This was posted 5 years 29 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

Related
  • expired

TOPPING D10 Mini USB DAC $108.80 Delivered @ YiDuoHua Hifi via Amazon AU

110
TOPPING D10 Mini USB DAC $108.80 Delivered @ YiDuoHua Hifi via Amazon AUAffiliate
Go to Deal
Cashback
pyr0maniac on 28/10/2019 - 13:21 amazon.com.au (753 clicks)
This post contains affiliate links. OzBargain might earn commissions when you click through and make purchases. Please see this page for more information.

At $108 this seems like outstanding value given the hardware/specs. Emphasising value because there'll still be several trade-offs at this price point.

Don't forget CR/SB for additional sweetness.

Product Features:
1. Customized Thesycon driver + XMOS XU208 + ES9018K2M + OP.
2.Maximum support DSD256, PCM384kHz/32bit.
3.Orange indicator of format & sampling rate.
4. Auto on/off.
5.Exchangeable OP.

Size:103mm x 146mm x 37mm
Weigh:314g(Unit only)
Power input:DC5V/0.5A(USB powered)
Input:USB
Digital output:OPT/COAX
Analog output:LINE OUT

<0.0008% at 1kHz
THD+N @A-weighting
11 5dB at 1 kHz
SNR @A-weighting
Frequency Response:20Hz-20kHz(+0.1dB)
OutPut Level:2Vrms @0dBFS
Noise @A-weighting:<4uVms
Crosstalk:-1 15dB@1kHz
Balance:0.1dB
Output lmpedance:100ohms
USB IN:44.1kHz-384kHz/16Bit-32Bit.｢DSD64-DSD256(Dop.Native)
OPT/COAX OUT:44.1kHz-192kHz/16Bit-24Bit

Price History at C CamelCamelCamel.
Electrical & Electronics Signal Converter Topping

Related Stores

Amazon AU
Amazon AU
Marketplace
Aoshida HiFi-AU (YiDuoHua HiFi)
Aoshida HiFi-AU (YiDuoHua HiFi)

closed Comments

  • Jamesx on 28/10/2019 - 13:31

    It says 240v, but where is the power input? The yellow one next to USB looks like a digital output. USB powered the same time as sound input?

    • pyr0maniac on 28/10/2019 - 13:33
      +4

      Good spot. I'd say Amazon's description is wrong. The actual item description says:

      Power input:DC5V/0.5A(USB powered)

      • nereus on 28/10/2019 - 14:00

        Can confirm - USB only

  • bogak on 28/10/2019 - 13:44

    hmm it's a bit strange how this does not have any inputs.

    • oranglama on 28/10/2019 - 13:48

      Input:USB

    • Laserface on 28/10/2019 - 13:49

      USB is the input (as in, audio over USB from a windows/mac computer)

  • mostlygordon on 28/10/2019 - 13:53
    +1

    I have one, works great with my Linux NUC running Roon. Highly recommended. Note this is a DAC only and requires an amplifier.

    • bienvenu on 28/10/2019 - 13:57

      Does it make a big thump on the output when it is switched off (ie, when input power is removed), or when the USB is unplugged in use?

      • mostlygordon on 28/10/2019 - 13:59

        Can't comment sorry. Mine is always connected and the NUC runs 24/7. Plugged into the CD input on my A/V amplifier.

      • nereus on 28/10/2019 - 14:01
        +1

        No, mine doesn't

    • [Deactivated] on 28/10/2019 - 14:36
      +1

      Thanks for that… I've been trying to get a grip on these things and how they work. Can I therefore assume, given I have an active/powered subwoofer I 'could' utilise this BUT would have to have the SW connected via the amp' yes/no? It may defeat the purpose? Music would be coming from my (iMac/iTunes) computer so if you (or anyone) can advise of issues… pros' or cons' it would be greatly appreciated. TIA.

      I'm a 'wannabe' audiophile on a 2 star budget :O(

      • mostlygordon on 28/10/2019 - 15:06

        What does "SW" mean? Sounds like this would do the job fine. I hope you are using ALAC files. Not much point using HQ DACs if the source is AAC / MP3. I only use FLAC / DSD. Most Mac Audiophiles would use Amarra or Roon rather than iTunes…

        • Magical Sound Shower on 28/10/2019 - 15:38

          SW = Sub Woofer

          • mostlygordon on 28/10/2019 - 15:57

            @Magical Sound Shower: Ahh, OK. Yes the SW connects to the amp. I don't use one personally. I have speakers with good ported base. Every SW I auditioned had audible latency which is OK for movies, but not good for music.

