[AMA] Chemist, Working in The Personal Care/Pharma Industry (Skin & Sun)

Hi OzBargain!

I have been working for many years as a chemist in the personal care / pharma field. I won't be able to discuss specific brands, companies or anybody's medical conditions. General discussions are welcome.

Happy to answer any questions regarding skin care, sun care or other topical applied products.

Comments

  • Thanks! What sort of education/training does one need to get into this field? For the field in general, or for your type of role, if you're happy to disclose.

    • +1

      Generally you can get into the field by from a basic Science degree. However I do find that most employers are seeking, those with:
      -Chemical Engineering degree
      -Pharmaceutical Science degree
      -Biochemistry degree (specific roles)

      Of course it goes without saying that work experience is the most valuable aspect. Masters and PhD requirements are very niche and are generally not required unless for very specific roles or very senior roles.

      • +2

        It puts the lotion on it's skin………..? :P

        • Haha. I also mean how the lotion is made on top of how you put it on the skin ^__^"

  • What cool chemicals can you mix using ordinary household chemicals?

    • Using household chemicals? Not much as I'm not specialised in that field (organic chemist). To be honest some of the ingredients I use everyday is closer to what you will find in the kitchen.

  • Is there any validity for the existence of skin products marketed for babies?

    • For some products, yes. Keep in mind that although there is a need for some baby specific products, you are not allowed to do any testing on babies (makes sense). Therefore most of not all baby marketed products are designed based on best knowledge of what is and is not suitable for babies. Some of course are designed better than others.

  • Is it true that most skin care creams are essentially the same?

    • In principle yes. Although what sets them apart is how the product feel on the skin. Some are more functional than others. In the end a moisturising cream…. Is the same as any other moisturising cream.

  • Do you test products on Duckies?

    • Fortunately not…. They are done more commonly on rabbits and pigs. Although this is no longer common practice. Exceptional circumstances will still apply where animal testing is unavoidable (i.e., new anti cancer drug)

      • Does your company test on animals? (Or outsource it - same thing).

        If so, how do you reconcile:

        1. Nonhumans are similar enough to us to make testing on them worth the effort, and,

        2. If they are similar enough to us then how do you ethically justify doing things to them that you would not do to us? Particularly for nonessential products?

        • Yes, we test products on humans (considered as animals right ^__^")? I do get where you are asking and no, we do not test on any rabbits, pigs, mice, rats or guinea pigs.

          Certain animals have certain characteristics that have been shown to be close or somewhat representative in expected response to humans. Some example of this, includes, irritation /immune response from testing on rabbits and chemical reactivity to skin by testing on pigs.

          Unfortunately until science advances further, animal models are required in certain critical applications. Generally when a chemical is introduced, it is difficult for the assessors to determine if it is a "essential" or "non-essential" product, as the end application can be numerous.

          One good news is that animal testing on FINISHED PRODUCTS are on the way out/eliminated. Irritation testing is now conducted (at much higher costs) on consenting humans.

  • Are there a re a lot of jobs in the industry generally (I.e. Pre vivid) and now (post covid)

    • I think your dog gave you distemper.

    • Good number of jobs, some better than others. COVID has had no impact as most manufacturers are busy pumping out sanitizers.

  • what's the best cheap moisturiser with sunscreen built in that's suitable for face/exposed neck/arms? I like the nutrogenia one in the 50mL tube but it cost too much, i feel like I should be able to by a 1L thing of it for $30 somewhere. you can get sunscreen that cheap, you can get moisturiser that cheap, so why not a good sunscreen moisturiser. I'm a man btw, but I have soft pale skin.

    • Sunscreens in Australia are classified as therapeutic goods. Therefore there are higher costs associated in designing, production, safety compliance and quality compared to some non therapeutic products (i.e., basic moisturising creams). You definitely can get mosisturising sunscreen 1L for under $30… Just have to sacrifice the feel and use a body sunscreen.as an example, Coles, Woolies and ALDI all have 1L body sunscreen for under $30. They are water resistant do it may feel heavier on the skin compared to a face specific product by Neutrogena.

      • is it okay to wear regular sunscreen as a moisturiser, would people be able to tell or smell just by standing near you?

        • It's fine to wear it as a regular moisturiser, however there is generally a smell associated, may stain light coloured clothes and in most cases heavier in feel

          • @Duckie2hh: So what would you buy for yourself if you were on a fixed pension or something, how cheap would you go and where would you buy.

            • @AustriaBargain: Well let me just say this. All sunscreens in Australia must pass minimum safety and SPF standard. Therefore efficacy wise, there is no difference between a $11/L sunscreen from a supermarket store vs $100/L from a high end brand. The difference in price comes from the trust of the brand, as well as any ancillary benefits (lighter feel, anti-aging actives, other cosmoceutical based actives).

