Car Tyre profile education help needed

justanick on 19/01/2022 - 23:58

Hi guys,

My car needs new tyres and need to replace all four of them. The current tyre specs are as below. However, the rear wheel tyres are not available. Kograh Tyre power told me instead of 245/35 R19 they can fit 255/35 R19. I cannot find 245/35 R19 anywhere.
Kogarah tyre power gave me a quote of $1350 all four tyres with wheel alignment.

Could you please let me know if I should get the 255 rear wheel profile instead of 245?

Current Tyres: ContiSport Contact SSR

Size: 225/40 R19
Size: 245/35 R19

Automotive

Comments

[Deactivated] on 20/01/2022 - 00:10

+10

If you can't get the specific tyre you want , You don't have to go to one specific tyre store , check Bob jane or Jax or even Tempe tyres (as you're practically down the road from them and speaking from experience they are often the cheapest in NSW) to see what tyres they offer. If you find cheaper tyres elsewhere you can often ask them to price-match and most businesses do so to keep you there and finalize a sale.

Start HERE and use the tyre comparison tab so you can compare the sizing of the tyres so you can figure out how much it will modify your speedometer , most cars can safely do a 1 size wide or 1 size up (either width or height) safely without causing any rubbing/chafing of the fenders or inner plastic guards but it will still throw your speedo out a tiny bit so its generally a good idea to stock to OEM fitment.

In short , yes you can do it but just be aware of the changes in-doing so will make.

If i can make a suggestion , if you are spending that amount of money ..based on your current tyre profile sounds like you drive something sporty/fast i would also look at the Michelin PS4-S or the Goodyear Eagle F1 Supersport as a replacement instead of the Conti's , both of the tyres aforementioned are more comfortable and also provide better grip in the wet and dry by comparison , if you absolutely require RFT (runflat technology) i can only suggest the Pirelli PZero 4.
justanick on 20/01/2022 - 01:19

+2

Thank you so much!! You wrote a good note for anyone not so savvy with tyres to understand. I am driving Mercedes C class and would like to stick with OEM tyres. However, I can’t seem to find the rear tyre continental specs anywhere. Size: 245/35 R19 Y
I called Tempe tyres and the sales guy told me they have no run flats with that specs and was rude did not bother recommending anything and just hung up. Bob Jane doesn’t have the rear tyres profiles as well. I really don’t want any issues with my car fitting incorrect tyre profile.
If I go to my Mercedes dealer they will charge me an arm and a leg.
I’ll call Jax tomorrow but apart from that do you have any other stores where I can check ? I have to get run flats as my car has no room for spare wheel.
I don’t know much about Pirelli PZero 4 can I get them with the same specs and similar price $1350 all four with wheel alignment?
- Hybroid on 20/01/2022 - 05:00
  
  +3
  
  I am driving Mercedes C class and would like to stick with OEM tyres.
  
  Why? Unless it's a C63 and you need performance tyres, the regular C-class Continental SportContacts aren't anything special nor the most durable. It makes no real world difference as long as you get similar run flat specs. There's no reason to constrain yourself to the exact same tyre esp as you're replacing all 4 in one go.
  
  I usually use Bob Jane whom offer lowest price guarentee and even sometimes free alignment when replacing all 4 tyres so pop in and get a quote. Also free tyre checkup & rotation after 3 or 6 months.
  
  https://www.bobjane.com.au/promo/promotions
[Deactivated] on 20/01/2022 - 01:44

+6

You're welcome

Nice car , i have previously used THIS site before with some success. It finds stores closest to you that "May" have tyres in stock , sometimes they show a price when you check it but sometimes they don't its a bit of a mixed bag. but what it does do is it also shows you some tyre shops around you that you may not have known or noticed before giving you a little more lee-way in terms of shopping around.

Just a question but do you "Need" run flats? , often run-flat tyres are more expensive + noiser and not as comfortable as a regular model of the same tyre (due to the more solid construction of the tyre which allows for its run-flat feature) , additionally run-flats are often meant for very short journeys in the event of an active air leaking puncture , that short journey may get you off the road more safely which is good but you would still end up stuck with an immobilized car and would need someone to come out and try to repair it or get a tow regardless. Just as a recommendation only i think you should consider roadside assistance instead and buy a normal model tyre , it might be cheaper overall.

If you still want to go with run-flats thats perfectly fine as its your choice but if you don't want to go with a run-flat it will certainly open up to more choices and more stock availability at different tyre shops especially if you were open to trying a different tyre.

I don’t know much about Pirelli PZero 4 can I get them with the same specs and similar price $1350 all four with wheel alignment?

