Toyota Hiace 2008 3.0 Turbo Diesel Won't Start

LRick351 on 23/01/2020 - 19:33
Last edited 24/01/2020 - 10:06 by 1 other user

Last week my brother left the headlights on overnight and my car didn't want to start. Jump started the car it turned on and went for a drive (30mins) to recharge the battery. Turned the engine off then I turned it back on to double check to see if the car would start. It worked. Yay

The following day I go to turn my car on and it didn't start. Went to jump start it, did not start and nothing showed up on the instrument panel, horn, lights, radio didn't work too. Thought the battery was faulty, so I go to Repco to get them to have a look at it and they said that the battery is fine and they'll charge the battery for me overnight.
I picked up the battery chucked it back into my van, same problem. Nothing wrong with the battery. So I decided to buy a multi-meter and check each fuse for continuity, nothing wrong with the fuses. Got that off the list too.

What do i do?

I'm an apprentice and as you may know apprentices don't earn much. Auto mechanics charge a lot. So if you could please tell me what I need to do in order for me to resolve this issue that would be great.

Thanks

Car - Toyota Hiace 2008 3.0 Turbo Diesel

Automotive Toyota Van

Comments

  • KingJuf on 23/01/2020 - 19:36
    +1

    Are you sure you checked all the fuses? Normally there is a big main 80A or 100A fuse. Also the Hiace has like 3 or 4 different fuse boxes.

    • Rick351 on 23/01/2020 - 19:40

      I checked each fuse on each fuse box. On one of the boxes there were two of the big main fuses. One of the fuses were rated at 40A and the other on rated at 30A. Nothing wrong with those fuses.

      • KingJuf on 23/01/2020 - 19:49
        +1

        Pretty sure main fuse is bigger then 40A but maybe im wrong, check battery terminals including earth make sure its all tight.

      • KingJuf on 23/01/2020 - 22:52
        +1

        Ive got a Hiace myself, took a picture for you as you can see there are several MAIN fuses one of which is 140A, check those all. This fuses box is located at the front of the engine.

        https://files.ozbargain.com.au/upload/207988/76581/157978016…

        • Rick351 on 24/01/2020 - 10:47

          https://files.ozbargain.com.au/upload/336976/76592/20200124_…

          Yes you're right, though i can't see a single fuse in the fuse box. No fuses in the white plastic thing(fuse link?).

          • Rick351 on 24/01/2020 - 11:17

            @Rick351: I used the multi meter to check each fuse for voltage, other than the main fuse as it is not really accessible. Each fuse showed a reading of 12.5V-6V, which means the main fuse is not blown right? As it would indicate 0V if the main fuse were to be blown? Also i checked the voltage going to the fusible link and got a reading too.

          • pegaxs on 24/01/2020 - 11:18

            @Rick351: That's the fusable link. It's where most of the vehicle gets its power from. In most Toyotas, it's like a bus bar for the whole car. If the car was jumped badly, spiked or too much load from an almost dead battery, it could have fried the link. And it's a shit job of Toyota to make one big long arse fuseable link for the whole car instead of 4 or 5 separate fuses.

            You might be able to test across it with a multi-meter to see if it has continuity, or test the voltage from both sides of the link. If any of the big amp parts of the fuses are blown, it most likely kill power to the whole car.

            • Rick351 on 24/01/2020 - 11:20

              @pegaxs: I tested the fusible link for voltage and it showed a reading of 12.5V.

              • Rick351 on 24/01/2020 - 11:20

                @Rick351: What do you mean by big amp parts?

              • pegaxs on 24/01/2020 - 11:21

                @Rick351: Did you make sure you tested both sides of a fuse for voltage?? So many times I've had customers coming in and telling me they tested the fuse, but only tested one side of the fuse. They saw voltage, so they moved on, when the other side of the fuse had no voltage.

                A fuseable link is a heap of fuses (or wires/metal strips) in a block together. On the Toyota, it will have something like 20amp, 30amp, 50amp and 140amp all on the same fuse link. The big amp parts of the link are for things like starter motor, where 20~30amp is usually for main vehicle supply.

                • Rick351 on 24/01/2020 - 11:28

                  @pegaxs: I'll check that however I wouldn't be able to get readings from the smaller fuses if the main fuse had blown right?
                  The fusible link that i have in my car is in the link below. I did not check the main fuses for voltage as i can't even see the bloody thing in the fusible link.

                  https://www.google.com/search?q=fusible+link+toyota+hiace&so…

                  • pegaxs on 24/01/2020 - 11:35

                    @Rick351: From what I can gather, the 120a part of the fuse (MAIN4) is the main body fuse in the link. It covers power to;

                    All components in “WELCAB”, “AC100V”, “RR FOG”, “RR HTR”, “OBD”, “STOP”, “AM1”, “DOOR”, “FR FOG”, “PWR”, “DEF”, “ELS”, “TAIL”, “PANEL”, “ECU-IG”, “WIP”, “WSH”, “GAUGE”, “RR WIP-WSH” and “A/C” fuses

                    So, basically all of the vehicle electrical systems. If this part of the link is blown, then there is a high chance that nothing or very little will work on that vehicle.

