his entire house blasted with RC heating.

  • LVlahov on 21/01/2025 - 16:27
    +6

    "Not sure the exact model but figure it's a 3.5kWh aircon system" I am not sure this is a safe assumption. Couldn't you find the model number written on it somewhere or provide a photo of the unit outside?

    • dufflover on 21/01/2025 - 16:39

      The big external units are on a ledge on the upper storey so not easy to check the model exactly. But yeah it's on my list to find out regardless.

      It's a model where the central wall controllers like this:
      https://www.samsung.com/au/support/model/MWR-WE13N/?srsltid=… half of the features aren't installed on mine it seems lol.

      • LVlahov on 21/01/2025 - 16:48
        +1

        Jeez look at the reviews on that thing..!

        Was trying to work out what kind of system it attaches too - e.g. multi outlet central system, multi head split, multi split systems and looks like it can do the lot so still not really sure ;)

    • bp2000 on 23/01/2025 - 10:17
      +1

      It's likely at least a 10kW unit and probably larger cause they rate the unit in thermal power not electrical input power. See https://www.ozaironline.com.au/products/daikin-ducted-invert… as an example specification.

      There is really not enough information and OP has to investigate. The critical thing I'd be establishing is is it an inverter model, cause they can run at low power settings. If not then it is going to consistently draw the same power regardless of the setting when it is running the compressor. It will only drop in average if it is stopping and starting across the hour as it hits the temperature set point.

      In either case, you need to work out where the temperature indicator is. If you're not cooling the room where the temperature indicator is it will just keep running which may be your problem. If you measure the temperature at the sensor location and it is too low then you may just have a calibration problem. In which case I'd just offset the temperature. But then again I'd just set it to whatever is comfortable. Too hot drop the temp, too cold increase it and not care about the actual number.

      I think pre cooling bedrooms is going to be tough to expect the air conditioner to not draw full power. You are asking it to drop the temperature from a high to low. It won't gently ramp there I expect as you seem to want it will just go full guts until it gets close to a couple of degrees and then it may cut back if it is an inverter model.

      You'd probably find it better to cool the bedrooms all day cause it will go softer over a longer period of time.

  • freefall101 on 21/01/2025 - 16:37
    +6

    Has it ever been cleaned?

    • LVlahov on 21/01/2025 - 16:44
      +3

      Second this as making big difference. I haven't checked the energy draw but I can hear and feel the difference when we've let the filter in ours go uncleaned for a while. Cooling output basically halves when we've really let it go, which would obviously cause it to labour at max draw for longer.

      • dufflover on 21/01/2025 - 19:49
        +1

        No that part we didn't do as part of the big moving in clean. I'll look into seeing how much it is to get that done then!

        • Summoner on 21/01/2025 - 22:08
          +1

          The only thing that you need to clean is the filter. It's an easy DIY work even with the ducted unit.

          If you have trouble figuring out how to do it, and if the unit hadn't been serviced in a while, call an aircon technition to have your unit serviced. Filter cleaning is part of servicing an aircon anyway. Just watch how its done by the technition.

        • Naigrabzo on 22/01/2025 - 12:35

          Dude just replace it with new filters or at least wash out the old filter.. It will make a huge difference.

    • geek001 on 21/01/2025 - 17:14
      +2

      Third this. I pulled out and cleaned my aircon filter and the aircon performance improved dramatically.

    • iCandy on 22/01/2025 - 07:48
      +1

      Good call. My AC was leaking out of the air vents only (onto my laminate floor and wooden furniture). It gets deep cleaned once a year and I clean the air filters regularly. I had only been using it for about 6 weeks since the last deep clean in June and this happened. Turns out I had a little ant nest happening in the drainage system. Thus reminded me I had seen dead ants under the air vents on the floor but, as I’ve been having non stop issues with them in the nearby kitchen, didn’t connect the 2 for a while. AC now working well and as cheap as possible on 24 and Dry.

  • Protractor on 21/01/2025 - 16:40
    +4

    Is your house designed like a solar passive home or a typical Aissie hot box with western glass surfaces,and unprotected walls (from direct afternoon sun, poor /no insulation etc.

    What are your main construction materials?
    How long do you run the aircon pre sleep? All day,noon on,4pm on? Non stop?

    • jjjaar on 21/01/2025 - 22:53
      +4

      Ahhh the Aussie dream of no insulation. What a farce.

  • geekcohen on 21/01/2025 - 16:41

    OP, do you also have a PowerPal or similar power monitor? That is also helpful in collecting/seeing data.

  • arescarti42 on 21/01/2025 - 16:47
    +1

    How big is the house? Much direct sunlight get through the windows? If huge, then you're just going to use a lot of energy to cool it

    You could try turning the AC on in the morning before it gets hot so the system isn't running hard trying to catch up.

