Dell G7 17 7700 i7-10750H 16GB RAM 512GB SSD RTX 2070 Max P 144hz Display

For all of us that have bought this amazing laptop, here are some points that can help you set it up:

  • Change RAID to AHCI to avoid reinstalling Windows in the future if we use a second drive:
    Completely recommended to reinstall Windows from scratch as it will boost your battery life from 2 hours to up to 5-7 hours compared with the factory Windows.
    Youtube tutorial to change to AHCI

  • Mounting bracket, screws, and heatsink for secondary SSD: Thanks @PediatricLemon
    https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B07RRNC5WD/ref=ppx_od_d…

  • To measure heat and wattage, use HWiNFO64 and RivaTuner server: Thanks @kml22
    Tutorial measure temp

  • To check the hardware inside, you can use CPU-Z:
    CPU-Z

  • Undervolting GPU guide for the Dell G7 17 7700: Thanks @Dipaty!

For some reason Dell has set in the BIOS of the GPU to automatically overclock up to 1900mhz when gaming (despite the GPU being rated at 1450mhz). However, when it does this it pulls obscene voltages through it, causing a lot of unnecessary heat with little to no real performance gain.
The solution? Limit the voltage that can be pulled through the GPU and thus, the maximum clock that it can push up to.

  1. Open MSI Afterburner.

  2. Press Ctrl + F to open the Volatge Frequency curvegraphic.

3.1. To limit the maximum GPU voltage to 0.8 and maximum clock to 1560mhz double click in the point and a yellow dotted line should appear like this:
https://imgur.com/a/Mu0ncSx

3.2. Select the point in the intersection of 1560 and 800 and click Ctrl + L, changing the curve to this shape:
https://imgur.com/L7xzHzf

A quick guide on how to use MSI Afterburner to limit the GPU voltage, view these video guides:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2xABgzp_1w
https://youtu.be/rV0tWKLAprg

  • Undervolting CPU guide for the Dell G7 17 7700: Thanks again @Dipaty!

Thanks to reddit users VanGoghComplex and Snoozehead for finding the intial fix and their thorough troubleshooting.

Initially, the laptop has undervolting disabled in the BIOS, but there is a way to unlock it…

PLEASE NOTE: I take no responsibility for any damage you may cause to your system, this is an "Advanced" process so proceed with caution.

If you're using BIOS version 1.2 (or earlier) you can skip Step 1 and use the values 0x3e for CFG Lock and 0xda for OC Lock.
If you're using a different BIOS version (or a different Dell laptop altogether) please follow from Step 1.

Step 1: Finding the correct values to change in the BIOS.
a) Download this Python script to extract the BIOS files from the dell bios exe file. https://github.com/platomav/BIOSUtilities/blob/master/Dell%2…
You will need to also install Python for this section to work: https://www.python.org/downloads/

b) Download UEFITool from this link to search in the BIOS files for the location of the values we need to find. https://github.com/LongSoft/UEFITool

c) Download the Dell BIOS file from the dell website that you currently have installed (if you're using an old bios version and would like to unlock undervolting then install that BIOS version first).

d) Download Universal IFR Extractor from this link to search for the names of the values we need to set to 0 in the BIOS to unlock the undervolt. http://bios-mods.com/pub/donovan6000/Software/Universal%20IF…

e) Place the Dell BIOS exe file in the same folder as the python script and then run the script. The script should open a command-prompt looking window, you'll need to type out the exact filepath to the DELL BIOS exe file. This will then create a new folder with the content files inside.

f) Launch UEFITool and then open (open image file) the first file that was extracted by the python script (in my case it's called "1 — 1 System BIOS with BiosGuard v1.2.0.bin").

g) Go to Action>Search and then go to the "Text" tab and type in "CFG Lock" (without the quotation marks). In the bottom section of the window it should find 1 result. Double-click the result to navigate to it (in my case it took me to a line that says "PE32 image section". Right click this line and press "Extract as is". Save the extracted file.

h) Launch Universal IFR Extractor and navigate to the file that you extract in "g)". This will save a text document with readable information. YAY! A document that we can actually read and isn't just code…

i) Open the file that was created in "h)"and search (CTRL+F) for "CFG Lock". This should take you to a line that will look something like this: "0x74FAC Setting: CFG Lock, Variable: 0x3E {0..". The section we are looking for is what it says after Variable: (in this case 0x3E).
This is your CFG Lock code. This is the name of the section that we need to set to 0 in your BIOS. A few lines under this section you should see a section that looks something like this: "0x74FCD Setting: Overclocking Lock, Variable: 0xDA {0.." This is the code for your OC Lock (in this case 0xDA).

