Best Used 4x4: Toyota Landcruiser Prado Vs Mitsubishi Pajero Vs Nissan Patrol (Late 90's to Early 00's)

Have recently moved to regional WA and want to look the part so I'm looking at picking up a used 4x4.

Looking to pay upto $14,000 so have been considering the following late 90's to early 00's models of:
- Toyota Landcruiser Prado
- Mitsubishi Pajero
- Nissan Patrol

Also open to other 4x4 suggestions. Have been considering ute's too. I intend to use it for some light off-roading and camping so hopefully can pick something up that already has a rooftop tent or platform for a bed in the back. Not too concerned with cosmetics.

Would love to know what peoples experiences are with the vehicles listed above for things like:
- diesel/petrol
- reliability/common problems/expensive repairs
- fuel economy (will be making the occasional 4-5 hour drive back to Perth, have read that the Patrol is pretty thirsty compared to the other 2)
- auto/manual (would prefer auto so the wife can drive it too, but if this is a reliability concern, or has a noticeable effect on fuel economy, then will go manual)

I haven't purchased a used car before and have read the importance of getting a PPSR check, and making sure the names on all the paperwork matches up with the seller, but I also had a few other questions:
- Is it common for sellers to allow you to take the car to a mechanic to get inspected or do most buyers just take it for a spin around the block and hope for the best?
- Is bank transfer the best way to pay, and what sort of paperwork would I need to get to prove that the transaction actually took place?
- Is it worth considering buying from a used car dealer? (looks to be pricier, but would be easier for me to pay on credit. Warranty option sounds good, but have also read that they are sketchy when it comes to claiming)

Thanks

Poll Options

  • 30
    Toyota Landcruiser Prado
  • 11
    Mitsubishi Pajero
  • 1
    Nissan Patrol
  • 3
    Other 4x4
  • 21
    Toyota Camry

Comments

  • +2

    At that age id probably avoid the Pajero, the pool of available vehicles alone with be much smaller and the chances of finding a good one will be reflected.

    At that price point you will find better value in a petrol, whilst fuel consumption will be up fuel cost, maintenance and repairs are lower.

    Also In my experience automatics of that vintage suck big time, older manuals will get you further off road and be safer and more reliable.

    Might be worth looking at a Hilux Surf, their autos are pretty good, and the wagon style back is a comfortable sleeping option, for 14k you will probably get better value than a similarly priced 4x4 wagon.

  • +1

    GQ Patrol, short wheel base. Make that bad boy walk across Mooney Mooney bridge at 480km/h

    • +5

      Google did not disappoint haha

      • Lol glad you looked it up!

    • Is it sad that i didn't need to Google it to get it?

  • +2

    Patrol all day every day, gu for comfort and less rusting. Much stronger driveline than cruisers. Where are you going in wa (Geraldton or Albany maybe?)

    • +1

      Close to Denmark

      • Nice, pretty cruisy out that way, very alternative. Plenty of good 4wding and motorbike riding in the area.

        • People I know over there tell me Denmark is going the way of Margaret River and outlying towns.Suburb in the bush.
          Not so alternative any more?

  • +1

    Toyota Hilux no need for a v8 diesel if u can some stations remote the cost of petrol is pricey.
    Auto > at that price point the clutch is probs on the way out.
    Avoid mine spec cars

    I own a hilux best purchase ever

    • Auto > at that price point the clutch is probs on the way out.

      Did you mean something in the auto transmission is on the way out? Or clutch on manual?

      • Manual the clutch would be on the way out you wont know the "history"

  • +6

    Can you name the truck with four wheel drive,
    smells like a steak and seats thirty-five..
    Canyonero! Canyonero!
    Well, it goes real slow with the hammer down,
    It's the country-fried truck endorsed by a clown!
    Canyonero! (Yah!) Canyonero!
    Canyonero!
    12 yards long, 2 lanes wide,
    65 tons of American Pride!
    Canyonero! Canyonero!
    Top of the line in utility sports,
    Unexplained fires are a matter for the courts!
    Canyonero! Canyonero! (Yah!)
    She blinds everybody with her super high beams,
    She's a squirrel crushing, deer smacking, driving machine!
    Canyonero!-oh woah, Canyonero! (Yah!)
    Drive Canyonero!
    Woah Canyonero!
    Woah!

    • Get an F Series doll face. A pretty little thing like you can do whatever she wants

  • +1

    You want to look the part?

