Is The Mobile Car Mechanic Being Unreasonable?

I hired a mobile mechanic to do minor car service which involved engine oil and filter change. During the service, he recommended to do few other repairs and provided me written quote. This included over $1000 for parts and additional 4.5hrs of labour.

I was able to secure brand new parts for less than 50% so I provided my own parts and proceeded with the labour. I didn't get additional quotes for labour because he was mobile(suitable for my situation) and I also trusted him based on his review and good work from a minor service.

On the day of repair, he finished work in less than 3hrs so I asked him if he would provide bit discount considering his quote was for 4.5hrs but he bluntly refused. I had no choice because I agreed to that quote. He stated he would send me tax invoice later but despite of repeated follow up, I am yet to receive a invoice. He acknowledged and promised last week but he still didn't sent it.

Another point to note - one of the parts he changed didn't show any damage or wear/tear signs, so I questioned him why he recommended to change it but he just beat about the bush.

Questions

1) Should mechanic have given bit of discount considering he exaggerated the labour quote by 33%?
2) Are 4 follow ups not sufficient for the mechanic to provide a tax invoice?
3) Did mechanic try to rip me off by recommending to change a part which was not required to be changed? This was the most expensive part and had highest labour charge within the repairs.

Comments

                • @thesilverstarman: Must take a genius to decipher what engine oil a car can take, can't imagine how many years of study that requires lol,
                  Listen to yourself. Next I'll consult an petroleum engineer for what to fill up my car with.

                  You're taking everything to the extreme.

                  • -1

                    @TightAl: Not so. For example, a common grade today is 5w30. But not all 5w30 oils are the same.
                    5w30 is just the viscosity of the oil.
                    The oil can be mineral, semi synthetic, synthetic or others. Mineral oil will break down faster, and its viscosity which comes from additives, will revert back to its original base oil viscosity. It is more likely to burn and evaporate, and coat internal parts with a sludge. Semi synthetic is slightly better , with full synthetic always maintaining its viscosity. But some engines and its parts, like seals etc are not designed for synthetic, and must use mineral or semi synthetic. Some components are designed to utilise some friction, and cannot use any form of synthetic. The others are speciality oils that use esters are are only used in certain applications.
                    On top of that, all oils have additives, including detergents, dispersants, friction modifiers, anti foam, air release agents etc. Some engines need some of these, some do not. Eg Diesel engines usually have more detergents, while petrol engines do not. But some petrol engines must have more.
                    Then there is the specification. There are 26 different API specifications. For example C3 is suited for diesels and is safe for DPFs.SN is suited to engines designed for light duty low friction small petrol engines. C4 is for petrol engines with a cooled EGR.
                    Then there are 18 ACEA specs similar, but not the same as the above.
                    If they can be used in motorcycles they will have a JASO spec, while those that can be used in 2 strokes will have different specs.
                    Then there are manufacturer specs as well. Some brands, like some BMW and VOLVO specs for example, are not made by any aftermarket producer for retail sale and can only be purchased from dealers. Using an oil in a car while it is under warranty that does not meet manufacturers specs will void warranty.
                    And then there are options depending on what fuel is used in the car, because there is always fuel wash from cylinders that makes its way into oil, and the oil has to be treated to stop this from affecting it.
                    So 5w30 oil can have 5 different bases, 44 different specifications, plus meet individual manufacturers specs, and be suitable for 6 different fuels.
                    Use the wrong one in a petrol engine, and you can destroy your cat convertor, shorten the life of sensors, start oil leaks by breakdown of seals, block oil pickups, cause internal blockages due to sludge and cause the engine to fail. Turbo life can be cut short, and any sludge can stop oil flow to turbos all together.
                    In a diesel engine, the same goes, but the DPF can be blocked as well.
                    In a motorcycle the clutch can fail as most use the same oil as the engine.
                    So while it may not take a genius to work out the correct oil type, I can tell you that I rarely see people get it right. They get the viscosity right, but that's it. And I have seen many engines seized as a result of using the correct viscosity, but the wrong specs. Most turbo faults can be traced to incorrect oils, same with Cat convertor and dpf faults. Modern engines are not forgiving, and due to pollution controls have low tolerances.
                    then there are coolants. I keep 8 of the most common specs on the shelf. Every engine has different components that need to be protected. Sometimes one metal can cause another different one to corrode so the correct coolant is crucial. The wrong one can cause current to flow through it, and cause aluminum radiators, pumps and heads to fail. I have 6 common brake fluid specs in stock, all different, and some cars can't use some specs. Even sump plug washers are different, with copper, aluminium, rubber, silicone and fibre washers used depending on the oil used and the composition of the sump and plug.
                    In the 1980s, a mechanic could have one viscosity and spec of oil , one coolant, one brake fluid and just copper washers and they could use them on any vehicle that came in. Those days are gone.