Due to the fact you are running 19 inch wheels , i know from personal experience that tires arn't cheap at that profile

I just checked and bob jane has your Conti's (runflats) at your OEM size for $838 (rear x2) + and $431 (front x2) … so $1700 (not including wheel alignment) but they do have stock availability ..i would say if you rang them they should be able to price match tyre power and you should be right if you were happy to stick with them.
- justanick on 20/01/2022 - 02:01
  
  Thanks again. I have been doing my search by tyre instead of car make and model and also found the same deal in Bob Jane. Tyre power website doesn’t list the continental tyres price it was over the phone so Bob Jane might not even honour it but I’ll give it a shot.
  Tempe tyres website shows front tyres availability $350 each and rear ones each $389 but out of stock. :(
  I have been more keen to get the OEM wheels as it’s safer (run flats) and more of a personal decision. My car also lacks boot space for a spare tyre.
TooSerious2 on 20/01/2022 - 02:01

+2

I don't need Tyres but jeez it's nice to see someone being so generous and helpful, jolly
justanick on 20/01/2022 - 02:03

+1

Special thanks again jolly for such generous notes even at this time of the night. Thank you again.
MS Paint on 20/01/2022 - 08:01

I did hear that there is a potential for a shortage of automotive tyres due to covid.
Lichen6420 on 20/01/2022 - 08:43

+1

https://tiresize.com/comparison/

You can punch in the 2 different rear tyre sizes here and it will give you size comparison % and affect on speedo etc and a rough visual idea.

When comparing two,

245 / 35 / 19
vs
255 / 35 / 19

The 255 is slightly taller ( 5mm ) and wider (10mm)

It will give you slightly more grip on the rear due due to it being wider and having a larger contact area with the road and the difference in rolling diameter is negligible.

In a nutshell it will raise the rear of the car 5mm. I doubt the average driver would notice any difference in handling.

It is a great alternative tyre size if it is cheaper.

I personally wouldn't bother with run flats, they wear quicker, give a harsher ride due to the much more rigid sidewall and are much more expensive to boot.

For how often you actually get a flat ( I've had 1 in the last 10 years ) it is MUCH cheaper overall just to call a tow truck if the need ever arises.

Most run flats cannot be repaired if they are punctured and tyre shops would almost never hold them in stock as they are not common and expensive to have sitting around in their inventory, you will generally be left waiting for them to get stock in if you get a flat anyway ( as you've experienced with Tempe not having them on hand )

Run flats are also not bulletproof, if you have a blowout or damage / puncture the sidewall of tyre your not going anywhere.

Although Tyrepower has them 'in stock' I would bet money they are not actually there and they have to pull them from their suppliers warehouse, which is fine for a quoted job as this will be booked in advance and they have notice. Not so much if you blow a tyre and have to wait 24-48hrs for them to arrive to the shop.

The caveat to this would be if you do lots of highway driving then there is utility with run flats in being able to keep moving 100km or so to the next town with a tyre shop.
- MS Paint on 20/01/2022 - 10:20
  
  That extra 5mm will have minimal impact on the speedometer accuracy but I'm not sure if it will create issues if the OP's car is a 4matic.
- mapax on 20/01/2022 - 11:23
  
  In a nutshell it will raise the rear of the car 5mm. I doubt the average driver would notice any difference in handling.
  
  Since the tyres will only increase the height of the car equal to the radius, it probably wouldn’t even be 5mm higher at the rear bumper and would only be 2.5mm higher when measured over the axle. I would be highly surprised if OP could notice a difference.
  - Euphemistic on 20/01/2022 - 13:00
    
    2.5mm is less than the difference between worn and new tyres.
    - mapax on 20/01/2022 - 13:36
      
      Hence the reason I would be highly surprised.
- Euphemistic on 20/01/2022 - 13:09
  
  For how often you actually get a flat ( I've had 1 in the last 10 years ) it is MUCH cheaper overall just to call a tow truck if the need ever arises.
  
  I hadn’t had a proper flat for ages either. However just before Christmas had a slow leak repaired (screw stuck in it). Then couple of days ago another tyre went dead flat overnight (screw stick in it), got that repaired and the guy said I’ll see you soon. apparently these things come in 3’s.
pharkurnell on 20/01/2022 - 09:52

Try this
https://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculator
brad1-8tsi on 20/01/2022 - 10:19

Is your car an AWD/4WD? If you are going to change tyre diameter only at one end this is important.

Why do people ask questions about their car and not say what car they have?
- pharkurnell on 20/01/2022 - 10:23
  
  He said in a reply (which is as you say useless - should be in title)
  
  ' I am driving Mercedes C class '
  - MS Paint on 20/01/2022 - 10:27
    
    And as I asked just around the same time as Brad - is it a 4matic?
    
    So many people drive cars that they literally know nothing about and I hate that with a passion.
    - pharkurnell on 20/01/2022 - 11:34
      
      .. but they will happily tell you in a posh butler voice 'i drive a mercedes'…
  - brad1-8tsi on 20/01/2022 - 16:12
    
    'I am driving Mercedes C class '
    
    It shouldn't be necessary to trawl through all the posts to find that snippet.
    
    "C-Class" narrows it down to a few possibilities…
kizzy on 20/01/2022 - 10:22

Difference between those sizes is negligible. You won't notice it, however it should be up to the tyre shop to make sure they fit without scrubbing on the vehicle.
Brodo Faggins on 20/01/2022 - 10:26

Found 4 different 245/35/R19 Continental specs for your piece of mind - ranging from $218-$467ea.

Only 1 of them has run flats though - as others have suggested you really don't need run flats. You're more likely to wear the tyre tread out & need to replace them again eventually, more than you would have a flat tyre.

Also, you don't have to limit yourself to "Continental" brand. Here's a search for all 245/35/R19 - ranging from $93-629ea.

