South Korea Trip Report May 2023

Inspired by this post by eathb I thought I would share my experience from my 10 day trip to South Korea this month.

I spent eight days in Seoul and two days in Busan. Before I left I did up a loose itinerary and the only things set in stone were my hotel in Seoul as well as the hotel in Busan. In the end I did pretty much everything I wanted to but did move stuff around as I went along mainly due to fatigue on certain days.

Weather wise South Korea was wonderful with temps in the mid to high twenties and only one overcast day with no rain. It did feel hotter though as there is very little greenery unless you go to a park and although pretty much everywhere was airconditioned they set the temp to about 25 or 26 so it wasn't much cooler indoors.

As far as language goes I can only say "please," "thank you," "hello" and "one of those please" in Korean and I got by fine. In places frequented by tourists everyone spoke enough English to get things done including the shops and restaurants in and around Myeongdong. I only had to use my translation app (Papago) once to ask for really spicy instant noodles I picked up for a work colleague back home. People were friendly and try and help if you looked obviously lost or just a generally clueless tourist.

I am also early forties so I wasn't into going clubbing or flexing on my socials so that affected the places I went.

Hotels

In Seoul I stayed at the L7 Myeongdong as it is within walking distance to a lot of major attractions as well as Myeongdong being a big shopping district. A lot of chains had their Korean flagship stores in this area and there's stuff to do at night. Myeongdong is very popular with tourists so the night market is a bit dearer than other places but not ridiculously so. Staff in the shops could all speak enough English that it wasn't a problem if you can't speak Korean. Price was about $230/night and the room was smallish but not too bad. Japanese toilet in the bathroom as well. No view of anything interesting. To get to Myeongdong from Incheon you can take the AREX train and subway for a few bucks. You do need to change subway lines at Seoul Station but you will find there are no lifts to get down to the platform for Line 4 and you have to lug your suitcase down some stairs. You can also catch the 6015 airport limousine bus for about $20. The airport bus stops at exit 8 of Myeongdong station to go both to and from the airport.

In Busan I stayed at the Lotte Hotel in Seomyeon as the main attractions in Busan are located on both sides of town and Seomyeon is quite central. The hotel is easy to get to, just change to the subway at Busan station when you get off the KTX. You can also access the hotel directly from Seomyeon subway station by going through the Lotte department store. I paid about the same price per night as the hotel in Myeongdong but this hotel was much nicer if a little bit older and probably in need of an update to the decor. The room had a huge window overlooking the city which was great at night. The Lotte mall underneath was also full of luxury brands for those into that kind of thing.

Getting around

Google maps does not work well in Korea. Use Naver maps but it can be slightly fiddly to get used to. The biggest issue for me was even when you set it to English it won't show some places when you search for them. The easiest thing to do is type the place name + in Korean into Google and then copy and paste the Hangul into Naver's search bar. The directions and public transport stuff works great. When I went to Suwon it even told me how many seats were left on the bus before it arrived.

Tmoney is the card you need for everything. Subway, bus, taxi, airport limousine, some convenience stores all take Tmoney. Buy a card when you land (I got one free with my LG U+ eSim I bought at the airport) and add funds at one of the machines at the airport. They're hard to miss aas you have to walk past them to get down to the train. The recharge machines only take cash though, no credit/debit cards!

Buses are frequent and cheap but if you are not waving them down and standing n the edge of the gutter when they approach they won't stop for you. As soon as you get on, the doors are closing and the driver is gunning it to the next stop. Hold on as soon as you get through the door lol. Announcements and info screens with stops on blue (local buses) in Seoul and Busan were all in Korean, Mandarin, Japanese and English. When I caught a red (inter-urban) bus down to Suwon only some of the stops at Hwaesong Fortress were in English. Get on at the front and off at the back and tap your Tmoney card both times.

The Subway can be a bit overwhelming at first but you son get the hang of it. There is a lot of walking, especially if you're changing lines, and not every station has lines in both direction on the same platform so if you don't read the signage you will end up having to walk back up and around to the other platform. A minor inconvenience but it's annoying at the end of a long day lol.