      • +1

        Insurance is not nonsense. If a part fails and it courses an accident or results in death, then I don't want to lose everything I own. My insurance covers me if I use parts from suppliers that are genuine, provide quality parts are are suitable for the trade to use. They will always have warranty as well. Even used parts come with warranty and the wrecking yard has insurance that covers them. If you supply a part, I am deemed to be certifying that that part is the correct part, is of suitable quality and I am responsible if something goes wrong. This is why every industry body and insurance companies advise us that under no circumstances should we fit or use customer supplied parts. Australian consumer law overrides other laws and obligations.

    • +1

      We also make money on parts, so you have reduced this guys income as well.

      ripped him off by supplying parts

      Mechanic's job is to perform a service, not to be a retailer. An honest mechanic would charge cost price for parts/consumables (including shipping and storage costs) and make their money on the service performed. If they're able to get it cheaper than the customer but offer it at the same price a customer would be able to get it for, that's reasonable as well. Hiding the total cost behind the price of parts seems disingenuous.

      • +1

        I'm not sure you know how business works. We buy at trade price and sell at retail. I know of no business that supplies parts in any service at cost. To run a workshop, we have rent, power, rates, rent, wages, insurance as well as having to keep our tools up to date, continuing training etc. I have multiple scan tools, the latest cost over 12k, with updates costing 1.5k per year. Everything that goes out of here has to make a profit.
        We have to itemise our invoices because we are providing parts and labour. A restaurant sells items, so its all included. A plumber or builder works the same as a mechanic. If you expect that anyone provides parts at cost you are in for a rude shock.

        • Charging RRP is fine but the mechanics like you actually charge RRP plus 200 to 300% margin.

        • Is that not the reason you charge between $120 to $180 an hour to cover all your costs ????? Plus tax advantages for tools.

          • @dasa: Once again, all trades people charge labour and make a profit on parts. Labour is just one item that we sell, and has its own profit margin. That's why on an invoice it is listed with all other items. I have no idea why anyone expects a business to be providing stuff at cost price - its not a charity. As for Tax advantages, you do realise that we have to actually pay for the tools first? And claiming an expense on tax doesn't mean that you are getting that value back. What you claim is depreciation, which every business claims. If an item has a life of 10 years then you can only claim 1/10th each year, so less than 0.3% actual benefit if taxed at 30%.
            So the labour rate is for labour costs only, with a profit on labour rates only. Our total costs are a factor of everything we supply, the same as any other business.

            • @thesilverstarman: Tell me then why a friendly mechanic I use in the city showed me the, I will call it a catalogue of parts with the cost price and rrp and you are virtually doubling the price why, it is daylight robbery you are on $120 to $180 an hr I am on $45 an hr and you are trying to tell me you have to double the cost price to get by you really need a financer bad. If it is so hard to get by why do you do it, I am on $45 a hr and happy. And another thing why is that you can buy the parts for that price and I cannot unless I am a certified mechanic it is just a rort the parts company are still making money from what you pay so why cant we.

    • +2

      Seeing as you ripped him off by supplying parts, I wouldn't have reduced the price either.

      Rather than bandwagon this bullshit about OP being a pain in the ass, i'll point out that if you provide an itemized quote or invoice and break down into "parts" and "labor", don't whinge when people expect labour cost to cover labour, and not your shitty abstract pricing structure.

      • No different to any other trade. Do you think that plumbers for example dont make money on parts supplied? Or a painter?

        • so that makes it ok wtf

          • -2

            @dasa: Labour only covers labour costs. That's it. Labour is just one thing that we supply. It doesnt cover all business expenses.

    1. No, because "traveling time" and "packing up/cleaning up" time.
    2. Depends… 4 requests in a day, yes. In a week, probably a bit much. Over 4 months… that's reasonable to ask (and unreasonable for them to not get it done).
    3. Don't know, but he might have had a reason. I get this a lot "why did you change that? It's hardly worn…" It's because I know that there is going to be 10 to 30,000km before a mechanic lays tools on this car and it may be ok now, but it's not going to see your next service…
  • +1

    Sounds like OP just lost the trust of a good mechanic

    • +8

      He wanted to charge $880 just for the control arms parts and couldn't even explain to the customer why they needed to be replaced.

