Not a bad price for 5W-40 and with free shipping for Supercheap Auto members. Fits the specs of some popular European cars.
BMW Longlife-01
MB-Approval 229.3, 226.5, 229.5
Porsche A40
Renault RN 0700 / RN 0710
VW 502 00 / 505 00
Features:
Any oil that meets the manufacturers spec would be equally fine in your vehicles. It's all just marketing feel goods.
Fine yes, equally no. There is a degree of effort put into oil technology, your standard gulf western isn't in the same tier as Royal Purple or Penrite. But yes, provided it fits under manufacturer spec its sweet however I disagree that its all just marketing feel goods, you may just not take your vehicle to the point where these things don't matter like track work, which is fine. Just my personal recommendation as someone that plays with cars a fair bit.
There is a degree of effort put into oil technology, your standard gulf western isn't in the same tier as Royal Purple or Penrite.
Like what? Any specifics?
I disagree that its all just marketing feel goods,
Just my personal recommendation as someone that plays with cars a fair bit.
So what issues have you personally experienced with other oils? Can you share the oil analysis tests and comparisons you've completed?
@howcan: I said I play with cars a fair bit and you have some how formed the assumption that I have oil analysis tests and comparisons?
I know you are going into this for an argument but you aren't getting it. This is a personal recommendation from someone that has 4 different brands of vehicle that also goes for track days. Take from that what you will.
I suggest next time if this is the part of argument you wish to go down, provide evidence for your own claims, to save you looking silly when you demand unrealistic data from an individual lmfao(pro tip, you can find oil analaysis information online quite easily, from companies that have the equipment to actually do what you are asking. To request this from an individual is beyond stupidity.
@doobey1231: I think he may have meant that he was wondering if you have had your oil tested. Ive known of people doing it on 4wd even to see how their engine is. It can have indicators of engine wear and I would imagine different oils perform differently.
@Spendmore: Hopefully you are right, I do have my oil tested and that was part of the reason that had me use castrol edge over everything else I had used in the past. But I have no personal data or analysis sets to present as proof of my opinion cause it wasn't really for the purpose of proving a point, more just a case of "well this seems to perform the best", I never did it with the idea of "X brand vs X brand".
@Spendmore: Personally I used a specific oil that is high in calcium as that is the detergent my engine is designed for, whereas most newer oils are magnesium based. This was reflected in Nulon oil analysis ($35) tests after making the change
Like what? Any specifics?
Many, and I'd be happy to help explain, but before we dive into it, can I just ask 3 things:
@howcan: Anyone, pls share what specific-criteria from 'used-oil-analysis' users can gain. Even better, post a link to support your understandings & experience. The aim is knowledge-sharing.
Imo, useD-oil should be able to handle COLD-morning starts: 5°C or lower & NO overnight-use…engine shouldn't be much-louder.
Initial 1st few minutes gentle-drive: the moving-parts in your engine should move relatively-freely, ie you can feel little-resistance & relatively-smoothness.
Gulf Western 5w-30 failed the above test: could be their thicker-viscosity in the 5W-30-range, &/or more of group I & II base-oil etc ? I also DIS-like their sludgier-feel & look (drained-oil test) when compare to say Castrol Magnatec Stop-Start 5W-30 with similar used-mileage.
For the A-B drivers, stick to a PREMIUM-brand oil: when on-special is likely to price-match budget-brand oil…why cheap-out ?
https://www.ozbargain.com.au/search/node/5w-30%20%20oil%20ty…
@ab c: Viscosity of budget-brand oil: observe how quickly their viscosity degrade relatively to premium-branded…I wonder why ?
your standard gulf western isn't in the same tier as Royal Purple or Penrite.
If an oil meets VW 502.00/505.00 or ACEA A3/B4 then why is the Royal Purple version better than Gulf Western or even the SCA house brand?
@brad1-8tsi: Did you just ignore several comments after that comment to ask the question that was already answered? strike two mate.