Attractions in Seoul

Myeongdong: Recommended. Shopping, night market, restaurants. Do your shopping, grab some food at the night market or go to a restaurant. I went to Myeongdong Kyoja for their Michelin Bib Gourmand mandu and kalguksu. There were plenty of locals eating there as well and even though there's normally a line it moves really quickly. There's plenty of other small places in the area including a street full of chicken and beer places.

NANTA theatre: Skippable. I know it's Korea's longest running and most successful show but it just didn't do it for me. It's like Stomp but in a Korean kitchen and some traditional drums thrown in. It was OK but I wouldn't go out of my way to see it.

Gyeongbokgung palace: Highly recommended. The main palace complex in Seoul with the imposing Gwanghwamun gate. There is a changing of the guard ceremony twice a day which is free to watch. Entry to the main place complex is only ₩3000 or free if you wear a traditional hanbok. You'll see plenty of locals wearing hanboks and posing for photos around the grounds.

National Palace Museum of Korea: Recommended. Small museum next to Gyeongbokgung palace with a history of the Korean empire with royal artifacts as well as art and caligraphy. Not very big but worth stopping by. It's free to enter.

Gwanghwamun Square: Recommended. Just outside the palace this square is fairly new and replaced a multi laned road through the city center. At one end is Gwanghwamun gate and at the other with a statue of Admiral Yi Sun Shi. In the middle is a statue of King Sejong the Great. If you go in the doors at the back of the King Sejong statue their is an underground museum about him as well. You can get a photo from one end of the square lining up the statues with Gwanghwamun gate, Gyeongbokgung palace and Bugaksan mountain in the background.

KBO baseball game: Highly recommended. The fans are nuts. They have cheerleaders and hype man for each team and the fans chant team songs which creates a great atmosphere. Even if you don't reeally care for baseball it's worth going to a game. You can get tickets at Jamsil stadium before the game (~$20 along the first base line is with the home fans and good seats) and the home team merch store will be open. There's plenty of food and drinks including beer outside the stadium before the game and inside theirs even more. Stuff like pizza hut and KFC as well as local chains like BHC Chicken, Mom's Touch etc. Prices inside the stadium are the same as a normal store anywhere else. No ridiuclously priced stadium food here.

Namsan: Highly recommended. A short walk from Myeongdong and then catch the cable car to the top. You can go up to the observation deck in N Seoul Tower but I didn't bother as I was going up Lotte World Tower later in my trip. Great view of the city from the top of the mountain and it was about ten degrees cooler with plenty of shade. You can skip the cable car and walk up but it is a long way with a million stairs. I actually missed the cable car station on the way down and was buggered when I got to the bottom.

National Museum: Recommended. Covers Korea's history from ancient to modern times. Plenty to look at and very well laid out. Almost all items had English info.

War Memorial of Korea: Highly recommended. This place is huge and has a heap of equipment including tanks, artillery, planes and helicopters on static display outside. The museum itself is more focused on the Korean War but covers all wars on the Korean peninsula. There's a small display about Australia's participation and when an older gentleman come up to me to ask where I was from and I said Australia he thanked our country and pointed me in the direction of the display. Was quite a nice moment as my grandfather served in the Korean War with the navy.

Bukchon Hanok Village: Skippable. This is an older part of Seoul with traditional style housing. I reckon it's skippable purely because there are are million Instagram thots all taking selfies in their Hanboks and you can't get a decent pitcure of the place without them. There's plenty of little art galleries and cafe's but the whole neighbourhood feels like everyone is there to take a fewInsta pics and move on to the next place.

Gangnam: Skippable. There's COEX Mall with Starfield Library but how many malls do you need? You can take a picture with the Gangnam Style statue and play the song at the kiosk beside it as well. For those into clubbing plenty of places don't let foreigners in and if you look too old you're out of luck as well lol.

Lotte World Tower or Busan X The Sky: Recommended depending on where you are going. If you're staying in Seoul Lotte World Tower is a better choice than going up N Seoul Tower but if you're headed to Busan during your trip I recommend Busan X The Sky instead. Lotte World Tower gives a great view of the city but it's pretty sameish in every direction. Busan X The Sky looks over the beach, out to sea and over the city. It's not as high but it is my preference. It also has the world's highest Starbucks if that's your thing.

Seoul Forest: Highly recommended. An old racetrack converted into a huge park. Plenty of shade and a quite place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Seoul.

