Hi all, was buying some filament and noticed this deal in store. Price on website is 329 but it's definitely $249 in store. I already have too many printers….but still very tempting. Fixed bed (no levelling knobs) + Cr touch and sprite direct drive at this price is nuts
They had at least a dozen stacked in my local store, all jaycar stores apparently have this special going.
Is this good for a beginner tinkerer?
Yes, extremely good for beginners - fast to set up, no "frustrating" tinkering like bed levelling required. Cura has profiles in its latest version (5.6.0) so when you're ready to tune your slicer, there is plenty of opportunity for "fun tinkering".
Depends if you're more interested in tinkering or printing, really. This is good for tinkering, a BL machine for stress-free printing.
From my experience, they're easy to use. There is no manual bed levelling required, which is the most painful part of 3D printing for beginners.
I bought one at normal price for my brother a few months back, genuinely plug and play printing. We haven't had to do any maintenance or anything like that on it so far
Don't get a Creality printer unless you want to learn how to repair and tune a 3d printer. The chances of getting a trouble free one a pretty low.
Buy this and learn with it then when you are skilled you can print the parts to make a higher end printer.
So you recommend a Bambu labs A1/mini? Any recommendations on deals for them by any chance?
Depends on the print size you want. Not sure if they'll have any sales for a while. Just keep an eye on their website.
Keep in mind. With the Bambu labs printers you can buy the AMS which allows you to print in multi colour which opens a whole new world.
The printers you recommend are Chinese brand too, so you don’t need to add ‘Chinese’ between junk & printers, as no matter good or bad, they are all made in China.
As an owner of an Ender 3 S1 and a P1S I can say that both represent good value for money for me. I am happy that I spent a year with a $400ish Ender 3 first before decided to make the jump to a $1400ish P1S. I figured out that I enjoyed 3D printing and learned a lot about how to design for it, and how it can go wrong.
Bambu has put some serious work into the plug-and-play-ness of their printers. They are agonisingly close to the point where you could recommend one to a person that wants to print in 3D without actually caring how 3D printing works. However it still can, AND WILL, ocassionally go wrong that will require you to gather some understanding of "why".
This printer at $250 is phenomenal value and absolutely is worth your time. Given you've described yourself as a tinkerer I would even argue there is extra value in a printer that is a little "harder" to use, as it will allow you to poke and prod and research how to get the best out of it.
Is the $600+ Bambu A1 better - yeah - but it's priced as such.
Thanks for chiming in with real experience.
When you say that the P1S occasionally goes wrong, have you encountered the usual issues of:
If so, how often (e.g. 1 in 10 prints)?
Almost all of the problems I've had have been due to my own mistakes (bad design, not enough support, accidentally having the print hover above the bed like an idiot). And my failure rate is probably like 1 in 25, but I haven't been keeping count as it's really very reliable (and fast!). OrcaSlicer has some great in built calibration tools to address stuff like potential over extrusion. If I hadn't spent a year with my first printer I would have undoubtedly had far more failures. Per some other comments, bed leveling is the bane of many a new 3D printing hobbyist, and honestly there is no real benefit to learning how to do it yourself manually. The concept is simple - the bed needs to be level - having this automated away is a godsend and a huge frustration reducer. I would never buy a printer, even a cheap as chips one, that didn't have this. Filament runout sensors are nice to have, but I've never needed mine in hundreds of prints.
It mostly just works, but some tinkering is still required if you want to be more efficient with your time and filament - particularly when it comes to multicoloured prints.
If you have the spare cash I would get a P1S no hesitation (the X1C is a harder recommendation due to it being quite a bit worse value for money IMO). But if you don't have a spare $1500 to spend on something you're not sure you'll get value out of, the $250 option is fantastic entry point that isn't so bad you'll get the wrong impression of the hobby.
I've got the P1S and I've had none of those issues. Bed adhesion on the gold PEI is amazing, almost too good.
The only issues I've had are sagging on some overhangs due to heat and some AMS retract faults.
I've rarely had a print fail.
I'd strongly recommend the P1S with AMS if you want an enclosed core-xy machine that can do multi-color printing.
