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SVBONY SV550 80mm Refractor Telescope OTA Triplet APO $959.99 ($935.99 eBay Plus) Delivered @ SVBony_AU eBay

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BTSR22BTSR20

I've dealt with and owned many of the products sold by SVBONY over the last couple of years. For the price, IMO they produce high quality, bang-for-ya-buck equipment. This scope can be found for $1500 plus elsewhere and compared to other brands, like Sky-Watcher for example, one of their similar telescopes the Sky-Watcher Esprit 80mm Super APO OTA sells for over $3000 here in Australia.

For anyone interested in a cheaper and less fancy telescope their SV503 80/560 ED F7 Refractor Telescope (Achromatic) is a very popular scope and currently it's $467.19 on their Amazon shop using the 20% off so make sure you apply the voucher on the page (credit to Eeples): https://www.amazon.com.au/SVBONY-Telescope-Exceptional-Viewi…

From my previous and current dealings with the company, I am acquainted with some of their staff. They are based in China but to my knowledge and past experience, orders are generally fulfilled from within Australia. I however am not employed by SVBONY (just a satisfied customer) but I'll do my best to answer any questions to the best of my knowledge (when I'm online).

Their online messages through eBay do get answered pretty quickly.

A few of this telescope's benefits are listed below:

Triplet
APO (Apochromatic)
Fully Multi-Coated
80mm aperture
f/6 focal ratio
A great portable size for travelling
Fantastic price compared to the competition.

Also they have:
A 30 day return policy
Free shipping
Customer support from 9am until midnight

There are many terminologies when it comes to astronomy and astrophotography but I've done my best to answer some of the common things I would want to know below.

FAQ:

Q: Does this come with a mount and everything I need to do astronomy?
A: No, this is an ATO only (Optical Tube Assembly) and telescopes at this level and above are often sold separately as many Astronomers/Astrophotographers are upgrading what they already have. A professional mount is not required but can cost many thousands. The SVBONY_AU eBay store sells many accessories including eyepieces and digital cameras which are also 22% off (eBay Plus) or 20% off for non eBay Plus members.

Q: What is an APO telescope?
A: APO, short for Apochromat means this telescope has very little chromatic aberration. Compared to an Achromatic, an APO is generally more expensive to produce, more complex and of a much higher quality, both in terms of visual performance and the amount of coatings on the lenses. An Achromatic OTA's use a doublet (2-element) lens while APOs use a triplet (3-element lens). APO's are generally preferred over the older Achromatic type telescopes.

Basically, the distorted blue hue colours around an object will be less obvious and the object will be clearer through an APO. Lots of information can be found about the differences online.

Q: What is Chromatic Aberration?
A: In short, different colours of light travel at different speeds through a lens and are therefore bent, this is known as dispersion, in the same way that colours of light are bent through a prism. This happens when light moves through a lens and an APO will cope with this much better than an Achromatic telescope.

Q: What is a Triplet Telescope?
A: Triplet's most importantly have a third lens. This resolves many of the above issues and adds a higher quality, complexity, build cost and performance to a telescope over a standard Doublet.

Q: Will I be able to see the Moon, large planets, galaxies and deep space objects?
A: Yes, especially if using with a guided mount and camera.

Q: Does this come with any eyepieces?
A: No, but the SVBONY_AU eBay store sells many accessories including eyepieces and digital cameras which are also 22% off (eBay Plus) or 20% off for non eBay Plus members.

Q: What does Fully Multi-Coated mean?
A: Fully multi-coated (FMC) are considered to be the "best of the best" type of coating. A FMC lens will have more than one layer of coating on all air-to-glass surfaces. It's common for cheap lenses to be simply “coated” and the most expensive and better quality to be fully multi-coated.

Q: What does the name SVBONY stand for?
A: I have no idea but I'm sure it's out-of-this-world!

This telescope would be recommended for someone who is interested in starting astrophotography (or upgrading). You can use it as a basic scope but it's kind of overkill, the SV503 might be more suited to you (link above). SVBONY make many other scopes for many different uses and price ranges. The 22% off is a real bonus and is store-wide on their eBay store. All their scopes can be found here: https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/74927/i.html?_ssn=svbony_au&stor…

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closed Comments

  • +3

    To the moon !