            • AlexF on 28/10/2019 - 18:23

              @mostlygordon:

              Every SW I auditioned had audible latency which is OK for movies, but not good for music.

              Temporal misalignment is worse for movies than music, because of lipsync misalignment is distracting.
              Your AVR will take measurements during setup and determine relative speaker delays and then align all audio for most preferred sitting position.
              Automatic lipsync alignment is (optional) feature of HDMI, but both video source and AVR should also be offering manual alignment.

              • mostlygordon on 28/10/2019 - 23:44
                +1

                @AlexF: Sadly A/V amps did not have such features when I bought my Polk's. I doubt there is much vocals in sub-base (maybe except James Earl Jones LOL), sub-base latency is still more important for music IMO. If an explosion arrives a bit late, it just sounds a bit further away. Late base in music sounds out of time.

      • pyr0maniac on 28/10/2019 - 15:55

        If the subwoofer has a 'line out' you can plug this unit directly into the subwoofer then use the line out to the amp (or vice versa).

        As for pros/cons of doings this, I'm hesistant to say other than you wouldn't really be making it any worse.

  • ChurchMouth on 28/10/2019 - 13:55

    I like mine and this is cheaper than I paid on amazon

  • Diji1 on 28/10/2019 - 14:29
    -1

    People should note that most DACs sound the same (there are only a small number of DACs that suffer from not perfectly reproducing a digital sample) and if they want better audio quality they should spend money on their amplifier and speakers.

    Spending money on DAC does nothing.

    Naturally there is a large group of people who don't understand how confirmation bias works, or that it applies to them like everyone else, who hear better audio through their DAC.

    • bruc3 on 28/10/2019 - 14:41

      Next level is when people pay $3k for a cable which improves the sound quality significantly.

      • mostlygordon on 28/10/2019 - 16:03
        +1

        Bargain at 3K, you need one of these to get a good picture on the TV;-)

        • bruc3 on 28/10/2019 - 16:14

          Crazy how such a product exists.

    • Sxio on 28/10/2019 - 14:59

      Gotta say, noticed a big difference between my Topping d30 and my asus soar. Fuller sound. much more bass. Had to turn my sub down slightly. Everything sounds bigger.

      I like it.

      • Sxio on 28/10/2019 - 15:00

        I also noticed a big difference between my 'audiophile' onboard sound and the asus soar as well. Definitely not my imagination. It's better. \

        But I would NEVER buy another DAC on top of this. Definitely extremely diminishing returns after this.

    • Tunblor on 28/10/2019 - 15:27
      +4

      I think the biggest part of spending money on a DAC is to remove a large part of the analog signal path out of the way of the significant interference and noise inside a PC case.

      A lot of on-board DACs in laptops and desktops and other devices have hums and hisses and snaps and crackles because of power circuits right next to the output, or dodgy earths, etc.

    • krisspy on 28/10/2019 - 18:12

      Confirmation bias is the life of the audio world. People get caught up in trying to get the "perfect" sound for their gear when eq does the exact same thing. If you want a different sound then get different speakers.

      Happily running BW floorstandanders on an smsl Ad18 T-amp, no difference to the rotel power amps I trialled :S

      /weirdflex

    • AlexF on 28/10/2019 - 18:31

      want better audio quality they should spend money on their amplifier and speakers

      distortion produced by even the most expensive speaker driver renders minute fidelity differences in solid state components inconsequential. However, I have heard hum and hiss from expensive components, so, some are just cheap or bad, masqueraded as high-end. NwAvGuy and his blog forever unmasked the industry.

  • superforever on 28/10/2019 - 16:10

    I have one it is so good with my infinity speaker and Hi-Res audio on foobar2000

  • petry on 28/10/2019 - 16:35
    +2

    maybe the fact that it was a lightning deal would have been useful in the header….

  • [Deactivated] on 28/10/2019 - 16:37

    Dang' I'm having a hell of a time working out what I need. My type 'A' amp blew the left speaker channel recently. Happy enough with the medium/large desk speakers and SW I have so wishing I knew better what exactly to do given the current amount of amp' type options there are these days. As I said before I am a 'wannabe' audiophile on a 2 star budget. Sure would appreciate any advice on the matter…

    Getting another (even if used) 'A' type amp might fit the bill, but I've since learned they tend to consume a lot of power. Maybe that's not even an issue as I only 'turn it up' once or twice a month for a few hours of a Friday or Saturday night. Also I believe many/most will say the type 'A' amps produce the best (analogue) sound? Gahhhh! so lost on this and really starting to get withdrawal symptoms while in stereo limbo! The current 'stereo down' issue has presented me with an opportunity to improve my system so again, any advice will be greatly appreciated. I really want to sit back with the new setup and be able to say… oh yah… this is WAY better!

