The Search for The Most OzBargain Car

Hello OzBargainers! I am on a search for the most OzBargain Car: the car with the cheapest total annual cost whilst considering VALUE for MONEY. So no, I'm not after a 2000 Toyota Corolla that has done 270000 km's and is worth $1500 today and will probably be worth $500 in 10 years time.

What I mean is: I don't mind the the cost of the initial outlay as long as the car can retain its value over the years. Of course, the lower the initial capital expense, the better, due to the opportunity cost of it sitting in a High Interest Savings Account or other financial assets. But that is besides the point.

With that being said, the following are my requirements:

  1. Must: Hatch form factor, automatic, something with four wheels and won't kill me, 0-100km in <10s
  2. Really Like: Climate control, reverse sensors, HID's, fuel efficient for expected 5000-10000km of city driving
  3. Like: Bluetooth audio, keyless entry, exciting safety features (lane keep assist, collision detection, blind spot detection, etc.)

A car's cost (for most of us) is comprised of the following factors:

  1. Depreciation
  2. Maintenance/Repairs
  3. Registration and CTP
  4. Fuel Economy
  5. Insurance Costs

To further analyse this, the following is my thoughts on each factor. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

  1. Depreciation
    a) New cars obviously depreciate more, so I will be looking to buy used
    i) From my research, significant depreciation occurs in the first 1-3 years of ownership
    b) I have also looked into appreciating cars (yes, high yield investment vehicles do exist!!) but this requires very specialised knowledge and most of these rare cars are not only hard to find but typically cost much more to maintain so it doesn't make financial sense. Furthermore, we are on the search for an OzBargain car, as the Swiss say: Unus pro omnibus, omnes pro uno (one for all and all for one).
  2. Maintenance/Repairs
    a) Looking to avoid European as mostly** Japanese/Korean cars require less maintenance and parts/servicing are less expensive on average
  3. Registration and CTP
    a) I am based in NSW, so the registration cost is based on the weight of the vehicle - aiming for a tare weight of 1155-1504 kg to have a registration fee of $310 (2020)
    Ref: https://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/roads/registration/fees/registrat…
  4. Fuel Economy
    a) Potentially looking to buy a hybrid here to reduce this cost. Further analysis below.
  5. Insurance Costs
    a) Will be looking to purchase comprehensive insurance - the cost of insurance here appears to vary wildly between makes, models and years

Estimated Annual Budget

  1. Depreciation - $1000-1700/year
    a) Depreciating cost calculated between buy price and estimated final sale price (this will be estimated using Redbook on similar older models with some leniency)
    b) Happy for it to be on the higher end if the car ticks more requirements above or has other driver experience enhancing features
  2. Maintenance/Repairs - $200-500/year
    a) Will be completing basic maintenance myself, cost here covers things like oil changes, tyres, batteries which generally have a span of 3-4 years, and various other components such as brake pads/discs, etc.
  3. Registration - $310/year
    a) Targeting for tare weight 1155-1504kg
    b) Which car has the cheapest CTP? Any information here would be much appreciated
  4. Fuel Economy - ~10L/100km Petrol or ~5L/100km Hybrid
    a) Between a hybrid and a petrol car I would like to save approximately 5L/100km, if I'm completing about 7500km of driving at lets say $1.10/L, that would be $412.50/year of fuel economy savings
    i) The risk I take with an older hybrid vehicle is the battery will die on me which is approximately $2-3K from my research. Is it worth the risk?
  5. Insurance Costs - <$1000/year Comprehensive Insurance
    i) Not sure which vehicle makes/models are cheaper to insure than others?

My current vehicle today is a 2009 Toyota Camry which I bought 3 years ago for $9000. Today (in normal times) it could probably sell for about $6000. All maintenance and repairs so far were basic and I completed it myself. Whilst it does meet everything in my financial budget (except fuel economy), the car is rather lacking when it comes to driver experience.

I am using Redbook as a general guide and I am assuming I will find something on the lower end of the private price guide (or potentially less) for that vehicle.

My current search has me looking at the following cars so far:

  1. 2016-2017 Mazda 3 SP25/GT/Astina BN Series
  2. 2012-2013 Lexus CT200h

Any help adding to the shortlist of cars, feedback, or funny Ozbargain jokes would be appreciated.

Comments

  • +24

    OzThesis?

  • +7

    car can retain its value over the years

    FJ Cruisers have retained their value very very well since being discontinued due to popularity for off-road capability, moddability and the reliable 4L V6 engine. 2016 used ones are still at RRP and really clean ones are even more expensive than when they were new. Just saying. Definitely doesn't meet your other criterias but you asked!

  • +17

    2000 Toyota Corolla

    • +3

      Only if it's done 270000kms so it won't depreciate any more.

      • Oh, in that case, then: 2009 Toyota Camry

        • I was unironically going to suggest a toyota aurion until i started to read op's novella.