    • To infinity and beyond …

      • To mars

        • +1

          to the neighbours back yard when wife is in the pool and hubby is at work ….

  • +2

    Cindy (sv rep) is a joy to speak with. The Facebook page/group is well worth joining

    I own a stack of sv gear, including their mid range sv503ed gear and an sv48p. Highly recommend. This 550 is an incredible bit of gear for the price, relative to other refractors out there.

    I'd love to give their new mak a spin, haha.

    If anyone is curious what this aperture and focal length can capture, head on over to

    https://www.astrobin.com/search/?q=Sv503 and have a bit of a search around. Or you can try https://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/

    • I have nothing but good things to say as well. It's saved me many $$$ and the SV550 is a solid piece and great compact size.

    • Thanks for posting that astrobin link. I really enjoyed keying through those photos. They're pretty impressive. Is it worth looking into a system like the 550 if you're just gonna backyard it in the suburbs?

      • It really depends on what you're after. Something like the SV550 will require a mount, even a cheap one. With this in your backyard, many factors come into play. One big one is light pollution. For example this is perfect if you live in the middle of a big city and want to look at the moon or Saturn. If you are using a camera and your set up is a bit more advanced you'll still see deep sky objects but the light pollution will be obvious in your photos. A telescope like this is really made for Astrophotography in mind. On their eBay shop there are many types and prices. You wouldn't need a scope this good for looking at the Moon, but it would do a great job of doing so.

  • +2

    If i bought this my wife would refactor our marriage, again:) love it though!!!

  • +1

    Can I spy on my neighbours with this? :D

    Just kidding! Is something like this used for longer capture to get those clear shots of space that we see from amateur astronomers? I imagine you couldn't just set it up, point it at some stars and see anything stunning with the naked eye (like with those astrobin pics that got posted)? Or can you? I have zero idea about telescopes.

    • +2

      only if they shower in the nude with no blinds (or was it with the window open… i forget)…

    • Looking through telescopes you pretty much use it to see planets and the moon. The amazing astrophotography pictures are the result of tracking mounts that move and track objects/nebulas taking into account the earths tilt and rotation, and are usually hours long exposures and/or multiple stacked photos that are then edited to amplify the colors.

      So summary is, you buy this look at planets, you buy a tracking mount to take awesome photos of the nebulas and galaxies, and you can buy an adaptor for most telescopes that allows your DSLR camera to connect to the telescope to use that as the lens to do that.

      • Yes you are able to see through an eyepiece many objects including many deep sky objects. Where things go from great to perfection is when you start taking photos with exposures of 2-15 mins. It really depends on the object and how bright it is. Some people only do visual astronomy while many these days have become astrophotography's as it really is all about brightness and exposer times (something the human eye isn't great at) but digital camera are perfect for. Something like The Orion Nebula is both beautiful and bright, so it really depends on you and what you want.

        • Thanks for the replies.

          I love seeing other people's photos. Good to know a bit of the process behind it. Cheers

          • @Hurg: *astrophotographers and *exposure (expect some typos from me) :)

  • Hi OP. I am new to this, could you help to put up a list of full set for beginners so I can understand what other things need to buy and the total price. Thanks

    • Hi FP99. Are you interested in visual astronomy (through an eyepiece) or astrophotography (cameras etc? The answer to that is a good place to start.

      • visual for now.

        • +1

          To start off with, you're going to need a scope, an eyepiece and a mount. I don't believe SVBONY have ever made mounts. Well not for anything rated for this size and weight. Mounts are easy to buy from a camera store or binocular/telescope specialist. To start in visual astronomy you wouldn't need an OTA as good as this, they sell many others in their store.

          In a nutshell, scope (OTA), mount, eyepiece. They're the 3 things you'd need to start in visual.

          • @IG88: For astrophotography, what other equipment would a beginner need to get started?

            • +1

              @Tink: The starting point is the mount. The most commonly used one is the HEQ5.

              Then there is the guide scope + guide camera
              Software to guide the mount,
              Battery to power all that (if not in your backyard)

              • @BuyoTheCat: The Sky-Watcher HEQ5 is a very good beginner mount and easy to find second-hand. As many people will upgrade if they want to take it further.

