Castrol GTX 20W-50 is suitable for use in automotive gasoline and diesel engines where the manufacturer recommends an API SN/CF or earlier specification 20W-50 lubricant.
Limit of 2 per customer
Castrol GTX 20W-50 is suitable for use in automotive gasoline and diesel engines where the manufacturer recommends an API SN/CF or earlier specification 20W-50 lubricant.
Limit of 2 per customer
That's the largest service interval I've ever seen. :)
AU Falcon?
AU Trolling
Can this be used for frying?, can't find any 2L/5L canola in my local supermarket.
Perfect for frying onion piston rings
Only bats … Wuhan style.
and Pangolin
Anyone know if this oil is suitable for a Mazda 3?
Check your car manual, I'd hazard a guess and say it's way too thick.
It's more for older vehicles and some over 200,000km. I have such a car that can sip on 20W50 but in winter I prefer to run a thinner oil even in my car (winter = thicker oil on startup = less protection in those early crucial moments whereas thicker oil like this can be better in a car like mine for summer because heat thins oil more)
I'm buying 2 of these to put in my car around October time. Running 10W40 currently.
Thanks click.
No but maybe yes. Good answer from Click_It also. I used to use this in an old Elantra 04 model, if you check the specs the oil recommended is something like 5w 30 or 40, but the manual says that depending on the climate you could potentially use a range of oils. 20w-50 was on the list as long as the temperature doesn't drop below something like 3 degrees, which in many parts of Australia is unlikely. I've used it from about 160k to 220k and the car doesn't seem to mind.
Having said that, it is possible that for a VVTi engine with all the small oil channels that this oil might not get around as quick as the regular spec oil, and then in the other camp some people believe that once you have racked up a lot of kms you are better off using a bit thicker oil, since if things are wearing it will help the rings to make a better seal.
All in all, it really comes down to a range of factors, and your level of comfort. For a second car that has 220k on it that is otherwise falling apart but still mechanically sound and required from time to time, or if the car is starting to blow a bit of smoke or requiring top ups between oil changes, you could justify saving the coin. If the car is something you plan on keeping very long term, e.g. a future classic, and otherwise works as new, stick with the spec oil. If you hang out long enough you can usually find synthetic oils for 20 bucks so a $10 saving isn't that much
I’ve checked my manual but i can’t understand what all the diagram numbers mean.
My bike uses 15w-50, would this be ok to put in? Its literally 20% the price of the 15w-50 that im meant to put in
Yeah just let it warm up a bit more when the engine is cold
Thanks OP, I got a 79 XD falcon that loves this stuff.
1 left at Warners Bay NSW for anyone interested
Plenty of stock at chaddy Vic. Picked two up just now
@tomascivinod Just check to see if it has a friction modifier added, as this can cause a wet clutch to slip.
This is a great oil for any older Commodores or Falcons. I ran it in my 3.8 Commodore sometimes and that had 351k on the odo before I let go of it. I typically buy whatever is on sale. Point is, the most important thing you can do for your car is regular oil changes and with a mineral oil like this Castrol GTX, you would ideally change it every 5k.
I've since bought a 5.0 Commodore and I'll be running the same oil, I just picked up 2 bottles.
For anyone out there wondering what brand they should use, any brand is fine as long as the oil meets the specification for your vehicle. Regular oil changes are more important than the brand of oil going into your car. Period.
Would it damage my system to run this in a v-twin engine that requires the same viscosity? My oil is normally $60~
Awesome. My car is about to pass its 1,000,000km service interval so great timing.