@doobey1231: No, didn't ignore the comments. I read those comments and laughed at the lack of science behind them. All you write is opinion with no basis in fact.
I'll ask again.
If a cheaper oil meets >insert oil specification here< then how is it different to an expensive oil?
@brad1-8tsi: There are horses for courses. If you do the occasional track day or beat on your car like you are at a roll race, drag, or circuit, you need to consider how long you are exposing the oil to the conditions. Race oil is designed for short interval changes (one or two weekends of whatever). They have far less detergent content and typically far higher ZDDP. The former is because you aren’t accumulating deposits due to race conditions and oil drop intervals; the latter is higher because race cars usually don’t have or don’t care about replacing clogged catalytic converters. ZDDP in the maxed amounts found in race oil means that race oil is not a cat person. Oil can meet manufacturer specs, but there is science behind every formula on what should be used when under what circumstances. If someone isn't familiar with the very intricate clearances inside an engine, then they should stick to a generic oil that meets manufacturer specs.
I have a race car, I use 0-60 Supercar oil, this oil "technically" meets the manufacturer specs of my engine (LL01), but someone who isn't racing, or is not running 35 PSI of boost like I am should stick to whatever their mechanic recommends.
Oil selection is important but not rocket science. Debates on mysterious oil ratings often end up a discussion akin to superstitious belief. This can be easily dispelled through simple education.
Agree it works great in Euro. Check if it’s not advised to use the Castrol Edge LL for certain newer euros however.
Hi OP you should also add API SP & ACEA A3/B4 on the list of product performance claims, that could allow more vehicles to use this oil.
Why should he do this? Where does this oil claim to meet API SP?
should probably is wrong word to use i guess, it's his post, what i just wanted to really say is that he could also include the API SP and ACEA A3/B4, which can be found on the Castrol Technical Data sheet from the castrol website of this product in question.
0W-20 or 5W-30 for a Volvo XC90 T6??
Officially it's 0W-20 but is it really going to make a difference? - In Melbourne if that matters.
What weights does your manual suggest?
0W-20, but i do not drive in snow, and it gets to 40deg here maybe 3-4 days a year
If it suggests 0w20 then I'd personally use that for a few reasons.
First and more importantly that's what your manual suggests. Secondly it's getting colder so you want a lower first number to ensure good cold start protection. Finally if you are going to do a lot of prolonged driving (or if you're losing oil between changes) you could aim for the second number to be higher but it may eat into your fuel usage and so increase costs… So probably better to stick to 20 for the warm temp number
Probably wanna buy a good quality full synth if you are doing a lot of stop start driving too.
How many kilometers is on your engine now?
I'd probably worry more about ignoring your manufacturer oil change intervals of 20k and changing whichever oil you choose to use at a more reasonable interval such as 10k. Newer engines do seem to have tighter tolerances though so maybe stick with the weights they recommend.
Gasoline 9 / months or 10K whatever comes first.
Diesel 9 / months of 13K whatever comes first.
Your T6 9 / months or 10K whatever comes first, unless you are planning to offload the car @ 100K
Oil changes are the best insurance againist premature engine failure. ICE don't heal themselves and wear is not reversable.
I'd apply this to pretty much every low duty ICE sold today
Full Syn oil @ $10/L x 5 plus a $20 oil filter + a 5c washer, thats a $70 parts. Zero labour if you do it yourself ;-)
What year?
Some of the earlier VEA engines have piston ring issues. What was 5W30 became 0W20 for some years/engines. There was a reason for this.
In any case, stick with the offical recommendation. 0W20. No-one knows your engine better than the OEM.
And make you get the correct spec, which I think is: Volvo VCC RBS0-2AE, which is basically Volvo's spec for ACEA C5. Confirm this yourself, I'm going from memory.
Edit: This is oil is not suitable, wrong spec and wrong weight. So many people just compare oils on weight thinking the same weight between spec's is the same oil. Spec's play a massive part, ACEA, API, etc if you get that wrong you got the wrong level of protection. The ad-pack is critical to the running and protection of the engine.
