Car Conundrum - Changeover to Suit New Hobby, Hiking?

Hi All,

I will try and avoid the dreaded TLDR attacks.

Lived rural-ish for 8yrs. Commute to town on paved roads, steep hills ~50km return. No kids, near 50's & have had a 2017 Hyundai i30 diesel thats done tha very well 7 even handled minor towing duties. Economical, safe, reliable-ish.

But in the last year we've gotten into hiking/bushwalking a lot. Do several times a week, locations often involve unsealed roads which the i30 gets hammered on, even just unsealed roads in good nick shakes it to bits ($600 rear ABS sensor replacement which I suspect might have been semi-related to this). We sometimes car pool with other club members but can be PITA.

The i30 has 85,xxx kms on it - considering selling & getting car that can do the commute AND unsealed roads for hiking……..or………get a 'banger' vehicle for hiking ONLY and keeping i30.

4WD capability is NOT essential - but it'd be handy - not a huge fan of big 4WDs or big cars in general TBH. Open to utes - hilly terrain here so went with diesel but if petrol better for costs (fuel+maintenance) open to them too.

Budget? Ummm definitely 2nd hand say as close to the value of the i30 as possible but happy to toss $10k extra in or so if there was a terrific all-in-one option.

Alas has to be an auto, freaking embarrassing but yeah….anyway just looking for suggestions of models so I can deep dive them a tad more.

Cheers in advance.

Comments

  • +6

    Just grab a Grand Vitara or Jimny, very capable 4x4s without being huge or costing a fortune

    • +3

      yep have owned both and can't fault them. Going off OP's needs the GV is perfect, won't break the bank and realistically could be all-in-one option.
      I had my GV for about 2 years but got more into 4wd'ing, hence the Jimny, but the GV will handle any easy 4wd track with ease and still tow ~1T whilst being much more comfortable as a daily.
      Look at a 2013+ 2.4 - the most reliable model, in either 3/5 door, just not the URBAN model as those are RWD

      my second pick would be a Subaru XV. They're super capable little cars

      • +1

        Great reply - love it when folks pick out SPECIFIC models &/or years as there can be some duds in whats otherwise very well regarded models.

        The Subaru's were one of the first cars that sprung to mind - but again great you highlighted a model in particular. Outside perception of them is that they're high maintenance & prone to issues if not treated well….true or urban myth?

        • +3

          TLDR: Have an outback in the family and its going strong at nearly 10 years and 100k and have a forester and XV in the extended family.
          They're all running strong and haven't had any issues.


          We are all quite fastidious with maintenance (particularly me) so that probably half the reason why.
          Whilst it's not a Toyota/Lexus product that would continue running during a nuclear fallout, I'd say that these generally are top notch when it comes to reliability (if maintained properly).
          Older (pre-2014ish) Subaru's that ran "EJ" series engines were strong but with age developed head gasket issues.
          Modern 'FB engine' Subaru's don't have this problem but are slightly compromised with their DIT and CVT.

          CVT issues are the most apparent in these as the Subaru 'lifetime' fluid doesn't seem to last. I think dealerships are starting to recommend changes at ~150k but most forums recommend a 100k (or shorter interval), for which mine is due. This costs ~$500-1000 (easily less than $500 if DIY) and will greatly extend the lifetime of the transmission. I have one friend who bought an Outback and theirs blew at 180k (Subaru did end up paying for a new CVT under goodwill, excl labour).

          DIT (common across many brands) leads to carbon buildup which seems to be more prominent in these boxer engines. We all run 95/98 to reduce carbon buildup as they are cleaner fuels (lower sulphur concentrations to the naysayers / 91 octane beleivers)
          Subaru 'stealerships' will service with Upper Engine Cleaner and charge an arm and a leg, but there's no reason DIY mechanics or independents cannot do this for you. A can is about ~$25 and be sourced for less.

          • @JDMcarfan: Any car manufacturer that says its a lifetime fluid basically means the warranty period to the manufacturer.

    • +1

      The new jimnys actually looks like a fun weekend car - always loved how it looked with the after market mini g kit haha

    • +1

      Vitara / Grand Vitara needs a careful selection of engine types.

      The (Fiat?) diesel and the (GM based) V6 petrol are both of questionable reliability. Plus one other engine is a poopy too (sorry, researched all this in 2021 and the brain has turned to mush).

      • Diesel was manual only, which would rule it out anyway.
        V6 was only in the prestige, unless you mean the old 2.7 V6 which would be far too old now

        • Good points - so which year &/or engine in the GV would you say are the 'best' to look into?