Lastly, as others have said, you can go up/down 1 size (width or height) of your stock tyres.
- MS Paint on 20/01/2022 - 10:29
  
  piece of mind
  
  I assume frontal lobe because I need a frontal lobotomy after this.
  - Brodo Faggins on 20/01/2022 - 10:30
    
    hahaha was about to edit my comment but you replied xD
justanick on 20/01/2022 - 11:44

Just to clarify my car is Mercedes C250 W205 and don’t think it is 4Matic correct me if I’m wrong.
Bob Jane will not price match to Kogarah tyres but they are giving me the best deal except it’s 255/35 R19 not OEM 245/35 R19.
Some of you already confirmed it’s going to be good grip but others said it might damage the car.

Can I safely get the slightly wider tyres ?
- redvaldez on 20/01/2022 - 15:49
  
  Tyre sizes, in my view, are not something that you need to be 100% anal about because:
  * Different tyres, despite being of a same specification, will be slightly different in size - e.g. on an older car I had with wider aftermarket wheels, I had no scrubbing with one set of tyres, but had a fair bit of scrubbing with a set from a different manufacturer
  * From factory, different variations of the one model will come with different sized rims, and it's unlikely to be the same overall diameter - there'll probably be a few mm difference between them
  * Your overall diameter of your tyre will reduce by 10 mm over the life of the tyre as it wears
  
  For what it's worth, and while it's a different kettle of fish, a lot of 4WD owners run tyres that are an inch or two bigger (or more). I also went from 215/55/17 to 245/45/18 on a sedan I used to own and there were no downsides. Just be warned though that if you run a bigger tyre, your speedo will have a lesser tolerance (ie it will be reading closer to the true speed, by maybe 1km/h at highway speeds).
  
  Despite all of what I've just said, if it were my car, I'd just get a different make of tyres.
highon2str on 20/01/2022 - 12:20

+2

The car's level of safety, performance and handling characteristics were engineered and measured according to the factory tyre specs. The engineers and designers chose those tyre sizes that you see on the placard after much R&D and testing. Any deviation away from these sizes can affect the car in ways (positively or negatively) unknown. Personally, I would not deviate from the recommended sizes, although in terms of run-flats I would tend to agree with the general consensus here. Run-flats are expensive, heavy, noisy and not fuel economical. They are about 1.5 times the weight of a regular performance tyre, which is adding a whole heap to your vehicle's un-sprung weight (essentially making your car less powerful, less nimble, and more fuel-hungry). You can safely fit non-run-flat tyres to a "JJ" marked run-flat rim, (though not the other way!).

If you do go the non-run-flat option, you can look into getting mini air compressors or even tyre foam. Tyre punctures are very rarely ever catastrophic, almost always a slow leak, so when you do realise you have a puncture, a little ryobi air pump will be able to top the tyre off enough for you to make a trip to the closest tyre shop, without having to change your own tyre on the roadside or to call roadside assistance.

Speaking of catastrophic failure, this is actually not that uncommon with run-flats. Due to the reinforced sidewall (and often low profile) of run-flats, it is often impossible to tell if the tyre sitting on the car is set to the correct pressure, or if it is in fact dead flat. This is why all cars with run-flats come with tyre monitoring systems, though these systems do have their limitations with regards to how they detect variances in rolling diameters and how they have been calibrated/reset previously. Many drivers will continue to drive their cars on the sidewall because the "tyre looks fine", until the tyre is destroyed beyond repair (yes you can repair some run-flats).
- thegazette on 20/01/2022 - 12:41
  
  https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRyiKlo…
justanick on 20/01/2022 - 14:22

Thanks again guys. I actually am now thinking of non run flats but on the same OEM profile.
1) Can I get the same OEM continental tyres which are non flat ?
2) If there’s a puncture or something catastrophic then can I use some instant foam etc to go to the nearest tyre shop or fix it myself to safety ? I have Xiomi battery tyre inflator.

I spoke with Kogarah tyre power 2 hours back he said he will email me the quote after I called them he said he will not email me the quote as the manufacturer doesn’t like him selling so cheap and others take the quote and price match it elsewhere. They have 5 star reviews in Google. WTH.
justanick on 20/01/2022 - 17:17

Update: I am just coming from Tempe tyres and we both found out in the driver side plaque 255/35 R19 is an option and they have them in stock. $1508 four run flats with alignment cost.

I got some quotes for Dunlop’s and Continental non-run flats. They aren’t that cheap either 200-300 less max.

Can you guys let me know what to do for a tyre leak on a non run flats ? I saw some YouTube videos you can insert foam etc to keep going until 40-50km or a day.
My car boot has no room for a spare tyre.
- Euphemistic on 20/01/2022 - 18:03
  
  Do you ever venture out of the city? If not, you’ll always be within an hour or roadside assist. Punctures and flats are pretty rare with modern tyres. As above, In the last 10 years I’ve probably had 5 between 2 cars and most of them are slow leaks that you can keep driving if you top up with air. Unfortuantley have had 2 in the last month though. Haven’t had a blowout since last century, and that was 4wding, not on the roads.
  