Now that we've got our CFG Lock and OC Lock codes we can proceed to Step 2…
.
.

Step 2: Changing the values of your CFG Lock and OC Lock in your BIOS.
a)Format a spare USB drive to FAT32 on a GUID partition map.
If you're unsure whether your drive is GUID or not, go to Disk Manager in windows, right click the USB drive and go to Properties>Volumes and it'll say it next to partition style.
If you're unsure of how to change to a GUID partition map, please follow these instructions: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-server/storage/disk…

b) Make a folder in the root of the USB (the main folder of the USB) called EFI.

c) Make a folder in EFI called BOOT.

d) Download this file (the one called grubx64.efi) and place it in the BOOT folder. https://github.com/XDleader555/grub_setup_var/releases/tag/v…

e) Rename the file to bootx64.efi

f) Reboot to your BIOS (spam F2 on your keyboard when booting up the laptop).

g) Disable Secure Boot in your BIOS. Save/Apply Changes and Exit.

h) Spam F12 when booting to load the One Time Boot Menu and select your USB Drive from the list of options. This will boot into the USB.

i) Once it has loaded, type in the following command (be very sure you type it in correctly): setup_var CpuSetup 0x3e 0x0
PLEASE NOTE: If you did Step 1 of this guide, then replace "0x3e" with the code you got for your CFG Lock. Make sure to keep the 0x0 there though as this is the command that turns the lock off.

j) Type in the following command (be very sure you type it in correctly): setup_var CpuSetup 0xda 0x0
PLEASE NOTE: If you did Step 1 of this guide, then replace "0xda" with the code you got for your OC Lock. Make sure to keep the 0x0 there though as this is the command that turns the lock off.

NOTE: All of the 0 in the previous points are actual zeros (the number, not the letter).

k) Type in the following command: reboot

l) Spam F2 whilst booting to load back into your BIOS settings and re-enable Secure Boot. Save/Apply Changes and Exit.
PLEASE NOTE: Some people have reported that they need to also reset the BIOS back to Factory Settings (not default settings) to make the undervolt unlock, but I personally didn't need to.

CONGRATULATIONS! You've just unlocked undervolting on your laptop! Give yourself a pat on the back ;)
Now please feel free to pick your favourite undervolting program (Throttlestop or Intel XTU), I personally used Throttlestop.

Here's a guide for Throttlestop: https://www.ultrabookreview.com/31385-the-throttlestop-guide…
Here's a guide for Intel XTU: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Intel-Extreme-Tuning-Utility-X…

Please remember to test your undervolts for stability using your favourite CPU intentive benchmarking software. I personally used Cinebench R20 and the built in tests of Throttlestop.

I personally have an undervolt of -100mv going right now, but I'm still in the testing stage.
You WILL have different results to me as this all relies on the good ol' silicone lottery - some people will be lucky and get laptops that can achieve a significant undervolt, and unfortunately some wont.

Good Luck!

PS: our eternal thanks to @kml22 for his efforts to clarify the 2070 Max P and all the info provided.

Comments

  • Have you all had RAM upgraded to 32GB? I think that is the max. What is the best RAM to buy for this?

    • i have 32gb, I used the ripjaw 3200mhz kit, runs at 2933 cost under 300 from memory.

    • https://www.megabuy.com.au/gskill-ddr4-3200-16gb-single-chan…

      have 2 of these.have read others where the XMP profiles don't work so run at lower speeds even thought they are capable at 3200, so ripjaws 110% work.

      • Thanks for replying. Do you notice big difference in performance comparing with 16GB?

        • +1

          yeah i did actually well noticeable but depends on what you use it for

  • Heya all. I want to reinstall windows 10 because I've heard it does wonders for battery life (I'm lucky to get 2 hours with it currently with light browsing and word processing).