I own one of these printers, happy to field any questions as I have put many rolls through it and experience with 3D printers. Big let down on this one is lack of a filament sensor. Easily fixed with Octoprint though.
What's the best things you've printed?
Great question! I have modelled a few things around the house to help with organisation. For example, the missus has powders that she uses when doing her nails but they're messy and didn't come with a case, so I put a "kit" together and printed it. Similarly, she has these reusable makeup remover pads that end up all over the house, so I modelled a holder and now they have a home!
Make up pad holder: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/e3e7e12cc15ca72ce8f92e1f/w…
Resin powder kit: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/f440e14b9852e30ea552384f/w…
I’m keen to get into beginner level printing. Where did you read up on how to start and what to buy? Also information on stuff like ‘octoprint’
You're much better off stretching your budget and getting a Bambu Lab A1 or A1 mini. Ender 3s are cheaply made, are extremely slow relative to newer designs, and take a lot more tinkering to get prints to look good.
The A1 minis are already roughly
triple the price of this though :( I want to get into 3d printing but that price difference is substantial. Are there any other better alternatives closer to this price?
@artoria012: A1 mini by itself is $489, you might have been looking at the combo with the AMS for 4 colour printing.
@artoria012: You can get a neptune 3 pro for $330. Auto bed leveling, metal rails, and klipper preinstalled. Much larger than the bambu and more open.
@artoria012: Another option i'd throw in is an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. Similar to this with direct drive and auto bed leveling, but also has a filament runout sensor to pause printing if the filament runs out.
gravelc has good points, but for $249 - it's a very cheap entry into the hobby with most of the frustrating parts of the hobby taken away. Bambu make great gear, if you can stretch - you definitely should. I get a kick out of stretching cheap gear to its limit.
Prusa do great introductory videos on models and slicing etc on their YouTube channel, even if you don't own one of their printers. Also check out Makers Muse, Thomas Salanderer, 3D printing Nerd, CNC Kitchen, just to name a few good ones on YouTube.
Edit; Prusa have a free eBook here;
https://www.prusa3d.com/en/page/basics-of-3d-printing-with-j…
Fixed via adding a hardware sensor? I don't see how Octoprint software could detect it?
Because the SE doesn't support host commands into octoprint (yet) - but if you get an aftermarket filament sensor and put it on the gpio pins of your raspberry pi, you can pause the print when filament runout is detected.
Filament sensor as in a filament run out sensor?
For a discount price I wouldn't mind that part. I've got a Sovol and it comes with one but I don't use it. It has a small bit of filament permanent in mine just so it runs. When you're a "muck around" or small scale printer like me you don't need a sensor to know that roll with over 500g left isn't going to run out printing a 50g object …
Yes, apologies - filament runout sensor. I am spoiled by the Prusa printers at work, their filament sensors mean no waste between rolls.
What filament sensor?
This is supposed to have a filament runout sensor.
Bought an Ender 3 v2 3 years ago and never took it out of the packaging, got lazy :D
Tempted to get one of these because it has new features and less setting up required lol
It doesn't have a filament runout sensor. Where did you see that?
@chromium: Can definitely confirm, no filament runout sensor. This thing will just continue to print air if it runs out
@McScotty: Pretty easy to add one right? I know nothing about 3D printing due to aforementioned Ender 3 V2 still in the box :D
Planned on getting into it doing mods, etc. Looks like the some of the mods I was going to do are baked into the V3 SE
Might pop down to Jaycar and grab one tomorrow and either sell or give away the V2
@chromium: Easy IF you're comfortable with some advanced IT stuff. You're going to need to set up a raspberry pi, set up a server, give it a dedicated IP address on your network and do some configuring. This is all very well documented and there are zillions of videos on YouTube for the process though.
Or just accept that sometimes you're going to have to guess what's left on your roll and roll the dice.
@chromium: Or just buy the sensor for $20
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006421094868.html?spm=a2…
@munecito: the sensor just makes a LED switch on, doesn't look like it will pause the print or anything
@alex4pt: The sensor is arriving today. It said that it is the new 4 wire version and that it will stop the printer if the filament is interrupted by breakage or because it runs out.
I'll post back once I have a chance to connect it.
@chromium: It works great. But don't follow the installation instructions in the box.