Changdeokgung Palace + secret garden: Highly recommended. There are five palaces in Seoul but how many palaces can you see before they all blend into one? Changdeokgung stands out for the Secret Garden. You have to book for this part of the tour but it is worth the extra ₩5000 on top of the ₩3000 palace entrance fee. The garden is wonderful and cool with heaps of trees. Like Seoul Forest it is an oasis of peace in a very busy city.

Hangang Yueido park: Recommended. Come here at night and see the city lit up across the Han RIver. Plenty of food stalls or you can order chicken and beer direct to the park with the help of the ajumma's near the entrance.

Cheonggyecheon stream: Highly recommended. An old highway convereted into a sub street level stream and walkway in the middle of the city. Really nice during the day and awesome at night. Plenty of couples wandering along the stream so if you're feeling lonely I'd probably skip it lol.

Hwaesong Fortress: Highly recommended. Located in Suwon it takes about an hour to get to from Seoul. I went at night and the place is all lit up. You can walk along the entire fortress wall in a leisurely few hours (about 7.5Km). there's various gates and other structures as well as some souvenir shops during the day.

Attractions in Busan

Busan X The Sky: Highly recommended. See above with Lotte World Tower in Seoul.

Igidae Coastal Walk: Highly recommended. This 5km walk is supposed to be cruisy. It is not. there are a heap of stairs as well as uneven ground. If you aren't reasonably fit you won't be doing the whole walk. Saying that though the scenery is awesome as you walk along the cliffs and look towards the city.

Haeundae Beach: Recommended. No waves but a nice place for a stroll along the spacious walkway with the highrises of Busan right behind you.

Haedong Yonggungsa Temple: Skippable. Beautiful temple but it is overcrowded and over commercialised. It's also miles away and a bit of a hassle to get to.

Jagalchi market: Skippable. Plenty of live fish and other seafood like any other fish markt. You can buy your seafood at the market and have it cooked upstairs but the prices were way too high and the stall holders were pushy. This is a tourist trap I would avoid.

Gamchon Cultural Village: Recommended. Plenty of history and a colourful neighbourhood. If you're into arts and crafts and murals and stuff you'll like all the little shops. It is another place over run with people all taking pics from the same few spots though.

U.N. Memorial Cemetery in Korea: Highly recommended. This place surprised me. The gardens are lovely and the place is really peaceful. All the nations that fought during the Korean War have their own section and most have a small monument. Seeing the seemingly endless list of names on the Wall of Rememberance makes you realise what a waste of life wars can be.

Conclusion

South Korea was great and is really under rated. Everyone I told I was going or had been were surprised I picked it as a destination. It seems like not many people even have Korea on their list of possible places to visit. This is great for those who do go as it means there's less western tourists than other places and combined with Chinese tourism not bouncing back yet it is an awesome time to travel to this amazing country. There's also so many more places you could go besides Seoul and Busan and I feel like you could spend a month in Korea without issue.

I highly recommend South Korea as a destination.

Comments

  • You haven't mentioned food / dining out; how did you find it?

    • +1

      I like Korean food so it was great. Most stuff was cheap at around 9 or 10K for a main in less touristy neighbourhoods. As I was on my own it can be a bit harder to find somewhere to eat as some places have a two person minimum. Some will let you order two meals but other places, especially BBQ, will just refuse you.

      I'd just wander along the street and go in somewhere that was cheap, popular with locals or both. Never had a bad meal.

    • how did you find it?

      Type 음식 into Naver's search bar.

  • -1

    Did you do the tour of the M*A*S*H set?

    • +1

      Pfft that's soft. When I was in Noth Korea in 2008 we went to the JSA. Unfortunately JSA tours have only just restarted from the Southern side and places are limited. You can still go to the DMZ just not right up to the border.

      • Pfft that's soft

        Been to Itaewon at 2am ?

        • Bit quieter since their crowd crush last year.

  • -2

    Just a word of caution, it smells like sewerage right throughout Seoul. Septic tanks venting to the streets everywhere.

    Drinking a nice corn milk tea and walking down the street? Sure, have that with a breath of sewerage.

    • +3

      Just a word of caution, it smells like sewerage right throughout Seoul

      A bit like visiting Werribee ?

