Full price was $1,099. Can be reduced to $593 if you buy the $35 membership for 99bikes. Also available in a grey colour, but only in sizes of XS, S and S/M.
Delivery limited to within 15km of stores with stock.
Merida Speeder 100 Flat Bar Road Bike (2021) $659 + $24 Local Delivery ($0 C&C) @ 99bikes (Club Membership Required)
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MtLs199 on 22/08/2022 - 10:56 99bikes.com.au (9991 clicks)
Last edited 22/08/2022 - 14:52 by 2 other users
Last edited 22/08/2022 - 14:52 by 2 other users
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It's Club Price…whatever that means.
It's $593.10 for Gold Price. To access Gold Price, sign in or join for $35.Club membership costs $5 to join, doesn't seem to expire: https://www.99bikes.com.au/club-99-membership
Gold membership costs $35 per 6 months: https://www.99bikes.com.au/club-99-membership
Looks like a better deal to join gold membership when purchasing higher value items, such as this bike.
Yeah, that is generally their business model - when you buy the bike since you have Gold u'r incentivized to buy more accessories at the discount, and/or get friends and family to jump aboard to use your discount. Although the bargain is there for the items purchased, you do end up buying extra stuff you don't need (at least in the short term).
But these bikes are ok for Her too?
Can we use HIM gift card to purchase this bike ?
Only if your a him not a her
Got 5x $50 HIM cards but 99bikes site is not recognising them on gift card field when I entered PCN and PIN
What am I doing wrong?
Edit: I'm buying a bike for HER, does that make any difference??
jkFeedback from live chat
"If you have multiple gift cards, then unfortunately this can't be processed on our website.
You would need to make the purchase in store, as they have the ability to process multiple payments (including multiple gift cards) on the same order."
For small people, Merida sizing is odd. I could fit a Trek FX in S but a Merida in XS was too large.
they have other sizes, just not in all colours …..first decent bike deal under $600 in various sizes like medium and large I've seem on ozbargain ….. tempting as a spare bike, but then I can fix my other one if broken so why would I need a spare :-(
bike geometry varies between brands, best if you can try in shop.
but then I can fix my other one if broken so why would I need a spare
N+1.
so why would I need a spare
Are you an OzBargainer or not?
Did you end up getting the FX? Damn that was a comfy bike
ok for women?
Yes
Yes. They are legally afforded the right to bike ownership and operation.
Only with husband or fathers permission.
That's pretty decent for Shimano hydraulic disc brakes. Shame about the paired spokes - most stupid design I've ever seen
carbon fork, aluminium frame and disc hydraulics ….. can't have everything ….would have loved 2x10 vs 3x8 but for under $600 beats a lot of other deals and probably first deal where frame and fork is good enough you might upgrade brakes or drive train as cheaper than a new bike. ….
I have a Merida Speeder 400 and it’s an excellent commuter bike. Lightweight and surprisingly fast.
When I was looking Merida they were great value for the componentry you get.
Me too. Love my speeder
Me three… Speeder 200 owner, would definitely buy again
Me four! 2018 Speeder 100 owner. Wife owns 2020 Speeder 100! I ride to work sometimes and casual rides with kids during the weekends.
I've just started out on a Speeder 20, considering upgrading to a Speeder 400 when they're available, especially considering the Shimano 105 groupset.
Can you comment on your experience riding yours, regarding performance, satisfaction, and any other improvements I might expect?Thanks :)
So I actually went from a 10-V to a 400 so pretty similar. I found that while the 10V felt great initially, the cheaper parts didn't last as well and I had more issues like weird noises and slower/more finnicky gear changes after about a year of riding it regularly (as a car replacement for someone who lives inner city) - even after servicing. The parts in the more expensive groupset seem more consistent and more reliable over time.
The biggest immediate benefit you'll notice is the 2x11 configuration is much much better than the 3x8. The 3x8 has a lot of overlapping gear ratios so you need to do quite a bit of maintenance on the gears as you're riding to find a useful gear. With the 105's 2x11 configuration I can ride normally in on the faster chainwheel, utilising the full 11 gears on the back quickly to maintain momentum. I only use the slower chainwheel when I have long steep uphill sections or a strong headwind.
