Holden Captiva Diagnostic Mine Field

Hi everyone,
Firstly, yes, I know this car is called a ‘craptiva’ for a reason. But I bought the car secondhand not knowing any better. The piece of work I purchased the car off sold it to me with a problem that he knew it had, but purposely withheld this information from me.

It has an intermittent fault. Sometimes it happens regularly I.e 3 times within 100km, othertimes nothing will happen for 1000+ km. Fault only really occurs driving on the highway i.e 100km/hr plus. When fault happens, the car goes into limp mode. I have to restart the car, it resets itself and off I go until it happens again.

I have spent over $1000 trying to get this problem sorted Egr valve, egr valve solenoid and some piece of hose have been replaced but faults still happening. I feel that no one really knows what they are dealing with and there is a lot of guesswork involved.

The car is 2012 LX 7, Series II diesel. Auto. Has 89000km on the clock. I purchased it for $12000 not knowing it had such problems.

Current fault codes are:

P200A - intake manifold runner

P2263 - turbocharger boost system performance

U0073 - Control Module Communication Bus A Off

Any idea what kind of problem I’m dealing with here? Is it worth spending any more money trying to fix it or is it basically ready for the scrap pile? I have only driven 8000km in it since I’ve had it. Very disappointed and will be VERY wary of scum of the earth people trying to offload their lemon to a genuinely kind and caring person who is clearly a terrible judge of character,

Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Thank you kindly.

Comments

  • diesel

    Is it a turbo diesel? If it is, check the turbo.

    • +1

      When was the last time a naturally aspirated diesel was sold in Australia? Early 2000s?

  • Unfortunately it sounds like the problem will indeed be a guess to solve. There are a number of things that could be an issue, but at a guess, it could be as simple as a dodgy wiring connection but finding it is the hard part.

    Our Captiva was traded for two reasons. One, we outgrew the boot space with seven seats in use. Two, thee started to be intermittent electrical faults - the AC control display would stop working, cutting out AC etc.

    Good luck.

  • I was going to say the intake may need to be cleaned as 89k km it's probably fairly blocked by now (thanks EGR) and could cause the first 2 errors (your mechanic may have already done this given they're replaced the EGR valve so should know to at least inspect the intake but that third error….

    I'm not a mechanic but that would appear to be bad. I believe it's one computer or senors not talking to another so either one of them is faulty or the wiring is faulty. Neither are an easy or cheap fix. As I said though, I'm not a mechanic so that's my educated guess. An auto electrician may be able to better diagnose that one but I still think they'll spend a lot of time and therefore money trying to find the fault than you still have to pay for the part etc.

  • +10

    Time to move that Daewoo on to the next person who doesn't do any due diligence.

  • +10

    OP cut your losses, trade it in at a dealership for something reliable. These vehicles are seriously that terrible and you'd just be throwing more good money after bad.

  • -3

    Holden Captiva Diagnostic Mine Field

    I guess you could say it's the Sri Lanka of cars

  • +2

    U0073 - Control Module Communication Bus A Off

    Push this Bus off a cliff

    /dusts hands

  • Firstly, yes, I know this car is called a ‘craptiva’ for a reason. But I bought the car secondhand not knowing any better. The piece of work I purchased the car off sold it to me with a problem that he knew it had, but purposely withheld this information from me.

    Unfortunately second-hand private car transactions are very much caveat emptor. Seller aren't required to tell you anything at all, there's no "withholding" anything here.

    Have you taken it to a mechanic? If they've experience with Captivas, they might know the issue regardless of codes. If I were to guess, since it's a diesel, check the particulates filter - if that's clogged it'll mess up the whole system up the chain.

    • +2

      Unfortunately these cars are so renown as lemons that most legit mechanics won't even touch one. They know if they do, it'll be an unending pain of repeat problems which may ultimately end up with the owner blaming the mechanic for "not fixing the problems".

      One of the only cars I've ever seen a dealership required to provide a full refund for. Crap car broke down 3 times within 10,000km and spent less than 3 months in the owner's possession within the first year of ownership.

  • Unfortunately the issue you are experiencing is common, however the fix is not definitive. have a look on Whirlpool for others having the same problem with a myriad of potential fixes:-
    https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/2491318

    • +4

      After watching the suffering of a family member firsthand due to one of these cars I'd highly recommend OP just trade it in.

      They'll spend heaps of cash and get nowhere.

      They're lucky the transmission appears to be working fine (for now). Allows them to drive it to a dealership to offload it!

  • my turbo diesel (outlander) is suffering from what I suspect to be a clogged EGR.

    car is no longer as smooth to drive as it once was. e.g. occasional smoke when starting off.

    one solution i read in my internetz research was to place a plate (with a small hole in the centre) between the intake and the EGR.

    completely blocking the EGR intake will cause issues (apparently for the computer). but a small hole will provide some exhaust gas re-circulation so the sensor will stay happy and not cause an issue.

    It was a great car until this issue arose.

    • EGR block may render a vehicle unroadworthy as you are messing with the emission system

      (but I've done it to mine)

      • +1

        Not sure about unroadworthy but the EPA fine for messing with emissions gear is about $10k I believe. The odds of it being discovered though is basically zero.

        • Hey, better odds than the roulette table. I'll take it!

  • I have spent over $1000 trying to get this problem sorted Egr valve, egr valve solenoid and some piece of hose have been replaced but faults still happening. I feel that no one really knows what they are dealing with and there is a lot of guesswork involved.

    P200A - intake manifold runner

    P2263 - turbocharger boost system performance

    This sort of points towards a split charge air hose which is fairly common on 2.2 Captivas but it may have been replaced already.

    Can you post a copy of the invoices you've got so far?

  • 8000km is a considerable amount of driving after purchase of any vehicle from a dealer or private seller, and well past what a roadworthy consumer rights, or even a statutory warranty would cover. Chances are this wasn't a problem hidden by the seller, (you can't hide these problems for 8000km, they will throw a engine light the third time you start it up if sold with these issues, so it would've happened to you days after, not months) the problem lies with the fact you've purchased one of the most unreliable cars to be sold in the Australian market and the issues are starting to come out as the car's odometer is going up. Get rid of it ASAP, its not worth keeping even when running 'well' since that doesn't really last for very long.

  • Why do people still buy captivas? Do they not have access to google?

  • These symptoms can be caused by a seized vgt mechanism on the turbo. Check it can move freely

  • Hi all, I had the same problem with my 2013 LX Captiva, 2.2k diesel. It kept going into limp mode, particularly on HWY or up hill. Fault codes were “P200A - intake manifold runner and P2263 - turbocharger boost system performance”. Took it to a few mechanics, who all scratched their heads and said it was anything from intake hoses, intake manifold replacement, to the entire replacement of the engine wiring harness :(. Then I took it to the service team at Holden, they found the fault quickly after testing both the intake and turbo correctly, i.e tested for vacuum leaks. They replaced the “Turbo Control Solenoid”. All is all good now, driving like a dream!!!! Hope it helps out. My take home from this is; like any high tech cars these days, take it to the experts who know the car. PS: FYI this link is also useful http://www.chevroletvidenbank.dk/ekstern/959-1.pdf Cheers, Mark

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