              • @BuyoTheCat: Thanks, BuyoTheCat! I'll check it out.

            • +5

              @Tink: Hi Tink. There are lots of levels with AP but if you were on a budget you'd need at a minimum (and for bright objects) a:

              Telescope
              DSLR and correct adapters
              A mount for the telescope (a tripod usually comes with most beginner mounts)

              After that you could easily take images of objects that are considered as bright but if you're exposures were too long you'd quickly end up with star trails.

              There are many cheaper telescopes than this one that come with a mount but are not always best for AP.

              To go up from there you'd need a mount that is capable of electronically moving with the earths rotation. This will give you longer exposures as the capabilities of imaging darker objects increase with being able to accurately track the moving nights sky.

              To go up from there you'd want what they call a guide camera. There is a lot to this but basically you attached a guide camera (normally pretty cheap) to the telescope either physically on it or through an OAG (off-axis guider). This guide scope then basically for the lack of a better words, locks onto a star and talks to the mount and tells it how to be as accurate as it can be to move at the same pace as the sky.

              If you do this well enough and with a mid-range mount you can get a 10 minutes or so exposures. So that's 10 or so minutes of the shutter (in this case) being open, this allows a lot of light to hit the sensor of the main camera. The main camera at this point, because its tracking the rotation of the earth is really just taking a still 10 minutes photo which is a lot of light.

              When you take a photo of a cat, for example that exposure time is a split of a second. With astro stuff, you want to (most of the time) get as long of an exposure possible before it affects you're image… So we're mostly talking about minutes of that shutter being open and from the camera's point-of-view, nothing is moving.

              From around this point things can get even harder to explain and other people have their own methods of basically doing the same thing.

              With astrophotography it can be scary at first and many people can be put off because they don't automatically see what the images on the marketing box have.

              Like anything it has many levels but if someone who knew what they were doing only had a camera, a mount & tripod and a toy telescope, many would be able to take some impressive photos that would impress the average non-astronomer.

              If you want to take it further, you learn more, get better equipment, start taking mono photos with filters, starting tracking stars with better mounts, spend a lot of time on YouTube etc etc etc. A lot of improvements are also done in post using a all kinds of software for all kinds of levels of experience.

              IMO it's a hard question to answer and there are plenty of people on here that would know a lot more than myself. But you can take decent images with basic equipment. It's just like all art the word "decent" can be a bit subjective and there's more than one way to get a job done.

              • @IG88: Wow, very interesting! Thanks for the insight, IG88, much appreciated!

          • @IG88: Hi, which OTA do you recommend for visual?

            Thanks, D

            • @sunnymel: Hi D, for visual and just looking at local stuff within our solar system for example the Moon and its craters, Jupiter and it's moons, Saturn and it's rings, the Sun with it's sunspots (WITH THE CORRECT FILTER) and things like that just about any telescope will do that job. The best people to ask would be the staff through the eBay link at SVBONY as they have telescopes less advanced for a lot cheaper. If you tell them what you want to do, they'll be able to recommend something for your budget and needs. They're really helpful.

  • +1

    good Telescope for Astrophotography….

    I owned alot of their telescope.. including this one

  • different colours of light travel at different speeds through a lens and are therefore bent, this is known as dispersion

    I always thought it was called refraction.
    You learn something new every day…

    • The term for "bending of light" is called refraction. So you're not wrong but dispersion is more commonly used in astrophotography. There would be many forums explaining the complete scientific differences of the two. This type of telescope is by right, called a Refractor.

    • +1

      refraction is when all the light bends due to a change in speed, dispersion is when the change in speed (and hence the benditude) varies by frequency

      • refraction is when all the light bends due to a change in speed

        All the light is bending in the telescope lens.

        That's why it's called a Refractor telescope.

        • -1

          don't need a telescope to see black holes, the densest object in the universe is jv

          • +2

            @abb:

            the densest object in the universe is jv

            probably because I matter so much to you…

        • +1

          Maybe this alternative way of explaining would help - when a beam of light is refracted uniformly, it does not separate into different wavelengths.

          When it splits up into all the colours of the rainbow (like the Pink Floyd album cover, basically) then that is called dispersion.

