• expired

20% off Auto Openers Garage Door Openers (Roller Door & Panel Lift Openers) @ National Garage

160

Hi guys, after some feedback on our last sale we're moving more towards the DIY-friendly hardware. All specific models on sale are listed below. We've also got some YouTube videos showing how you can install these openers yourselves. Any questions, I'll see you in the comments!

Roller Door Openers:
Auto Openers Door Master
YouTube Installation Guide

Panel Door Openers:
Auto Openers Sectional Opener
YouTube Installation Guide

Accessories:
PE Safety Beams
Remote Control For Keyring
Remote Control For Wall
Receiver Upgrade Kit - This is fantastic for when you have 2 motors,but only need to replace one. Allows the second opener to work on the same remote controls.

Related Stores

National Garage Remotes & Openers
National Garage Remotes & Openers

closed Comments

  • Do any of the panel lift openers have built in wifi?

    • +2

      Not as of yet. I believe it's something the manufacturer is looking into.

      Generally speaking, the openers that have the built in wifi capabilities just have the price slapped on top - E.g. $100 motor that has a $50 kit is going to be $150.

      If you want to operate either of these from your phone, the best option is going to be the iSmartGate gear. Best way to explain the difference is that any smartphone kit made by a manufacturer, has been made by people who make garage doors. As long as it opens the door they consider the job done. So by the time you unlock the phone, open the app, connect to the door, press the button, wait for it to open… You may as well have opened it by hand.

      The iSmartGate gear is made by people who make apps. You can hook it into your assistant so you just need to say "Siri, open the garage door". I'll pop the links below.

      Lite Roller Kit - Connects to one gate or roller door opener
      Pro Roller Kit - Connects to three gates or roller door openers (extra sensors needed)
      Lite Panel Kit - Connects to one panel or tilt door opener
      Pro Panel Kit - Connects to three panel or tilt door openers (extra sensors needed)

  • +1

    Old school. Where's the network enabled systems that allow me to use my home automation.

    • Available from JB HiFi. I have one of these and it is brilliant.

    • +4

      Popped a large reply to the above :)

      Being a tech geek within the garage door industry, yet to find a first-party smart kit I'm impressed with. Almost always better to get a third-party kit as the inclusions and features are better.

    • Where's the network enabled systems that allow me to use my home automation.

      Hey google, open the garage door.

      • That's how I open mine at home. I grabbed one of the iSmartGate kits to test, hooked into my Pixel 6 and the wife's iPhone number something or other. Haven't really had an issue yet.

        I fiddled around with the GeoFencing operation but I ended up turning it off. I live in the sticks so the reception is a little spotty and kept opening the door when I was home randomly.

        • That's how I open mine at home.

          and the burglar entering your property…

          • @jv: Interestingly, the Google assistant is tied to my voice. If it thinks someone else is opening the door it asks for a pin code.

            I have the Google Nest and Hubs around the house as well, which ask me to repeat myself if it doesn't recognize the voice that is asking it to do things. Was bordering on aggravating when I was sick with the flu earlier this year, croaky voice meant that Google refused to listen to me at all.

            • @GrecDeFreckle:

              the Google assistant is tied to my voice.

              Most people won't have set that up that way.

              • @jv: I don't remember setting it up to be tied to my voice, I thought it must have developed that over time. Interesting.

                However, the pincode is a required part of the setup for the iSmartGate app.

              • @jv: Bruh, that's standard when setting up google assistant.

                I appreciate what you're trying to say, but it's a weird complaint that's been a non-issue in Android for over 5yrs.

  • +1

    I have a fob in my car, no apps to open, and one at home …. then to lock rather than just open garage door physical key is on ring with my car key ……

  • If i want to pick up is it any cheaper? As included postage wouldnt be required?

    • +1

      We're located in North Albury - Depending on where you are it could be a fair bit of a drive :)

      • 2640 here as well, hence the question

      • ?

        • +1

          Sorry Slim, had to wait for the boss to get back from his meeting. Give us a call and I'll look after you :)

          • @GrecDeFreckle: Ill pop in ~3.30pm and ask for Grecdefreckle lol

            • +1

              @slimdealin: Just ask for the bloke from OzBargain… Jordyn at the reception will know what's going on!

            • +1

              @slimdealin: Great to see you this afternoon mate, if you have any questions about the opener feel free to give us a call!

              • @GrecDeFreckle: Thank you will do. Will be fitting it up this weekend after I watch your handy video.