    Does reinstalling windows through dell support assist reinstall all the bloatware too or should I just do a clean install with a windows usb and download the apps I want?

    • +1

      Do the clean reinstall, through dell you'll get all the crap that comes by default, which drains battery.

  • +3

    For anyone interested, bios 1.10.0 does not affect undervolt

  • I returned mine after almost a year dealing with constant CPU and GPU throttling (10750H CPU, 2070 GPU).

    Dell replaced the entire cooling system, the motherboard, the CPU, the GPU and the trackpad but I found it ran like crap before and after.

    About 40% of the time the CPU hit over 90 degrees just booting into Windows.

    I had to initiate a case with the ACCC before Dell would accept the return….

    When I turned off Turbo boost in the bios the temps were a little lower on the CPU, but the thing ran like an absolute slug. Never again.

    I couldn't recommend this machine to anyone. The specs for the $ makes it look attractive but honestly I would avoid like the plague.

    Given that experience I am leaning towards a Lenovo Legion 7 as a replacement. The temps on it look to be class leading….

  • -1

    I have had this laptop about a month. When I bought it I fully expected some thermal issues from the reading I had done, but also expected that the techniques discussed by the OP and others would overcome this and make it quite a nice machine.

    Boy was I wrong!

    The real killer issue with this laptop is that the SYSTEM process (ntoskrnl.exe and drivers) is consuming 10-20% of available CPU cycles even at idle on the desktop. So instead of running at 800 MHz, the CPU runs at about 4.5 GHz (3.5 on battery) ALL THE TIME ON ALL 6 CORES!

    So instead of using about 2 W at idle, the CPU package consumes over 20W, literally doing nothing.

    Hello 70°C at idle, goodbye battery life.

    I suspect that this problem continues while gaming, so that only 80% of them CPU "capacity" is available for the game, but there's still the 20+ W excess heat.

  • +1

    Worked out what was going on: I had disabled Thunderbolt in the BIOS.

    When I accidentally turned Thunderbolt back on by doing a factory reset of the BIOS, the SYSTEM process and CPU speed behaved and went back down to 800 MHz at idle, and temperatures dropped to 40°C.

    I cycled between Thunderbolt off and on half a dozen more times, and it was consistent: turning Thunderbolt off makes the laptop overheat.

    • 3 months… My laptop has been running on max for 3 fff months… I couldn't figure it out, and you just solved it. THANK YOU.

  • A bit late to the comment section. I'm thinking of buying this laptop but with the GTX 1660Ti. Does it have the same overheating issue as the RTX 2070

    • It will. The overheating issue comes from using the same heat pipes for the CPU and gpu. The CPU is the one that goes to 100 degrees with some load, so the gpu is not that much of an issue.
      If you are not keen on tuning it yourself, keep away from this. If you can do some tuning yourself, it is very good value for money. I changed the thermal paste and undervotes it, 45 degrees on idle and 65 on load. A beast.

      • +1

        Thanks for that. I used to build PCs myself from parts bought from Melbourne Swap Meets back in the old days. Hopefully I haven't forgotten all that. I've read the instructions in the OP and does not sound too difficult.

      • +1

        out of curiosity, how hot was it on load before you redid the thermal paste?
        mine is currently sitting on 70'ish degrees on load, and the fans start blasting off. Are your fans still pretty high when on load / 65 degrees?

        Thinking whether its worth repasting, and whether it will lessen the noise.

        • I think it depends on what you do with it, but with gaming, it has improved a lot. With ac odyssey it was reaching 100 degrees on peak, and now it doesn't go up from 83 on peak, fans on 80%, and sitting around 63 to 75. If not gaming, and just light GPU use (CAD and architectural visualization stuff) it won´t go beyond 65. Never pressed the G button after the repaste and undervolt with afterburner.

          It is a hustle to redo the thermal paste, but worth it.