  • netjock on 21/01/2025 - 16:52
    +2

    Yours is not a 3.5Kw system. My 3.2kw cooling Hisense only does 0.8Kw per hour (per the label).

    I suspect you might have a 10kw air conditioner. You could generally check the indoor unit (because your outdoor unit has to meet the output of the indoor unit).

    • JimCarter on 22/01/2025 - 05:25

      800w for the whole hour of usage? You must be mistaken.

      • us3rnam3tak3n on 22/01/2025 - 11:14
        +1

        Seems a little off. I have 5kW and 2.5kW (cooling output) Hisense units. They use up to 2.1kW and 850W of electricity respectively (slightly more in heating mode), so netjock's ought to be somewhere in between unless there's a much more efficient model now.

        • netjock on 22/01/2025 - 15:15
          +2

          It is a little bit off because your AEER / COP is different. For some reason the efficiency doesn't scale. So a 5kw doesn't use 2x power of a 2.5kw it uses MORE!

          Use this link and put your model numbers in https://reg.energyrating.gov.au/comparator/product_types/

          For cooling

          2.5kw input is 0.52kw HISENSE HAWV9KR
          3.5kw input is 0.81kw HISENSE HAWV12KR
          5kw input is 1.23kw HISENSE HAWV18KR

          • jjjaar on 23/01/2025 - 13:28
            +1

            @netjock: You’re spot on. Some units are extremely efficient these days. Our 2.5kw MHI split uses only 0.44kw.

            We had two of those and a 5kw unit (uses 1.24kw) running pretty much all day in 40° Melb weather and our entire house only used 13.5kWh in that 24 hour period. Pretty sure we also ran the dishwasher, did a few loads of clothes and used the air fryer for dinner.

            We have no insulation in our walls or underfloor so this really shows the efficiency of the units.

            • knasty on 23/01/2025 - 15:44
              +1

              @jjjaar: Yes it's certainly the case that bigger is not always better. Pretty much all split systems COP/efficiency drops the larger the unit, so whilst you don;t want to undersize it you also don't want to oversize it either. I also have 2x MHIs and the COP of ~7 is extremely impressive - perfect for a bedroom or other small room.

            • netjock on 24/01/2025 - 20:10

              @jjjaar: Think I checked that website before I bought mine like 3 years ago.

              There are some with atrocious efficiency numbers.

      • netjock on 22/01/2025 - 15:05
        +1

        0.81kws per hour is what is on the energy label.

        Don't think it is much more than that.

  • ValueBob on 21/01/2025 - 17:00
    +2

    If your target use-case is to operate within the solar-panel-inverter's capacity limits, then the air-con is simply too big and using too much power.
    Better to have 2 smaller air-con (single head, spilt system) than one big one; smaller ones tend to be more efficient as well.
    I have the same scenario; and selected air-con models with <10A running current (<2.4kW power consumption; typically, this would models with 6 to 7 kW cooling capacity).

    • dufflover on 21/01/2025 - 19:54

      That was the other end goal of this question too. Either I operate it in a way where it goes to "maintenance levels" of power use (which as per question I can't seem to do) … or if there's a way to operate these things with like a wattage cap so even if it's not as effective I can get some benefit within the limits of my solar and the battery capacity at night.

  • JIMB0 on 21/01/2025 - 17:13
    +1

    If the consumption drops to a reasonable level at night then you have an issue with thermal loading. To solve this you'll need to check your insulation and add shade to East/West facing windows.

  • MS Paint on 21/01/2025 - 17:20
    -5

    Turn it on and leave it on. Letting the house get hot and trying to cool it down is expensive. Maintaining a stable temperature eg 25°c is cheaper.

  • amityaaron on 21/01/2025 - 17:22
    +7

    i have an issue with my aircon where it always runs at high power due to the temp sensor being upstairs in a hallway thats always hot.
    So my system never reaches the designated temp and continuously consumes power.

    Just something to consider.

  • JimmyF on 21/01/2025 - 18:30
    +4

    seems to want to chew 3+ kWh the whole time it's on

    It will chew power until at temp.

    It's two Samsung central aircon units with a central wired controller, one for each storey. Not sure the exact model but figure it's a 3.5kWh aircon system.

    Oh central units, yeah that is what they do. Central AC are biggest con jobs for power usage. They always run near flat out. Haven't seen a happy central AC user yet.

    • dufflover on 21/01/2025 - 19:57

      They seem to be the new norm for places too, not individual room splits. Which would definitely be handle in the night situation.

      • JimmyF on 21/01/2025 - 21:38

        Just because they are the new norm, doesn't mean they are good!

        Central units are well know to chew well over 50kWh a day if left running!

        • bluemagicwind on 22/01/2025 - 10:43
          +1

          I've 16kw ducted aircon and it chews 9kw per hr. and for the whole day it chews 78kw

          • muzzamo on 22/01/2025 - 12:32
            -2

            @bluemagicwind: it chews 9 kW , not 9 kW per hour.