Thanks for all the advice. It's 2016 (new shape) going on 96000kms. I've only had it for around 10k (one year) and will be servicing it in the next few weeks (a little shy of a year).
Yes they did in fact revise the spec to 0W-20.
Noticably when I bought this car there was an amount of sludge in the filter at the first service, so I wonder if the prior owner ran some shite through it. Servicing prior to me was a little shoddy.
Nonetheless I was hoping to score this as an emergency DIY oil change or top up - but now will think otherwise.
Thanks again!
Sludge usually develops as a result of delayed oil changes, not by running the incorrect spec (but that certainly would not help).
I'm hoping the sludge is just oxidised oil and not an unlimited source of anti-seize (which is a joke btw, that would be catastrophic, i.e oil mixed with metal). Basically you want oil in the engine and not the engine in your oil..
I think most of the piston ring issues were addressed for the 2017 built cars. Some more reading: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/MC-10231933-9999.pdf
Most local mechanics use whatever grade they have in stock and which may be not the best option. Dealers will use the correct grade as determined by the OEM.
This is why I've always supplied my own oil (only some allow this), but these days I do oil changes myself.
Do your service with the correct grade/spec and monitor oil levels. If you noticed it consuming oil as per the PDF then you might have internal wear. Wear creates metal particles which further wear the ICE.
@mrhugo: Wow. thanks for that PDF - As a S/H owner I won't be getting any mail from Volvo - and the 8 years is about to come up. Do you know if this would apply to AU as opposed to US per that notice?
Apart from the sludge found when serviced when I got the car, only just now, in the last week has an intermittent 'oil pressure low' warning come on for a few seconds, and then disappeared on the dash. This has alarmed me as it's happened a good few times now (maybe 7-10), either turning sharply or braking sharply, but always disappeared. Otherwise oil level is fine when checked at rest, and no leaks are apparent that I can see.
Nonetheless, I'll be servicing it very soon and see what comes up.
@Thiefsie: Nothing applies in Australia. IMO Australia have one of the worst consumer protections for cars.
You would be lucky to get the time of day from Volvo or any car company outside of warranty here in Australia. Some people can fight for a solution, but that’s a struggle. Google Land Rover, VW, Toyota DPF, its s**t show.
Low oil pressure yet levels are high/normal. I can tell you more, but the prognosis isn’t great, so I can tell you more if you want to know more.
@mrhugo: May as well give me all the bad news - ignoring it isn't going to make it go away! I'm not super technical but I can turn a wrench so I can get under the car to do the basics and so on.
@Thiefsie: Best to take an oil level reading on a flat surface in the morning or after the car has been sitting for some time. That way you know the sump/pan is as high as its going to get.
Take the dip stick out once and see the level. When you start taking the dipstick in and out oil can smudge on the tube and it might make it hard for you to see the actual level.
The oil pickup (basically a tube with a mesh metal filter) sits in the sump, it's much lower than the lowest point of the dipstick. As the engine runs, the engine is driving an oil pump which pumps oil to the top of the engine and other places. The oil pump builds pressure. If the pump is pumping air (because the oil level is too low) then you get a low engine oil/pressure warning. If the engine is losing oil pressure, then there might be a leak somewhere. There are sensor and sensors can fail or calibration can jump out, but you would think these would trigger warning always.
Oil pumps usually don't fail (unless they have ingested a lot of metallic material). So where else is pressure lost, internal damage, piston rings, compression rings and wipers. This would show up as oil consumption…how much, depends on how bad. Some oil loss is accepted and the rate of loss is dependent on what the manufacturer sets for the engine (usually more than it should be to avoid replacing engine….Subaru has joined the chat)
Anyway, you shouldn't be losing pressure. You mentioned cornering. You would need to be pulling insane G's for the oil in the sump to shift whereby the oil pickup was sucking in air. This isn't going to happen unless your oil was already low.
