[deleted]
What Should I Do with My Car with an Engine Knock?
closed Comments
The risk here? That the second hand engine isn’t much better.
As op said, this is a super common issue with Hyundai engines.
You get a second hand engine with only half the km's on it though.
crappy situation OP
This bloke on YT had the same issue (as you mention it's a wide spread issue with these cars): I Bought A Dirt Cheap Hyundai Elantra… With A Problem!
This, thicker oil would be a great idea. Piston slapping isn't necessarily a sign of impending death either, it could go for ages without any issues. I know these engines are particularly problematic but I ran an old subaru with the issue for years without any issue.
The other stuff in that video probably make it key watching for anyone with an elantra.
Cheers! I think the stressful part is not knowing when it'll go. I got mixed messages from my mechanic with one of them basically saying "just keep driving it until it gets worse" and the other hinting that I probably shouldn't be driving it long distances, so I'm worried to take it to do anything other than my 15min commute to/from work a couple of times a week
Not always a sign of impending death - sure - but by the same token engines / components don't like slapping into each other either.
And murphy will always be ready to make sure when it does go - it will be at the worst possible moment.
Thanks for the response, that's a great video! Goes through the identical issue mine has
What I've heard some people do is throw some additives in with the oil to try and lesson the noise, unsure what though or if it is even possible with an engine knock and drive it to a dealer and trade it in……….
When I took it to my mechanic right before Christmas they put in some lifter free engine oil additive, but it doesn't seem to have helped much unfortunately
or if it is even possible with an engine knock and drive it to a dealer and trade it in……….
So that they can then sell it some other poor schmuck? Yeah nah mate, OP don't listen to this person.
You'll be able to get quotes for supply and fitting of a used engine. Although $5-7K for a new one isn't ridiculous.
Pretty sure the $5-7k quote was for a second hand one, with a new one being ~$10k
5-7k for a new engine is a bargain from a dealer.
Tell me you didn't read the post without telling you didn't read the post
Stupidly I didn't get a pre-inspection done. I bought the car from the daughter of a family friend and I don't believe the knock was present when I bought it (at least not one that I could notice) but point taken - I've learnt my lesson
and people go on about EVs maybe needing a battery in 10-15 years time but totally accept a 10 year old car needing a new engine.
This is a sample size of 1, you're using it the same way people pick one aspect of something that happened and extrapolate it to everything. My experience is that i have a 20+ year old car with ~350,000km on it, and no major issues.
you're using it the same way people pick one aspect of something that happened and extrapolate it to everything
So you mean the same way the ICE lovers pick one EV needing a battery and claim all EVs need a battery 2-3 years?
Yeah I guess so.
Was going to post this but you saved me the effort. Thanks
You just proved my point
You just proved my point
Did you hear that whooshing sound of sarcasm flying over your head? Because I did.
I mean for the record I imagine most people wouldn't agree with a 10y/o car needing a new engine being reasonable or acceptable.
Needing an engine to be replaced is very bad luck / maintenance, and could be the end of the car.
People want to know is it the same case or not with EV batteries, what is the likelihood etc.
If battery replacements are just as likely as engine replacements and cost the same then most people would probably be ok with that. However if it is more likely and more expensive then that could be cause for concern.Needing an engine to be replaced is very bad luck / maintenance, and could be the end of the car.
That it is, and is far more common than people realise.
People want to know is it the same case or not with EV batteries, what is the likelihood etc.
Just like engines, the battery is replaceable. But also like ICE cars, there is a point that the repairs outweigh the cost of the car. Considering most EVs have a 8 year battery warranty, you'll be pretty safe for most of the cars useful life. If the battery totally fails at 10 years or more, then its most likely a write off like a ICE is today. But unlike ICE cars, EVs batteries hold a lot of value even when dead. So you can cash your cars battery in :)
The battery pack is fully recyclable.
If battery replacements are just as likely as engine replacements and cost the same then most people would probably be ok with that.
It'll be the same or less. Lots of EVs running around, very few have battery failures, but the ones that do always end up in the MSM.
However if it is more likely and more expensive then that could be cause for concern.
It will depend on how often they failure really. If 1 out of 1m units fails, and costs $15k to replace, its meh and bad luck. If 1 out of 1000 fail and cost $15k to replace, it would be of a concern indeed.
My main issue for the anit EVs is all the points they put forward generally apply to the ICE market as well. Gearboxes fail, engines fail or need to be rebuilt etc. All costly repairs as well.
Trade it in.
This. Change the oil for a thicker/heavier weight and then see what you can get for it as part-ex on something else. At least with a dealer you can negotiate for warranty.
Hyundai have really been having a PR nightmare lately. and with Paint
So much for choosing reliable korean cars…
Honestly if they're not standing by their unreliable products consumers are going to have less reason to choose them over the cheaper chinese brands that would do the same but for less.