Your chain and other components will last longer the less you bend the chain. Good practice is to use the small chainring with the easier gears and the large one with the harder gears. So, as you ascend a hill and pedalling gets harder, change to easier gears until there are maybe 3 or 4 remaining, then change to the small chainring (and shift back up a couple of gears to compensate for the big change in ratio) then keep changing to easier gears from there. It’s the opposite when descending.
I'd recommend http://good.bike/ if you're in Melbourne as well. Usually around $450 if you're after around this range of commuter bikes with excellent value. Comes with mudguards, more upright position riding position
Thanks for the recommendation. My bike knowledge isnt great but this looks like a solid deal. Any pros and cons of the good.bike vs the Merida Speeder 100?
Mm 99 bikes is a big national bike shop chain whereas the good.bike (previously known as iamfree bikes) is a very small one man bike shop (couple of years ago at least) in Fitzroy.
Merida is a well known bike brand, whereas good.bike is unheard off. Won't be as light or as fast.
I own one of the good.bike bikes, among 4 others (I've also bought bikes and lots of stuff from 99 bikes too). The good.bike bike was really well built bikes and amazing value for it's price. Hydraulic disc brakes at the $400+ price range is unheard off and it's matte black finish is wayyy better looking than the Merida, for me.
Tyres are slightly fatter on on good.bike bikes, making it more comfy to ride but takes a bit more pedalling effort to keep going.
When we bought it, we had our choice of a flat bar or a elevated bar to give us a more upright position even, choice of handlebars upon purchase without extra charge is something I've never heard of either.
So basically, if you wanna go fast and/or want the reassurance of a big bike shop and big brand name bike, Merida. If you don't mind going slower, comfy ride, great value bikes at a small bike shop with a friendly owner (but slightly strange as you might tell from the website) go with good.bike.
Why not go into store and try them both! There's both of them in Fitzroy. Do consider an ebike too if your primary purpose is just getting from A to B, I saw ebikes at 99 bikes for $800 which is solid value https://www.99bikes.com.au/electric?product_list_order=price .other than the $299 at Kogan https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/711819 which was just bonkers. That's not an amazing bike or even a decent bike but an ebike at $299…..
And if you need servicing, repairs, or work done down the line, I normally recommend "Bikes Please" too
https://maps.app.goo.gl/HZuZyVBwUxjKWnFL9, or commuter cycles in Brunswick, although you can't go wrong with 99 bikes either.If you're commuting, get mudguards, get a topeak rear bike rack, a good bike lock, and get some Ortlieb panniers. All of these last forever and well, well, worth the money.
Optional add ons later could be gloves, padded shorts, little bike bags that keep your phone or keys or stuff in reach.
Hey, thanks for sharing. I definitely hadn't known about this bike before and it definitely looks like good value.
Compared to the Merida with the DISCOUNTED price though I think it's a bit of a tougher sell ($620 including gold vs $450 quoted by yourself, it could vary due to covid etc and because the price isn't on the website)
The 3 chainrings up the front will make a huge world of difference even on Melbourne roads IMHO. Even if you're only in the city there are some pretty serious (in the context of a casual bike rider carrying day pack etc) hills and that 44T up the front + 32T at the back makes for harder pedaling than the 28T to 32T from the Merida.
The 3 vs 1 chainring means you're saving costs on an entire shifter + derailleur and all the associated components, plus the Merida features carbon forks. Everything else I would say mostly comes out in the wash but the additional reflectors, kickstand, bell etc on the good.bike will make say a $50 difference
On a normal day to day basis i'd say the good.bike is a fantastic option for its money. It will depend on whether the $200odd uplift to the Merdia is worth it, in each scenario.
@peter05: Yeah $450 was the price a year or two ago. When we bought it, it was $419 a couple of years back. Prices used to be on the website it's disappeared now. Could be different now.
Yeah the Merida bike will definitely ride faster and lighter, no doubt there. To me the 3x chain rings is just excessive though. I personally find I never use my bigger chain rings unless I'm doing weekend rides and trying to go fast.