It says that it needs to go into a 3 pin port.
The port that needs to be connected to is actually on a different side of the board.
As per the image in this Reddit post.
https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.…
The only thing that I don't like is that it actually sits very close to the filament roll instead of closer to the extruder. So if the filament breaks closer to the extruder then it will continue.
It supports resume so if the sensor detects a breakage or the end of the roll, then it can resume from where it was once the filament has been replaced.
@alex4pt: @alex4pt It works great. But don't follow the installation instructions in the box.
It says that it needs to go into a 3 pin port.
The port that needs to be connected to is actually on a different side of the board.
As per the image in this Reddit post.
https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.…
The only thing that I don't like is that it actually sits very close to the filament roll instead of closer to the extruder. So if the filament breaks closer to the extruder then it will continue.
It supports resume so if the sensor detects a breakage or the end of the roll, then it can resume from where it was once the filament has been replaced.
Picked one up on the weekend. Nice plug-n-play experience!
I found a filament sensor for this model on aliexpress for about $16 shipped, apparently should have the 4 pin connector, but unclear if the firmware will detect it.
Nebula smart link upgrade can also get it closer to the KE with Klipper support & adds a web cam & G sensor for motion correction, but will wait for firmware with root access before upgrading to that.
My sensor is arriving today. It was that same model that you said but it was $20 on the creality official AliExpress store.
It works great. But don't follow the installation instructions in the box.
It says that it needs to go into a 3 pin port.
The port that needs to be connected to is actually on a different side of the board.
As per the image in this Reddit post.
https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.…
The only thing that I don't like is that it actually sits very close to the filament roll instead of closer to the extruder. So if the filament breaks closer to the extruder then it will continue.
It supports resume so if the sensor detects a breakage or the end of the roll, then it can resume from where it was once the filament has been replaced.
Hi thanks for the info and taking time to setting it up .. could you try too post the image link again as it don't show up
Thanks for the tip munecito!
but it was $20 on the creality official AliExpress store.
Yeah I took a bit of a gamble, but had to use google search to find my link for $16 -> it wasn't from the creality store.The only thing that I don't like is that it actually sits very close to the filament roll instead of closer to the extruder. So if the filament breaks closer to the extruder then it will continue.
Yeah I did wonder about why it wasn't closer to the head.
Someone on reddit printed a custom holder & mounted it on the head via the cable clip, but I think I'll leave it as is until I experience breakage near the print head.
I recently retired my ender 3 pro and got a bambu lab X1C (got really lucky on a deal and snagged the combo for $1200). Couldn't be happier, obviously a different price bracket however the A1 Mini is currently on sale for 10% off which is ~$460 delivered. https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/827607
X1C for $1200? I believe you meant the P1S deal earlier this month?
Nah, i picked up a X1C + AMS via fb marketplace yesterday from someone who got it as a gift and never got around to unboxing it… So glad i held out from buying the P1S at RRP. I was sooooo close to caving haha
That’s crazy cheap, nice one!
@P1xellat3d: Probably one of the best deals I've snagged to date. Having an absolute blast with it. I must say its much louder than the ender3 pro that I'm used to.
LOL, I think most people using an X1C know they're not using a P1S
They are pretty much the same outside of a Lidar sensor
How many printers is too many? And what do you do with so many?
Print more printers obviously.
I had mine for 2 months before I got a Bambulabs P1S. So much less hassle.
me too but I can't help but think I didn't give my Ender 3 a fair chance
I did - spent so much time with it - got Octoprint running on a phone to run it.
Was a good setup but it was slow and failed regularly. The P1S is just so easy.
How well would this print miniatures like say figures for dungeons and dragons or warhammer etc?
Also could you use this to print say a gunpla model?
Go a resin printer if you're printing figurines.
Need a resin printer, personally I like low polly models for NPC's though.
With a smaller nozzle it could do an ok job but you'd want to sand.
For figurines go for a resin printer
Depends on what your requirements are I guess. I pretty much bought an ender3 V2 a couple of years ago for this specific use, but I'm not too fussy about the quality as I mainly use the minis for family games. Despite the difference in achievable quality, I opted for FDM, mostly because I'm a bit lazy, lol, and dealing with the curing and cleanup didn't appeal to me. That being said I was pleasantly surprised with what it could turn out.