              To answer your question, I would pick a cost effective sunscreen that I can accept the feel of, from a larger company brand (i.e., multi national companies or supermarket) over a niche type brand. Reason for this is that more often than not, larger companies have larger resources therefore larger buying power (reduced cost to consumer) and more quality control steps.

              Disclosure: I am not down playing the importance of niche product brands. They are important in pushing innovation in the market place and giving consumers more choices.

  • +2

    Don't have a question myself just wanted to say thanks for starting an AMA and actually coming back to post answers!

    • No problem at all. Hope you have a nice Friday!

  • What is your favourite pizza topping?

    • +2

      Love anchovies and mushrooms.

      • +2

        I'm sorry to hear that.

        • That's okay. I forgive you :)

  • red pill or blue pill?

  • for someone who had eczema and sensitive skin, I have been advised to stay away from conventional soaps ands and moisturisers with addtives such as fragrances. What makes a particualr moisturing/facial wash product classified as "GENTLE" or "for SENSITIVE SKIN". What are some ingredients to watch out for on the packaging? thanks for the AMA!

    • +1

      When they recommend "soaps" what most people mean is traditional alkaline based/reacted products which produces surfactant like properties but with a very high pH. This type of reaction is commonly found in soap bars and some 'cream' based cleansers that appear super pearlescent and /or foamy upon dispensing (i.e., shaving cream). The high pH in these products are generally very irritating to consumers who have damaged, sensitive or broken skin (such as Eczema sufferers). Things to watch out on the packaging to indicate a soap based reaction include (not exclusively), potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide in combination with oils (i.e., coconut oil). When in doubt, pick products that claim to be neutral or acidic in pH.

      Fragrances usually contain a range of chemicals which can irritate skin and /or contain allergens that people can be allergic to. Therefore the quickest way to reduce the likelihood of flare ups, is to use a non-fragranced product.

      I hope this helps.

  • From a protection point of view, are physical sunscreens containing titanium/zinc oxides better than chemical sunscreens?

    • From an efficacy point of view, physical based actives are generally less effective, meaning that formulators have to put a lot more in there, compared to chemical filters. Ultimately, the product claiming a certain SPF must meet that level, irrespective if it is physical or chemical filters.

      Most consumers pick one or the other based on their preferences and/or feel.

  • What do you think about pete evans and his claim about sunscreens?

    • +1

      …ahem… unfortunately I cannot make any defamatory comments about such a person who I know nothing about.

      His comments regarding chemicals in sunscreen being dangerous does have an ounce of truth. To re-iterate, any chemicals is dangerous, the question is the dosage. Did you know that distilled water will kill you if ingested at high enough quantities?

      In the end, the Therapeutics Goods Administration does a good job of screening chemicals for safety and producing a list of allowable chemicals to be used in therapeutic product. I would advocate to use sunscreen or stay out of direct sunlight for extended periods of time, as skin cancer is a very real risk and danger in Australia.

      • hahaha.
        Yes even Oxygen is toxic to human above certain %.
        and arsenic occurs naturally in food.

      • OK, the sun can be dangerous, we know that.

        But how dangerous are sunscreens? Carcinogenic? Other dangers?

        • Ingredients used in sunscreens have been commonly used worldwide for many years. The safety data for these ingredients are also very well known. They are by no means carcinogens.

          It is safer to use sunscreens than go into the sun without it.

          • @Duckie2hh: I think you misunderstood my question. I understand that sunscreen > sun.

            But there are other options, such as wear long sleeve shirts or even just stay in the shade out of the sun. So if sunscreen poses any dangers at all it would be good to know about it so that I (as a parent) can make a better informed decision.

            Thanks for the AMA!

  • How was the process of scouting for a job? I heard pharmaceutical labs are notoriously difficult to find careers in if you don't have any sort of connections.

    • If you are going from a graduate to a big multi national job, then probably yes. I climbed my way through the ranks in a smaller company before stepping into a higher position role at a larger company.

      I wouldn't say that pharma jobs are difficult, there are just a lot of competition. Many scientists from overseas do apply for local pharma jobs here due to Australia's high wages and good lifestyle.

  • Thanks, OP for doing the AMA. I have some body lotions and hand creams that are 4-5 years old. Are they still safe to use on the skin? They seem fine, but for some, the fragrance has gone away. Will the chemicals have undergone changes, and will they be harmful when absorbed by the skin?

    • +1

      No problem. If the emulsion hasn't broken apart, the next risk is micro. Generally these creams are preserved by chemicals preservatives that degrade over time and or get consumed as they kill microbes. Once they fall below a certain level, they will be unable to protect the product from microbial growth. This can make you sick, especially if you apply it over broken skin.

      My advise is to toss it, unless it's an unopened bottle.

      • Thanks for the advice. I also have quite a few that are brand new and unopened. From what you say, I take it that these would generally-speaking, be OK to use? It just seems such a waste to throw them out, is all.