@lawyerz: I agree with all your sentiments, however your comment on the going fast doesn't check out because the rear cassettes are basically the same ratios (11-32/merida/faster vs 12-32/good.bike/slower and keep in mind the faster vs slower is only relative to each other, it's not by much and isn't a huge chasm) but
Merida 48-38-28 to rear11-13-15-18-21-24-28-32
good.bike 44 to rear 12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32Tyou can see that the 44 sits somewhere between the 38 and 48, which puts it closer to what you would consider the "faster" range.
a 44/32 - 44/12 = 1.375 - 3.67 ratio range for the good bike vs 28/32 - 48/11 = 0.875 - 4.36 ratio range for the merida bike.Without consideration of the riding quality and feel of the frame and other components, the Merida absolutely has a far wider range of gear ratios available, which make a huge difference going up hill.
For those that aren't too familiar with gear ratios, the lower the number the less "perceived" effort in terms of leg strength, but higher pedal speed (rpm). A mountain bike for reference can have a gear ratio in the low 0.5 range, there's no typical as each rider depending on their weight and strength will choose the gear ratios that work well for them.Each rider has different strengths and weaknesses but a rider starting out is more likely to use those lower ratios due to their perceived easier pedaling effort, someone who does other sports such as running would be perfectly fine to spin the bike up to 120rpm for hours on end but they haven't trained their legs to spin at say 30rpm and put out the same power. Your leg power is your "torque"
the real question and benefits to the 3 chainrings isn't the going fast part (for casual riders), but the going up hills part which is why many casual bikes will have 3 chainrings because the casual rider is less likely to have the leg power to power up a "steep" hill
in addition, although there are many overlapping gear ratios, it's usually best practice on a hill climb not to change the front chainring to minimise the chance of losing the chain, which leaves how many gears there are on the rear cassette to "see you through" the climb. On this note, both bikes have 8 settings so its all the same
EDIT: and on the comment about the hills in the city i'm only really thinking of one going up Collins St towards Parliament and if it's flat road the ratios don't really make that much of a difference. A bonus is that if you're only riding one chainring it probably means you're quite fit and healthy :D (or will be!)
@peter05: ah I guess my 'fast' comment was mostly referring to the frame structure, frame materials being lighter and the more aggressive reach, and the overall geometry of the frame, rather than the cassette. Wheels are likely lighter with Merida as well.
I am not a pro rider and while I know the theory, I'm going mostly by 'feel' - and cassette doesn't really play a role in how 'fast' a bike goes - for me at least. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks very much for the detailed reply and great advice - really lays out the trade off's and considerations. Just getting back into riding after 15 years out of the saddle so reckon something comfortable and a bit slower might be the go. I also like the idea of supporting a small business
I'm going to head over to fitzroy this weekend to check them both out
@JointyJay: Enjoy! Give a couple of bikes a test ride - I'd even give an ebike at 99bikes a sneaky try for the fun of it!
If you're looking for places to go for a relaxing leisure ride, open up google maps, turn on cycling and look for the dark green lines - it's very subtle. just don't rely on the 'navigation' feature on google maps - some of the routes google takes you on is bizarre.
https://pictr.com/images/2022/08/22/BsGq3A.png
https://pictr.com/images/2022/08/22/BsGRjD.png
Tyres are slightly fatter on on good.bike bikes, making it more comfy to ride but takes a bit more pedalling effort to keep going.
I ready an intersting blog about this the other day. Take it with a grain of salt as this is a tyre manufacturer - but all the research seems to be pointing in the direction of wider tyres and the pro teams seem to be listening.
Sadly I can't get wider tyres on my 2011 Specialized Roubaix but on my next bike I will be going for 23's or 25's.
@CL7: The tyres that come with the good.bike/iamfree bikes are around 28 or 32 at 85psi, so it's out of the range of 23-25's (at 110-120psi) of a 'normal' road bike. They are also slightly threaded. So yes, wider tyres to about 25s are supposed to be generally accepted to have least rolling resistance and I run 25s on all my regular road bikes, but the good.bike/iamfree bike goes beyond that.