                    Getting that fusible link tested (correctly) first would be where I would be starting.

                    • Rick351 on 24/01/2020 - 11:54

                      @pegaxs: I understand the main power fuse covers power to all components. Could you send me a link to test it correctly? I went from - of the battery to the bolt/nut of the fusible link. Gave me a reading of 12.5V. Did i test it properly?

                      • pegaxs on 24/01/2020 - 12:03

                        @Rick351: Nope, that just tests that the cable has power up to the link. You need to test "across" the link.

                        You might have to take the cover off the link or even remove the link and get at it form underneath and test the wires coming away from the link to see if you have power through the link.

                        YOu might have to Google it or YouTube how to test it correctly, but just checking the nut on the fuse is only testing you have power "up to" the fuse, no "across" the fuse.

                        • Rick351 on 24/01/2020 - 12:49

                          @pegaxs: I will google/youtube it on how to test it properly. But how do i have power going to all the other not so important fuses if the power goes from the battery>main fuse>not so important fuses? I do have power going up to the fuse link, but why would it be neccessary for me to check if i have power going across the fuse link if i have power going to the not so important fuses?

                          • brad1-8tsi on 24/01/2020 - 12:58

                            @Rick351: I would remove the link and use an OHM meter to test for continuity.

                          • pegaxs on 24/01/2020 - 13:50

                            @Rick351:

                            But how do i have power going to all the other not so important fuses if the power goes from the battery>main fuse>not so important fuses?

                            Because this fuse isn't the Lord of the fuses, it only covers what it covers, you can still get power to some other circuits that are not on that main fuse.

                            For example, if the A/C or fan is on another main fuse, you will get power to the fan, but not the lights.

          • KingJuf on 24/01/2020 - 12:54

            @Rick351: Apologies you are right its the fuse link, this may help you: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.autogenius.info/toyota-hiac…

            Check fuses relating to ignition, ecu and guages in the passengers compartment box.

  • aussieprepper on 23/01/2020 - 19:44

    Its probably your immobiliser or some sort of alarm? Its common for this to happen after changing a battery.

    Could also be your starter tap it and see if it helps.

  • pegaxs on 23/01/2020 - 19:52
    +2

    Main power fuse is possibly blown. Low voltage leads to increased amps. A quick drive on a dead battery is only a surface charge, so turning it off and starting it again, it may have been under voltage and thus spiked the main fuses.

    Also check your main power relay, although this should still let some vehicle systems start up, and you're saying its completely dead?

    Check the main power leads to the battery that you didn't get them arse about (+ to the - terminal). Also check that your earth (- negative) cable is ok and attached to the body. On some vehicles, it's common for these to get corroded or to lose connection with the body of the vehicle.

    Next, check your ignition switch. It may have failed. If you are getting power to the fuse boxes but nothing is switching on with the key and you have checked your main power fuses and power relay, it may be the ignition switch.

    It's not an easy problem to diagnose over the internet and I'm not sure how you tested the fuses and if you even did that correctly, but the items above are where I would start.

    • MS Paint on 23/01/2020 - 20:09
      +5

      Look at you pretending to know about cars 😁

      Anway, this guy drives a Fiat so is familiar with electrical issues.

  • spackbace on 23/01/2020 - 19:52

    Car key battery? Or is it a 'dumb' key?

  • brendanm on 23/01/2020 - 19:53

    What voltage do you have at the battery? Still have no horn, radio etc?

    • Rick351 on 23/01/2020 - 19:55

      About 12.5V, yes no horn, lights etc.

      • brendanm on 23/01/2020 - 19:56

        Check resistance from the negative battery terminal (the actual lead twrminal on the battery itself), and a metal point on the engine. Then check resistance between the positive battery terminal and the main power wire to the alternator or starter motor.

        • Rick351 on 23/01/2020 - 20:02

          will do first thing tomorrow morning.

  • IIGnomeII on 23/01/2020 - 19:56

    Questions:
    1) Does the headunit work?
    2) Do the headlights work?
    3) Do the hazards work?
    If any of the above work and the dash doesn't then it is most likely a fuse.

    Aside from that it could be dirty terminals or contact to the battery.
    Can you test the battery in another car?