  Additionally, your car may have a tyre pressure monitoring system which reduces risk even further.
- [Deactivated] on 20/01/2022 - 18:33
  
  +1
  
  I bring This with me on long trips where roadside assistance cannot reasonably tow me to the nearest tyre repair shop. its relatively easy to do with the affected car wheel on the front as you can just turn the steering wheel to get access but its easier if you take the wheel off if the rear wheel is affected. This is what it looks like in practice. note once you successfully repair the tyre you will need to inflate it so an inflator is mandatory in this situation. This is what i use , i would say its not small but its not big either and allows for a tyre reinflation via the cigarette lighter power source or a power bank. i've timed it and it can fill a flat tyre from 0 psi to 33 in approximately 4 minutes. With this type of repair …if done properly…can last the life of the tyre safely , there will be people on here that think otherwise and will recommend a proper repair of the tyre from inside out at a tyre repair shop (not just a mechanic) and they would not be wrong but at the end of the day it is up to you , personally speaking i've repaired a few tyres myself for friends and they are still travelling on those same tyres today with no problems.
  
  My car also has the tyre foam but its not recommended to drive more then 20km and you are also reduced to a much lower traveling speed , tyre foam in general is realistically used as a last resort to try and get you to a nearest form of help or off the highway where its most dangerous.
  
  As others have mentioned most tyre punctures are not the instant "Tssssss" one would imagine but more of a slow leak that affects handling over time until you really realize that something isn't right , usually after you come back to your car after leaving it for a period of time (i.e overnight etc)
justanick on 20/01/2022 - 18:38

Thank you guys. My perspective totally changed on tyres after I opened this thread. Now I’m convinced I should buy non run flats. Two questions:
1) putting non run flat tyres does it reduce my resale price ?
2) which tyres should I get similar specs to the ones I have and continental?
- [Deactivated] on 20/01/2022 - 19:28
  
  No , 90% of people have no idea what a run flat tyre is let alone how they work. simply for the fact they are not standard technology fitted to every car from the factory so the majority of people would not have exposure. additionally even if they new about the technology if they have had it previously most would opt out of not having one in favor of roadside assistance as it rides harsher , consumes more fuel , generates more noise and is more expensive to purchase. A person isn't going to come up to your car if you sell it and be like…oh you don't have runflat tyres (mentally deducts $500 on an already lowball offer in mind).
  
  Contextually speaking its entirely logical that the overall value of the car will be based on a majority of factors inclusive of the current wear of tyres amongst other things , (i.e if i buy a car with near-bald tyres , you bet ill be automatically offering $XXX less as its a cost to me after ownership of the car as well as my own time that i now have to forgo instead of the prior owner to get it changed afterward). At the end of the day you could argue that cars should be sold as-is and a reasonable offer made , but an actual reasonable offer comes from the seller being diligent with the maintenance of his/her ownership of the vehicle , and tyres are not only a maintenance item but a safety one as well.
  
  Your Conti's fall into the "Passenger Car Summer Tyre" category , HERE are other tyres in the same category that were tested recently , according to this particular test The Sport Contact 5 SSR Runflat is ranked 53rd of 64 Summer Max Performance tyres.
  
  Just remember tyre tests are very subjective and one individual may prefer one tyre over another because it has a more desirable characteristic , but what doesn't change is the actual tyres "performance" when push comes to shove in different situations.
  
  I suggest going HERE and watch a few tyre test videos so you can get an idea of what a tyre might be like so you can make your decision from there , just be advised that not all manufacturer tyres will come in your size so therefor you need to check to determine suitability. The blokes that perform these tests explain things very well and give you a much better understanding to how certain tyres will perform in certain situations.
justanick on 20/01/2022 - 23:47

After a lot of searches I found out I’ll get non flat tyres. Continental Brand as per below links.
I found the quotes from Tempe Tyres. Tomorrow I’ll call Bob Jane and Kograh tyre power to see if I can get them cheaper.
But still $1350 all four run flats wheel alignment from Kogarah tyre power remains the cheapest deal.
My main reasons for going non run flat are I used to get a lot of bumps from small pot holes and it was very annoying. I never understood why it was like that until I opened this thread.
I hope to get smoother less bumpy rides after non run flats. If there’s a wheel puncture then I’ll carry my tyre inflator and go to the nearest mechanic.

1) https://www.tempetyres.com.au/tyreproducts?continental-22540…

2) https://www.tempetyres.com.au/tyreproducts?continental-25535…
- Brodo Faggins on 21/01/2022 - 00:07
  
  Try Tyroola search on my post above for 245/35/R19
  https://www.ozbargain.com.au/comment/11653895/redir
  
  Here's 255/35/R19 from same site
  https://www.tyroola.com.au/tyre/continental/255-35-r19/nsw/?…
  - justanick on 21/01/2022 - 01:21
    
    Just tried the searches comes up with tyres only not a place where I can go for fitting disposing my old tyres and wheel alignment.
    - Brodo Faggins on 21/01/2022 - 11:09
      
      Once you select a tyre, you need to enter your postcode.
      
      It will bring up all local places that you can send the tyre to / replace them at. They will take care of disposal themselves.
- [Deactivated] on 21/01/2022 - 01:44
  
  Mate the reason why your annoyed with bumpy rides besides those NFT tyres is because you are running on 19 inch wheels with only a 35 (height) profile tyre at the rear which is where you will feel the bulk of the road and its imperfections.
  