  • +7

    Jesus…

    1 main reason a car drops in value initially is due to stamp duty being included on the new car purchase.

    A new, or 1yo car will have fk all to maintain - no tyres/brakes due for a while, capped price servicing, lower insurance costs generally for new/newer cars, especially hybrid models.

    At the end of the day, you could put all the figures in and find the car that stacks up perfectly, yet it could be uncomfortable as shit for you, drive like crap or be an ugly car you don't want to own.

    Sometimes it's not all about stats and figures, it's about how much you actually enjoy the car. But that's different with everyone.

    If you wouldn't buy a car without seeing it, then stop calculating the numbers of ownership and use both your head and your heart equally to make the purchase decision.

    • If you wouldn't buy a car without seeing it, then stop calculating the numbers of ownership and use both your head and your heart equally to make the purchase decision.

      I feel like this is pretty reasonable and sound advice.

      If (OP) you really are willing to just buy it because it fits all the "stats" you're after, then great. But as you (OP) yourself have pointed out, "the driver experience is lacking", so this will obviously narrow down your options more and will, most importantly, cost more.

      However, I'm no car expert by any means, and I have no more meaningful input, except to say, I have a feeling that you might need to tone down your expectations and be a little bit more realistic. i.e. if you're after "driver experience", you'll have to pay for it.

      But - I'll give you props for your analysis/breakdown thus far. It's pretty impressive and thorough!

    • Jesus walked everywhere vs drove a car. Couldn't find a truck big enough for the cross.

      Also agree get a car that ticks some boxes but is also nice to drive, look at and most important can fit stuff in it!

      As friends too. Buying off a friend = you can both save money

  • +2

    My guess is you’ll need to do your own research and find your own answer. Your criteria are VERY specific, especially the driver experience bit.

    ‘Driver experience’ will add cost to the vehicle, it’s just the way it is. It’s kinda like: cheap, reliable, fast - pick any two.

  • +2

    Classic Porsche 911. Will appreciate rather than depreciate. Make money while driving to work.

    • +4

      Yes. I put some money in a Managed Fund six years ago when what I really wanted to do with it was buy an 80's whale tail 911. Look at me now :(

      • +2

        1977 porsche 930 in 2009 = $75k
        1977 porsche 930 in 2020 = $200k

        • 993 prices are making me cry a little inside actually.

          • @Shiq1: Last of the air cooled. Tempted to get into the 996 that no one wants but hopefully one day will.

            • @MS Paint: The 996 is like the crazy weird sister that people are gradually becoming to realise is not bad. The fatal flaw (RE: IMS) only affects like 2-4% of cars

              Its a great time to buy it now. Prices are slowly creeping back up as 997 stock has kind of flatlined in depreciation (with some even appreciating)

              Me personally, hoping the govt realises that there isn't a car manufacturing industry anymore and allows for personal imports post 1989

  • Gee once you find that car that meets your criteria. Post it here. Whooh.

  • +6

    Falcon on gas. Wait. Sorry, I thought I was on Whirlpool.

  • a) I am based in NSW, so the registration cost is based on the weight of the vehicle - aiming for a tare weight of 1155-1504 kg to have a registration fee of $310 (2020)

    It's not $310. You're looking more at $380 because you didn't factor in the registration fee which is currently $67 and expected to be more after July (probably either $69 or $70).

    Unless you racked up enough tolls to get half-price or free rego …

    Plus a used car would have rego already, hopefully newly renewed.

    Source: Own a car with a weight that falls in that bracket and also live in NSW

    Insurance Costs - <$1000/year Comprehensive Insurance

    Are you at an age where comprehensive insurance will be under that bracket? Are you going to include the hire car option and any other extras?

    • Further to the comprehensive insurance thing, where you live is also a factor.

  • Yes

  • +3

    Where's the TL-DR version?

    • +16

      Op wants someone else to work out the car with lowest overall ownership cost, as they are not only as tight as a fishes a hole, but also incredibly lazy.

      • +2

        I could only bother with the first paragraph - what an entitled b-head

      • +8

        I hear OP is looking for a pregnant woman to marry, that way he doesn't have to work at getting her into that condition.

  • +2

    I'm fairly sure a DMC DeLorean will fit the bill.
    You will need the "Back to the Future" extras pack
    so you can time travel to pick-up the extras you want and
    satisfy the rigid depreciation schedules.

    Speak with Doc or Marty…

  • +3

    "the search" someone else does for you

  • Corolla/Camry/Rav 4 Hybrid.

    /thread

    • OP knows resistance is futile! They will be Toyotarised!

  • a) Between a hybrid and a petrol car I would like to save approximately 5L/100km, if I'm completing about 7500km of driving at lets say $1.10/L, that would be $412.50/year of fuel economy savings

    I drive around 10k kms/year and was contemplating a hybrid, but in the end it worked out to be 10+ years of fuel savings to cover the extra cost. While it's better for the environment, given your low kms/year, would it make financial sense to go for a hybrid?

