Need Help with Refrigerator Size for Cavity

Hi all,

I have a kitchen cavity that is 920mm wide and 1796mm high (note that depth isn't an issue for this fridge)

I have a Samsung fridge that I want to purchase that is 833m wide and 1793mm high.

The product page says that fridge is designed for a cavity that is 900m wide and 1800m high.

I spoke to Samsung live chat who linked me to a page that says the sides need 50mm of clearance and the top needs 100mm of clearance. I then spoke to a rep on the phone who was probably in the Phillipines, who said that the height isn't really an issue if you have decent clearance on the sides and behind.

When I spoke to a sales rep at Harvey Norman, he seemed to suggest that because this unit has an evaporator(?) on the top (it was a metal box attached to fridge), there needs to be a couple of cm clearance.

Can anyone shed some light on whether its possible for me to get the fridge into this cavity without any major performance issues?

Thanks in advance.

Comments

  • 1800 - 1793 = 7.
    7 < 100.
    Someone's lying.

    • It's all pretty confusing.

      My hope was that if it was designed for a 1800mm height and mine is 1796, that I could get away with it maybe.

    • Id be getting a shorter fridge with adequate clearance
      000s around at various prices
      But yes

  • Go look at it in store?

  • +1

    For my fridge (westinghouse) there was a requirement of approx 80mm clearance on top. I think it's important to adhere to the clearance guidelines as it helps with ventilation of heat output.

    • Yes but what I'm saying is, the product page says this:

      "Slim Fit design for a standard 1800mm high / 900mm wide cavity, common in many Australian kitchens."

      Yet on another page Samsung can say that it needs 100mm clearance? That doesn't seem at all fair or right.

      • +2

        Can you find the actual product manual which will list the correct specifications? Instead of just the product page.

  • they need room for air flow
    is there enough room at the back? is it open

  • the width matters if you have walls cabinets next to the fridge that may impede the opening of the door..

    most fridge spaces are deep and are open at the top behind the cabinet for ventilation

    for example i only have about 10mm of space around the entire fridge…

    except on one sidewall is slightly longer than the cabinet on the other side.. so my double door fridge cant open the whole way only 90 degrees on one side.. whilst the other side can open the whole way,

  • Does the cabinet above run to the all the way to the back?

    • No, it stops around 15cm short of the wall.

      • +2

        This is to vent the fridge the height is fine.

        • +1

          Ok thank you, so even only 3mm clearance is OK since there is enough overall space at the back for air to travel? I guess it has nowhere to vent though since its enclosed by wall.

          • +1

            @fivespice: If you look up into the void behind the fridge top cupboard can see open space or ceiling? You can also vent back into the top cupboard.

  • +2

    The real question is why in gods name do you want to get a Samsung fridge? From what I hear from around the ozbargain community they're nothing but trouble.

    • I didn't know this so it is good to know. I have renovated my kitchen so I am looking for the cleanest fit with the least gaps and this Samsung fits the bill.

      If the lack of space at the top will affect the performance of the fridge, there is an alternative Westinghouse that I am happy to get.

      • +1

        I’d look into Mitsubishi electric, also on appliances online you can see all the measurements of most fridges. There is a filter so you can adjust search to your fridge space dimensions.

      • +1

        I am looking for the cleanest fit with the least gaps and this Samsung fits the bill.

        Well that is dumb. The gaps are to stop the fridge from overheating and dying. If you have $1200 to throw away every few years, then go for it.

        If you want no gaps you need to install extra ventilation, like a vent into the roof cavity behind the fridge. Or buy a fridge designed for flush installation.

  • Check the Samsung warranty T&Cs as to whether the clearance is mentioned. If you really want the fridge then best to confirm that warranty isn't voided if clearance not provided as per Samsung specs

    • And you'd find it's too tall for the cavity when it arrives….1798mm height in a 1796mm hole isn't going to work

  • +1

    As long as it has clearance around the sides it shouldn't need clearance at the top. It's normally about airflow, so the warm air at the back can transfer away.