  I have a 225/40/R18 setup and have recently gone down to a 225/45/R17 setup and also changed the tyre which has completely transformed the car , the taller profile gives you more rubber to absorb the imperfections and bumps in the road..you simply got more meat.
  
  The bigger the wheel the heavier it is and the more expensive the tyre is also and arguably the less comfortable the ride will be no matter how good your shock absorbers are or if its a new car or not.
  
  255/35 for your rear's is a slightly better choice overall and you're not throwing your speedo out that much which is good but i would be going with these instead.
  
  They are highly rated , exceptional tyres for comfort and is still classified as a summer tyre so it has the grip where it counts , the tyres that Tempe sells in particular are rated (MO) which stands for Mercedes Original. more information on that can be found HERE
  
  *Goodyear Eagle-F1-Asymmetric-5-(MO) Frontx2 = $580
  *Gooyear Eagle-F1-Asymmetric-5-(MO) Rearx2 = $538
  
  Total cost for tyres fitted including a wheel alignment ($60 from tempe) = $1178 and they are in stock and you will leave with a much better and more comfortable tyre.
  
  Enjoy.
  - justanick on 21/01/2022 - 11:29
    
    I really can’t thank you enough for your help mate.
    I just dropped off my car at Mercedes for service B. Initial review by the consultant was not to change my tyres to non run flats as I don’t have a spare wheel and they only recommend this for my safety. The way he said it was like if I change to non run flats I’ll be committing cardinal sin or die soon in an accident.
    
    I’ll be calling Tempe tyres shortly for the Goodyear tyres which you recommended. Should I also call up Bob Jane or Kogarah Tyre power if they can beat the price ? The reviews for Tempe is Google is much higher and they are closer to home.
  - justanick on 21/01/2022 - 11:47
    
    Gooyear Eagle-F1-Asymmetric-5-(MO) Rear(tempetyres.com.au)x2 = $538
    
    ——>It’s listed as $290 on their site. I am waiting on Tempe tyres to call me back.
justanick on 22/01/2022 - 00:11

+1

FYI my car is going to be stuck with the dealership until Monday later afternoon mainly due to a sunroof rail issue (waiting for a part). The rear break pads are 1.5mm thick so needs to be changed. Do you guys know the minimum thickness of the break disc/drum and pads/shoe of W205 car ?

The Goodyear Eagle-F1-Asymmetric-5-(MO) are $290 each for front and rear plus $60 for wheel alignment total after discounts $1180. This will be installed at Tempe tyres on Monday.

I hope my decision of NOT going to continental run flat is a good one.

Now I’ll try to see how I can get a decent discount on roadside assistance as my comprehensive insurance is with CommBank.
- [Deactivated] on 22/01/2022 - 03:17
  
  budget direct offer $76 for first year and i think $89 thereafter , NRMA charges $120 P.A for classic care.
  
  You'll be right , the Goodyear are far superior tyres. just keep them inflated properly by checking your pressures on a regular basis (every month or so) or invest in a TPMS system (if your merc doesn't have it) and inflate when required. Something like THIS or THIS. You don't have to buy from there just giving you an idea.
  
  From experience with heavy cars , higher tyre pressure works better on low profiles. Generally its ideal to go +3 psi Front/Back (cold) over whats stated on your door jamb , it all comes down to personal preference but when i had 19" wheels i was running 42 PSI front and 40 PSI rear on a car that weighed 1600kg on 245/35/R19 and it was perfect. As long as you don't go over the maximum inflation pressure marked on your tyres (usually 50 PSI cold) you won't have any issues.
  
  Higher tyre pressure is always better then lower , less chance of copping a puncture on a sidewall , lower rolling resistance increases fuel economy and the steering and braking is more responsive. But as i said it comes down to personal preference , see how you go.
  - justanick on 22/01/2022 - 15:59
    
    Thank you so much mate. I can’t wait to get the new tyres on Monday and drive around. Is there a way I can find out that my car has TPMS? I checked the settings on my dashboard and it does mention about flat tyre warning system.
    I wouldn’t mind investing in the solar TPMS warning system.
    My only worry is if there’s a tyre damage in highway or somewhere at night. I have a Xiomi portable tyre inflator. What else can I buy as an insurance policy ?
    
    NRMA Roadside assistance only mentions about they will come and change my legal spare. So does that mean they will do nothing if I don’t have a spare ?
    - [Deactivated] on 23/01/2022 - 00:20
      
      +1
      
      If your talking about This pump it would be next to useless , i'd say you would be able to pump up that size tyre of yours in about 15-20 minutes if you needed too its really that slow, that's if the battery didn't die out before it reached 30 psi. i have one and they are handy but not for a full pump from scratch. its great for small top-ups but thats about it. Suggest getting something bigger that can be powered by your cigarette lighter also if the battery in that pump runs low.
      
      You would have to check your service manual to determine what sort of TPMS function you have , most modern Euro cars have TPMS or at least some form of TPMS. For example a MK5 Volkswagen Golf R32 only has TPMS dictated by the ABS wheel sensor , if it detects one wheel is spinning significantly slower compared to the rest or if it detects a dramatic change in tyre pressures from when it was last set through pre-set calculations the car "thinks" something is wrong and a little tyre light goes on with a single "DING" on the dash to let the owner know. in most cases whenever you see that light its good to pull over and check irregardless. However the caveat is this system does not actively display tyre pressures nor does it indicate which "wheel" is actually affected. so it is still very helpful to prevent an accident if the driver is focused but its missing a lot of other information.
      