  • Hi OP,

    I have an aged ATA GDO2 motor that decides on random occasions to stop part way through the door raise operation. Its likely been there for ~20 years when the original owners built the house so thinking it could be time to replace.

    Do you know what would be a suitable option to replace this with?

    Cheers

    • +2

      Before you buy a whole new motor, I'd recommend putting the door in manual mode by using the pull handle and trying to lift the door by hand, if it's hard for you to lift, itll be hard for the motor to lift, in which case a door adjustment and re-tentension would do more for you than a new motor.
      If you lift it by hand and it goes up and down smoothly and easily, then you could try adding a bit more force on the motor by turning the flat-headed screws on the back side of the motor, labeled up force and down force. If it still acts up after this then it is more likely to be an electrical fault.

      • +1

        Also, if it is hard to lift and needs re-tensioning, I'd advise against trying to DIY this as there is alot more tension on the springs than alot of people realise.

        • My door has these giant springs that look scary to remove/disconnect… do you or OP or anyone know how would I go about removing them safely?!

          • +1

            @Ultraman: If you mean to test the door manually, you dont need to touch the springs for that, there should be a pull cord near the motor hockey stick (where the door joins up with the motor rail). Usually just pulling that down should release the door from the motor so you can lift it manually. To reconnect the door, pull the rope towards the back of the motor. You might need to press the button on a remote for the door to re-engage into the motor sled.

            • @messej: This. Mine works in this way re the manual override.

            • @messej: Yes, I think that works, but I'm considering replacing my door and getting rid of the springs as the bolt and nut in one of the arms is wearing out after about ~40+ years and I'm wary that it could snap at any time and there would be a giant spring released in somebody's direction!

              • +1

                @Ultraman: I’d recommend calling someone to take a look at them then. I really wouldn’t advise you to try this yourself, I’ve been to a job where someone attempted to work on their springs themselves and they had shot a ratchet straight up through the plaster ceiling and out of the tin roof and it ended up landing in the neighbours yard.

                • @messej: Yeah, I was thinking it could be mighty dangerous and that sounds about right lol

  • +1

    Hey mate,

    Going to be the Sectional Opener for sure. The old GDO2 suited smaller doors and was very loud when opening. If it's stopping at random points rather than the same spot every time, I daresay the circuit board is on the way out the door.

    Replacing it is pretty simple, remove all the old hardware and install with the new hardware that comes with the opener. You can check out the video guide if you want more information.

  • Hi,

    Ive got a 4.8 x 2.2 tilt door. Will the sectional motor work with this setup ? Is there any further considerations i need to be aware of ?

    • Hi mate,

      Whilst the door size can be handled perfectly by the Sectional Opener, the only thing you'd need to really check is the backroom. As long as you have 3.2m of uninterrupted ceiling space back from the door, you'll be fine.

  • Do the PE safety Beams work for any brand of garage opener? I have a Merlin opener on my roller door and have been thinking of adding safety beam.

    • It's a good question! I've only tested them on Auto Openers motors, but I can't think of why they wouldn't work on the Merlin openers. We do have the 774ANZ PE Beams which are made by Merlin.

  • Which remote works with the ptx5v1?
    I can see the ptx4 and the v2 ones

  • Hi OP, looking at the Merlin MS105MYQ for my tilt doors, as the current Merlin openers are ridiculously noisy, will this product be any quieter?

    I know it's not on sale at present, but I'd rather stick with a known brand, unless you can really vouch for the on-sale one.

    • +1

      Just having a read over the Merlin website. I'm 99% sure I remember seeing the Decibel rating the opener ran at, but that seems to have been removed. I don't even have it on our merlin garage door openers website, either.

      Look, both openers are very quiet - I can't honestly say if one was quieter than the other. I can say that the Auto Openers gear has been extremely reliable over the years, with a DIY-covered warranty. Merlin gets a little funny when you self-install their gear, but that's usually a fight I win with them when it comes to warranty claims.

      Most new, modern openers are all so quiet that the majority of the noise is going to come from the door itself. I've got the older version of this opener on a B&D Panelift Icon door at home, with my office backing onto the garage door wall. If I have quiet music playing, I'll hear the wife's car door close and not hear the garage door or the opener. This is partly due to the opener, but 60-70% due to the type of garage door and that it's been relatively well maintained.

      • Thanks, I'd definitely get my local garage door guy to install it! Will consider the Auto Openers one…the current devices work fine besides being noisy, but the remotes are almost dead so may as well replace the whole lot.