    • Rick351 on 23/01/2020 - 20:01

      None of that, I did clean the terminals and did test to see if the battery is supplying power to the cables with a multi meter. Didn't get it tested on another car as i had it tested at repco.
      I had checked the continuity of the main fuse and gave me a reading of 0.06 ohms which seems like there is nothing wrong with the fuse? as i had seen the test done on youtube.

  • apsilon on 23/01/2020 - 20:22

    Brake lights work? Dash lights? Plug something into the cig lighter and see if it works? If absolutely nothing works then it's likely a fuse or fusible link. Have you checked battery voltage by connecting multimeter to the positive terminal and engine or chassis rather than the negative terminal? Could be a bad main ground.

    • Rick351 on 03/02/2020 - 15:28

      https://files.ozbargain.com.au/upload/336976/76834/20200203_…

      Car has been sitting in the driveway a while…. anyways, i got a reading of 12.5V does that indicate the ground is bad?

      • pegaxs on 03/02/2020 - 15:42

        That's not really testing the grounding.

        What you would be better off doing is putting the negative test lead probe somewhere else on the body, for example on the bolt above it (or any of the green areas I have marked), not on the end of the negative cable.

        If you put the probes across these green points and you are getting full voltage, the issue is with fuses.

        • Rick351 on 03/02/2020 - 15:52

          I got the same reading on all of the bolts. Black lead is negative right?

          • Rick351 on 03/02/2020 - 15:52

            @Rick351: What should i do next?

            • pegaxs on 03/02/2020 - 16:00

              @Rick351: Black is negative, correct.

              What should i do next?

              Get the fusable link (big white looking fuse thing) tested correctly. That is the main power to the cars systems.

              If you put the red multi-meter probe on the nut, the black probe on one of those green areas from before, you should have power to there. That means you have power UP TO the fuse link, but not through it.

              Once you have worked out you have power up to the link, you need to test every wire that comes away from the link. You may have to get under the fuseable link to get at the outputs, as they come out the bottom. The other way would be to remove the link and use the "Ohm" part of the multi-meter to see if you have continuity across the terminals.

              • Rick351 on 03/02/2020 - 16:05

                @pegaxs: The red probe going to the nut on the fuse link and the black probe to what green area? Sorry not sure if you're talking about the green areas you highlighted on that other photo.

                • pegaxs on 03/02/2020 - 16:08

                  @Rick351: Red probe to nut on link Black probe to one of the areas I marked out in green (Or any nut on the body that looks like those ones that would be near the fuse box)

                  • Rick351 on 03/02/2020 - 16:13

                    @pegaxs: Thanks. I have just done that and did not get a reading.

                    • pegaxs on 03/02/2020 - 16:19

                      @Rick351: Did you try it with the ignition on?
                      Was the multi-meter on Volts DC?
                      Did you try from a few different earthing points?

                      You should be getting voltage to there at least. If not, you will need to trace back along where the wire that bolts to that link goes. If you tested it correctly and there is no voltage to that part of the fuse, there is something between there and the battery that is blown/damaged/disconnected, and that could possibly be the alternator, which you could have fried when you tried to jump start it.

                      • Rick351 on 03/02/2020 - 16:27

                        @pegaxs: Yes i tried it with the ignition on and off. Yes it was on volts DC and i tried that to different earthing points. No reading

                        • pegaxs on 03/02/2020 - 16:30

                          @Rick351: Ok, well, you need to track back where that cable goes and at every connection you find, test for power again the same way. Black probe to the body, red probe to the cable connection.

                          Also, if the cable goes through any plugs, pull them apart and check inside for dirt, mud, corrosion, etc. Clean the plugs up, reconnect them and test for power on both sides of the plug. No power, keep moving down the cable till you find power.

                          • Rick351 on 03/02/2020 - 20:38

                            @pegaxs: I'll suss that out tomorrow, what is the first thing the cable goes back to from the fuse link? Hard to see where the cables are going. Do you suggest i go under the van to have a better look?

                        • pegaxs on 03/02/2020 - 16:39

                          @Rick351: Another test you can do is to test the positive battery connector. Black probe to an earth point on the body, red probe on something that isn't the direct battery terminal. For example, on the outside of the terminal clamp, the nut/bolt of the clamp, the exposed wiring in the cable… (Places marked in green)

                          If you get no power between these points and the body, then your clamp needs cleaning, because, let's face it, that clamp is manky as (fropanity)

                • pegaxs on 03/02/2020 - 21:05

                  @Rick351: You need to find out why you don’t have power up to that terminal. There has to be a reason why there is no power to the main part of the distribution fuses.

                  You can chase it from the battery if that makes it easier. Just follow the cable and test to see if it has voltage at each point it terminates or joins. Once you stop getting voltage, you know that is where the problem will be.