  • +2

    1.10 retains undervolt etc etc

  • I just bought this bracket and heatsink from Amazon US. Seems expensive but hope that it works and I can now add a 2nd M.2 SSD

    Deal4GO M.2 SSD Hard Drive Metal Mounting Bracket Cover for Dell Inspiron 5401 5405 5408 5501 5505 5508 Vostro 5401 5402 5501 5502 7500 PXNWV https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B08LT8R63T/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt…

    Deal4GO 2nd Second 2280 M.2 SSD Heatsink Hard Drive Cover Heat Shield for Dell G7 15 Gaming Laptop 7500 7700 0KKCTR KKCTR https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B08PVGX371/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt…

    • You can buy them much cheaper direct from Dell, the part numbers are in this thread.

      • That's if there is a person at Dell to chat to.

        Do they sell the heatsink bracket too?

        • Yep I got both from them. I think it was about $20 all up.

          • @schmuppet: Cheers. Did it come with the 2 screws?

            • @lomie: No I got them off ebay, there's a link in this thread to the repair manual which shows the size you need.

              • @schmuppet: I've cancelled my Amazon order as Dell has responded with a price of $21.96 delivered for both brackets.

                • +1

                  @lomie: Fantastic, glad to hear it worked out.

                  • @schmuppet: I have just purchased a G7 are there still issues or should mine be alright as i have purchased direct from dell i imagine they have patched this for the current models ? could you please let me know i dont want to have to return it when it gets here thanks

                    • +1

                      @CryptoKing: Mine is from the initial batch so I can't comment on the current versions. That said it is working reasonably well now after the bios updates and with an undervolt. If I was buying now I'd get something else though.

                      • @schmuppet: alright thanks i picked it up on sale it has better specs than anything in the price range i bought so hopefully it works fine i can always return it if there is a major issue but if i just need to change some settings thats fine for me. What would you buy now around the same price range ?

                • @lomie: I tried to order one through live chat for two days now but I always get the message "there are no agents avaialble at the moment" and there is a number for the queue. Did you wait for one to be available?

                  • @gustus: I got the same thing. Then went through the business side and got through to an agent. I have email if you want to the direct person who generated the quote/invoice.

                    • @lomie: Quote from dell
                      PAD,THRM INTFC CLNG,SINGLE 1 5.60 5.60
                      PLT,BRKT,SSD,PCIE,HELA 1 13.86 13.86
                      SCR,M2X3.5,WIFI/SSD/DDPE,DF 1 0.50 0.50

                      Subtotal 19.96
                      GST: 10% (19.96) 2.00
                      Total AUD 21.96

                    • @lomie: Thank you. The agent asked me to send the order to the upgrade email that you provided to me. Have not get a response yet. So here's hoping.

                      • @gustus: They replied within a day. You shouldn't have any issues.

                      • @gustus: So the parts list above is actually missing the SSD mounting bracket PXNWV. Have contacted Dell to sort it out.

                        They have sent me the screw, the heatsink plate which covers the SSD and a sachet of Chemtronics Chempad presaturated wipes (basically IPA wipes).

  • I've gotten a notification saying I can update to windows 11 now. Has anyone had any issues (with drivers or anything) upgrading to windows 11?

    • +1

      Been on windows 11 for a couple of weeks now, no issues.

    • +1

      You can always rollback to Windows 10 if Windows 11 does not play well with your apps and drivers. Note that you only have about 10 days during which a rollback is permitted.

    • Do not upgrade to Windows 11. The battery life has dropped from 10 hours I was getting to 3-4 hours at most.

      • even disabling the RTX, over 100 undervolt and best cpu setup for power saving I'm not getting close to 10hrs, whats your setup

        • Haven't disabled RTX. -95.7 mV undervolt and that's pretty much it. I find that lowering the brightness dramatically increases your battery life. And don't forget to disable background apps that don't need to be running.

  • also the latest alienware CC update has fixed it not working for everyone.

  • Anyone updated to the 1.11.1 bios?

    • +1

      Working fine for me, appears to just be another security update

    • +1

      yeah have been since release, keeps UV

  • +1

    Bios 1.12.0 keeps undervolt

  • Has anyone upgraded from one of these to a 30-series gaming laptop? What did you buy and have you noticed any significant benefit?

    • +2

      Got the acer with the 3060 and i5 for 1200, but I much prefer the screen of this one. Also, no noticeable improvement when gaming and the 3060 runs hot, around 7 to 10 degrees more than this laptop.
      If thinking about upgrading, wait until the 40 series.