  • Hi OP,

    I'm considering buying an AutoOpeners garage door opener. Can you please tell me the difference between this Door Master model and this Roller Opener model? And why it is presently about $110 cheaper when on paper it seems like it has a stronger motor (650N vs 600N peak power)?

    • Hi mate,

      Sorry for the late reply! Ok, so kind of a long story, will try to shorten as much as possible.

      Automatic Technology Australia (ATA) made the Roller Opener (AORO) under licence for Auto Openers. The Roller Opener is essentially a GDO6v3, with different remotes and a few tweaks under the hood. The Door Master (AODM) is the first party opener made by Auto Openers

      This means that the AORO attracted a pretty high price point, as there was a pretty high price on them. Auto Openers then decided to make their own opener around the same time and slowly phased out the AORO. From what I understand, the AORO is no longer being made by ATA, but Auto Openers has a fair few on hand as everyone worked out exactly what you did - The AODM is the stronger unit with fewer power restrictions.

      Mildly unrelated, but of some note:

      ATA / B&D have also been on an interesting price spike since 2019, as the Japanese giant Nippon bought Dulux (and along with it B&D / ATA). Part of this would be related to the Covid crisis, but the price increase % is way more than, say, Merlin. Food for thought.

      • Are you sure the AODM is a first party opener made by Auto Openers? It seems awfully similar to LIFTAWAY LA-RDO1, down to the port for an external backup power pack, and the way you configure the system and pair the remote controls.

        • Yes, 100% sure. Sorry I didn't get to you yesterday, I wanted to do some research and answer you properly rather than saying "yes plz trust me thanks". The outer case is the same, however, the board and internal components are all different. This is why they use different remote controls :)

          I asked the same question when I saw the unit for the first time. Long story short, it's cheaper to licence the mould for an existing case rather than develop a new one. Instead, Auto Openers upgraded the electronics and performance of the opener.

          Liftaway is very vague on the door size the opener can handle, stating "single or double domestic". The AODM is advertised to handle 18m² doors, which is up to a triple-width garage door. The manuals are also very different: Liftaway vs Auto Openers

          I think this shows in the warranty period as well, with the LA-RD01 only having a 3-year warranty. Liftaway is also super vague on their warranty terms - "Our range of openers come with a 3 year warranty that covers any electronic failure resulting from reasonable usage of the product". However, reasonable usage is not defined. Coupled with a vague definition of the suitable roller door size, it's a bit of a dice roll (in my personal opinion, not reflective of the company National Garage's views, etc).

          The AODM has a standard 5-year warranty, or a ten-year warranty if you get the door serviced every year (which competes with B&D Doors 10 year warranty).

          Finally, I'm not sure if Liftaway roller openers are still stocked or current - It looks like Liftaway themselves are out of stock and a lot of their stockists are as well, so they must have been out of stock for a while?

  • Hey Grec,

    I'm keen to pick up one of the roller door openers (AODM). I've checked the manual though and it claims it needs a clearance of 85mm "minimum sideroom". I'm measuring my space at 80mm. Am I basically s**t outta luck?

  • G'Day mate,

    If you want this to work, we can make it work, but it's going to be a bloody tight installation. The motor only requires 45mm from the curtain (edge) of the roller door to the motor. Whilst it's then recommended to be 85-90mm to the edge of the bracket, you can get around this a little.

    Let's say we're working on the right-hand side, inside looking out. I'm assuming we're working in very tight installation space, with the wall or a beam very close to the RHS of the door.

    1. PROP THE DOOR. Super important; either using a ladder or something sturdy ensures you can have the middle of the door COMPLETELY supported as it sits on the opening. Using a mate or two won't hurt either as they can steady the door.

    2. Our installers secure the door wrapped with a rope) and remove the RHS U-Bolt. This allows them to gently hinge upwards.

    3. Remove the old bolts holding the door bracket on the RHS, and push back as far as you can. This will be easy if the side room is clear (Side Room = Space between curtain and wall). If it's tight, we're only looking for 5mm here. You could either shave that off the door pole if it's poking into a wall or beam, or get creative with shuffling the bracket. Now re-secure that bracket - Make sure it's in line with your old bracket and secured well.

    4. You then slide the roller door opener onto the pole, engaging the door drum. Pop that onto the bracket in it's new position, then re-install the U Bolt. Clamp that down tight.

    Give you a rough idea of what to do. My recommendation is to get someone to help you as shifting brackets whilst balancing a door can be, being blunt, a crap job. Better yet, pay someone $120-150 for a labour only installation and it would become their headache :)

    Let me know if you have any other questions!

Login or Join to leave a comment