    Had a GQ with 385k klms on it, TD42 auto with Denco turbo on it..
    it was setup with silly big Rancho lift, body lift, lockers, simexs - the works…
    Great offroad not the best for touring

    bought a GU for more touring with family and towing camper… TD42, custom garrett turbo, custom intercooler, has 386k's on it at moment… Awesome offroad, great onroad..
    Regular servicing on both pays for itself.

    You shouldnt need to spend that much on a 1990 paj/prado/GQ……

    Edit: anything that age will need $ spent on it

  • +3

    Pajero has the best 4WD system and IRS so it won’t be a boat on the roads.

    And who really wants the girls Toyota?

    • but about the only one NOT sitting on a separate chassis.That has pros and cons.

      • Can you elaborate on the separate chassis thing?

        • -1

          Pajero is monocoque set up> (like most cars. So it flexes off road)

          https://www.carsales.com.au/editorial/details/what-is-a-mono…

          Most 4X4 the body is attached via bushed mounts to a chassis.

          • +2

            @Protractor:

            Pajero is monocoque set up> (like most cars. So it flexes off road)

            WRONG!!

            Did you even read the article you posted?

            The monocoque is lighter, so fuel economy is better, and it’s often more spacious inside. Since the monocoque is better at resisting bending and twisting forces, it delivers a more stable platform for ‘chassis’ tuning, pound for pound. The monocoque car will handle and hold the road better than a vehicle with a separate chassis.

            Body on chassis = old, outdated, less safe and less refined
            Monocoque = safer, stronger, more refined.

        • Unibody vs Body-on-Frame

    • In Argentina, married people do not buy a Pajero.

      • +1

        Correct, they buy a Montero.

  • +1

    Anything but Nissan. Personally I'd go a manual Pajero if you can get one. And one with a good traceable service history. Fit a Provent 200 to whatever you get. Make sure it's under 250K kms and the service record matches that. I wouldn't rule out a good honest well kept Mits Challenger PC (even an auto model) with records/history as above. More reasonable quality cars are coming on the market.
    The big Perth dealer JH has a massive range of 2nd hand 4x4 vehicles at the moment. You'll pay more for dealer cars but may get value from better ones for warranty claims.If full time rear leg room is not super essential consider a dual cab or Mux with the 4JJ1 Isuzu engine and low kms.( no timing belts to worry about and bullet proof engines) Check the shocky towers & chassis of all of the cars you suss out.
    If you land on diesel keep up the servicing & oil changes with good oil, and fuel filter as per service timing periods.

    If you can score a well looked after car in the wish list area with matching records/good service history you are way in front. Harder to come by though. If it's an ex farm ute/4x4 & the kms seem too good to be true, or no dealer service records since the first service, avoid.
    Don't go near a Ranger

    • You'll pay more for dealer cars but may get value from better ones for warranty claims.

      What do you mean by this?

      Check the shocky towers & chassis of all of the cars you suss out.

      As someone who's new to 4wd's, what things should I be looking for here?

      • +1

        Shocky towers and panel joints etc Look for cracks around welds or where seam seal is and traces of surface rust stains.
        Underneath look for signs of stress or cracking on the chassis near engine mounts, and spring hangers.
        (take a torch).
        Give it a real good look around the roof on the windscreen too and the roof rack channels. Remember (cos covid) you are going into a market where people have either held onto 4x4s longer, done the big lap, or pulled a block of flats for months.

        If you get a 2nd hand vehicle from a dealer generally they are dearer (cos dealer) but the better ones have a warranty that in some way protects their reputation. The bigger the dealer , the higher price you may pay, but chances are a higher qulaity vehicle. You get zero warranty 2nd hand in your price range with the wish list you have.
        Ask BEFORE you inspect a private car, if they would allow a full mechanical inspection. The answer may shorten your list (it's a gamble anyway)
        If you DO get an inspection, do your homework (reviews etc) to get a decent inspector.
        Your main focus for that should be engine, and drive train (reliability going fwd) and areas where salt may accumulate and produce corrosion issues later.

        For every car on your list google it's name,year,model etc with the words common problems and faults.
        Then see if the service history (on your pick) or recalls has dealt with those issues.
        (There are known lemons out there. )

        • Appreciate the detailed response

  • Patrols and Prados are more popular so prices will be higher. You’ll get a newer/lower km Pajero because of that.