      • Yeah that's what I'm gonna wait for hopefully a 4070/80 and Zen 3 Ryzen somewhere

        • I've ordered the Omen 17 that was on here a few days ago, should arrive tomorrow. Got 14 days to return it if I don't think it's a big enough step up.

  • +1

    Bios 1.14.1 keeps undervolt

  • Hey guys I realise people probably don't come here very often anymore but I can't get a possible solution to my own mistake anywhere else so here goes.

    I was having issues with Alienware Command Centre (what's new) and did a full uninstall using Revo uninstaller including all associated files, I then installed the alienfx tools exe which is on github but I couldn't really work out how to use that properly so uninstalled that and then managed to reinstall ACC. Problem is that somewhere in those uninstalls I think I have managed to not only delete the programs but the actual files for the lights themselves since now with either tools it says no AlienFX devices found/no lights detected and the FX tab doesn't even show up on ACC.

    I'm a huge dumb arse and don't have a system restore point/backup. Is there anything I can do to reinstall the software for the lights themselves?

  • I thought I'd use Dell's tool to do some driver/firmware updates tonight, my thunderbolt port is completely dead now, anyone else had this problem?

    • I think that's actually controlled by the Nvidia driver, is it up to date?

      • I did install new video drivers at the same time, ended up rolling back to Dell suggested ones though and still same issue. Will try wiping them all out and doing a clean install straight from Nvidia, thanks!

  • +3

    For those still around, a couple of comments on some upgrades I did over Christmas on this G7:
    * Put in 64 GB ram (replacing 32 GB) as I had some nearby, and works fine. Crucial System Scanner confirmed as compatible in their testing. (2×32 GB modules) - overkill, but I wanted to test.
    * Took the plunge and replaced the thermal paste. Made quite a difference in temps (CPU and GPU) and fans speeds, wish I had done it earlier. Was relatively easy and straight-forward, followed this video. In all, probably took less than 30 min. This is an image of the original Dell paste application. I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut but obviously anything equivalent could be used.

    I am overall happy with this laptop since purchasing on day 1. It runs a number of significant data processing tasks as required. Don't use it heavily for gaming, but when I do, it runs well. I have not had to use any of the undervolting options etc at this stage.

    Hope this information helps anyone still interested.

    • I'm still around and still using my G7, it's a fantastic laptop, unfortunately, at the time of writing this comment, Dell no longer offers 17" on the G series anymore, you'll have to go with Alienware for that.
      Thanks for sharing the post, and I may replace the thermal paste when I get a chance.
      BTW, what temp was it before repasting?

      • I can't remember exactly, but it currently runs at 50c according to CPU Temp. Before it would have been about 20c higher from memory, and go to 90c rapidly in gaming. This is all using the quiet fan profile. Like mentioned, I mostly notice the temp difference by the fans not spinning up to max nearly as often as before.

        Replacing the thermal paste was a lot easier than I thought it would be, having already been inside the laptop a few times. You will be surprised, just follow the video.

        • Excellent, will definitely give it a go, once the Grizzly Thermal paste arrives.

        • +1

          Finally got around to repasting using the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, it's pretty easy to do and takes about 25mins.
          It lowered my CPU temperature and GPU by 7C.

  • +2

    Update July 2023: Anyone trying to perform the Undervolting CPU hack above with the bios from early 2023, don't waste your time, it will no longer work.
    Intel and OEMs like Dell have prevented you from doing this, once you update to the latest BIOS, you cannot downgrade an earlier BIOS that works with Undervolt.

  • Just did this, This method still works April 2024 on the 1.30 bios. My values on my 7700 were also 0xDA and 0x3A. Have a -100mv offset and temps have dropped from 95-100 degrees down to 70-80 degrees. Super happy with the result thank you for this thread.

    • Hey @Crazydave84 , I saw @kml22 's comment mentioning that undervolting the CPU isn't possible with the recent BIOS version. If you've managed to do it, could you let me know how? I'd like to try it too. Thanks!

    • +1

      I'm not sure how you managed to do it, I gave up in the end, but the laptop still going strong, you can no longer get the G7 series, you'll have to step up to the expensive Alienware model to get the larger 17".

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