    • It's not that bad, when walking you get a whiff of sewage once a block or so.

  • This read like a 6/10 with a 9/10 conclusion.

  • +4

    I went in March 2023. I would like to add:

    1. To get around for me, I found it easier to type the name of the place I want in English into Google Maps and work out where the nearest train station is. Naver or Kakao Maps search function wasn't good in English. Kakao Maps was good to get reviews on places you want to eat, I didn't use Naver Maps much, I only took trains to get around. I didn't need train schedules as well, there were trains in either direction every few minutes at all the stations that I have been to.

    2. I had a Citibank debit card, there were no transaction fees to withdraw cash with it at Lotte ATMs, which is in basically most 7-11s. I was sweating at the airport because the ATMs there wouldn't let me withdraw cash and I had no Korean Won when I landed.

    3. Myeongdong was very touristy and things were more expensive there. Hongdae was cheaper.

    4. For T-money, I got the Korean Tour Card on Klook, which was a virtual card and uses NFC on your phone. https://www.klook.com/en-AU/activity/29363-mobile-korea-tour…

    • +2

      Would like to add to these:

      1. Google Maps mostly works fine in Korea - the only issue is that the GPS on Google is really bad so it has no idea where you are - but the search/review functions still give you a lot of great results. I would use Google Maps to find locations, then pull out Naver Maps (perfect GPS even underground) to walk/train there.

      2. The Lotte ATMs have a withdrawal limit of 100,000 won (some are 50,000 won rip), which was very annoying. I walked past a dozen money exchangers in Myeongdong and Moneybox has the best rate for AUD. It also has many other branches across Korea.

      3. I do agree that Hongdae is more "authentic". Also the guides recommending Ewha Womans University as a shopping district are completed outdated - no pedestrian traffic, and literally half of the shopfronts there were vacant. Itaewon was really quiet too.

  • +1

    Kakao maps is great for the train - even tells you the best carriage/door to change train or exist so you minimise your walking along the platform

  • Thanks for sharing

  • +1

    Fantastic report, tyvm for sharing it. I just wished you elaborated more on street food. I love watching YT videos on it but have yet to hear from Westerners what they think of it! I was over there back in 2002 for the World Cup when I was living in Japan but I only had one meal, McDonalds, and then breakfast at the hotel, before flying back for school the next day. I would love to go back!

    • +3

      Tteokbokki: Little cylindrical rice cakes in sauce. They range from not spicy at all to very spicy. I didn't really find these particularly appealing. You'll also find these rice cakes on skewers with mozzarella cheese which are hen grilled. I'm not a huge mozzarella fan but these were OK.

      Bungeo-Ppang: Fish shaped pastry with tradional red bean paste filling although Nutella was also pretty common. These were a nice little warm snack. More common in winter but you can find them year round in tourist places.

      Gyeranppang: Better known as egg bread. Pancake batter base with a whole egg on top and then browned. These are really nice.

      Dakgangjeong: Korean fried chicken in a cup. Korean fried chicken is amazing and I never had a bad meal eating it. You can get a small cup right through to a huge bucket with a variety of sauces or crispy coating. You can't go to Korea and not eat fried chicken lol.

      Kimbap: Looks like sushi but slightly different. This is a great snack you can pick up almost anywhere and comes in a million different varieties of fillings.

      Hotteokk: Pancake folded in half with honey, sugar and nuts or seeds. Amazing.

      Bindaetteok: Mung bean pancakes: Nicely fried on both sides these usually have meat and vegetables in them as well. They were OK but not near the top of my list for street food.

      Eomuk: Fishcake on a skewer served with a cup of broth. This is probably the most common street food you'll see. It's not particularly fishy but is nice and warm on a cooler night. I didn't mind them but it didn't wow me with flavour either.

      Mandu: Delicious Korean dumplings. You can get them steamed or fried as well as in a soup like kalguksu. Mandu cme in all different flavours but kimchi and pork are most common. I could live on mandu haha.

      Soondae: Best not to know what this is before you try it lol. It's a sausage made of intestine and stuffed with rice, glass noodles and pork blood. On it's own it tastes kind of weird and spongy. It's one of them things you have to try but I wouldn't exactly go looking for a big serve of it to chow down on.