    Twin cab utes are OK but do have their disadvantages over a wagon.

    Chuck an R51 Pathfinder into the mix too based on a Navara, real 4wd pretty reliable (ours has been good up to 195k km so far). Could probably get a 2010 model for your budget.

    Have a look at a few in your budget and pick one you like. Do a bit of research on common faults for whatever you are looking at, but know that the internet is biased towards negative experiences.

    End of the day the fans will say they love their xxx and yyy is rubbish and yyy fans will say xxx is rubbish. Getting somethinn that’s been looked after is more important than an actual model choice.

  • +1

    As for your actual purchase procedure at the end of your post,and avoiding traps, just google the state(WA) consumer dept topics around purchasing a 2nd hand car.
    It's way more accurate and you can ask deeper q's about any holes in the info, by contacting them.

    Put a wanted ad on car sales with your preference of attributes and see how you go.
    I would stretch that budget another $3 or 4K if that's where the better cars are right now.

  • +3

    Poll is quite funny but useless. You won't get any Toyota at the price you want, that will be reliable. It will be a dead set lemon at $14K

  • In the eastern states, we get a 'roadworthy certificate' or 'pink slip' or 'safety certificate' for transferred (bought/sold) cars. Generally this means your car isn't a hazard or safety concern to other road users. Checks basic things like brakes, steering, suspension, lights etc.

    In WA, there is no government mandatory inspection. Just pay your transfers and registration. Onus is on the WA purchaser to ensure they haven't bought a lemon. Keep this in mind

    • Interesting. I thought Qld was being lenient enough for only requiring RWC upon transfers, whilst no annual inspection required for rego renewal unlike other states.

      So, WA don't require any sorts of vehicle inspections at all?

      • +1

        nil, zip, nah dah inspections required in WA

        QLD/VIC: safety check/road worthy certificate required on transfer only
        NSW: annual pink slip check required

        • Explains why WA vehicles are randomly much much cheaper than the rest.

          • -1

            @plmko: WA premier is in China, as we speak. Apparently China is releasing a new EV 4x4 called the Hasty Dog Whistler.
            Slow, economical,very high clearance, very sensitive throttle but only comes in one colour. (White). Doesn't take much to charge it.
            It has a bed in the back with extra long legs .(Don't look under it. Trust me)
            Maybe the WA Premier can stitch up a deal to have China donate (or sell cheap) one EV per every WA ALP voter with an up to date covid vax record and a Huawei smart phone?.

  • +1

    Remember 4x4s are a lot more expensive to buy, run and maintain than normal sedans …

    First Australian released Prados did not come out until late 1996-early 1997. Originally they were only available in 4 cyl or V6 Petrol. The diesel did not come out until a few years later around the early 2000 (I think) . Earlier model prados for sale will be private imports

    The TD42 Patrols are great and reliable but the 2.8 turbo diesel Patrols are underpowered and the early 3l TDi Patrols are notorious for engine failures.

    You may get a high KM 1HZ Landcruiser, either a 70 series ute/troopy or a 80 series 1HZ wagon in your price range but they will probably be not in the best condition. Also the 1HZ is reliable but slow (I know as I own one :) )

    Also there will be diesel hiluxes around in that price range that could be ok. The 2.8 non turbo ones may be around from them.. a reliable long lasting motor.. but slow (Hence the name slowlux :) )

    Advantage of these models of vehicles are that parts are (More or less) readily available and a lot of mechanics are familiar with working on them

    On way to check condition of diesel engine is to get some blotting paper and put a drop of the engine oil from the dipstick on it. Over time you should only have the blob of the dark oil. If the drop separates out into a lighter liquid around the dark blob of oil in the middle it means diesel in the engine oil.. which means the engine is on the way out ….

    Less popular and common 4x4s will be ok but you may have issues getting parts or finding mechanics who are experienced working on them.

    Avoid old model Jeeps or Landrovers unless you have the skills to maintain them yourself ./

  • +1

    Lada Niva

    • I thought they were all given away on Sale of the Century???

      • +1

        Supermarket sweep with Ian "turps" Turpie

  • +2

    For $14k you should be able to find a decent 3.4L V6 petrol 95 series Prado. The 5VZFE engine is bulletproof! No engine is immune to poor servicing, so make sure you get something with proof of good service history. Join the Facebook page "Toyota Prado 90 series | Mighty 90s". Only downside to 90 series is front lower ball joints, unless the seller has proof they've been replaced with genuine ones recently budget to do that immediately for piece of mind! Both the auto and manual are very reliable transmissions. If you can find a good 120 series Prado with the 4L V6 that's another very reliable engine, might be outside the budget though.