    Just noticed this deal has expired so might create a forum topic. Probably a more appropriate place anyways.

    • alvian on 28/10/2019 - 17:40

      Class A, not type A.

      they tend to consume a lot of power… Maybe that's not even an issue as I only 'turn it up' once or twice

      Class A amps will consume large amounts of electricity even at zero volume or when playing "silence" because the transistors (the components that do the actual work) are always switched on.

      Other classes of amps will consume variable and lesser amounts of electricity because their transistors are allowed to be switched off.

      • [Deactivated] on 28/10/2019 - 18:55

        Cheers, 'Class A'… got it! :O)

        • SirDale on 28/10/2019 - 21:11

          Class D amps are the bee's knees. They are extremely power efficient.

    • krisspy on 28/10/2019 - 18:18
      +1

      How did your speakers blow? During power up or Max volume?. How much power are your speakers rated?

      Look into T class amps. Very budget. Class A amps only offer more heat and power consumption, chances are if you're not gonna go deep in the snake oil pool you just need something that sounds nice.

      SMSL Ad18 is what I'm using for speakers rated 200w. Only costs about 230 bucks or so. Otherwise a used AV or stereo receiver if you need more power or features. Audio tech hasn't really moved in decades, power amps are still the same.

      • alvian on 28/10/2019 - 18:57

        From what Chris wrote I think the left channel of the amp is faulty and not the speaker, otherwise he would be looking to buy a new speaker instead of a new amp.

        • [Deactivated] on 28/10/2019 - 23:02

          This is correct yes and thanks for clarifying.

      • [Deactivated] on 28/10/2019 - 19:10

        Funny you should mention the SMSL AD18 as I did have a relatively close look at. Kind of blew it off as wasn't quite able to see if I could hook up my beloved SW to/with it…
        As a rough guide, yes you definitely would hear the music/SW if you were a close neighbour. Luckily there is a very good distance between neighbours where I live.

        Not entirely sure why I lost the left channel. The amp is quite old anyways… and probably considered relatively average so no big deal there.
        Is the SMSL a 'Class T'? I hate to admit, I'm not sure what rating my speakers are tbh. I do like the price and compact size of the SMSL. Would be nice to reduce the footprint on my desk BUT I am so used to and … 'comfy' with the Class A type amp/amps. Getting the SMSL would be quite a 'daring' jump for me but hey, certainly all ears (no pun intended) if it fits the bill.

        Update! … just took off fronts of desk speakers. A bit surprised to see the are (only) rated at 50 watts per speaker. and…

        'Bass Reflex'
        '2 way'
        8 ohms per.
        and (wtf?) 'liquid cooled'…

        Specs surprised me as they hold up quite well at very loud levels without 'frapping' out.

    • pyr0maniac on 28/10/2019 - 20:29
      +3

      Without going into too much detail, this is 2019; Class D amps can produce similar sound quality to Class A amps at a fraction of the price. And if you were to use $/performnace ratio as a metric, then Class D outdoes Class A by a significant margin.

      This may be an unpopular opinion amongst audiophiles, but I'll stand by it.

      • Luc on 28/10/2019 - 20:49

        You'll find many 'audiophiles' are just keen hobbyists, I'm one. Have a pure class A tube amp and several class D and a few vintage AB amps in both solid state and valve(tube). A mate has amps, pure class A Tube amps he knocks up for less than a $100. Also makes circuit boards for class D that cost about 15 bucks. They're nothing to look at but they drive various speaker configs quite well.

        Quote: "unpopular opinion amongst audiophiles" nah not really.

  • bestbarginever on 28/10/2019 - 17:45
    +1

    If you are using this and the SPDIF output then you probably using it wrong

    • [Deactivated] on 28/10/2019 - 19:14

      hmmm… I'll have to double check this… Certainly don't want to make any mistakes when I finally get the newer setup up and running!

      I'd imagine it would be very easy for someone lesser informed about hooking up such things… yes, that includes me! :OS :O]

      Cheers for advice.

    • r0nmac on 29/10/2019 - 13:50

      True that. Amen.

Login or Join to leave a comment
Login Join