      Kkwabaegi: Donut twist, fried and covered in sugar and cinnamon. Pretty much a big cinnamon donut. Delicious.

      • +2

        A second opnion on some of the Korean street food (I went in April):

        Tteokbokki: As a tteok fan, I'll say the bigger the rice cake, the chewier, and the chewier, the better - you eat these for texture. Korea has giant ones :P

        Gyeranppang: The bread is sweet so it's weird, also its mostly been sitting on the hot plate so the egg is WAY over done.

        Dakgangjeong: Usually ok, but going to a chicken restaurant is almost certainly fresher and more juicy.

        Hotteokk: So only when I arrived in Korea did I discover that hotteokk was normally deep/shallow fried - it tastes way better than the hot plate version we get here. There's a famous one in Namdaemun filled with japchae/noodles which was amazing.

        Everything else I sort of agree with, with the added proviso that a lot of things you would expect are savoury become sweet instead (e.g. every garlic bread I've tried), and that the street-cart types of night markets (e.g. Myeongdong) tend to be very touristy with multiple franchises of the same stalls in the same area, and the quality of food can vary wildly.

  • Did you manage to do the DMZ tour with JSA?

    • +4

      No. I didn't do either the DMZ tour or a JSA tour due to both time constraints amd the fact I had been from the other side previously. Everything I have read said the visit from the Southern side is much more controlled and regimented. When I went from the Northern side it was pretty relaxed and all we got told was not to make sudden moves towards the actual border line. On the southern side there are a heap of restrictions right down to what you wear etc.

      If you haven't been I definitely recommend doing a JSA tour if at all possible as you visit Panmunjeom and can step inside the DPRK (North Korea). A DMZ tour is nowhere near as good because you don't actually go into the DMZ you just look into it. If the choice was JSA or DMZ tour then there is no choice, JSA every day of the week. If the choice is DMZ or skip it entirely it's a bit harder but in my own case I would lean towards skipping it entirely from all the reviews I've read. If you have never been before I imagine the DMZ tour would be OK.

      • Slightly off topic, but have you been to the USA since travelling to NK/post-2017?

        Curious what the visa interview process is like since they no longer let people who've been to NK simply get an esta

    • +1

      Not the OP, but when I went to Korea in April, DMZ tours left Seoul before 4:30am, arriving at the DMZ before 7:00am in order to wait for tickets (limited at ~1000/day iirc), which might only allocate you an afternoon session at 1pm. If you are unlucky, your bus might not get tickets at all.

      I didn't end up going as it was too uncertain, also who wants to wake up at 4:30am on holiday and do nothing for 8 hours on a bus.

      JSA requires a full day tour (not a half day tour), but I imagine the waiting time would be similar.

      • woah seriously? What company were you booking the tour with? The one I'm considering don't mention anything about 4.30am — I thought the 7am was the time the bus left Seoul.

        • 1 on Klook, 2 on Viator, forgot the company name but they are very well rated and towards the cheaper end - they send an info packet a few days before the tour, and all of them mention that oh yeah btw the 6:20am/7am/7:30am starts are now 4am-4:30am.

          Luckily I had free cancellation for all of them 😅

          You should message them to confirm the actual estimated start time.

  • Thanks for sharing this. Going to S. Korea at the end of the year and I'll be taking notes from the comments here.

  • Thanks for this. I am planning to go in October and haven't even researched anything yet, so this is a lot of great information.

  • +3

    they set the temp to about 25 or 26 so it wasn't much cooler indoors

    This is the case in winter as well. Koreans hate to be cold but they like wearing fashionable clothing. You'll notice they wear long puffy jackets while outside then take them off inside. Even in the midst of winter you'll find a lot of places have the heating set to 28C. If you follow the western trend of layering up you'll be boiling indoors. Might be better if you have your own accomodation with heating controls and aren't staying with Korean family members.

    Definitely use kakao maps or naver maps for getting around. Searching things on Naver will also give you better results. Lots of things won't show up properly on google because they're on non-indexed Naver blogs. Korea is big with monopolies/conglomerates.

    If you like nature and walks there's a lot of great less commercial/touristy buddhist temples you can visit which will be quiet outside of special buddhist days.

    Each region has a specialty dish which is worth looking up when planning your visit.

