Hi, would anyone know what these figures mean on my Mazda 3 wheel alignment report? Thanks
Previous values
Total toe +3.0mm
Half-toe +0.1mm +3.0mm
Camber -00° 05' -00° 18'
Caster +03°52' +04°10'
Final Values
Total toe +0.8mm
Half toe +0.4mm +0.4mm
Camber -00°01' -00°20'
Caster +0.3°50' +04°12'
man your car mustve feel so bad before it was fixed
lol are the figures good now?
Figures will be different for different models of car. Yours are even which is good and the person doing it would have told you if there was something out of line for your car.
Last wheel alignment report I saw had ‘specification’ listed so there was something to compare to. No point telling you something was 3, is now 1 while it’s supposed to be 4.
Your drivers side wheel pointed out a bit too much before. Now the steering wheel is centralised and both wheels point out slightly like they should for a front wheel drive car. The rest of the numbers haven't changed. Google will have pictures showing what caster and camber mean if you are curious.
That puts mine into perspective. Toe was out by 11mm.
I hope you did not pay much for your alignment, as not much was done.
I take it you have radial tyres?
I take it the whole front end was checked for wear? No use doing an alignment if the front end is worn
It looks like you have macpherson struts which were left as they were
The only thing that was done, was the toe, and the idiot went the wrong way; it should be negative toe
(if I remember from my days of doing & teaching front end alignments)
The camber is fine on both wheels, but the castor is a bit excessive and should have been reduced if it can be with if you have an excentric nut on the top of your macpherson strut. If you have standard radials, it might be OK, not too heavy , until you get bigger tyres. Then you get a strut bender to bend them struts. Not many aligners like bending struts, I didn't mind.
(my name was Zig when I worked at Janies in Springvale)
'I take it you have Radial tyres'
I mean I have not seen a set of non-radial road tyres for cars in a long time lol
Sounds like you're pretty out of the times.
I see cars go past by window that are done up to original specs, that includes cross ply tyres; sounds like u r out of the times.
You can wear out your tyres then with the settings you have
Why would anyone put cross ply tyres on a car - even to ‘original’ spec?
@Euphemistic: What would you give the title of Grand Champion to at Summer Slam (or any car show), to an 'original' car, or a car close to original because they have radial tyres? I rest my case
I was talking to these dudes on the weekend that had these utes from decades back, and they had standard cross ply tyres on; there were four of them. I wonder if radials can go that skinny (profile). Not all old utes are done up like in that ZZ Top song Legs. The diff was not original on that car so it was easy to find mags for it. If it was a standard car they would have to pay someone to mill 4 mags at yay amount of dollars; tyres are extra
@the Unforgiven: Those that want to be so original they use cross ply tyres would be very few and far between. Most of those with cross plys to be super original would be trailer queens, not regularly driven. Radials are a massive improvement that don’t effectively change originality of the vehicle.
Toe refers to toe in or out. + is out, - is in. (Think Duck footed, Pigeon toed)
Camber is + out, - in. (Think top of wheel in or out)
Caster is angle of the steering pivot. + is back, - is forward. (Think, strut top back or forward of axle line)
If you have toe out, good chance it is a front wheel drive. Rear and AWD usually have 0 or slight negative toe.
It isn’t a race car, so camber would be very low and close to 0 on most cars.
Caster cannot be changed on many cars without messing about.
All these figures mean nothin without context. For a Kia Rio, ok, not bad, for a Kenworth T409, terrible.