Went to two stores and they both have the stock. There is another link, it still shows $110.
Would this work for a fence?
Looks good. I'll check it out tomorrow. Thanks
Can’t see any in Brisbane
"If you're changing coatings or not sure what product is currently on your deck, there's no need to sand it back to bare timber to ensure the top coat will adhere"
Dunno how it performs this miracle but ok.
Literally 3 paragraphs later…
"Important: The final look of any semi-transparent top coat will be impacted by the condition and colour of the existing coating. If the existing coating has deteriorated unevenly, it is recommended to remove all existing coating by using a coatings stripper or sanding back to bare timber. "
Gotta love those marketing guys right.
Would strongly suggest that this is only suitable for new decks and only if you plan on going down the water-based route. Would never feel comfortable applying this over a previously failed coating.
For decks with existing coatings, if it's rough or peeling then it's water-based and I'd strongly suggest completely sanding back before applying. If it's oil based then give it a good pressure wash and clean with Napisan and you should be good to go.
Oil based certainly has its place.
Hmmm recently put down a new merbau decking. Left it alone to allow rain etc to wash tannins etc out of the timber. Wanting to oil it after about 8 weeks. Simply Napisan it and then put down oil of choice? Or use something like this then sealer? Anyone recommend good decking oil? Any tips for a noobie like me?
Where do you live, and how much weather does the deck receive?
What sort of finish do you like?
What budget do you have?
A simple and effective process would be a product like intergrain ultradeck or Haymes dexpress.
They are water based, and if applied correctly, long lasting. You need to allow for recoating on a regular basis, anywhere from 6-18 months depending on a variety of factors. Simply use the decking cleaner (which is oxalic acid - like napisan) to prepare the surface, allow to dry, and then coat.
It's around $200 a 10L tin last I checked, and they are tinted in a variety of colours. The more tint / colour, the stronger the UV protection, the slower it tends to breakdown in the sun.
People swear by sikkens but it simply is not worth the cost in my opinion. Fails too quick in Australian conditions.
Most traditional decking oils will need recoating in 3 months.
Most independent paint stores (inspiration, haymes paint shops, etc) will have someone able to guide you.
Thanks seajay
Live in Wet Victoria, doesnt get full on sun all year round, so protected by shade/trees a bit in the cooler months.
Minister of War and Finance wants a glossy finish so i guess like a clear covering, but assume that would mean more recoating over time as you mention.
Budget not really an issue, just want it to look the goods :)
Didnt really know you had to recoat that often.
Nice. If you want that glossy finish, you might be interested in Intergrain Heavy Duty product (previously called DWD). It's basically an transparent acrylic coating that can last up to 7 years on exterior timber which can give an appearance similar to interior polished floors.
Relatively pricey system, but less maintenance. Some people love the finish, others prefer a more oiled look.
Swing by a paint store and most will have sample boards that can help show the difference. Bunnings should as well but finding someone who will give correct advice is hit and miss.
Haymes has a wider presence in Victoria - I like them as they generally care about quality and are Aussie owned and made. They also have a similar product that functions the same way. I think it's called uvex.
Hope this helps
If you intend to oil your deck, definitely don't use any sort of sealer/primer. It will just prevent the oil from penetrating the timber. If you read the instructions on this product it should only be overcoated with water based coating.
After extensive research I chose oil for our deck, for ease of application and recoating. I never want to have to sand back a failed water based coating.
This forum thread has helped hundreds.
https://www.renovateforum.com/f196/cleaning-oiling-your-deck…
Thanks Stuckster, ironically i found that link last night after this thread prompting me to go researching :)
One quick question, should I give it a really quick sand before cleaning and then oiling? Just that the deck has a few marks on it from when laid, ie fine scratches or marks from power leads dragged across, power tools etc. Guess over time it will mark anyway :)
Depends how big the deck is, how bad it is and how much work you want to put in. Sanding won't hurt, especially if it gets rid of the blemishes, but if it's just a couple of marks here and there, rather than sanding the whole thing, I'd be tempted to spot sand and feather the areas. However if the whole thing has darkened or greyed then sanding would certainly give you a nice uniform finish and also bring out the lovely grains in the timber once you oil it.
Test out some different sanding paper grits and sanders. A corded orbital sander barely made a dent on my Tallowwood deck even with 40 grit. The wood is just so dense. So I used a belt sander with 80 grit for a first pass, then came back and touched up with the orbital. But don't worry about getting it pristinely smooth. The smoother it is, the more slippery it will be. Sometimes a bit of texture is good.
I've still got 2/3 can left for my deck. Good stuff