I'd check your oil level; do you service if one is due and monitor oil usage.
If you really wanted to take it next level you could take a sample of the engine oil for testing. That way you would be able to see what’s in your oils. Different metals are used in different places, so if one reading was crazy high, you might be able to see if you have internal wear. I have no idea who does testing these days it was usually about $40 back in the day.
Wonder why this does not fit my Lexus RX 2008. Manual says 5w-30 and my understanding is that 5w-40 is more suited on older engines.
Because it doesn't meet the manufacturer spec for your vehicle. Should not deviate oil grades from manufacturer spec unless there is a specific reason to.
Don't pay too much mind to the supercheap system, it can get these things wrong.
Generally speaking 5w30 up to 200,000km then 5w40 for over 200,000km. The logic behind this is as engines rack up milage the tolerances become larger between cylinder wall and piston. Thicker oil will prevent said oil escaping into the chamber and burning whilst you drive. If you ever have a vehicle burning oil still running oem recommended, going to a slightly thicker viscosity may help stop that.
Exactly my point. Thanks doobey and I should have no problem using this in my car.
SCA system says below one fits my vehicle.
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/penrite-penrite-full-syn…
@pork chop
Use Castrol's Lube Finder. It's accurate. Not all 5w-30s are the same.
I'd be really surprised if the 2gr-fe engine in your car is using any oil to require you needing the heavier weighted oil despite the higher mileage.
Agreed. I'd only use thicker oil if the engine was consuming it and you were needing to top up too regularly.
My brother has a 2GR-FE nearing 300k and still uses 5w-30.
My parents have a Toyota 4 cyl with 420k on it, and it still uses 15w-40. Don't need to always thicken just because XXX,XXX km is reached.
My parents have a Toyota 4 cyl with 420k on it, and it still uses 15w-40. Don't need to always thicken just because XXX,XXX km is reached.
15w40 is not the recommended oil viscosity for any 4 cylinder engine from Toyota, so the viscosity has already been adjusted for the kilometers accrued.
@placard: Doesn't matter the year, 15w40 has never been a factory recommended viscosity from Toyota for any of their 4 cylinder petrol engines. Generally speaking(cause I don't know the model) recommended viscosity up to the mid teens has been 5w30, newer engines have much lower tolerances in manfuacturing which has allowed for stuff like 0w20 to come into play. But being a 97 Toyota I can almost guarantee the original viscosity recommendation would be 5w30 so its already been adjusted for the higher milage.
@doobey1231: @doobey1231
Can you stop talking rubbish.
1997 Camry (and all the other 5S-FE Toyotas) are 10w-40 with the option from new (depending on the ambient temperature range) of 15w-40 or (shock horror!) 20w-50.
@brad1-8tsi: You don't need to tag me twice chief, it works by clicking reply lol. Feel free to post proof behind your assertation, until then Ill stick with the factory workshop manuals and the fact that I have owned several 5sfe, 2az, 1mz and 2gr powered vehicles. Also a factory trained toyota technician but pff what would I know. Pro tip 10w40 isnt 15w40.
My engine is 3MZ-FE (3.3 V6). Does not use any oil at all. I've only ever use 5w-30 and 10w-40 whichever one is on sale.
Should still be fine to use 10w-40 or do you suggest I stick to 5w-30? Car has only done 150k on the odo.
Both are fine, maybe in winter lean towards 5w-30. Or to make life easier just use 5w-40 the whole year and get the best of both worlds.
Sorry mate, thought the RX changed over to the 2gr by then. I'd stick to the 5w-30 if you can, I've got an '08 Kluger with 250k still running 5w-30 and it doesn't use a drop of oil. As others have said, unless it's using oil, stick to the recommended viscosity.
@ConsumerAffairs: Copied. Mine hasn't use one drop of oil regardless which viscosity I use. I've bought a Penrite 10w-40 from the last sale ready for my annual oil change in Dec so I can wait for the next 5w-30 on sale.