      IMO he was probably dodgy, but even if he wasn't, a good mechanic can explain why the work needs to be done.

      • But most customers have no idea of what they are told. If the customer didnt understand, why would they go out and buy cheap ones?

        • I would guess he went with a mobile mechanic because he just wanted it solved as easily as possible. When he got the big quote to fix it up he felt suss but went though with it because of the sunk cost of the inspection. It is possible OP is an idiot customer, but I can only go off what OP posted and assume it is all correct.

          I think with the car jacked up the mechanic should at least be able to physically point out what is broken/worn out.

  • hey OP, btw what car are we talking about? i'll take a guess - toyota make, camry\kluger model?

    • +3

      Neither of these vehicles have upper control arms.

      • ah, missed that he was talking about "upper" arms.
        petrol prado then

        • +2

          Where on earth are you pulling that wild guess from exactly?

  • +2

    Am guessing OP watched every step of the mechanics actions….
    (Nothing pisses tradies off more, than general public being supervisory “Experts”)

  • +2

    That is why either you work on your car yourself or gets taken ride by a mechanic (hopefully not most of the time). It is very hard to find good honest mechanic these days. Lesson learnt?

  • He stated he would send me tax invoice later but despite of repeated follow up, I am yet to receive a invoice. He acknowledged and promised last week but he still didn't sent it.

    Move house.

  • +5

    Friends don't let friends use mobile mechanics.

  • +2

    To me i think you may have lost a reasonable mechanic.

  • I think you did alright there.

    The time, I was under the understanding that they have a book that tells them a rough time it should take to do certain jobs on certain cars.

    If they did it quicker, it’s because they have worked in the same car plenty of times before, or they have a lot of experience.

    I guess it’s like a replacing a screen on a phone, they advertise a fixed price which includes parts and labour. Some technicians can do it in 15minutes, some in 30. It’s still the same price though.

  • -2

    There plenty of people that would be willing to use your parts on AirTasker and other services so you don't get ripped off by them .
    Who gives a #^ about insurance . It part of the con .

    • -1

      until some unqualified and uninsured person stuffs something up and your engine blows up or your breaks fail and you kill someone.

  • Pay it and move on. What else are you going to do?

  • +3

    even if he finished it in 2 hours you still need to pay

    You're paying for years of experience not the actual time.

    Man I am glad i am not working for people because i would lose my cool if i had to deal with customers like op

    Every mechanic i know charges at least 150/hour. OP got a deal and still complains.

  • +4

    Labour charge was close to $300.

    Market rate for mechanics is $125-$150/hour at a drive-in mechanic, let alone a mobile mechanic.

    4.5 hours labour for less than $300 is a steal. 3 hours actual labour is very cheap.

  • +1

    I would have thought that the big advantage of a mobile mechanic is an exact knowledge of the hours provided. You ordered 4.5 units and were supplied with only 3 units of time, experience and skills BUT you accepted a fixed price quote so it's a gray area - be assured though if there were unexpected problems he would not be spending extra time for free, you would have been charged.

    Family member was a mechanic and had an Ampol manual that described the hours required for carry repairs on most common vehicles - that was the fee quoted. My observation was that the job actually took 50%-66% of the quoted time. Hence the actual markup on the hourly rate was 50%-100%. Seems par for the course for mechanics to overestimate the hours required.

    As for the commenter above - like it's not medical science not even close - everybody is a 'professional' these days; and reversing accountability and responsibility for 'insurance' reasons a national pass-time. I cannot fathom your convoluted logic or justification OP either wanted job to fit supplied parts or supply and fit parts. There is no Repco for medical parts AND Repco are mostly NON-OEM anyway.

    My solution, has been to find a mechanic was fair and did a 'satisfactory' job, pay cash and tip them well, and say "I pay you well when the car is running and if it is not you look after me" - the result is "elixe if you phone this wrecker they will do the job cheaper than I can" or "you need the these parts; you can likely buy them on ebay or O/S for less than half of my price so when you have the parts I will put them in" or even "hey elixe it's three bolts buy the part and put it in yourself"

    Finally, living regional certainly limits automotive service operators to rip off indiscriminately, as word gets around. There are still a few that try it on but the locals know. Then again if your car is fancy, or looked like you had the money I would rip you off as well.

