42-210Nm
Includes extention, socket adaptor and case.
Non ignition member price $51.99
Mechpro 1/2" Torque Wrench $29 (with Free Ignition Membership) @ Repco
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Great price. I got my 3/8 at $47.5. But 1/2 would be an overkill for me.
Looks similar to ALDI wrench ($29.99) minus the sockets (https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/485146)
No deal for me
The Aldi deal was posted 6 months ago and was a limited offer.
If there's a comparable torque wrench for less AND available, please post it.
Nice one, the Craftright also has a greater torque range (Craftright 30-210Nm vs Mechpro 42-210Nm)
Bought one a few weeks ago as I couldn't find the Aldi ones leftover. Seems to be a decent bit of kit and handy for doing up the wheelnuts on the car to the right torque.
Sparkplugs are the critical component for torque wrneches, I reckon. These days with soft alloys heads. Strip a spark plug and you will definitely experience hurt feelings when you see the cost of fixing it
@King Tightarse: Not really. Spark plug just needs to sit right. I use one of those coiling one handed spark plug socket. It provides no leverage but that's what you want. If the thread is crossed, you can't turn. I use that and as long as the spark plug sits tight, it should be sweet.
Torque critical component is inside the engine/gearbox assembly. So a torque wrench is absolutely overkill for 95% of home repair/service mechanics
@Pandaroo: I know. My point was that a torque wrench is overkill for installing spark plug. As long as the spark plug sits well(not cross threaded), I'd stop as soon as I feel resistance, maybe 1/8 of a turn over, then it'll be alright
@Punknerd: Totally depends on the spark plug design.
If your vehicle uses collapsible washer plugs, 1/8 of a turn is nowhere near enough. Unless the plugs have been used before.
And I'd say 1/8 of a turn after seating would be bordering on too much for tapered seat plugs.
@Spic3y: Oh c'mon, in the context of DIY mechanic work on Ozbargain, I've taken the assumption that we are not working on a McLaren, the engines we work on don't have crazy tolerance to a 1/1000 of mil with every thread.
Put some loctite on the plug thread, if it feels tight enough it's sweet. If it feels tight, you would have already crushed the crushable washer. Don't put your elbow into it so you don't strip shit out of thread after it's done seating regardless of what kind of seat it is.
@Punknerd: Torque wrench is a good idea with spark plugs and alloy heads - really!
The old 'wait till it bites' and then 1/4 turn from iron head days is well past.
Modern alloy heads can be surprisingly soft. It's quite easy to damage the threads installing and overtightening plugs. You would find out the following plug change when lots of thread material comes away with the plug.
No longer a 'feel' thing. You really should torque them
Torque critical component is inside the engine/gearbox assembly. So a torque wrench is absolutely overkill for 95% of home repair/service mechanics
What about wheel nuts and lock nuts? If they're not tightened correctly, they fall off and hit someone or something and then you'll be in big trouble…. Lock nuts have different tension required again if your rims have them. Break them and oh boy, have fun trying to take them back out…. I guess you could just put it back and then drive off as if nothing happened….
@Zachary: Wheel nut and locknut can just be tightened by feel. Use a 1/2 inch ratcheting wrench, if it feels right enough, it's not gonna fall off. If you've broken the ratcheting mechanism, you have overdone it.
BTW, stripped lock nut is pretty easy to remove, weld it to a normal hex nut and it's no-problemo.Wheel nut and locknut can just be tightened by feel. Use a 1/2 inch ratcheting wrench, if it feels right enough, it's not gonna fall off. If you've broken the ratcheting mechanism, you have overdone it.
Everyone just rattles it on and off at full speed, even the lock nuts which you're supposed to tighten and or take off by hand so you don't damage the splines of the key….
stripped lock nut is pretty easy to remove, weld it to a normal hex nut and it's no-problemo.
That's assuming you have a welder and know how to weld…plus if you're out and about and know how to weld but no portable welder, how are you gonna get your flat tyre out and change with the spare if the lock nut is screwed up from a previous session?
@King Tightarse: you can use a smaller wrench which will have less of torque output and you can use it by feel
who the hell torques wheel nuts?!
@bensl: Certainly not the tyre places. Just rattle them on so the customer needs to come back and pay them to change a flat.
who the hell torques wheel nuts?!
Exactly.. Seen this come up soooo many times here..
The ONLY thing i've ever use a torque wrench on a car for was head bolts…
I concur with @Punknerd, way overkill unless ur building engines or similar…
@ymmf: I torque wheelnuts out of habit. Used to do it when my father was racing cars, and for track days. Still do it to this day.
It also means that every nut is done consistently. Even if my torque wrench is not 100% accurate, it's still torquing the nuts to the same spec.
But craftright is… craftright. Couldnt expect it to be too accurate after a while. Tho I've been looking for something smaller (15-50 ish range) which doesnt cost $200..
Craftright is just a badge slapped on already available products, they can range from cheap and nasty to pretty reasonable. This is at the pretty reasonable end of the scale.
I mean, a torque wrench is really a buy once and use forever item. Deflecting beam style ones very rarely need to be tested and are much easier to use.
I bought the craftright to do the lug nuts and works beautifully, only thing is it only comes with the 17 and 19mm sockets where my toyota needs the 21mm. It's also saved the day with a stuck sump plug too which wouldn't budge with either a wrench or impact driver
Using a precision tool as a breaker bar? That's a paddlin'
zombie apocalypse weapon of my choice
the 1/2 inch torque wrench from Bunnings and Repco look identical. I wonder if they are made in the same factory?
i bought mine from bunnings though
Is this a good quality tool that I could use on bikes?
Push bikes, not really.
Most bolts are 5-20 nm range on bikes.
Need a micro torque wrench I believeThe range is too high for most parts. I got the Aldi equivalent a some years ago and it hasn't seen much use.
The bottom bracket bearing torque is around 40Nm, but one side of an English bottom bracket is reverse threaded, which this type of wrench won't handle.
Also, even though I was being very careful, I think I broke a hub due to overtightening a cassette lock ring. (I only noticed the issues a few weeks after the event. Since then I just tighten them by feel.
showing $49.99 for me. What have I missed?
Probably reading the title =)
I gave up on these and bought a few digital torque wrenches.
Did they fail?
Just gave them away. I think it's easier to have an analogue to digital type tool.
This kind of cheap torques are very misleading, they are not reversible (torque setting is CW only, not anti-CW), yet there's a directional lever. Bear in mind that you aren't supposed to use it to loosen bolts/nuts, so is the use of anti-CW setting?
Anti clockwise thread. They are out there
I know, but I bet this torque wrench cannot do anti clockwise torque. It can ratchet anti clockwisely but it won't "click" at the preset torque.
The ones that can do both clockwise and anti clockwise (right and left hand threads) would specifically say "reversible" and they wouldn't be under $100.
Basically the directional lever on this torque wrench is there but you can't or aren't supposed to use it.
Yeah I understand what you are saying, but why would anyone want to use this to twist off their nuts?
Still available for $29 without ignition membership but bunnings one is still cheaper (got more Nm on it) for same price
So cheap :)