            For the whole day it chews 79 kWh.

          • JimmyF on 22/01/2025 - 17:18
            +1

            @bluemagicwind:

            and for the whole day it chews 78kw

            I believe 78 is well over 50, so yours is on point for what I said.

            Not uncommon to hear them use 80kwh/day for sure!

  • BartholemewH on 21/01/2025 - 18:56
    +1

    Two ducted units totalling 3.5kw? What are these, ducted systems for ants?

    Last two ducted systems I had experience with were 14.5 and 17 kw on four bedroom houses.

    • dufflover on 21/01/2025 - 19:52
      +1

      Nah I meant 3.5kW each, but as the other comments have since said it's probably not a worthwhile estimate to base that on the power use I'm seeing.

  • areustillpretty on 21/01/2025 - 19:01

    Is it central ducted refrigerated system? I don't think 3.5kw standalone reverse cycle system would draw that much. I have two 7kw reverse cycle splits (one upstairs, one downstairs), when both are in use they rare draw more than 4kwh.

  • vinniesydney on 21/01/2025 - 19:39

    clean the filter, close the windows

  • Summoner on 21/01/2025 - 20:39
    +4

    You will have to find out if your aircon is an inverter aircon or not.

    If your unit is an inverter aircon, once your house hits the desired temperature, it will constantly consume less power to keep your home at set temp most of the time.

    If your air on is non-inverter aircon, it will constantly turn on and off throught the day running at full capcity when cooling.

  • gentlekoala5906 on 21/01/2025 - 21:56
    +5

    Dude you have it ez. I have a 23kW system which pulls 6-7 kWh and I get absolutely shafted. My quarterly winter bill was $1200 last year.

  • zathras on 21/01/2025 - 22:02
    +4

    How professional were the aircon installers?

    Are you sure they connected all the ducts together correctly?

    Could be blowing a lot of cold air into the roof space if the installers screwed up somehow.

  • ThirdRonnie on 21/01/2025 - 22:30
    1. Portable aircons are not very efficient.
    2. You need to seal the upstairs and downstairs off from each other (not easy to do in most houses) A door at the top of your stairs is the best way. Otherwise, the air that is cooled by the unit just heads on down the stairs (cool air sinks) whilst the air being heated down below comes upstairs to be with you (hot air rises).
    • jjjaar on 21/01/2025 - 22:56
      +1

      A door at the top of your stairs is the best way

      A curtain on a tension rod is a great quick and cheap solution too!

  • tongu on 22/01/2025 - 00:18
    +2

    Try reducing the fan speed. Higher fan speeds uses more energy because it's producing cold air at a higher rate and churns through more energy.

  • Oz em on 22/01/2025 - 00:34
    +1

    I don’t use the ac a lot.
    I set the timer so it turns off after 1 hour and I’ve had the fan speed on low.
    I just got a 12kw system and 1.95kw is the highest usage I can see on my bill for 1 hour.
    Most days are 5kw.
    I have solar but no battery.

  • Lucille Bluth on 22/01/2025 - 00:37
    +1

    My evap cooling system single story, 4br draws 1.5kw/h per day these last 3 days in Melb on max. I run it from morning to before sun goes down.

    10kw system w/ 10kw inverter

  • avoidfullprice on 22/01/2025 - 06:10

    My Daikin centralised reverse AC with an inverter takes in varying amount of power depending on the outside vs inside temperature. If you set your temp higher at 25C or 26C does it still run flat out ? It might just be design of your AC instead of your house.

    Also people, kW is unit of power ( like km/h for car speed) and kWh is unit of energy ( like km for traveled distance). Saying kW/h per day or AC running at kWh doesn’t mean what you think

  • brad1-8tsi on 22/01/2025 - 08:49

    You fail to mention the size and brand of battery or brand of inverter or inverter type. This information would be helpful.

  • Mulgabill on 22/01/2025 - 09:28

    I Have 3 phase so may be different but basically I set mine to 25 degrees and I have "cool auto". "Cool" lowers the temperature and does not stop and churns through the power, "cool auto" stops at the thermostat temp.

  • Purp on 22/01/2025 - 10:33
    -6

    Solar is a scam

    • JIMB0 on 22/01/2025 - 10:46
      +6

      Profile picture checks out.

    • 2025 on 22/01/2025 - 17:03
      +6

      Ok mine paid for itself in 4 years, free to run AC all day, scam me harder please daddy purp it feels good.

      • surg3on on 23/01/2025 - 12:36

        Same here. Best payback investment I've ever made.

    • klaw81 on 22/01/2025 - 17:47
      +1

      I would ask what your reasoning was, but a quick review of your post history suggests reasoning isn't your strong suit.

      • Purp on 23/01/2025 - 12:20
        -3

        You seem mentally stable(/s) to get upset from one post and feel the need to stalk peoples post history, you must spend a lot of time on reddit. Explains it.

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