    TLDR: Ask around your friends and get, to know your mechanic.

    • Exactly. It becomes a partnership. My customers keep coming back to me. If they have a problem, Ill work late or on a weekend for them.

  • +4

    The question you need to ask: if the jobs had taken him 10 hours would a) you have offered to pay more? b) would he have refused to accept payment above the quote?

    Pondering this might help you more than asking Ozb.

  • +1

    You’re paying him to get the job done, not a per hour rate. The time taken is just an estimate used to form the quote. You agreed to the quote, he got the job done. What’s the problem?

  • Upper control arms? Was that just the easiest part to get to? If the symptom was inside tyre wear it's much more likely to be hubs, balljoints or lower control arms imo.
    Getting a rush job with sand and grit in the joint and being charged more hours was just hicing on the cake. Did the bloke even do a wheel alignment?

  • -4

    It sounds like you've had a frustrating experience with the mobile mechanic you hired for your car service. Here are my thoughts on the questions you've raised:

    In general, it's reasonable to expect a mechanic to adjust their quote if they complete the job in less time than they originally estimated. However, it's important to remember that you did agree to the original quote, and it's ultimately up to the mechanic whether or not they want to offer a discount. It's possible that they included extra time in the quote to account for any unforeseen issues that might have arisen during the repair.

    Four follow-ups should be sufficient for the mechanic to provide a tax invoice, and it's understandable that you're frustrated that they haven't followed through on their promise. It might be worth trying to contact them one more time and giving them a deadline by which they need to provide the invoice. If they still don't comply, you could consider lodging a complaint with a relevant industry body or seeking legal advice.

    It's difficult to say whether the mechanic was trying to rip you off without more information about the part in question. It's possible that they genuinely believed it needed to be replaced based on their professional judgment and experience, but it's also possible that they were trying to make extra money off you. If you have concerns about the legitimacy of the repair, it might be worth seeking a second opinion from another mechanic.

    Overall, it sounds like communication has been a problem in this situation. It's important for mechanics to be transparent with their customers about their quotes, the work they're doing, and any potential issues that arise during the repair process. If you're not satisfied with the service you've received, it's important to raise your concerns with the mechanic and try to work towards a resolution.

    Courtesy of chatGPT.

  • +1

    Tell him that the Goods and Services Tax Act requires a tax invoice to be provided within 28 days of request. Tell him you will dob him in to the ATO if he doesn't provide within that time period

    • It is also illegal to refuse a itemised account as I found out from ACCC

  • +1

    1) Would you have been happy to pay him more if it went over 4.5 hours? probably not. His mistake was quoting how many hours he thought it was going to take.
    2) He should have issued a tax invoice within a reasonable time frame and not have to be asked multiple times.
    3) Don't know. More info required.

  • +3

    OP is unreasonable.

    • +1

      Yep, 100% the mechanic will not take his business again.

      • -1

        her business

  • +2

    My mate is a mechanic who runs his own business and once told me he quoted a job for 3 hours and it took him 8, he didn't charge for 8.

  • 1) Should mechanic have given bit of discount considering he exaggerated the labour quote by 33%?
    2) Are 4 follow ups not sufficient for the mechanic to provide a tax invoice?
    3) Did mechanic try to rip me off by recommending to change a part which was not required to be changed? This was the most expensive part and had highest >labour charge within the repairs.

    1) He's quoted book prices. When I was a mechanic, had a hoist and a lot of job specific tools I could do a lot of jobs well under the book price and I made good money on them for myself and my employer. There were a few that I was slow at and I made less than my normal rate but wore it.
    Would you have felt you got value for money if the mechanic stuffed about for longer and filled in the whole 4.5 hours?

    2) That's really slack of him. He could at least provide a false invoice.

    3) Hard to say without knowing what the part is. What qualifies you to say it was OK? Was it a "while your in there" part? Was it a Renault rocker cover with integral gasket?

    The guy quoted you, you were happy with the price and he didn't charge extra. Be happy.

  • +2

    God I can't imagine changing control arms on the floor in someone's driveway and not on the hoist

    I would have charged $1k for the labour just to avoid doing the work.

    • Not that much difference between hoist and jack for lower control arm though? You are not going fully under the car for lower control arm.

      • You are fully under the car for lower control arms. Upper control arms you are just under the wheel well.

  • +2

    There's a reason why I do not trust mechanics, because most of them are straight up looting normal people

    Best to do the job yourself dude, otherwise just stick to a reliable quality mechanic

  • -1

    Was the mechanics business name Karma Kannics?