      The latest Euro cars and some Jap cars actually come with a proper TPMS function that shows everything on the digital dash so you would not have to invest in such a system (also dependant on what trim model you purchased i.e sport , luxury etc..TBH every car should have it its a safety feature) but to be fair if your car doesn't have it , if you bought one and get it set up its kind-of like a set and forget at least for the first 5 years as internal TPMS sensors have around a 5 year battery life to which they would need to be replaced , and when you get into your car the information is there …as they always say prevention is better then a cure. Personally myself i've invested in an internal set that i was able to get at a Bargain , $152 for a "name brand" universal set... Not sure if they are any good but its from a 100% Aussie company thats been around since 2003 so i figure they must be doing something right , fingers crossed. Up to you whatever you choose , here's the main differences between the two types. If you opt for internal ones i would say get it before you get your tyres swapped over so you don't have to pay an additional charge for your tyres to be removed and refitted again , you would still get charged a tiny bit for the install though but if done right the first time around it will save you $100-150.
      
      RE: NRMA or any "roadside" for that matter , provided you weren't involved in a collision with another vehicle/animal/environment that initially rendered your car immobile, if they can't get your car mobile via their "limited" means at their disposal they will organize a tow for your car often to a nearest service center up to a pre-set distance as outlined in whatever policy you by ..usually its like 15km metro and 50km regional (which isn't much). The fact you don't have a spare tyre/replacable spare means nothing , they will still come out and have a look and if the tyre can't be repaired by the roadside for whatever reason its tow time.
      - justanick on 23/01/2022 - 01:09
        
        @[Deactivated]: Thanks again mate.
        I already bought the tyre pressure sensors through Amazon(link on my previous post). Looks very easy to do install by myself.
        
        Regards tyre inflator I will be buying a new one after your recommendation as the Xiomi one I have is useless.
        
        Also, my new rear tyre size 255/35 R19.96Y XL compared to 245/35 R19.96Y XL will the pressure be the same 36PSI - 37PSI ?
        
        Since the inflator will be an investment. I would like to use this often to pump up few psi down and not make a trip to the service station.
        Please let me know which one to buy.
        1) AstroAI Tire Inflator https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07QR4Q42L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_g…
        2) TATA Michelin Programmable High Power Rapid Digital Tyre Inflator 12 Volt Compressor with 0 to 30 PSI in 3 Minutes (12266), Black https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B00IERQC80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_g…
        3) Michelin Compact Digital Tyre Inflator Micro 12 Volt Compressor with Digital Gauge Accuracy from +/- 1 PSI up to 50 PSI (12264) https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07JQW6HBL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_g…
        
        Let me know what you would highly recommend.
        
        [Deactivated] on 23/01/2022 - 01:19
        
        +1
        
        @justanick: No problems
        
        Let me know what you would highly recommend.
        
        Pick 3) , its same price as Kogan currently in my post above , its a well known brand and i can confirm its a nice unit.
        
        Also, my new rear tyre size 255/35 R19.96Y XL compared to 245/35 R19.96Y XL will the pressure be the same 36PSI - 37PSI ?
        
        Yes same pressure will be fine however i suggest 40 PSI - Front and 38 PSI - Rear (Cold) to start with initially , increase or decrease from there. it is still recommended to stay within the manufacturer guidelines but +3 PSI Front or Rear is perfectly acceptable and more beneficial in the long term especially if you have a heavy vehicle and tyres that wide , both for comfort and fuel savings.
        
        justanick on 23/01/2022 - 01:34
        
        @[Deactivated]: Great thanks a lot. The Michelin 12264 doesn’t seem to have auto programmable pressure and the reviews are it’s very weak compared to 12266 and doesn’t go above 35psi easily ? Is that true ?
        Can I use these machines often without going to the service station for few psi down ?
        
        Also, did you see this one which I bought
        https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07BQRN51R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_g…
        
        Is this going to do the job?
        
        I would get the ones you got but not sure if Tempe tyres would be installing this for me.
        
        Edit: just wondering why we need more tyre pressure for the front and less for the rear ? I looked at my car manufacturers guidelines it says for cold normal load 36PSI front and rear. For heavy or max load 39PSI front and 45PSI rear.
        
        [Deactivated] on 23/01/2022 - 03:46
        
        +1
        
        @justanick:
        
        Great thanks a lot. The Michelin 12264 doesn’t seem to have auto programmable pressure and the reviews are it’s very weak compared to 12266 and doesn’t go above 35psi easily ? Is that true ?
        
        Not true , both have a function where you can pre-set a certain PSI ..it just doesn't have "pre-set" buttons for a specific PSI. but once you set it to say 33-36 etc the next time you use it , it should remember that setting. so you don't have to keep changing the value (compared to service stations which normally reset after 20 seconds)
        
        Can I use these machines often without going to the service station for few psi down ?
        
        Yes , i personally do my inflation pressures at home using these machines so i can get an accurate reading and saves me time and i also know the reading is more accurate ..most of the time service station air inflators are either broken or inaccurate or in use already when you get there.
        