I've always run 5W-30 in my Subaru's which have suggested 0W-20. Especially in Aussie conditions.
grabbed some of the 0w40 my car needs (also discounted as part of this sale), thanks OP
5W-40. API SN/CF. ACEA A3/B4
Check spec's guys. If your ICE calls for C3, A5/B5, or something else which is not superseeded by this then you got the wrong spec
BTW: This oil is pretty good. Castrol is one of the very few blenders with a massive R&D dept that have another EP anti-wear additive as well as the usual ZDDP, which is titanium FST
Genuine question what does it mean if the spec matches or is exceeded by api but incorrect acea. Still safe to use?
API and ACEA are two standards organisations. For example, North American brands cars are usually API and the European are ACEA, Japanese are JACO. Not always, sometimes.
Car manufacturers might not align to any of these and create their own spec's (very common for the Euros, VW, Merc,BMW etc). Usually these specs are not much more different then the equivalent ACEA spec but with an additional requirement, or tighter limits on those requirements.
Sometimes it’s nothing more than the car manufacturers relabelling an existing spec and creating their own label/spec. Therefore, you see oils meeting an ACEA spec as well as a whole range of VW/BMW/Merc specs, because they are all so similar that the blender can reach out to additive package organisations (Chevron Oronite/Afton/Eni/Infineum etc) and create a product that meets whatever spec they want or even overlap into different standards organisations.
For ACEA, there are two sequences, A/B and C. The current sequence for A/B is A7/B7 which is sequence 2023. A/B is High SAPS (gasoline and diesel) and C is Low SAPS again for (gasoline and diesel). The difference is usually around the cars catalytic converter or particulate filter material, which requires low sulphated ash, phosphorus, sulphur (SAPS). So, you don't want to put A/B in an engine that needs a C sequence.
You need to know what spec your engine requires, say you have a BMW, so you might need BMW Longlife-01. In that case you don't give a f*** about it meeting some API spec or some MB spec because you only care about the spec that your engine calls for.
I know less about API, but I believe the latest spec is backward compatible with the older specs for the gasoline fuel (currently SP) and diesel for CK-4/FA-4
BTW: In case you didn’t know, I don’t believe there is a single company worldwide that has the inhouse ability to create base stock and create their own additives. The finished product comes from blenders, they purchase their base stock and work with an additives company (see above for some examples) who give them the ad-package to create a motor oil to said spec/s.
All the blender needs to do is blend it correctly. And if they can’t be f’ed doing that, they can get a toll blender to do it for them. That way they only need to do marketing/sales/support. If you think the likes of Penrite (for example) have teams of people in lab coats thinking how to meet spec API X and ACEA X and re-testing their formulations at $100K, far from it. The additives companies have done that work. You just tell them what base stock you’re working with, and they give you the cheat-sheet with the additives. Also explains why oil “meets” the standard (because the additive company has been tested their recipe, as long as its blended correctly) but is rarely “approved”, because approval cost $ and from what I’ve seen only MB are fussy on approvals.
I could be wrong with some of this.
kudo for your-attempt.
Anything that's @ the frontier of technology are full of BS. Why, it's because, often it's a mere-claim with little proven-testings, haven't being proven by others & tested by time. Simply put, the marketing dept. is working-overtime 😄.
We have seen this by some PREMIUM-branded oil & it's seems that some are trying to out-do others in the BS-space.
If you are driving a NEW BMW M3 that require that specific additives oil, read up on it, including research on it…funded-research are there also. Then decide if it's for you.
@ab c: Oil claims are not BS, they need to be backed up with facts/proof, or see you in court (well not you, I mean the blender). That's why you don't see stupid claims that can’t be justified.
Let’s look at this product.
Features:
5L. 5W-40. API SN/CF. ACEA A3/B4 - OK meets the spec
Contains Titanium Fluid Strength Technology. True, contains Titanium FCT. Check the results on www.oil-club.ru and you will see the Castrol oils claiming FCT with Titanium have Titanium in their test reports.