          Also excellent you highlighted the ones to avoid - so both ways do work. :-)

          • +1

            @Daniel Plainview: Not too sure tbh, never heard any issues with the later 2.4L models.

            Just expect that they'll be thirsty - 4-speed auto with a constant 4x4, will get around 10-11L/100kms. But they're a good basic vehicle that won't take much to get upgraded (double-din stereo swaps out easily for Carplay/Android Auto etc).

      • +3

        Bad:
        Diesel - DPF and EGR issues (ticking timebombs and why they're the cheapest). Plus, all manual as noted by spackbace
        2.7 - timing chain issues
        2.4 (pre 2012 facelift) - cracked engine blocks (the ones still on the road shouldn't be affected but still a risk)
        1.6 - only on the oldest 3 doors and they all lack a locking centre diff and low range

        Good:
        2.0 (what I had) - the JDM engine, no mechanical issues. Quite underpowered (still beats a Jimny though)
        3.2 - no mechanical issues. probably the rarest/ most sought after so 2010 ones are still 15k+. auto only and roughly same fuel consumption as 2.4
        2.4 (post 2012 facelift) - no mechanical issues, block redesigned to fix problems (4x4 models are quite pricey compared to the rest of the range as everyone is in the know)

        • +1

          Another GREAT post - sincerely appreciate the effort! Much thanks

    • GV - good point - already have shortlisted.

      Jimny? Strikes me as being a single trick pony i.e very capable compact 4wd but I hear bad things for being a daily commuter.

      • Jimny? Strikes me as being a single trick pony i.e very capable compact 4wd but I hear bad things for being a daily commuter.

        Depends how much you pay. Unfortunately MCM did one up which sent prices up. These used to be $20-$22k drive away when new! (well, the old shape 4x4 were)

      • +2

        Id imagine commuting 50km a day in a jimny woulsnt be a lot of fun. Havent driven one but had a sierra many moons ago. The sierra was virtually flat out at highway speeds

        Friends kid bought one and when they drove it they were horrified at what hed bought. Slow and uncomfortable.

  • +11

    Some sort of subaru? forester, outback, xv

  • Look an AWD Hyundai Tuscon, would probably do you very well for what you want. Great for around town and good for rough/dirt roads. My wife has one and it does well for visiting our rural family on dirt roads but also good enough for zipping around town.

    • I will look into - a tad big for my liking and honestly Hyundai has kind of annoyed me with a bunch of stuff I've come across with the i30. Much thanks for the idea.

  • +2

    Outback is pretty good but it’s AWD not 4WD

    X trail has a proper 4WD version. It’s a lot more agricultural as a car (on road) with the older models more in your price range

    Or for a proper full on 4WD a Pajero

    Or an amarok

    • AWD is not a big issue - it's very rare even for the two hiking groups I lead walks with that you NEED a 4wd, it might be handy to have one - but a vehicle with good ground clearance and robust suspension will with commonsense from drivers make it through a lot of terrain.

      AWD and AT tyres steps that up - and 4WD a step further - but there's only been a few walks I've been on where a 4wd was essential and often these have smaller groups and we'll carpool anyway as limited parking spots at the start.

      • +3

        Yeah, I have an outback and it’s great; the main issue is if you fall into a large washout/gutter or it’s very muddy. But it’s a great tourer car and really comfortable, so you don’t lose out on the normal driving side of things like you do with the more serious 4WD

  • +4

    Get an AU Falcon. It fulfills all your needs, everyday driver, capable on dirt roads, old banger.

  • +1

    How much distance do you have to cover on unsealed roads? Have you considered towing a 2-up ATV or couple of dirt bikes (ICE or EV) or e-mountain bikes?

    • I like the outside the box thought but nah thats a complete non-starter but appreciate the willingness to make a choice I'd not of otherwise considered. :-)

  • +3

    I too am into those things as well as camping. Had a subaru XV and loved it, wanted something bigger and got a forester which I love too. Have yet to find a place it has not been able to take me! Nothing has broken either. Get one with the FB series engines though, the EJ engines had expensive headgasket issues.

    XV got about 7.5-8L/100km with all terrain tires and a roof platform
    Forester gets about 8.5-10L/100km with all terrain tires, and a lift

    The XV I had was a 2013, goes for about $15k for an auto

    As others suggested the Jimny/Grand Vitara are also good. I was not keen on their poor crash safety rating though, if that matters to you.

    • I was not keen on their poor crash safety rating though, if that matters to you.

      From memory they were 5 stars on release, it was just that Ancap requirements moved quickly afterwards

    • +1

      Great post and suggestion, love the detailed and evidence based info - much thanks.