        If you plan to do this frequently i suggest using a powerbank that has a cigarette lighter adapter to use as a power source instead of a running car (also reduce toxic fume inhalation etc) , such as something like This , it also doubles as a jump pack so if you can't start your car you can try this before calling out Roadside assistance.
        
        Also, did you see this one which I bought , Is this going to do the job?
        
        Yes it should do the job , but it will take up your cigarette lighter socket. but just remember you get what you pay for , let me know if its any good once you have set it up.
        
        Edit: just wondering why we need more tyre pressure for the front and less for the rear ? I looked at my car manufacturers guidelines it says for cold normal load 36PSI front and rear. For heavy or max load 39PSI front and 45PSI rear.
        
        In majority of vehicles (not all) , engines are generally at the front of the car therefor there is a lot of weight on the front tyres by comparison to the rear. Generally you are meant to put higher tyre pressure in the front to compensate and to keep the rolling radius relative between front and back
        
        The only time you would put higher tyre pressure in the rear is
        A. your manufacturer has specified (safety based on car design or function reasons)
        B. you want the car to have more of an Oversteer reaction when taking corners harder , rear end more prone to sliding out (i.e drifting etc)
        C. you have a lot of weight in the rear of the car (i.e fully loaded up) but even then your tyre placard will specify the tyre pressures required for optimal use.
        
        justanick on 23/01/2022 - 04:27
        
        +1
        
        @[Deactivated]: Thanks a lot I am placing an order for the tyre inflator which you mentioned and hope to keep it in my car.
        I already bought this (below link) power bank last year
        I guess now I need to just buy the cigarette lighter adapter.
        https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B0748D8KT6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_g…
        
        I’ll let you know how I go setting up the tyre sensors. Thank you so much again for your help, support and educating me.
        
        [Deactivated] on 23/01/2022 - 04:37
        
        +1
        
        @justanick: This is the sort of adapter you're looking for
        
        I’ll let you know how I go setting up the tyre sensors. Thank you so much again for your help, support and educating me.
        
        No problems. You're welcome for the help , the world and society around us is built by people helping each other.
        
        Good Luck , All the best.
        
        justanick on 23/01/2022 - 05:00
        
        @[Deactivated]: Just ordered the adapter after your recommendation :)
        Thank you again. I hope I can pass the knowledge to someone in the future.
        
        Now I’ll start educating myself on the below brake pads and disc/drum. I can’t seem to find out what’s this disc and minimum requirement etc
        
        [Deactivated] on 23/01/2022 - 05:36
        
        +1
        
        @justanick: I can't give advice on the Disc/Drum rotor thickness as each car has different size/brand (genuine/aftermarket etc) and i would be a little out of my depth on that one.
        
        I can say however if your front pads were measured at 4mm , its still got life left in them but they are more then half worn and you would have a significantly less responsive braking capability.
        
        Standard brake pad thickness when new range from 8mm to 12mm on average and generally they are meant to be replaced when they are down to 3mm as a "just in case" so there's a less likely-hood of the pads glazing the disc and/or warping the rotors which requiring a resurfacing of the disc or replacement depending how bad it is otherwise if you put a new set of brake pads on they will wear down faster and unevenly and you wont be braking as effective as well (might get shuddering etc)
        
        80% of your braking comes from the front's so i would be looking at getting that looked into , but if your rear brake pad is 1.5mm i would be ripping that off ASAP and getting that done first before you ruin your rear discs. I don't think you want to know how much it would cost for a set of rotors on a Merc for Genuine parts.
        
        Its hard to tell someone how long their brakes will last because everyone's style of driving is different , but i would say you have at least 5000-10,000km on the front if driving moderately just to be safe (given the fact you have a heavy car with big wheels and presumably big brakes) but if the back truly is 1.5mm i can't really say for sure but maybe 2000-3000km but i'd say thats really pushing it, your style of driving might also play a huge factor in it because the W205 is RWD so you might be getting a lot of traction control kicking in which will automatically brake your wheels to stop wheel spin which wears the rear pads down faster (in part due to your worn tyres you will replace soon , other part is yourself as the driver). I'd say if you drove on it gently for the next 2000km you should be right until you can get the pad's changed all around.
        
        My recommendation is to do the whole set , Front + Rear as it will work out cheaper doing both at the same time in the long run. check sparesbox and also shop around elsewhere and see if you can find any sale on for brake pads suitable for your car , if unsure just give them a ring and make sure anything you buy from them will fit your car as ive ordered there previously and sometimes their "fit's your car" feature on the website is inaccurate but their prices can be good when they have deals on.
        
        justanick on 23/01/2022 - 13:10
        
        @[Deactivated]: Thank you so much again for this post.
        Mercedes is going to charge me $500 to change the rear pads. I’ll call them on Monday morning to replace the fronts. 5000km will be done in 5-6 months for me and don’t want to revisit my dealership for this.
        
        justanick on 30/01/2022 - 23:35
        
        @[Deactivated]: Hi mate,
        
        I am still waiting on my car from MB dealership. Got couple of queries.
        My front tyres followed by rear are as follows.
        Size: 225/40 R19
        Size: 255/35 R19
        I already paid 50% deposit to Tempe tyres to get the Goodyear tyres that you recommended.
        1) As per my Car’s specification sticker in drivers side both front and rear tyre pressure at normal load is 240kpa or 34-35psi both are the same. Even for high load. My loan car sticker has higher pressure in front and lower in rear. Should I still pump up the front tyres and lower on rear wheels? If yes, could you please let me know the psi pressure for both?
        2)I ordered the Michelin tyre inflator which you recommended. The pressure is coming 1.5-2psi more when I check with my smaller Michelin tyre pressure device. Is something wrong with the inflator? Is it safe to have 2+ Psi more on the tyres?
        