@lawyerz: They might have changed their spec - this is what they list currently:
Tyres 700C x 25C, Diamond Brand (inflatable up to 80 PSI). These tyres has street hugging semi slick tread pattern so this is ideal for road riding and bike paths..
@lawyerz: Also, totes forgot to add the link.
https://www.renehersecycles.com/12-myths-in-cycling-1-wider-…
hmmm, chrome moly frame vs aluminium and carbon fork …. aluminium frame and carbon fork is lighter …..
Definitely.
I like the concept and the bike looks good, but jeez that website is a struggle to read, both in appearance and content.
1. Is the typeface just really thin, or did they choose to put grey writing on a white background? Either way, why?
2. What kind of writing style is this? I feel like there's a both a words missing and somehow extra words that aren't needed…Writing this to respectfully inform you to get your bicycle's handlebar replaced as soon as possible. Saying that, shall install a new handlebar free of charge. As the good.bike name says, this workshop has a duty of care to give you a safe, good bike.
Writing this with you and your safety in mind. Reason to say this is, a customer concern was made in regards to the handlebar. While the bike was ridden the handlebar has bent. While there was no rider injury, sill this issue concerns me greatly. So ordered a new shipment of handlebars from a Melbourne based company straight away and wrote this message. Given that there was this issue reported about the handlebar I am bound to inform you to please discontinue riding the bike and get this new handlebar installed as soon as possible.the owner is a bit eccentric and the site is really quite bad in my opinion. It's certainly the smallest bike store I've ever seen as well. I've seen a fair few of his bikes around Melbourne though so he must be at least a bit successful and has been around for a number of years.
Seems to have this site operating as well https://iamfree.com/ but you can see the google reviews here too https://www.google.com/search?q=iamfree&oq=iamfree&aqs=edge.…
I think it's meant to be cute, but it comes off as pedestrian.
pedestrian
cyclist?
Looks pretty good for an alloy frame with "proper" Shimano running gears.
However, a compact setup is much more desirable. That triple chainring only looks good on paper, the gear ratios overlap a lot.
http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&KB=48,28,38&RZ=11,13…
Very solid commuter option for the money
I've recently joined the gold membership and just pm me if you wanna borrow it :)
MVP
Good price
I might push you to the ebike at 99 bikes for only $150 more if your main purpose is commuting https://www.99bikes.com.au/electric?product_list_order=price
Have 3 regular bikes + 1ebike + 1escooter + 1eskateboard. Different tools for different jobs but ebikes are game changers for commuting and hauling stuff.
e-bikes will be a game changer don't own one, but get passed by people that do and just see a bike as a way to get from A-B and don't want exercise as part of the experience
You get exercise on an e bike
Better than nothing maybe
But if you want health benefits of exercise you need a pedal bike.@VVamo: You should tell that to all these cyclists on drop bars. if you want exercise you should get flat bars as you need to use more effort when you are upright
It's pedal assist, you still have to pedal, so the exercise benefit is still there.
Better than nothing maybe
But if you want health benefits of exercise you need a pedal bike.
Those are hub drive, you want mid drive ebikes.
Hub drive only had 1 gear ratio (the motor), it can't produce additional torque to go uphill.
The rental electric bikes are hub and go uphill?
Not a steep one :D
I bought the cheapest hub ebike (velectrix) from 99bikes for about $1500 couple of years back, about 2000 kms on it now - still going strong except the battery is slowly getting worse as expected.
No idea about these $800 ones, but the hub drives on my hub ebike seems alright based on my limited experience. I'm a heavy rider and with panniers and full load on my panniers I reckon I've carried 130kg and can go uphill with ease.
A real pain (bordering on impossible) when trying to change tyres/tubes and thankfully I've never ever had to fix a puncture since I first swapped out for better tyres.
What kind of road bike has flat bars? Should be called a city bike instead.
You must think a step through frame bikes are for ladies only.
The lack of rigidity in step through frames compared to a normal frame is immediately obvious even to noobs.
So yeah, why would a male buy one?
So you can get on and off the bike when you have groceries or a child on the rack behind you?