    Your non mechanic eyes cannot possibly deem a part suitable for replacement or not.
    Mechanics quote from an industry and state govt approved system. (By the book) Suck it up.
    And you already saved 50% on parts, eating into his bottom line.
    I have a feeling this thread was always going to exist whatever the outcome of getting your car fixed/serviced.
    Just pay up. The work was done.It's how the economy works. You have not been wronged.
    If you think you have, lawyer up and roll the dice. (hint $$$$$$$$)

    Wonder if the mobile mechanic grapevine will rate the OP ?

  • +1

    I had no choice because I agreed to that quote

  • Here are a couple of questions. The parts you procured the EXACT same model and brand he recommended?
    Are you sure that the parts that didn't need replacing actually do not need replacing? Things like UCAs can wear, bend and crack and show little obvious problems.

    If I was a mechanic and factoring my 10-15% markup on getting the parts and someone brought their own, I would first explain that you don't get a warranty on the parts from me, just a warranty on the labour. And then I would be putting my per-hour cost up 10-15% to cover the loss on parts.

    I would be even more reticent to do the work if the parts supplied were lower quality generic brands of the parts I was recommending. After all the mechanic is the expert. It is a bit like going to the doctors and telling them to prescribe you a different medication because you can buy it cheaper elsewhere.

    • +1

      Yep, I can get brake pads at $25/set or less, at the big car parts places- or name Brands there and elsewhere at a higher price.
      Same goes for control arms. If they were cheap knock offs & crack, or fail, the bill will get a whole lot bigger.And the long since gone mechanic won't be riding in on his white steed to save the day.
      He won't warranty the parts supplied unless it was arranged up front and in writing. Next post will be be, I was ripped off because tyres chopped out, or mechanic did not supply free wheel alignment. Or nobody told me…..

  • +1

    OP< you are being unreasonable, your paying for his expertise and training, not his time. granted, he should never have added timeframe to his quote. should have quoted for the job and a pottential clause that if job exceeds 4.5 hours for whatever reason, there may be an excess.

    things go wrong. should be glad he agreed to use the parts you supplied. i couldnt think of any mechanic that would do that

  • +2

    Don't use this guy again.

  • OP needs to stop giving the mechanic a hard time.

  • -1

    Mechanic isn't dealing with you because you're a PITA.

    Sourcing your own parts and trying to negotiate 1.5x hours of labour…

  • +3

    OP you are amazing. You supply the parts, watch him like a raven, deny him an income at his own rate(this guy was NOT slow) and complain about it.
    You have to ACTUALLY be kidding us.

    (the sound of millions of laughing garden lizards)
    Good luck with the next 'mechanic' when word gets out

    "On a separate note, he lifted the car too high using jack and I could feel the bend on 1 side. I could hear squeaky noise now from the rear side (definitely wasn't there before) so I wonder what he has damaged. There is no way for me to prove he caused it." < sounds like trolling to me

    • I'm sure I have read this somewhere before.

    • -5

      You are repeating the same comments throughout the forum and just have negativity on all your comments even in other people's posts. Did you come out of your habitant (sewer pipe) just for the sake of trolling?

  • 1) Should mechanic have given bit of discount considering he exaggerated the labour quote by 33%?
    ^ you agreed to it. if it had taken longer, would it be fair if he charged you more and would you pay it?

    2) Are 4 follow ups not sufficient for the mechanic to provide a tax invoice?
    ^ he should've provided you an invoice within 24 hours

    3) Did mechanic try to rip me off by recommending to change a part which was not required to be changed? This was the most expensive part and had highest labour charge within the repairs.
    ^ not sure. but if you're providing him parts, you're reducing the chance he can make money off you.

  • -6

    WOW this forum is full of toxic people and then we have group of self- proclaimed legendary mechanics who think that charging 200 to 300% margin to the customers for parts is justified because they have insurance in place and they are entitled to this exorbitant margin. This is completely BS excuse and no wonder why people don’t trust mechanics. If the mechanic has insurance in place then they must disclose part price on the tax invoice and also offer same warranty on the repair as offered by the part provider (if they are sourcing the part).

    My previous car had gear related repair completed and the mechanic with physical shop charged $1870 for parts and labour. I know the part price because they told me when I enquired about it at the time of payment. They only provided 6 months warranty on this repair. When I directly asked the car dealer later on, the original part was not only significantly cheaper but also had 12 months warranty. Eventually I got expensive repair completed with half warranty.