                  • Rick351 on 06/02/2020 - 14:20

                    @pegaxs: Okay so i had a look and the first thing the cable goes to from the battery is to the main fuse box(https://files.ozbargain.com.au/upload/336976/76592/20200124_…) where i had tested to see if there is power going to the fuse link terminal. I also tested for to see if there is power going to fuse link on the side of it(red/white/black) and didn't get a reading. There are two earth connections that run off to the body before the main fuse box and there is no problem with that. I had a look online and is it possible that the cables going to the fuse link burnt out? Do you suggest i remove the fuse link and look at the wiring inside the box?

                    • pegaxs on 06/02/2020 - 15:19

                      @Rick351: You need to find out why you are not getting power up to the fuse link. You need to get power from the battery to that link. If you’re not getting power to the link, there is no point testing anything else until you work that part of it out.

                      • Rick351 on 06/02/2020 - 17:23

                        @pegaxs: Okay, in order to work that part out should i remove the fuse link and have a look inside?

                        • pegaxs on 06/02/2020 - 17:49

                          @Rick351: Without being there and looking at the vehicle in person, it’s hard to determine exactly what I am looking at through some random photos on a forum.

                          What you need to do is work out where the cable goes from the battery positive. It "should" go to the nut on the end of the fusesble link. If it doesn't, and goes into the bottom of the fuse, you will need to remove the fuse out of the vehicle and see where the cable goes to and check for power along that main cable.

                          TRACE THE CABLE.

                          From battery, back to ANY joint or connector, test it at that point. If you have power on both sides of the joint/connector, move onto the next. Don't jump past connectors without testing them fully.

                          I have this feeling that you are either bypassing steps or are not testing correctly. It is very unlikely that it is a problem with the main cable. So, If you are not getting power TO the main fuse, you need to find out why. Possible reason is, another fuseable link inline with that cable that you have not found/tested. Bad battery connections. Or, you are testing it wrong. Without watching, it's impossible to tell which one.

                        • pegaxs on 06/02/2020 - 18:59

                          @Rick351: I have the wiring diagram for what I think if your vehicle. There are a few parts you need to look at here.

                          1 (RED): seems to be a fuseable link between the battery and the main fuse (green part 4). This is the part that is probably blown if you are not getting power up to the nut on the main fuse (blue 3). It would explain why there is no power to the main fuse. This is the one I believe is blown and why you have no power going anywhere in the vehicle. This will be somewhere between the battery and that main fuse (green 4).

                          2 (PINK): Again, is another part of the fuseable link. It may be part of the same fuseable link as in the other above or could look something like "this"

                          3 (BLUE): is the nut on the end of the big, long grey fuse.

                          4 (GREEN): Is the big, grey main body distribution fusable link from your photo

                          • Rick351 on 08/02/2020 - 15:08

                            @pegaxs: I'm back, i had someone from RACV come in, they ran a cable(don't know what it's called, just a metal strand) going from the positive terminal to the main fuse link terminal and the car started. As soon as he removed that cable the car just turned off. I don't think the main fuse is blown as the car started right? Seems like the cable(BLUE) going to the fuse is stuffed? Should I just run a new cable?

                            • pegaxs on 08/02/2020 - 15:20

                              @Rick351: The big grey main distribution fuse isn't blown then, but your main protection fuseable link is. This is what I am trying to tell you above.

                              The main protection fusable link will be somewhere along that main cable that the RACV guy bypassed. He didn't bother to show that to you? You need to find that link and replace it.

                              You could run a new cable, but you run the risk of it having no overload protection.

                              As I have said before, you need to trace the RED positive cable around from the battery to that big, grey looking fuse. Somewhere along the way will be something that does not look like the cable and may just look like a small, black box, or a totally different wire in the circuit. Go looking at the main cable and see what you can find. It may even have soemthing like "MAIN FL 3.0W" printed on it (it may not have anything on it.)

                              • Rick351 on 08/02/2020 - 16:10

                                @pegaxs: Yes that RACV guy didn't bother to show me anything, I mean all he said was it could either be the main fuse link or the cable going to fuse link. Seems like the guy didn't know what he was talking about lol. Basically RACV can tow the car off free of charge to a mechanic. I will look for that small box. I can recall seeing a small box though i'm not sure if it goes from the battery or from the fuse box. Will check it out.

  • EVA-01 on 24/01/2020 - 22:58

    Alternator?

  • ShannonN on 25/01/2020 - 14:23

    Best to post the problem on the Toyota Aussie forums here
    big chance others have had the same problem and can pinpoint the cause, as you are an apprentice and your brother left the lights on, make him pay for auto electrician?

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