Getting an Old Spa up and Running & Saltwater Pool System "Quirks"

donbot on 29/10/2021 - 09:22

I'm hopeful someone here will have some knowledge to share on what to do in this scenario. I've been warned by a family friend whos had a pool for many a year that many pool/spa shops will gauge you for every dollar possible, given most people dont know squat about them, so I'm dubious about getting their advice first up.

I've bought a house with an older saltwater pool & spa, and hoping to pick someones brain more knowledgeable than I on the matter.

Pool

Filter pump will sometimes lose prime when turned off (not consistent though, sometimes it does, sometimes it doesnt). No immediate source of air getting in as once primed, the returns to the pool blow clear water (practically zero bubbles). Am going to try and clean the impeller this weekend to see if any debris/hair tangled up in there, but otherwise I'm a bit stumped as once it gets primed, it doesnt blow bubbles and fills the chlorinator nearly 100% with water - any other ideas? Maybe replace the Oring on the pump and lubricate it to make sure a great seal there?

Sand filter - pressure gauge doesnt work. From what I read, this is a common problem. It looks like they've used some form of putty to try and seal the pressure gauge on there though - its like dried clay around the gauge connecting it. I'm thinking removing it might cause more problems than good - if I regularly backwash the filter (weekly?), I should be OK?

Chlorinator on/off switch doesnt work, but using on the timer setting it turns on/off, aswell as the super chlorinate button - so I'm not too concerned about the manual on/off. I think I probably need to clear the fins as I've found with this whole house, upkeep wasnt their strong suit - worthwhile doing or a case of if its not broken, dont fix it?

Solar works well - return does blow a lot of bubbles into the pool though. Dont think that matters a great deal as it doesnt seem to have any problems with priming and heats the pool on sunny days. Controller does what it says it should do on the little guide next to the controller - turns on 10mins/day in winter mode, and samples the water when on auto setting to make sure the roof is hot enough to heat the pool.

Pool Chemicals - Chemistry was never my strong suit, but other than the chlorine being a bit high (it is dropping with heavy rain and sun we've had in Melb recently), I feel I've got this somewhat under control.

Spa

The previous owners said they never got it going in the 7 years they lived here…to be honest, I dont think it was their priority as they renovated the house. Not sure the status of it at all, and am a bit nervous as I dont think the wiring has an RCD to prevent shocks attached to it. I'm thinking to start off with an electrician to give it a once over and inspect it from an electrical point of view before filling with water.

Pump - starts up. No idea if it pumps as the whole system is dry.

Cartridge Filter - no idea.

Gas Heater - no idea. Gas plumber I had out to service Central Heating said once we get the spa full of water, to give him a yell and he can see if it still works, but I'm nervous to do fill the spa due to unknown status of electrics, and having no idea how to empty it if we fill it!

Spa itself - no idea as its built into a deck, so cant see any of the surrounds without pulling apart some of the deck. Not sure what I'd be looking at if I did, or what the electrics are of a spa?

So Pool/Spa gurus of OzB, what would you do (particularly with the Spa) in this situation? I know its going to cost me money to get the spa up and running, but I'd rather not be taken for a complete ride in the process.

Home & Garden Spa

Comments

  • MS Paint on 29/10/2021 - 09:34

    To me it sounds like you're all over it.

    With the spa I would definitely start with an electrical inspection, then gas plumber. Put in a new cartridge which you can probably obtain cheaper from an online retailer.

    With the pool check the O ring in the salt water cell holder also. Any sign of perishing or crushing just replace it.

    Is there a check valve between the pump and the pool? This can also help with not losing prime. If there is it may be jammed open with debris.

    With the chlorinator, pull it apart as far as practical and give it a big clean out. Cobwebs and debris will make the unit run hotter and slowly destroy electrical components.

    • donbot on 29/10/2021 - 09:49

      Thanks. I have spent many an evening googling/reading to try and educate myself on whats what before posting this.