          All dispersion is refraction but not all refraction is dispersion.

          • @cannedhams:

            when a beam of light is refracted uniformly

            Can that happen?

            • @jv: Now now, we all know you spend a bit of time in front of the mirror.

  • Have read some good things about this scope. The optics quality bats well above the price.

    Want!

  • Is this better then the Skywatcher 250p?

  • The 250P is a completely different kind of telescope. This is a refractor, the 250p is a dobsonian reflector (it uses mirrors and is large and hard to move around). Both have pros and cons. This is more complex and focused on serious astrophotography. The 250p (as it is) is mostly for visual (looking through an eyepiece).

    • I see thank you for your help sounds like 250p for me. Just wanting to look at things

      • It's a place to start either way.

      • +1

        You can take photos with the 250p, but it is limited to single exposures. (Which can be quite good)

        There isnt much more to spend after buying the 250p dob. It is pretty much ready to do viewing.

        With this scope, there is still at least another $1000 on a mount that can track (match the earths rotation) and $100-200 for bits and bobs.

  • No ED glass element in this triplet 'APO'? Not even FPL-51? I don't know any proper APO's that are not fully multi-coated, is it even a selling point for an APO?

      • FPL-53 triplet for $959?? How confident are you with what they're telling you? I'd seriously take it with a grain of salt.

  • Saw some pretty good reviews for this scope.
    I only have the SV503 (70mm) though.

    • are you using it for visual or AP ?

      • +1

        AP mostly. 70mm has fringing, but can be fixed at post.

        • 70mm has fringing, but can be fixed at post.

          oh! at least it is better as you can correct it.
          Do you also use the flatner ? I heard that 70mm flatner is a pain to use.

  • Is the 503 worth it? I sold a dob in lockdown, wanst getting the use due to its portability.

    • It's OK. I have the 70mm, and I get fringes with my DSLR (can be removed post).
      I watched a video that showed that the 70mm is great with monochrome and filters.

      • Personally I never took pictures. Just private viewing. The dob was too big to move around so never got used. I want something smaller, something I can take in the car if needed. I have lots of eyepieces, just no scope anymore. This deal reminded me to start looking again.

  • +1

    Is the earth still flat?

  • +1

    I have SV503 80mm with SV193 flatner, but couldn't test it yet. I got it for $543 during xmas deals (SV550 80mm is too expensive for me though).
    Anyway, I am impressed by the SVBONY products, pretty worth for the price.

    Also got SV106 60mm guide scope and I got this photo only with that.

    • +1

      Nice, very sharp!
      Is this stacked or single?

      • imaged with ASI120MC-S and stacked with AS!3 :)

    • +1

      The SV503 is still a great scope!

  • +4

    This has a focal length of 480mm. It isnt long. It’s main purpose is wide field astrophotography on an equatorial mount with tracking to match the earths rotation.

    A mount would cost you about $1000. That is what you need to get started, assuming you already have a digital camera.

    How astrophotographers usually use this is:
    Put it on the mount,
    Attaching a guide scope to the telescope,
    Have a guiding camera on the guide scope.
    Use a computer to guide the mount, based on what the quiding camera sees .
    Take as many frames as allowed by weather conditions
    Put it through software to stack and process the images taken

  • The SVBONY SV503 Telescope 80ED F7 is $467.19 at amazonAU.

    There is a 20% discount voucher on the description page.

    https://www.amazon.com.au/SVBONY-Telescope-Exceptional-Viewi…

    • Thank I'll update the description.

      • Is this 503 suitable just for home viewing or is it overkill? I just want to look at planets with the kids. We try globular clusters and they look great but would they be too dim in this tube? We generally try to find the objects by ourselves, no computer.

        • For the price and if you have your own mount and eyepieces the SV503 is a very high quality scope value wise. As far as clusters go, it really depends on size, brightness, eyepiece and light pollution/where you live. For a smaller GB you may want to also use a Barlow to increase it's size.

        • *GC I meant. Local stuff like the planets can be quite small compared to the Moon so a Barlow is always a useful piece of kit, it will just sacrifice the brightness of the object while making it larger in size.

  • Currently $830.39 after 20% discount using code BTSR20 :).

  • O……..too late to buy now

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