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Flashforge PLA Silk 3D Printer Filament from $24.99 + Delivery (Free with Prime/ $39 Spend) @ Flashforge via Amazon AU

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Amazon currently have a sale on Flashforge Silk PLA Filament most down to $24.99 from $32.99. I've used one of their rolls before and found that it was on par with eSun silk PLA.

They also have a sale on select few colours of their regular PLA (https://www.amazon.com.au/Flashforge%C2%AE-Filaments-Spool-D…) for $23.80 down from $26.99.

Reviews of both of their PLA and silk PLA are pretty good on amazon.com and rating of 4.6 and 4.7 out of 5 stars. They also have a sub-brand of PLA+ called VOXELAB which I've used before (Yellow and Orange) and have found it to be outstanding and better than eSun PLA+.

Even though its all fulfilled by Amazon Prime, delivery times isn't great currently (I guess due to lockdowns).

Related Stores

Amazon AU
Amazon AU
Marketplace
Flashforge AU Official
Flashforge AU Official

closed Comments

  • Awesome price on Gold, bought some more thanks

  • Cheers

  • Thanks, grabbed a reel of Silk Gold.

  • Can anyone recommend and good matte PLA at a decent price?

    • +2

      PolyTerra is probs the cheapest. You should try printing a temp tower on your PLA, lower temps can mean a more matte finish on some filaments.

      • They are next on my list to try. They have some nice colours. Thanks

        • So far i've only used PolyTerra and I have really loved it!

      • +1

        Noting you can lose strength doing so

    • +1

      I use Monocure Matte PLA, not too expensive (especially with their 3 or 5 pack discount) and the quality is very good compared to cheap normal PLA I mostly use. Bit softer/gummier but I think that's just how matte filaments work.

  • +1

    How does this compare to eSun PLA?

    • +3

      In OP

      found that it was on par with eSun silk PLA

  • +4

    Anyone got a deal/link for an Ender 3 V2 for me to use this in? Think I am finally ready to pull the trigger and jump into the 3D printing world!

    • No link sorry - though goodluck and welcome to the crewđź‘Ť

    • consider an Ender 3 Pro as well. Not a big difference, and much cheaper.

    • not just now, you missed the last E3V2 special.
      But as an aside, also check out the Voxelab Aquila. It's an E3 clone that's got some nice changes and is often cheaper.

      • Ye currently a sale for it on amazon as well for ~$250 not the lowest but you can't get the Aquila anywhere else other than amazon now from what I've seen.

      • Was going to suggest the Voxelab Aquila. It's a very nice printer especially for the price, can do a couple of upgrades for it and still walk away with it being significantly cheaper than the E3V2.

        Still have to get around to replacing the fans, the PSU and motherboard fan are deafening..

        • I have the aquila. I haven't replaced any of those things you mentioned. But I've an all metal hotend and a new printed fan shroud for that because I mostly print PETG at 245 (I run Marlin custom firmware). One variety of their chipset can't have custom firmware though.

          • @peekabooo: Which hot end did you go with?

            • @impoze: Generic all metal hotend (titanium heat break they say). I placed 2 orders from 2 different sellers from ebay and aliexpress. I put the first one I received and it's been good so far.

          • @peekabooo: It's the H32 chipset for others to see. They are working on changing the compiler to get around this now tho

          • @peekabooo: I tried PETG for first time the other week, short prints were fine but anything more than a few hours seemed to get heat creep and clog up.

            Looking at new cooling now to run those temps!

            • @camshandez: Do you have an all metal hotend? Get one of those with no supporting screws. A bad clog is the reason why I changed mine. I run the stock fan with a sastana style shroud.

              • @peekabooo: Naah stock hot end, I upgraded the PTFE tube prior to test it out but that didn't help enough.

                Just setup an OctoPrint server on a Pi4 so Will look at all metal hotend now for the next upgrade

                • @camshandez: Unless the ptfe tube is cut perfectly and leave no gap, there's no way to prevent nozzle clog on stock extruder. All metal hotend also clogs but so easy to fix (just push it through after heating to a higher temperature).

                  • @peekabooo: A printer washer helps. Take a few minutes to print and seconds to install

                    • @DoesntEvenMatter: It does.. but I'm talking about the end of the ptfe tube where it hits hotend. The spot where most the clogs form.

    • I went a different route and got this one recently:
      https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Longer-LK4-3D-Printer-DIY-Kit-20…

      Pretty happy with it. Simple enough to setup and use

  • Does anyone find printing with silk PLA much harder than regular PLA?

    I couldn't get it to stick to the bed at all tonight.
    Swapped out the roll with regular PLA and used the same gcode and it was fine.

    Smaller models seem fine. But anything bigger than say 6cm has issues.

    I'm using some generic eBay silk PLA. Only a few days old.
    215c initial print temp, 65c initial bed temp
    210c and 60c normal.temp. 0.3mm layer height.

    Cleaned the bed with isopropyl alcohol and still no luck.

    • Can't comment on your specific PLA, but I found that calibrating bed level at points just outside the print area works well. Many beds aren't perfectly flat, so if you have a small dip in the centre your adhesion will suffer. Of course, this is not relevant if you use a BL Touch or equivalent. Could also try keeping the bed 65c throughout the print, that 5c may be cooling it enough to contract and pop off.

      • I normally use a Pokemon card to level the bed and it works fine for regular PLA.

        It didn't work well with silk so I tried regular A4 80gsm paper but still no luck. It looked like it was printing too far away from the bed to adhere. I will try lowering the initial print height to 0.16mm and see if that helps.

        • Try enabling skirting in your slicer. That way you can see pretty quickly if adhesion will be an issue, and adjust the bed height up on the fly.

          • @Cyb3rGlitch: Yeah I have a brim on. The brim wouldn't stick at all so I cancelled the print immediately.

            Will try again tomorrow.

            Reluctant to buy more silk PLA till I get this working properly

        • Maybe try babystepping down a bit as the print starts until it sticks

    • +2

      Wash the bed with dish washing liquid and water, Only way for me to get the bed clean as Iso wont work

      And try lowering the "Initial Layer Height"

    • If all else fails try rubbing a glue stick over the print area, makes clean up a bitch though

    • Print on a different unusual spot of your bed. Should fix it and if it does, either your bed is uneven or the leveling is off.

      • Ok I leveled it over and over again and finally got it printing ok

        Also set first layer height to 0.16 and width to 150% (using 0.4mm nozzle)

        Ordered some more filament but sadly the red one i wanted sold out.

    • I use a glass bed and coat it with 10-15% PVA glue solution. Works perfectly and the print is easy to take off once the bed cools down.

      • Ewww just get a PEI magnetic sheet, no mess and much easier to work with

        • Magnetic sheets aren't perfect. Particularly if you regularly use high bed temps for other filaments which demagnetise them.

        • It works for me perfectly. I don’t Have to use the solution before each build. I do it once in a few months. It works well for me, I haven’t had a failed build for ages. I don’t want to fix something that’s not broken :)

        • I agree that they are easier, but hell glass beds are really better exept for removing prints (sometimes)

    • EBay generic filament is generally shit. I bought sunsilk silver silk PLA+ and it prints beautifully, looks uhhmazing.

  • I just bought $300+ filament - thanks OP!

  • +1

    just arrived, colour looks great

    Will report back after printing something with it

    • Which colour did you get?

      Mine (green) is due today

      • red and yellow

        the yellow sure is bright, almost neon like

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