Maximises short & long term engine performance Could be a claim on anti-wear/Extreme Pressure (EP) additive package"
Sustains maximum performance for longer Could be a claim on anti-wear additive, things like ZDDP"
Reduces engine deposits This would be a claim on Detergents and Dispersants additive package
A bog-standard claim sheet, the only real standout is FCT. All claims above are nothing more than listing the properties of engine motor oil and putting the characteristics of each additive package in plain engine/marketing speak.
If you see marking claims such as 2x protection over XYZ etc then this would be claim that the additives package for that claim is more advanced then what its being compared to. You won't see many oils that claim above the spec.
For fun, let’s look at Penrite’s equivalent, HPR 5 5W-40 (Full Synthetic)
EXTRA TEN technology offers the same engine wear protection at start up, but offers an extra layer of protection under all driving conditions compared to SAE 5W-30 & SAE 10W-30 engine oils. A nothing claim, other than saying 5W40 offers more protection than 5W30, fair enough
FULL ZINC anti-wear additive package for ultimate engine wear protection. As per the required spec, might have more ZDDP then the spec required while still in the allowed range for test results
API LICENSED for quality assurance Meets specs, OK
LATEST API SP engine oil specification technology for improved engine durability, better fuel economy and increased wear protection. Meets specs, OK
ENHANCED LSPI (Low Speed Pre-Ignition) protection. LSPI is part of the spec tests, usually caused cars moving to smaller displacement engines with more boost” LSPI is not a good thing, it’s not part of ACEA A3/B3 but part of API SN Plus. So again, nothing more than meets spec”
TLDR: Marketing speak and benefits are legit, but it's usually nothing more than putting the characteristics of the oil into plain English. There is no such thing as BS for motor oil.
@mrhugo: I did say '…frontier of technology are full of BS'. Take all their claims as a guide-only. They all imply that their products are more superior than-others.
The real test is how they ACTUALLY-perform?
An oil claim to have 'long-life' properties: test it out. May be change oil now & see how does your engine behave compare to your favourite brand-model-> handle COLD-morning starts: 5°C or lower: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/comment/15322449/redir
After 12 months (Winter 2025), how does your engine behave in the same condition as above. How does the used oil look & feel on your oil dipstick, how sludgy does your drained-oil look in direct-sunlight etc etc…whatever test you feel suitable.
An oil claim to have superior 'anti-wear additive'. Cut open your oil-filter. Filtered metal-pieces: how does it compare to your favourite oil ?
My NEW 1990 MX-5 was filled with ethylene-glycol coolant & need coolant change every 2-years.
OAT-coolant was 1st released in 1994 ish, https://www.autozone.com/diy/trustworthy-advice/understandin…
In 2021, I changed the FACTORY-coolant of a Lexus IS250 2010 & the 10yrs coolant look-clear & no-residue in a syringe via direct-sunlight. We now know that most ICE uses OAT-coolant.
Users should read up what those industry standard mean: API & ACEA.
@mrhugo Thanks for the comprehensive reply :)
but incorrect acea
If you're cautious, then meet all the criteria.
There're opportunities to deviate slightly from the spec. It's 'trials & errors', researching what those-spec. really meant & it's very-technical (not sure if I believe some of the write-ups), speaking to others who're more-knowledgeable, not pushing your oil-change interval etc. This is not for the average-person.
In the end, if you have experimented & your 12 yrs old car runs perfectly & it's mileage is similar to when-NEW (proof of min. wear)…do you believe in write-ups that contradict your experience ?
Hi there, just wanted to mention that it's no longer API SN/CF accordance with the current PDS for this product, Castrol has had this product to pass only API SP (inline with the PDS from 02 Feb 2024)
SAE 0W-20 recommended for F56 Mini JCW. No official specs, no handbook in the car (digital) so 🤷♂️
From a random website: For Gen 3 (F56/F55/F57/F54/F60) 2016-2017models, factory recommends FULL SYNTHETIC SAE 0W-20 (recommended), 0W-30, SAE 5W-20, SAE 5W-30, SAE0W-40 or 5W-40
Being in QLD doesn't get very cold, 5W-40 should be fine? Mostly around town driving not long drives.