Here are a few of my first ones (10 cent piece for scale):
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aozE16o23Ii9PgoKCObTuRN10_Q…
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g2bVtc00ks79GIbEIpkaeum7Et1…
as I said I'm a bit lazy with these things and I have done 0 cleanup besides ripping the supports off (my daughter painted one). With a bit more care and some fine tuning I could probably achieve a better result, but for me they are fine. (and yes I'm aware that I need to dust my monitor, see lazy comments earlier)
If I didn't already have the V2 I would absolutely jump on this printer. The auto bed levelling, direct extrusion and dual z axis would be a great improvement. As others have said though, if you're after super fine detail you really can't beat resin.
Not as lazy as me. I bought a V2 3 years ago and it's still in the box :D
Thinking of getting one of these new ones and actually using it!
Also, your images aren't public
ooops, lol thanks. Images should now be viewable
Very tempting, I started with Ender 3 V2 -> Bambu P1S -> Sovol SV06 Plus, using all 3 but this could be good to add for just cranking out the smaller prints.
Isn't the sv06 plus a downgrade from the p1s?
I got it to do bigger volume prints like helmets/masks that the P1S couldn't. Waiting for Bambu to roll out a P1S Plus and I am all over it 😄
Any idea how this compares to the Ender 3 V2? I bought one 3 years ago and got lazy and never took it out of the packaging :D
Tempted to get one of these as it seems to be much better out of the box and I might actually take it out of the box this time
Yeah this one will be much easier. It took a lot of problem solving for V2 issues when I was learning, and I was spending more time on the printer rather than on finding and designing prints. But I learned a lot by doing it that way, and there weren't really too many better ones at that budget price level at the time.
I have a Anycubic Kobra 2 PRO, and very happy with it.
314.75 with MSJAN17 on ebay.
500mm/s ( maximum )
yep i grabbed the Neo this week for a touch over $200. im not expecting much, bit for that price its a great introduction to FDM printing
Neptune 4. Currently printing parts to make a automatic lego sorter lol. See how it goes if finishing it. Gonna use rpi and conveyer belts with camera and sensors. Stepper motors to point the dropper where parts should go. Don't think I will finish it though. Fun project though
What does everyone get these for?
The concept is fascinating and I love seeing people's creations, but I am curious what the factor that prompts purchase is for everyone? What you guys making and/or designing?
Wow! I'm going to regret asking and then clicking on this… 😬
Yeah, there's some really useful stuff there. A large number of people just print crap, however.
@mickeyjuiceman: Think we all start up printing crap. Then not for a while and suddenly realize something you need and start printing again. Perfect when we had a missing lego piece for a technic model. Just printed the part and good to go 15 minutes after.
The best part is learning to design and print your own things. You'll find all sorts of uses around the house.
tabletop game scenery, movement trays primarily
Anyone getting this or any 3d printer. Ger a bottle of ISO (cleaning spirits) to clean the print bed. Your best friend.
If got it good leveled not often needing anything else then clean bed with iso for it to stick. Tried glusticks in the beginning and it helped. Just messy. Then again, different filament have different settings and adhesive to plate. Start with PLA and ISO. Do few testprints. And have bed level print on usb stick. Slow and It will work eventually. Still learning myself. I am using Cura to slice (make them so printer recognize the format).
People say IPA just kinda spreads grease around a little? Not sure if it's true but I have good results with soap and warm water
Not sure. I clean mine with warm water and soap every week or so. But between prints just spray and wipe with dry cloth. Can definitely see difference if touching plate with hands. Not sticking good at all there. Usually i move prints around plate in slicer to different positions (so lots of prints spread out, but just print one at a time. Start front end as usually touching bit Infront if print)
Homebrand window cleaner, spread around with hand, then a clean under warm water.
For a glass bed, haven't come across anything better for getting off residual PLA or glue stick.
The website also states that its cheaper in store. Also has an in store stock checker. https://www.jaycar.com.au/creality-ender-3-v3-se/p/TL4751
Lastly, offer ends 7/2 for the in store sale.