Hi, Everyone
This is my first time selling a car and I'm a bit confused. I have an old car that I would like to sell but, I'm currently selling it with no RWC and with ABS and Tracktion control light on. Apart from that, the car works. The question is how do you sell a car with issues. It is still registered so from what I know you need an RWC in order to transfer the rego. But some people online say you can sell it with no RWC and let the buyer fix it up and then get the RWC. My buyer is a mechanic. But if I go this route what do I need to Do? If the buyer gets a fine or speeding ticket won't it be issued to me? How are people selling cars with an engine light on in VIC? I'm located in VIC. Thanks
Quick Question On About Selling A Car
No Username on 14/01/2019 - 10:14
Comments
So far I've had 30 people who have contacted me, 8 of theme were mechanics. The main targeted audience were mechanics since the cost of fix the issue would cost more than the car itself.
make sure you clearly mark it "SOLD AS IS"
i sold my 4wd years ago with no rego and no rwc to a mechanic who basically bought it to do up for his son.
you will sell it to a mechanic no worries.
just keep saying "SOLD AS IS"
https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/registration/buy-sell-or-tra…
go here and it'll answer some of your q's…
Sell it unregistered = no RWC.
Take the registration plates off the car before the buyer takes delivery. Return those to VicRoads for a partial refund on your registration fees.
Do a Bill of Sale for the vehicle, to be signed by both buyer and seller, with date / time.
Might go this route thanks. Just don't want to spend any more money on this car.
All I did is summarise the info on the links provided by supasaiyan and John Kimble above.
Be very clear to potential buyers that the car is sold unregistered, as-is, and they need to deal with the collection, permits, etc.
This is an option, however will deter buyers away or lower your pice of sale. Not only now the buyer has to supply their own RWC and Rego they will need to bring the car into VicRoads so they can inspect to register the car again.
OP has posted in comments below that the car is a Holden Vectra 2001, selling for $1000. Most buyers would know what they are getting into to.
For not much less, OP could probably just sell it to a wrecker (and still get the registration refund).My point is as a buyer I would much prefer if the car is still registered or even expired (within 3 months of expiry date) and not cancelled. It is much more simple to get a RWC and mechanics may let little things slide. If you need to register that again and have VicRoads to inspect it, they potentially (most of the times) are really picky and might be more of a hassle. Yes you might get some money refund for the Rego, but as a buyer I would factor this in the cost.
I've done what you're suggesting a couple of times. Sell it without RWC but with the registration intact. I fill out all the transfer papers as normal and the buyer gets an RWC themselves within the 30 or whatever days required and transfers it.
Just make sure you have a copy of everything and an agreement signed by both parties to say ownership was transferred on date X and time X and full responsibility for the car and any traffic infringements after that time will sit with the new owner.
You should also ring VicRoads to confirm, but when I did they said it's perfectly fine to do it that way and legal, it's just not publicised
Noted. I was originally thinking of driving the car to his house then found out it was 6 hours away and was like naaaaa. I'll ring Vic Roads to confirm this. Thanks
Secod stratbargain. While VicRoads does suggest that RWC given on any sale, because it is needed to transfer the registration, sale and transfer of registration are two separate things and especially if you're selling it to a mechanic (who'll know how to do this), you can sell it with rego intact - just make it very clear the car is sold "as-is", date of sale, price, etc - and the buyer can sort out their own RWC.
Is the only issue you know of, the light being on ?
Im in NSW, this wouldn't be anything to stop roadworthy. Also, plenty of mechanics are lenient on roadworthy cert, and usually the ones that are really strict, are just trying to squeeze more money out of you for unnecessary repairs.
You probably should post what car it is, and what this 'mechanic' has offered to pay you for it ?
Your first car sale, there is a good chance the 'mechanic' is taking you for a ride here.
Even with the light on, I think most, if not all of these can be easily switched off. Sometimes they clear errors by plugging car into computer for a minute. Sometimes can be a sensor issue, just remove sensor might fix it.If you are open to putting it up for sale, and getting much more for your car, then first thing I would do, is go round to a few mechanics (or even just call them on the phone) and ask if it is OK for roadworthy with a dashlight on abs/traction , or would they fail it cos of light on dash.
I strongly suspect you are being taken advantage of by the 'mechanic' buyer, who knows its your first car sale, knows you are worried about issues, and knows you are naive when it comes to car sales.
He/she is willing to travel 6 hours, sounds like the price is wayyyyy under market value of what it is worth (even with the issue) if they willing to travel that far.
It's a Holden Vectra 2001. Selling it for $1000. The car is supposed to be OBD2 but for some reason, my reader can't read it. But my friend's device can. With the ABS light on its an instant fail when getting an RWC. The issue is easy to fix. I just don't have a torque wrench to tighten the wheel back up to specification. Basically, the issue is a loose Wheel Speed Sensor causing the speedo not to work. If you go over a speed bump there is a chance the lights will go off.
I checked redbook.com.au for you. That car usually sells for between $1400-$3400 .
If you just want it gone, selling for $1000 isn't such a bad price, but you could get more for it..
If you have a regular mechanic, or 1 you have a decent relationship (basically 1 that will be fair and not overcharge) , then they should be able to tighten the wheel, and do RWC at same time. My mechanic would probably charge me $10-$20 plus price of RWC, to tighten wheel, do RWC.With the ABS light on its an instant fail when getting an RWC.
I would ask around at more mechanics about this, or just ask friends what mechanics are more lenient with RWC.
There is 1 round here (NSW), friend of mine went to 1 mechanic, they said $400 repair required before RWC . Then he went to 1 he knows as more lenient, passed straight away no worries. I now go to the same place for RWC, he does check things, and is strict on things like tyres, as he knows it is a major safety thing and doesn't want to see anyone hurt.
If you go over a speed bump there is a chance the lights will go off.
Another option, when light goes off, take it straight to mechanics for RWC then, while light is off.
no ones gonna touch your car without a RWC