I have 3 bottles of these sitting in the garage, roughly 3 years old, are they now dud?
I changed to Tesla 😊
I've used years old bottles and they were fine. Just make sure they've been kept sealed and out of sunlight.
Yep stored in the shelf in the garage , will see if anyone wants them in my area.. pretty sure back then the deal was $25 per bottle! Inflation sounds fun!
I have used Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 that are more-than 5 yrs old & have not notice any difference in engine-smoothness or drained used-oil feel/look.
It's likely that other PREMIUM-branded oil are the same.
If anyone have different understandings &/or experience, feel free to share. Even better, publish links to support.
Sell to me cheaply?
Should be good for 5+ years if sealed bottle.
It meets only 505.00, not 505.01 that is what 5W-40 is for Euro diesel PD engines. Penrite Enviro+ 5W-40 and Gulf Western Syn-X 6000 5W-40 meet 505.01.
Will this be good for VF V8 LSA? Thanks
"Unavailable for delivery"
Only C&C
I decided to check the Supercheap Auto reviews.. Big mistake..
Good Stuff, We Took Turns
Me and the motor got wild on this stuff last weekend. (Mk6 Golf 2009 1.4TSI) Emptied her out and stocked up with this stuff. We then lost track of time holding a "who can chug the most in 1hr" competition. Unfortunately the Mk6 Golf won (he managed to sink 3.7L approx) and I could only manage 0.8L before puking. I had the last laugh though as the Golf now has the 'rona, get rekt lad, Happy driving
OP can you confirl if this is 100% synthetic please
The answer is on the deals page mate.
only asking as im no expert in this area and have heard on numerous occasions that some labelling of synthetic oils is misleadeping.
Was more after someone providing me some reassurance that this is as labelled.
This depends entirely on your definition of "fully synthetic" - most modern oils don't use the literal definition, and it's not something you need to care about.
Use the Castrol site to check this is the right oil for your car, and if it is then you're good to go.
@Nom: Thank you.
Appreciated.
My mechanic didnt state brands, he just stated to make sure if was 100% synthetic.
Was experiencing oil loss and he suggested it was more to do with the small size of the oil tank and driving in a warmer climate like I do.
He even suggested going from a manufacturer recommended 5w-30 to a 5w-40 like thus one,
or even up to a 10w.
I might be quite knowledgeable, but as they say.. you cant be an expert at everything. Thus why I appreciate your reply.
haha…'synthetic' is a word that has NO-real meaning in 'oil-science'…at least the MAJOR oil-brand can't agree-on: Mobil vs Castrol. Guess who made this up…Castrol according to some internet-articles.
Group I, II, III, IV & V base-oil is 'oil-science'. Yes, Group-III are highly-refined from crude-oil: black-sludge that come from the ground…yes, their properties can-match that of Group-IV, if you believe some write-ups.
Simply put, when you pay a little bit more for your Castrol-brand oil, it's most likely that it has more-of Group II &/or III base-oil.
Stick to PREMIUM-brand & don't cheap-out with budget-brand, as per my obvervation above.
Mobil 1: I have yet to find any independent-review that confirm that their oil is 100% Group-IV base-oil….may be NO such test exist?
Anyone, feel free to share your opposing-views, with links to support knowledge-sharing 🤓.
https://thelubricantoracle.castrol.com/HPLguide/page-templat…
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/au…
Will this be good for VF V8 LSA? Thanks
The LL is $51 at Supercheap - I think that is an all time best price.
Yep, wonder why LL doesn’t mention anything about the API ? Is it SL or SN ? Thanks
I use this in all my European cars, Castrol Edge ftw