    Personally I would avoid similar era petrol Pajeros, I've never seen a petrol Mitsubishi engine go the distance, they always end up burning oil. I don't have much experience with the 2.8 diesel, apparently it was a decent engine provided it was serviced frequently.

    I don't think you'd find a decent GU Patrol for $14k, maybe a petrol but those engines are ridiculously thirsty, even before you go adding a roof top tent. GQ might be obtainable at that price, probably with much higher Kms than a comparable Prado.

    Petrol Prado parts are relatively cheap also, if you buy a cheap diesel then find out the engine is toast or there is an issue with the fuel pump you're in for a few thousand $.
    Hilux is also a reliable choice, as with the Prado, petrol options are much cheaper, utes tend to be a bit more expensive overall though.

    I've had my 98 Prado petrol automatic for 10 years, I did timing belt, water pump and cam cover gaskets at 170k when I purchased it, also replaced the stock suspension with a 2" lift kit. I'm just over 280k now and the only things I've had to replace are brake discs, pads, bake lines, tie rod ends and the usual servicing items like oil, air, fuel filter and tyres.

    I drive it with a heavy right foot and average just over 13L\100km, this is mostly 80km/h to 110km/h driving. In stop / start traffic consumption blows out to about 15L/100km. It's never let me down off road either, both beach and in the bush.

    Definitely get PPSR, and find a service like Redbook who will do a thorough pre-purchase inspection.

  • Camry for shopping in Perth
    Hilux to last till you stop driving!

  • I'd avoid the (rado too. My mum has one(2001) and the brake controller died on it.
    Didn't affect actual braking, but all the lights on the dash came on and speedo stopped working.
    Toyota don't have spares available. Ended up shipping part to guy in NSW who did circuit board level repairs.
    Apparently this is a common fault and very expensive to fix ~ $2K

    • There’s plenty out there that would completely disagree with you. Prados are well regarded, and yes they’ll have their issues but generally as built with Toyota reliability.

      Basing an aversion to a vehicle on one fault is a recipe for not getting ANY vehicle. Anything in OPs budget is going to be well used and likely to have an issue or 2.

      I bought a D40 navara knowing there was a timing chain fault that was ‘common’. It’s been running well and is now at 200k and hasn’t had anything other than a few minor issues and the hundreds of the things around, just like Prados so the faults can’t be that common.

      • This is the view from the mechanic. I agree Toyota Landcruiser / Prado are well regarded along with Nissan Patrols. I'm just pointing out that there are issues getting parts for a 23+ year old car. We couldn't find a "replacement" new or second hand for a part that is common and has a known issue and extremely expensive to get repaired.

        For cars this age, there is plenty of history of common problems and cost to get them fixed.

        I guess you got lucky (and me unlucky).

        • It’s also the difference between failures. A failure of an electronic part can usually be difficult to repair and isn’t often made by aftermarket players you’ve got to take your chances with wrecker parts IF you can find one.

          Mechanical parts are often made by aftermarket businesses because they know they can make them better/cheaper than OEM and there is a decent market replacing them as they wear out or are damaged in use.

          The more you get complex computers into a machine, the more likely it is to have a non economical repair arsons point.

  • I’ve got a Mitsubishi Pajero 09 petrol thinking about selling . PM me for more details .

  • +1

    Personally at that age and location i would be leaning towards a diesel, good well documented service history and under 300,000 kilometres could be very hard to find.

    Nissan Patrols 4.2lt diesels are in huge demand or knocked around and still commanding higher than you would think if you can get one for a good price/condition grab it.

    Either the Prado or Pajero is your best bet but get it inspected before purchase so you know what it may end up costing you in the near future.

    If your worried about fuel economy dont get a roof top tent.

    • +1

      If your worried about fuel economy dont get a roof top tent.

      Or make it easy to remove when you don’t need it.

  • -1

    Toyota all the way. Reliable and common as thieves, so you can always find a spare to suit.
    Mitsubishi is the poor man's Toyota, is you're buying new they are way, way cheaper, the only reason they sell them at all, much like Jeep — they are full of issues in my experience, and not worth the gamble on your being stranded in the outback.

  • Toyota FJ Cruiser.

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