No one gives a shit about rigidity outside of racing wannabes
@[Deactivated]: I disagree, They ride like crap.
You can feel the flex. Unless you are riding completely and utterly for basic transport and don’t give a rats about anything else they are horrible.
I don't want people seeing up my kilt.
road bike seems to be most bikes without shocks now ….. mountain bike, (road frame with shocks at front, paths, bumps, gutters), road frame no shocks but flat bar (for riding on road or bike paths) , road frame and drop bars for riding on road …. I prefer my flat bar on the road vs my drop bar as the upright position gives me better view of who is going to door me or pull out from a parking spot during busy times. Hybrid now seems to road frame with shocks …. hybrid between mountain bike and a road bike.
Hybrid, the worst of both worlds!
(Seriously, most "hybrid" bikes have all of the weight of a mountain bike with very little comfort at a low price. The forks used do almost nothing for actually absorbing bumps.)
My ride to work is on some roads, bumpy concrete paths and some cobbled areas and the suspension forks on the hybrid and mountain bikes I've ridden along there for years make it enjoyable to ride.
On my road bike it is really unpleasant and not a fun way to get to work.
i'd say you could consider this to be a road bike based on the seat alone. You wouldn't want to put all your weight downwards into that thing :D
with tyres at 32 it's definitely close to the hybrid category
previously road vs hybrid seemed to differentiate with the gear set used, tyre widths, the seat type and the handlebar shape.
probably due to all the components getting better in quality and lighter overall anyway the categories will start to all merge
Is it mainly for riding on the road? Then it's a road bike.
You are thinking of a drop-bar road bike, or what is more commonly thought of as a road racing bicycle.
This is a road bike you is thinking of a race bike. Race bikes don't belong on road anymore than race cars
City bikes typically have high handlebars, and often comes with kick stand, mud guards, racks, etc.
Traditionally road bikes have drop bars and skinny tyres, flat bars are getting more common, often called fitness bikes. But fitness bikes can also refer to drop bars with relaxed geometry,
Anyway, it is appropriate to call this a flat bar road bike.
I'm 178cm @ 90kg, what size will i need?
For bikes, your height is the key factor (especially your standover height, or inside leg measurement).
Looking at the sizing chart online I'd say that the Medium/Large size would fit - but if you go in store to buy one then they will fit it to you.
Merida L would be right
if you are after a more casual ride the general consensus is to err on the larger frame size
i'd recommend going to check it out because it will depend on the style of riding you prefer.
noone knows how you would prefer to sit, some people like to lean forward, others prefer sitting on the seat. without knowing this information it's everyone's guess :)
You can ballpark it with height, but there's absolutely nothing like going to the store and trying it out for yourself to see if it's comfortable.
thanks everyone, you've all confirmed what i already knew :))
i thought it might sell out soon, but it looks like stock is still available so i'll pop into lidcombe and size it up in person
i'll post back
One of the better bike brands, "handmade in TAIWAN" https://www.merida-bikes.com/en/p/about-us/hand-made-in-taiw…. That's all I'd like to say.
Can I replace the tyres to make this a bit more gravelly?
You can, if there's enough clarence. Check the fork, seat stays, and chain stays, they limit the width of tyres.
Apparently there's clarence to take 37mm tyres, but there's no 37mm tyres, it's either 35mm or 38mm. So 35mm is max in theory but not guaranteed.
to be safe, get 35mm tyres… i had a Vittoria Terreno Dry 35mm which was actually measuring 37mm.
Forgot to mention pay attention to the rim size, they need be wide enough to keep the tyres secure.
Also, 35mm is probably the minimum you want from gravel tyres, ideally 40mm or 45mm, and tubeless at lower pressure.
What’s a good gps bike speedometer you’d recommend and it’s cheap?
Strava.
GPS? Unless you are riding enough for a dedicated headunit, the Strava app on your phone will do just fine.
Just use Strava as a starting point.
Pay attention to privacy settings, such as who to share to and when/where to start logging.
Ok. Thank you. Do you put your phone on your bike with Strava or keep it on you? On the bike is a bit risky isn’t?
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Tell em the price son! (In title)