      Yes, well if it's to be an 'allrounder' i.e also do the daily commute it'd have to be safe, economical etc - I mean it's kinda silly for me to focus on the 10% of drives we do that are on unsealed roads - rather than the 90% we do to work and also to the start of those unsealed roads. hence while the Jimny is excellent as 4WD it's not what I could use beyond that.

      And for simplicity & likely overall costs when factored over time - I think that one vehicle makes sense - but I could be wrong on that as it might be you have to compromise too much and could save costs on a 'banger' i.e 3rd party insurance only, do servicing yourself (as I do generally) etc.

      Again GREAT post - very helpful! Thank you.

      • +1

        No worries! I totally understand.

        I considered similar things as for me its also the car I get around town in. I wanted to maintain good fuel efficiency & usability to get to work etc. More info you might find useful given you're doing similar activities.

        On the XV I had Yokohama Geolandar G105 tires, these were AWESOME! I got them on a 3 for 4 deal. They had great grip on dirt, never punctured, but also had great grip on the street in wet and dry conditions.

        On the forester I have got Falken Wildpeak AT3W tires, people seem to rave about these. They do look chunky and cool, they also perform great but I find they have more vibrations, which the Yokohamas did not have.

        If you do get one, make sure to find one with a good service history too, a poorly maintained subaru will not be good.

        The CVT is not bad either. I previously hated CVTs after trying a mitsubishi mirage with one. The Subie CVT feels similar to a regular auto, and has been reliable for me as well.

        • +1

          Subaru CVTs - any experience with them at all? Not sure of their reputation.

          Cheers for the tyre tips - repped those same two models to a lady only a few weeks back who needed good AT tyres.

          • +2

            @Daniel Plainview: No problem. Yeah I too was a CVT hater before haha. I have driven some truly awful ones in other cars. The subaru one is not bad though. For me it drives like a regular torque converter auto would, if you want it also has paddles and then shifts as if it had "gears".

            The 2L XV did feel a bit slow, whereas the 2.5L forester feels more grunty. I'd suggest test drive and see how you like the feel. Personally it was not an issue. Still enough power to overtake etc.

            Most models have the TR580 CVT which is quite reliable. Standard XV & Forester got those. Some outbacks and performance models (XT & WRX) got the TR690 which had a few issues, especially in the outback.

            Subaru advise here in australia that the CVT fluid is good for the lifetime of the car. Not sure I believe that. In my XV I changed it at 120,000km with Penrite CVT Chain fluid, continued to run great afterwards. Subaru specialists can do this for you also. I would suggest to change the fluid eventually to maintain reliability. No oil is good forever!

            There is a good youtube channel called MrSubaru if you want more info on the technical things. His videos can draw on but there is good info.

        • +1

          Gday , 2018 xv owner here with G015 too. what tyre pressure did you run yours on? if i pump mine to 38psi then i can get about 8L but i feel theyre too pumped up. If i pump to 36 then i get 10L/100km :s

          the pajero we have has the at3w tires. they do make a bit more sound indeed. on long drives my hands can get pins and needles from the vibrations :/s maybe time for another reblanace.

          • +2

            @FoxJump: 2 psi = 2l/100? Something doesnt sound right there.

          • @FoxJump: Yeah I am sad the AT3W are not as nice as the G015, they look a lot cooler haha.

            I am not sure about tire pressure, I ran them at whatever is on the door placard. I am surprised your efficiency is changing that much, are you sure nothing else changes in that comparison?

        • +1

          second the g015's. had them on my GV
          absolute beast of a tyre, and mirror your thoughts exactly
          also got on a 4 for 3 sale

  • +1

    We (GF & I) had the same issue.

    In our 50s and lots of (new to me, not to her) hiking & camping.
    I had a Skoda Octavia. We'd head out bush and I'd fill the engine undertray with several kilos of rocks. One conversation on a muddy track near Narooma "I can get us down the hill but up the other side is questionable." We did a 20km detour that day.

    I went full-on and bought a Pajero Sport and it's done everything I need it to but is also too much car for 90% of our adventures.
    We've also bought a Golf Alltrack Wagon for when we don't need the fridge, tent, chairs, air mattresses, etc. It's not what I'd recommend for most people but I understand VW product and where they fail (as they inevitably will).

    I don't like Subarus (these days) due to the CVT transmission.

    Jimny would be great but they are a bit busy when trying to cover ground at 110kph.

    • Great post - can relate. Paj's are great, a bunch in the clubs have them & while I think the Paj Sport is based on the Triton underneath it? - I hear they're still very good vehicles.

