Hi guys,
I designed a HAKKO T12 based soldering iron station which plugs into the Ozito PXC 20V battery. It's super handy and works really well and costs under $20 for all the parts.
Feel free to check it out here: https://www.printables.com/model/419935-ozito-pxc-20v-72w-so…
Keen to hear everyone's thoughts and if you don't have a 3D printer and want me to print it for you, feel free to PM me.
Cheers.
Thanks mate!
You should do some battery adaptors. They are a bit expensive on eBay and Aliexpress.
I think there's already quite a few on the 3d printing sites?
Prob more combos missing than available, but that can be an issue with buying ready made adapters too. Theyre a bit harder to make than this soldering iron because the female connectors on the batteries are not as easy to replicate as the male flat blades on the tools. There is a required 3rd connection with some brands too (temp sense I think, but u can use a resistor override) which is close to one of the +/- terminals which means you sometimes dont have much room to work with for those female connectors.
The one I can never find is a Ryobi to Ozito adapter… I've got like 10 Ryobi batteries and only one Ozito battery…
which plugs into the Ozito PXC 20V battery.
Where does one find said battery?
Bunnings mate. There's always deals going - the 4Ah ones are probably the most versatile.
pretty sure you mean 18v.
Yes, the battery is 18V nominal but Ozito/Bunnings market the PXC range as 20V tools/batteries.
the xl6019 module can only put out 20w. assuming your handle is 50w or 60w it isn't going to be heated well
i've got a quecoo t12-955 and it can be powered by 24vdc as well as ac. i haven't tried but i think you could just wire up a battery directly to the 24v input and it would work
It's capable of pushing 5A continuous according to the spec sheet and I've tested it with a load meter. At 24V, it only needs to drive 3A anyway.
You could wire it up directly to the battery (18V nominal, not 24V as you stated) but as the voltage drops so does wattage and I wanted to push the maximum wattage of the iron to provide better thermal recovery.
Nice job mate
Great job!
Cool!
Please give us a link to a finished product, I have 2 Hakko irons and sometimes need them off power. Nearly bought the yellow TTI brand.
This is a DIY, non commercial project. Have a crack at building it - it's not too hard and it's fun.
I know but my unfinished project list is nearing infinity. Recently walked into a Reject store. They had the Belgian branded battery soldering unit for $10 instead of $25. So I bought all of the stock, offered the local electronics club free soldering lessons as well as the Scouts for their annual Jamboree. The response was so small and the QLD govt is no threatening me with a huge fine offering educational services without a blue card. I had applied for one 15 years ago but after weeks of paperworks I was told they had detected some form of commercial work and I had to re-apply as a commercial operator paying for it all. I also offered one of my Hakko's that needs a new tip but got whizzed off that it was too hard to order a new tip. So the club now received 28k in grant money that got wasted on useless rubbish and I have to dump my Hakko's!!
It took me around an hour to build after printing the parts. If you're handy with soldering and following simple instructions (soldering iron kit) it should take you roughly the same amount of time. If you don't have a 3D printer, I can print the parts for you - PM me.
OP
I like it !!!
Thanks! :)
What material did you print with; PETG?
PLA
This is cool. Awesome work!