    Learn to read Hangul. It's only 24 letters with a couple double characters, easier than the English alphabet. It'll make getting around easier with place names and a lot of signs will have European language loanwords that you can sound out (cafe menus for example are pretty much entirely the same words as English written in hangul).

    • Learn to read Hangul

      Interestingly, some claim it’s so easy that you could master it in 2 days.

      • +3

        You could learn it all in under 2 hours and as long as you keep refreshing (something to do on the plane) you'd be decent enough to read it by the time you arrived.

        • Hangul is insanely easy to learn. The hardest part for me was how sounds can shift if they're in the batchim position of a syllable block.

  • Thanks for this! Going to S. Korea this weekend so the skippable sections help narrow down my list. Haha!

    Question:
    1) Is it easy to find an ATM at Incheon airport? I'm planning to withdraw (using my ING card) as soon as I arrive.
    2) I'm also going on my own. Is it easy to figure out if restaurants have a minimum guest number from outside or do you only find out once you step in?

    • +3

      1)Yes, there are global ATMs in the arrival hall. I already had a couple of hundred thousand won in cash when I landed as I live in a suburb with a lot of Koreans and the exchange rate was good. I din't end up using an ATM and came back with about 50K in cash. The only place you need cash is to load your Tmoney card and for street food stalls, everywhere else my ING and Macquarie cards worked without issue. In Korea they don't have number pads on their card terminals so most places the transaction goes straight through but in some places you are supposed to sign on the screen. In almost every case the person working there just drew a line and said it was all good. The only places that actually made me sign were my hotels and the National Museum gift shop.

      2)Not really. There are obvious things that you can just assume you won't be served as a single like BBQ but it isn't always clear. Most places have pictures of their dishes and if it looks like it's a one pot dish you should normally be fine. 혼밥 (honbap) is Hangul for eating alone and should get you some results in Naver or just punch it into google. If you want to drink alone you are pretty much out of luck as there is no real bar culture in Korea and single drinkers are the height of lonely loserdom. Most places that serve booze require you to order food so if you just want a beer grab one from a convenience store and head back to your hotel room.

      • How's the ATM fee?

        • I don't know, I didn't use an ATM.

        • +1

          Came back from S. Korea last week, and mainly used Woori Bank Global ATM for cash. The operator fee is 3,600 won which is around AU$4.

  • +2

    Love that we'ere becoming OzTravelReport. I'm all for it though.

    I haven't personally been to Korea but most of my friends have. I also have a sibling who recently went, and tacked on Japan in the middle of it last minute.

    Not sure why but pretty much all of them have told me that they were quite disappointed. Maybe it just didn't live up to whatever expectations they have, but my sibling specifically said that they wished they just spent their whole holiday in Japan instead.

    I definitely have Korea on my list though.

    • +4

      I think if you go expecting it to be a cheaper knock off Japan you will be disappointed. If you go expecting a different culture and experience you will be fine.

      Japan is definitely more tourist friendly and Korea is a bit harder to get around but I think it holds its own as a destination. I think the two countries just have a different appeal.

    • Of the two I prefer Korea but I think Japan is the better destination unless you know someone in Korea to show you around.

  • @Blokeinhisundies
    Thanks for the Great Write Up :)

  • Great write up! I went in 2010 and froze my arse off in April. Yet inside was always so hot… it was a strange time. Back then with the DMZ tour you could go into one of the buildings that crossed the border and eyeball the NK soldiers. Bloody Seoul Tower… the windows were so filthy it was hard to get a good view, and I got stuck in the lift for 40 minutes going down. I'm not claustrophobic but even I was gasping for air once we got out.
    Good memories thanks for the walk down memory lane. Where I definitely got all palace'd out :)

  • Guys, I need help deciding. We really wanted to go to Busan for the seafood but we're concern on the Radioactive Wastewater being dumped by Japan. I know there's articles stating that it's safe to eat and even had the Prime Minister of Japan trying out the seafood but doesn't radiation take a few years to see the health impact?

    What are your thoughts on this. Appreciate the response.

    • +2

      Not even worth worrying about. The levels in the water being released are way below anything remotely dangerous. Probably get more radiation eating a couple of bananas and nobody even thinks about doing that.

      • Much appreciated with your comments thanks!

Login or Join to leave a comment