        • +1

          I guess it's up to you to assess the risk. If it was any type of medicine, I wouldn't.

        • +1

          Use on body but not face I'd say. Or even feet.

          • @anastasiastarz: Oh yes, of course. They are body lotions and hand creams, so I wouldn't use them on the face anyway. Thanks.

      • By 'the emulsion' does that mean if it separates like yoghurt?

  • Which ingredients in skincare (mainly facial) that actually make a difference? In pigment, redness, acne scars and all that jazz? What's your thoughts on a certain very popular brand that uses long sciency words with plain packaging?

    How can you tell if a cream/serum actually works or just feels/smells nice?

    Also what do you recommend for crazy peeling skin around nail beds due to increase hand washing and detol use?

    • Unfortunately there are no real way for a consumer to tell before hand if a product will actually work. It comes down to whether each consumer think the product is working for him or her.

      All I can say is that in majority of the cases, cost of a product does not always equate to the functionality of the product.

      Just moisturize constantly and consistently to get rid of peeling dry skin.

  • Merged from [AMA] Chemist, Working in The Personal Care/Pharma Industry (Skin & Sun & Sanitizers)

    Hi OzBargain!

    I have been working for many years as a chemist in the personal care / pharma field. I won't be able to discuss specific brands, companies or anybody's medical conditions. General discussions are welcome.

    Happy to answer any questions regarding skin care, sun care or other topical applied products. Happy to also answer any hand sanitiser questions.

    Stay safe and have a happy Friday.

    • What perks do you get from major companies to attend their seminars or use their products?

      • If you are talking about raw materials, it's mainly dinners and stationary.

    • What affect does drinking from your own supply of hand sanitiser have when it comes to memory loss?

      • Depends on what your "hand sanitizer" is made from…. Assuming it is ethanol based, you will probably pass out before you finish the bottle.

    • Do you know what the profit margin is for prescription drugs in general? For example what's difference between a the cost price and selling price of a box of Cefalexin or Augmentin Duo Forte?

      • +1

        The more niche the drug is, the higher the profit margin. This is due to:
        - To cover R&D cost of the company
        - Raw materials to produce the niche drugs are generally more expensive due to smaller volumes being produced around the world (economy of scale)
        - Less competition, therefore the company is free to charge the maximum that the customer is willing to pay for and/or can afford to pay for.

        The opposite is also true for generic medications (i.e., paracetamol tablets).

        • +1

          once the drug comes off patent then it would be open season for the originator could very well be supplying their drugs to a generics company for repack and sale.

          It is the same drug yet the brand label attracts a premium. I say this having worked for a company that is an originator and that also has a generics arm.

    • I want to start getting into skincare, where would be the best place for a beginner like me to start ?

      • Do you mean using skin care or producing/manufacturing skin care or starting a skin care brand?

        • using skincare/skincare routines

          • @t2kb123: I would recommend getting an understanding of your skin type. Then speak to staff in store to get recommendation of products to suit your skin type and conduct some tests to see what products suit your skin. Don't get bogged down with fancy product claims at the very start.

    • For the massive industry that is 'Women's skin care' could you comment on how much of it is BS and how much of it is real? For example "anti-wrinkle" or "anti-aging" creams that seem to be advertised a lot during The Bachelor shows…. I always think to myself this stuff has to be mostly bulldust and pure marketing genius.

      As a bloke who hasn't tried any of these products but seen my wife apply them….I feel like some products like 'moisturiser' seem fairly legitimate in my uneducated brain. But ones that claim to eliminate wrinkles or do other fancy stuff simply cannot be 100% true. Are anti aging products just cleverly marketed moisturisers or am I way off the mark….? Can you offer any insight here?

      Put simply, do these anti aging creams really have special sauce to perform this miracle or is it just marketing?

      • Well there are a lot of companies that play in the beauty space. Due to the competition, every brand tries to get the best marking claims to 'one-up' their competitors. There are a lot of 'marketing jargon' in the advertisements of beauty products. Yes, sometimes these claims can begin to push a product's perceived usefulness beyond their actual effects.

        There are ingredients that can reduce the appearance of wrinkles, with tested and proven result. The keyword here is "appearance of wrinkles".

        As a consumer, you need to balance out the cost of the product Vs the product functionality, claims, brand reputation and the 'feel' of the product.

    • Generic vs Branded medication? Pros & Cons?

      • All generic medication requires substantiation data to show that bio availability is equivalent. It is really up to the consumer as theoretically, the generic medication should work as well as the branded.

        Personally, I weigh up the cost difference and if it is not substantial, I lean towards the branded product.

  • Do I really have to throw away the sunscreen after 12 months from opening? (Thanks for answering in advance!)

    • Depends on how you use the product. It is recommended, to prevent microbial contamination.

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