    • And a waste of time if you live outside a major city. Hybrids rely on recovering energy from braking. On the open highway, you're just driving something with an undersized petrol engine. That's where diesels are king.

      • undersized

        Not really. If you put your boot into it, you get the combined power (ie overtaking). If you're cruising along, you'll be at low revs so you'll have the most economical option.

        It's the reason why hybrid urban/extra urban figures hardly differ from the combined.

        Diesel costs more to service/maintain, more at the pump (90% of the time), and worse on the environment. And depending on the type of car, turbo lag is a bitch.

  • as the Swiss say: Unus pro omnibus, omnes pro uno (one for all and all for one).

    They also say Swiss Finder's Fee, which I want up front.

  • Depreciation up to $1.7k per year. Keep it for 10 years and buy a $17k Corolla. Sorted!

  • Tldr; OP needs a Japanese hatch.

  • Toyota GR Yaris turbo, due this year (180kw AWD).

  • 2017 Benz C43 AMG

    • +1

      Sure it's a 2017? What does the "build plate" say?

      • Says "you won a free car or small fries"

  • +1

    My current vehicle today is a 2009 Toyota Camry which I bought 3 years ago for $9000. Today (in normal times) it could probably sell for about $6000. All maintenance and repairs so far were basic and I completed it myself. Whilst it does meet everything in my financial budget (except fuel economy), the car is rather lacking when it comes to driver experience.

    Have you tried hanging some fluffy dice, from the review mirror, to improve the driving experience?

  • +1

    Okay, first thing first, going from a camry hybrid to a CT200h you will be massively underwhelmed. sure it has the badge and nice features and more comfy than the camry (just the seats) but when it comes to power/speed/ride comfort your camry will win (which is saying something about how bad the CT200h really is). Keep in mind CT200h is really just a $40k car which is inflated upto $65k.
    If you really want something more fun and still reasonable try looking at GS450h, as a hybrid that's fast, quiet and feature rich. You will be looking at first gen for under $20k (2006-2011).
    If you can spend more then the newer models are nicer and have had bulk of their depreciation done, you can pick a clean facelift for around 40k. Make sure you get Sports Luxury to avoid feeling missed out on features.

    OR the other option is stick to the Camry and go for an ES, you can either pickup older 2003-2005 for under $10k and spend the rest on fuel OR go for newer hybrid (which will suffer from the same lack of character as your camry but it is a lot more comfy). ES300h can be had for sub $30k. Or go the V6 route and get the ES350 which can be had around $20k. Again look for sports luxury to make sure you don't miss out on little things.

    As for other cars, the only other hybrid which you could consider in this price range would be the LS600h but they can have costly repairs (air suspensions, battery etc…) and you will be using more fuel but it is more powerful (V8 hybrid with 4cyl economy). And it will probably be the nicest car you will drive.

    And yes I missed the point on the hatch, as GS/ES/LS are all sedans.

    If you have to get a hatch? wait for the Yaris GR.

  • Well done Op in recognising costs of running a car in order of highest cost to lowest cost…

    A car's cost (for most of us) is comprised of the following factors:

    Depreciation
    Maintenance/Repairs
    Registration and CTP
    Fuel Economy
    Insurance Costs
    

    In general European cars have the highest servicing, repair and insurance costs and hence the highest depreciation factor… a double whammy!
    So write them off the list.

    Hondas and Subarus also have relatively high servicing, repair and insurance costs but dont suffer from fast depreciation.

    The winner is most likely a Holden, Mitsubishi, Ford or a Toyota which all have the lowest servicing, repair and insurance costs with average to relatively low (Toyota) depreciation whilst being the most affordable to buy.

  • +8

    I find these sorts of analyses are more helpful in identifying what you DON'T want. I spent a wet weekend once spreadsheeting all these different cars, trying to decide what I wanted to buy next. Listed all the things I was looking for in a car, three of which were non negotiables, and researched via carsales.com.au to see what came with what. At the end of it all I had one vehicle that ticked all of the boxes - a Nissan Qashqai. So I threw out my spreadsheet and bought a WRX.

    • Halarious
      Usually the best way to approach this is to shortlist 3 or 4 cars and then go out and find the best deal on the day.
      End of year sales for cars are going to be fantastic deals this year.
      Get ready everyone!

      • Depends on the brand/model. Brands will wanna clear out the lower selling stock ie the least popular. So you'll get a bargain, but it won't be the best in class

  • +2

    Have you considered a 2017 Ford Mustang 5.0 in manual that has never been revved over 4,000rpm? Ask any Mustang owner they they will tell you that it's worth more now than when they bought it…

    • -2

      hmm, why?

      • gee thanks for the neg, whoever that was. legit question (as not a petrol head :D )

        • +1

          It's a reference to a certain well-known member of this board, not a serious recommendation.

  • If I was that much of a penny-pincher, I would get a suzuki swift.

Login or Join to leave a comment