    HOWEVER, what you may have issues with is adjusting the feet to give you a flat or slightly leant backwards fridge.

    • This makes sense, I'm leaning towards getting the fridge and hoping for the best lol

      • +1

        I think 3mm is cutting it too fine. Have you checked to ensure the cabinet above is perfectly square and you've definitely got 1796mm at all points?

        I went through this myself in a rental. My fridge was 820mm wide and I measured the space as 824mm so I thought it would just squeeze in, wrong! The space wasn't perfectly square so it got half way in then wedged on both sides. That fridge lived in the garage for the ~12 months I lived there.

        What are you gonna do if you buy it and it doesn't fit?

        • Good points and thanks for your experience. We have checked this, as this was a recent reno the cabinetry was done to a solid standard so it is all the same height throughout.

          If it doesn't fit then.. I would have to absorb the re-stocking fee or just resell it and pay for my mistake.

    • You want more clearance at the top rear than the sides. Hot air will rise, not get pushed out the sides to the front.
      Most 833mm wide fridges are advertised as fitting an 850mm alcove but you need 50mm at the back.

  • Installation clearances are listed in the manual, which you can find on their website….usually minimum of 50mm at the back. You may also have a little bit of clearance at the top as the overall height will include the hinge for the door. If you've got overhead cupboards, they will include vent space at the back of the cavity which is where the heat is going to be.

    I'd go Fisher & Paykel, even LG over Samsung

    • I understand this and I've checked the manual but their clearances on the manual are vastly different to whats on their product page. I think its absurd for Samsung to say that the fridge is designed for X sized recess and then in their manual say the recess should provide Y clearance.

  • Don’t buy a Samsung (or LG) fridge. Stick with brands with a better reputation for reliability eg Westinghouse, Electrolux, Mitsubishi, Kelvinator.

  • Have a look at this one https://www.harveynorman.com.au/electrolux-529l-right-hinge-… If the size is OK then look around for price. I bought it from HN and they gave me a good discount for asking but most HN are franchised so all different responses to discounting requests.

    You need good airspace around the fridge for it to be long lasting and efficient. You don't need the fridge to run all day to try and get to the temp because it can't get rid of the heat.

  • A refrigerator sized cavity?
    How big is your teeth?!?

  • Stressing over cavity being 4mm below recommendation?
    I'd look at a lowering job — check the feet.

  • You should be ok

  • And as much as you might think "surely having less space won't really affect things".
    I have a friend that just replaced her Miele fridge. It's an integrated model so needs proper vent grates at kick board at the bottom and at the top. It failed after about six years. Apparently it was not installed with the "correct" or "enough" ventilation. The compressor works harder, longer duty cycle, and wore out. Of course, there was no option of just replacing the compressor - new fridge please. They kicked up a stink and got 30% discount, but still. They also got their kitchen company in and they re-modelled that part of the kitchen to provide more ventilation.
    Anyway, the point I wanted to make is yes, pay attention to the ventilation clearances in the manual.

  • +1

    Something I have always done is install a small fan or fans (like computer fans) that will turn on when the compressor runs and then off when not running.

    It does require a bit of cable fiddling and connecting but it is not rocket science and it does work like a dream cooling all external parts that need cooling.

    Recommended if confident with doing the wiring safely.

    • That's a good idea - so did you open up the back of the fridge and wire the fan to the fridge electrics? Where is the fan mounted and oriented?

      • +2

        Wires are accessible around the compressor area without undoing any cover.
        Then it is just a matter of using those two wires powering the compressor when running (not the capacitor ones).

        As our fridge was into a nasty tight cavity I ended up installing one blowing air on the compressor itself, another pointing up from the bottom to cool the back and then yet another right on top to blow hot air out of this hellish cavity.
        Probably too many fans but protecting the ice cream inside the freezer section was and is a matter of death or … or worse! :-)

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