        [Deactivated] on 31/01/2022 - 18:42
        
        @justanick:
        
        Should I still pump up the front tyres and lower on rear wheels? If yes, could you please let me know the psi pressure for both?
        
        Stick with 38F / 36R PSI (cold) initially. when they get hot the front should be 40 and the rear 38 which should be pretty optimal for the street and comfort based on your car's tyre inflation placard. I have a car that weighs almost identical in weight (1550kg) and i find it preferable to run 40 Front / 38 Rear , the car just handles better and is more tolerant of road imperfections/pot holes and the overall ride feels more stable/sturdy with an improvement in steering turn-in.
        
        The pressure is coming 1.5-2psi more when I check with my smaller Michelin tyre pressure device. Is something wrong with the inflator?
        
        1-2 PSI (max) difference is generally "acceptable" when you are comparing any Tyre gauge (digital or not) , in an ideal situation you are meant to check your pressures on a fully flat surface when cold (not driven at all) and without the car being loaded as it will give a different reading.
        
        On your Tyre sidewall itself , it will indicate the "max pressure" that you can inflate your Tyre to (COLD) , usually its about 50 PSI (i.e it will state do not inflate higher then 50 PSI) , so if you were to randomly put up to 44 PSI all around when driven on the street they should not heat up any more past 46 unless your on the highway doing extended speed on a hot summer day in direct sunlight so you would still be within the safe parameters as advised by the Tyre manufacturer.
        
        So realistically its safe to put anything from 42 PSI and below within the context I've specified. its all personal preference as advised , some cars are heavier so need higher pressure , some cars are lighter so they do better with lower pressures. but the specification sticker on the driver door is usually set from the manufacturer as a "comfort" setting rather then a handling/performance/fuel saving perspective.
        
        Think about it in a different way , the lower your pressures the closer your wheel is to the ground essentially ..so if you have 19 inch wheels which are pretty huge and heavy and then hit a pothole …the only thing saving your wheel from basically splitting open or buckling under the hit is your tyres and also the air in between giving that "balloon effect".
        
        If you ever have to drive down an absolutely shocking road (i.e Wise mans ferry road heading towards Greengrove just past Spencer ) you most definitely want to A. not be driving there on 19 inch wheels and B. if you do you will want at least 40 PSI Front and Rear to survive it with "normal sedate driving" based on your low profile tyres of only 35 and 40 (your tyre height of your front and rear wheels)
        
        Its simple physics , the more air between you and the road the safer it is (within limits)..too much air and its a trade-off for comfort …too less and wheel damage is likely to occur.
        
        Between your car and the road , the road is going to win every time.
        
        Is it safe to have 2+ Psi more on the tyres?
        
        Perfectly
        
        justanick on 01/02/2022 - 18:59
        
        +1
        
        @[Deactivated]: Thank you so much mate. I don’t know what I would have done if I didn’t get your inputs. I’m a lot more educated now. I’ll definitely update you once I get my car from servicing and change of the new tyres.
        
        Could you please do me a favour and add me to your buddy list so that I can ask you something in the future?
        
        [Deactivated] on 01/02/2022 - 22:17
        
        @justanick: OZB doesn't have a "friend" system unfortunately but feel free to PM me if you like.
        
        justanick on 02/02/2022 - 00:34
        
        @[Deactivated]: Hey mate just tried sending you a private message but couldn’t send a message. It says “ The specified recipient does not accept new conversations.”..
        
        I think you have disabled the private message function.
        
        [Deactivated] on 02/02/2022 - 00:36
        
        @justanick: just checked , all fixed. try again.
        
        justanick on 02/02/2022 - 00:50
        
        @[Deactivated]: Thanks again. I have sent you a message.
- Lichen6420 on 23/01/2022 - 03:53
  
  The brakes thing could be interesting. How many KMs does your car have on it and have you ever done a set of front pads ?
  - justanick on 23/01/2022 - 04:35
    
    Mercedes mechanic report had the below.
    Front pads/shoe = 4mm
    Front disc/drum = 28.5mm
    
    Rear pads/shoe = 1.5mm
    Read disc/drum = 11.3mm
    
    I don’t know much about the min value and how much more I can drive. All I know is the rear pads had to be changed. But what’s the min level?
    I don’t want a situation where I’ve to go bd k again in few months or ask them to be replaced too early.
justanick on 23/01/2022 - 00:18

FYI
I bought TPMS from here https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07BQRN51R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_g…

I also changed my insurance provided to AAMI as they were providing free roadside assistance.

1) What else can I purchase as a tyre puncture insurance? I already got the Xiomi portable tyre inflator
2) since I don’t have a spare tyre do you know if the roadside assistance can get me a spare tyre or they can’t help me?

Car Tyre profile education help needed

Comments

New Forum Topics