      As to an electrician - just a normal, qualified electrician? I've got to get one out for a bit of work anyway (power points/aircon wire up/lights/etc), so I could just add the spa to the list to do an inspection on? With the spa being built into the deck - is there any value in him getting access underneath the spa? I can probably remove a few boards to get access to one side of underneath the spa which has the button controls on it?

      As for a check valve - I dont know, but I doubt it. Unfortunately there is very limited access to the pool plumbing as its either underground or underneath the decking built around the pool area (this has been in place for decades). Would such a valve generally be near the pool pump/filter? If so, I'm confident there isnt a check valve.

      Will check the salt water cell O ring and replace if damaged when giving it a clean out.

      • MS Paint on 29/10/2021 - 09:56

        Any qualified domestic electrician will be able to assist so just ask the guy you have for other work.

        The better and quicker the access is to the spa electrical areas for the sparky then the less they will charge (theoretically speaking anyway).

        Check valve could be anywhere but typically near the pump. It likely looks like this or this and depending on the type used it may have an access panel for cleaning and inspecting it's O ring.

        • AndyC1 on 29/10/2021 - 10:04

          Check the powerboard to ensure the circuit breakers all have RCD protection and if not get the sparky to change them.

          Also get the sparky to check or inspect that the number of power points on each of the circuits to ensure that the circuit is not overloaded or more GPO's than is legal.

          • donbot on 29/10/2021 - 11:47

            @AndyC1: Will do, thanks for the heads up. The googling of spa and electrocution makes me nervous enough, so happy to get him to do it properly!

        • donbot on 29/10/2021 - 11:46

          No such luck with the check valve - doesnt look like anything there. The pool has existed for >20 years without one it seems.

          Did notice a slight 'drip' coming from the union join between the sand filter and the salt water cell. Maybe thats enough to allow air in that the pump loses prime?

          Might remove some of the decking to inspect whats under there - cant hurt for him to have access.

          • MS Paint on 29/10/2021 - 12:17

            @donbot: If there's a drip point that also means an air leakage point. Definitely reseat that join.

  • Euphemistic on 29/10/2021 - 10:24
    +1

    Thanks. I have spent many an evening googling/reading to try and educate myself on whats what before posting this.

    It’s a nice change for someone to come in educated before asking questions.

    I have spent a fair bit at the local pool shop, but don’t think they are ripping me off. Advice has usually been sound.

    Our sand filter huge doesn’t work either, I just backwash when I think of it, but our pool doesn’t get overly dirty. Not a lot of leaf litter or dirt gets into it. If you are backwashing regularly and the water coming out doesn’t seem too dirty, reduce the frequency.

    • donbot on 29/10/2021 - 11:53

      Thanks for the reply. When you say comes out dirty - do you mean from the little viewing window of the filter, or is there something else I should be looking at? I assume it is the little window - as the rest is either PVC pipe - so not sure what else I could see?

      Nice to know the gauge isnt a make or break. I am subject to a lot of leaf litter and dirt (dirt should subside once the grass nearby the pool grows and fills out the dirt patch), and the cyclonic leaf bucket attached to the pool cleaner does a good job to minimise the leaf litter going into the skimmer box/filter. When I start to see the salt water cell 'half full' as opposed to about 95% full of water, I figure its in need of a backwash… about weekly seems to work about right.

      A visit to the pool shop is in order absolutely - but first port of call is the sparky and a gas plumber following on from here (which was my thinking anyway), both of which doesnt require pool shop intervention. I dont mind paying where someone adds value - not making a few calls and adding a premium on top for arranging the above, particularly when I've got to get a sparky out anyway for other items.

      • Euphemistic on 29/10/2021 - 12:18

        Our backwash pumps water into a nearby drain (hope that’s legal!). When I use the backwash normally the water that comes out after a few seconds is usually green/brown in colour for a while and the water in the window does the same. I wait until both are clear before turning back to filter.

        • donbot on 29/10/2021 - 15:13

          I think its got to wash into your sewer drainage, not your stormwater?

          In any event, I cant see that as mines all plumbed through to drainage - nothing visible.

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