      Yup - is funny you say that about the CVT on the SUbaru's as I literally went to redbook and noticed that immediately - not sure if they specifically have had luck with theirs but as a general rule i try and avoid CVTs - but might be a perception thing.

      Agree on the very capable Jimny - I could only get if that was a separate vehicle.

      • I reckon you won’t notice it’s a CVT within 5 minutes.

        • Perhaps, have driven a DCT for quite a while now but know how to drive that so as not to stuff it up. Much thanks

          • @Daniel Plainview: yeah, its a little different to a DCT I guess; but its not different to a torque auto except its a bit smoother. TBH you notice its different if you really floor it - a trad torque auto drops a few gears, revs and then thumps as you head off. A CVT revs and then takes off smoothly. You think the torque auto is going faster because you get the sudden thump and revs but its pretty much the same actual take off speed. But in normal driving it just feels the same

      • +2

        Paj Sport is based on the Triton underneath it?

        It's a Triton wagon. Fair value for money. Very capable off road but it's showing its older origins.

        Differences from a Triton:
        Coil spring rear with disc brakes.
        Excellent Aisin 8 speed transmission
        Doodads in the cabin
        Possibly something different about the turbo or the fuel map as it feels less spritely than the Triton.

        Bad bits:
        A bit gutless
        Small 68l fuel tank
        Tappet adjustment every 60k
        Intercooler O-ring and hose failures
        sway bar rubber failure
        A few other things I've forgotten.

        • I'm thinking about getting a Paj Sport, so if you think of any more issues, please update 😄.

          That said, I'll probably wait for the coming update (2025?), and buy new. It's a pity Mitsubishi don't sell a small Pajero anymore, and that Suzuki dropped the 4WD GV. There's no new options for a small/medium 4WD 😞

          • @BigBirdy:

            That said, I'll probably wait for the coming update (2025?), and buy new.

            Is it even a Mits underneath tho, what with the joint cars with Renault etc?

            • @spackbace: Dunno, could be a Nissan, Renault, Samsung, Proton or even Mitsubishi. Google suggests the Triton motor is Mitsubishi, & next Navara will be based on Triton.

            • +2

              @spackbace: Mitsubishi appear to have been given the role of "1 tonne" ute/wagon developer.

              The updated engine has more power and a flatter torque curve but it's still not class leading power. On the bright side they now have hydraulic lifters so that's $600 less maintenance costs every 60k km.

              Negatives are some very intrusive "safety systems" that are not mandatory to meet ADRs.

  • +1

    TBH the i30 will likely do anything you want. Anything will get rattled to bits on rough gravel. The only real difference an SUV will make is extra ground clearance if the goong gets really rough.

    Maybe drop your tyre pressures a bit when getting onto dirt.

    But then… new toys and all.

    • True - but ground clearance is a big thing many roads while unsealed also have decent corrugation and rutting - and alas the i30 we have is one of the 'higher' models so unfortunately for these purposes has larger rims and lower profile tyres, seems a tad lower than OEM ones but I know it's not been modded. As said already had a $600 bill which I think was brought about by using and I just think while you could, it's not a good idea.

      But yu make good points. :-)

      • A set of lower spec or just smaller rims would be cheaper than a new car - assuming the brakes arent bigger and the smaller diameter rums work.

        Thinking outside the box, but id be likely pleased theres a decent excuse for a new car! Of the cars I've bought over the years only one has been 'worn out' and replaced with the same type. The rest have been lifestyle or needs change.

        • I had considered this BUT this still would make IMHO margin difference - as the ground clearance would still be the same & the suspension would still be just as firm. Just did a 200km day trip in the i30 - is a great highway car but had to carpool for the rough section up to the starting point.

  • +2

    A few left field ideas for you from a hiking & import fan.

    https://j-spec.com.au/featured/2011-Mitsubishi-Pajero_Mini-V…

    This car can be had much cheaper if you import one yourself. Small but super roomy inside due to configurable seats that can be made into bed.
    https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2019-honda-n-box-cu…

    • +1

      And here I was expecting a link to a Delica :P

    • Much thanks - love the outside the box ideas, if only for the 'Wow' factor - much thanks.

      The Mini Paj is intriguing - but the N-Box….ugh! Damn thats got a look only a mother could love. Very curious car, I thought you'd linked wrong at first - can't imagine if offroad - looks like a very low ground clearance.

  • +1

    No car based suv will hold up to regular driving on corrugated dirt roads. They may have AWD but is not designed for that level of abuse.

    You'd want to look at something with a ladder chassis - a ute / a land cruiser or a ute based SUV,

    Driving a lexus RX and a old toyota van on dirt roads - you can feel the RX doesn't like it and the Van, well it didn't care at all.

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