They have some truely dismal engines and other major faults amongst some models and minimal help even when in warranty - unless you have a full dealer done service history. But even then, they will try wriggle out of it.
They have really shot themselves in the foot. Imo they were slowly starting to shake the dodgy cheapo image they had from their early years. Then they just produced some utter junk and ruined their progress.So much for choosing reliable korean cars
Toyota have a class action against them because of paint issues.
VW is constantly involved in scandals about emissions cheating and recalls.
This is nothing to do with koReA BaD
Didn't say KoReA BaD, in fact i was extremely happy with the two Sportages i've owned in my lifetime.
Moreso saying that they're going to struggle to charge a premium if this is the way they're treating customers when China is doing cheaper cars with the same support level.
Hyundai have always had cheap/nasty cars, at some point their reputation changed but there hasn't been specific proof that this meant their cars were any better.
The whole situation has been quite stressful especially considering I just sunk a bunch of money into it paying rego/insurance/new battery as well.
Could be money well spent on the insurance if it just happened to meet an unfortunate fate.
Haha slide into my DMs and I'll tell you where it's parked ;)
Sell it while it's still running.
Sell it, make it someone else's problem.
Try 98 octane fuel
If that fixes the knock, sell it with a tank full of that and don't mention anything
(profanity) move and you are the reason people should be getting a vehicle inspected before purchasing
Protip. This is called fraud.
It's definitely not fraud.
How does that fix/conceal the knock?
If the knock is due to the fuel igniting prior to when it should, a higher octane will prevent pre-ignition.
Put it on gumtree believe it or not dodgy used car people buy this stuff for around 8k and can put an engine in overnight and its back on the market at your local parramatta road used car dealer for 14k.
To the average joe broken cars sounds like pain and money put to a dealer, a vin number no written off history etc is a gold mine for quick cash
It's not worth $10k now mate.
I know haha.. I meant how much it'd be worth without the engine issues
Meh, drive it till it does. Could be another 3 months, could be another 3 years. Once it does, just throw it on Fartbook Sharketplace or Scamtree and just get what you can get for it. Do not throw any more money at it (sunk cost fallacy).
Are you using e10?
Just about any fuel will do, if you splash enough of it in the cabin…
Yes, why's that?
"Hyundai vehicles are calibrated to make the best use of available petroleum fuels (including E10)."
"All Hyundai cars with a petrol engine can use E10 petrol without limitation."Negative. Not all Hyundai cars can use E10 without limitation.
Namely N Performance models.
Get Hyundai to lodge a claim with head office provide all the servicing receipts and quote the American issues and see what they say ??
It'll cost $1600 just to pull the engine apart to properly diagnose the issue. I was told that the extended warranty doesn't apply to Australia and even if I have full service history specifying the parts and oil used (which I don't as I'm the 3rd owner, I do have services going back to 2017 though) then the chances of getting a goodwill warranty claim with Hyundai was slim. Without the full service history I was told it would be impossible
"Pre-ignition pinging" is much more common, than actual "engine knock".
"Pre-ignition pinging" is more like engine rattle (ratt tatt tatt tatt …) when accelerating from lower speed. There is a fix for this."Engine knock" is lower frequency like a "hammer hitting against metal engine case" (clonkk clonkk clonkk…) … if you have this, bad news; it's a sign impending death.
What's the best fix for pre-ignition pinging?
As the engine gets older, some oil slowly gets into combustion chamber forming a layer of carbon, which then cause the fuel-mixture to pre-ignite before it is suppose to. We can't stop the carbon from forming. Only thing to do is try to prevent pre-ignition and to some extent, continuously try to remove some excess carbon.
- Use RON95 or 98 fuel; it makes it harder to pre-ignite. It also has more "detergent" and less "aromatics". It is a better quality fuel.
- Use RON98 for a couple of tanks together Lucas Fuel Stabiliser (at least 150ml, 3x the dose). This will help to remove some excess carbon.
A "colder" rated spark plug may help as well.
The above worked for my old Mazda.
Sorry to hear and it’s a tough decision. Without a service history Hyundai won’t help but the dealer might do a reduced price given it’s a known Hyundai issue. The car is probably not worth that much so perhaps you drive it until it dies or just offload it as is. Don’t worry about the guilt trip as that’s how the used car market works.
Hi OP, before proceeding to any further step, please try 98 octane fuel as oscargamer and ValueBob said; also try fuel additives and/or Fuel system cleaner.
Sometimes the issue is not that severe as it looks.
Cheers.
https://www.hyundaiengineclassaction.com.au/
They were successful in the US, might be worth a look but wont be a speedy resolution.
Me personally, I'd strongly consider buying a running write off and swapping the engine myself. You might find an independant mechanic who can give you a quote for a swap with a 2nd hand engine.