    Very few mechanics are honest. Most of them have no shame and leave no stone unturned to rip off their customers!!

    • +1

      yeh most mechanics are ripoffs… and i know and accept that going to them but at the end of the day my time is probably still worth more than what they ripping me off at. I just want my car fixed and cant be arsed going around to different mechanics for quotes/second opinion etc. I just change mechanic each time i feel i got ripped and hope oneday I get one thats trustworthy and stay with them.

      • The whole idea of this website is to save money and I note people jump on deals to make accounts just to get $10 and provide their ID info and selfies.

        This equally applies to other aspects of life particularly when you know that the other party is trying to charge excessively.

        • +1

          Spot on . It seems to me too many sheep accepting any insurance at any rip off quotes and believing its necessary . When without it the job is done the same at a much cheaper price. Yes the risk/reward is well and truly worth it but don't say that to the sheep that don't know anything about mathematics.

    • Well said my friend you hit the nail right on the head with the toxicity from a certain group on this site that are like bullies tough in a group but weak as piss in a single conversation.

    • You keep carry on about this 200 to 300% margin, yet you have no idea of what the parts he quoted cost.And having insurance in place has nothing to do with it. The ACCC and the changes to Australian Consumer Law say that if we fit supplied parts that we are deeming them to be correct and suitable, and we are then liable for them. So if they fail we are responsible to redo the job and supply another part. If they fail and an accident happens because of it we are responsible. And our industry bodies have told us that based on legal advice, that we should not fit supplied parts, because we become liable for them. And the insurance companies that insure us, have advised us that if we do fit them that they will not provide cover in the event that something goes wrong. Our policies specify that we have to keep invoices from our suppliers, and can show that parts fitted are correct and suitable.As far as warranty, we can specify a time, but at the end of the day any warranty is worthless, as a part has to last as long as a reasonable person would expect. That goes for new cars, TVs now as well.
      In my experience the vast majority of mechanics are honest. Its the owners who want to cust costs, and by doing so end up with more problems. They will go to a shop advertising a $120 service, get oil and a filter, and when their breaks are worn the next week expect that it should have been done at the service. They wont pay for preventative maintenance. They will drive around with worn parts and put their family at risk.
      So your mechanic supplied parts that were more expensive than the genuine ones. That might be unlucky, as on a rare occasion that can happen. But there are times when I would use aftermarket over genuine. At one stage Nissan Navaras had problems with timing chains. Replacing with the genuine parts would mean that the problem would happen again. Using an aftermarket double chain kit was slightly more expensive but fixed the problem.
      The mechanics that are more likely to "rip people off" are the ones who are doing work for no profit, and aren't making enough. I have seen this on some who provide cheap Road Worthy certificates. They will often find things that they can replace and make money on. Like cheap parts you get what you pay for.
      And a good specialist mechanic will be cheaper and better than most dealers, who use apprentices most times and charge full rates. I have dealers who will contact me and get me to do some jobs, because their guys hadn't done one before, or weren't confident.
      A good mechanic will save you money over time, and will keep your car in top condition and safe. Same service with a good electrician, plumber etc. Like it or not, a good trades person is an expert in their field, but you will always have people with no qualifications, trade body memberships, access to dealer information etc who think that they know better. And we dont want them as customers because the only thing they care about is price, and do nothing but whinge and complain about things they do not know.

  • OP was it this car you were shopping for?

    https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/755203

  • Hey OP where is this guy based? All the mobile mechanics I have come across try to rip you off by using their own trustworthy parts only

  • You made a mistake of agreeing to the repairs in the 1st place. Never agreeing to the repairs suggested by mechanics immediately (unless the mechanic is your family member) but rather get a few quotes to compare. Once you agree, the rest is history, no ifs or buts. Take it as a lesson n move on.

    How old is your car and how much is your odometer ? If the car is more than 10 years old and your odo > 100k n you plan to keep the car for at least 5 years, I guess it's reasonable to replace the control arms

  • +1

    The mechanic managed to do his work quicker than anticipated. If he had taken longer than the quoted time due to a complication, would you have said no to paying him more? Absolutely you would've.
    He could've stuffed around for an hour and a half but you got your car back quicker also.

    If you're so dissatisfied then don't use him again, but you said it yourself, mechanics are mostly untrustworthy and everyone here has told you that he was very reasonable.

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