This was posted 6 years 1 month 27 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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Torque Wrench $29.99, Enduroshield $9.99 @ ALDI (Starts 6/10)

950

Torque Wrench ½" $29.99

  • 12.7mm (½") torque wrench with automatic quick release
  • Includes 17, 19 and 21mm sockets and 125mm extension bar
  • Heavy duty case for safe storage
  • Working range: 28-210Nm (measuring tolerance)

Enduroshield Windscreen Treatment $9.99

EnduroShield® uses state-of-the-art nanotechnology to transform automotive glass into a high performance, ultra-long lasting rain repellent surface. This non-stick invisible coating turns the rainwater into beads, which are easily swept away, ensuring clearer vision in wet weather driving.

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  • +6

    Bought the enduroshield in a past sale - can confirm it works pretty well after application, lasts at least a few months (3-4?) from memory. Not sure if it's worth the price/effort, but definitely effective.

    • Good for the glass shower screen you reckon?

      • +4

        No idea, I haven't tried - but no reason it shouldn't work. Heck it might last even longer since you don't use wipers on your shower screen.

      • +2

        Yes, brilliant for a shower screen

        Spend a bit of time and do it right and you won't have to squeegee your shower screen for a good few months

        • Excellent, I'm a bit tired of squeegeeing every time.

    • Is it just denatured alcohol?

      • +2

        Nope denatured alcohol (or alcohol of any kind) is a nice solvent and de-greaser and therefore a works well as a glass cleaner but it doesn't leave a water repellent film like this product.

        • -2

          Rain-x is denatured alcohols and is sold as a rain repellent

          • +2

            @Yamai:

            Rain-X's primary active ingredient are polysiloxanes, the primary one being hydroxy-terminated polydimethylsiloxane.

            https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rain-X

            • -1

              @abb: So it's basically a very thin coating of caulking silicone. So if I went out and bought some bathroom silicone and alcohol, I could have a lifetime supply for < $10…

      • +2

        Can confirm it is not just denatured alcohol haha. It leaves behind a (very) thin layer of some kind.

      • -1

        No. I think it has ether in it

    • Have you tried using it on other parts of the car to repel dirt/mud etc? Curious to know if this makes washing cars easier.

      • Actually haven't. I've got a bottle of some ceramic coating that I haven't gotten around to applying yet, that's supposed to help with the rest of the car.

      • +1

        I use a product called Gyeon Wetcoat, makes water bead like crazy similar to what enduroshield does. Definitely makes the regular wash easier, water just sheets off.

        • @fulltimepanda:
          It seems like a great product after checking Youtube videos. Where can you get the best deal?

          • +1

            @BuyNow Think Later: The generic name is ceramic coating, theres a TONNE on the market now. The biggest part of those products isn't the application, its preparing the car (wash + claybar + DA polish in most cases) then you use a small sponge and/or cloth to apply the coating.

          • @BuyNow Think Later: I get mine from carcareproducts, they've got a few showrooms around. 500ml bottle for $21 and a bottle usually does me 4-5 coats and a coat lasts me about 2 months. Super easy application too, spray on and power wash off. Love the stuff.

        • Thanks mate will give it a try!

  • +2

    Thank nocure. Do you know what other tools will be on sale?

    • +38

      I did a quick scan for ya. Imgur album

      Edit: there's also some furniture and stuff that goes on sale on October 3rd. If anyone wants that scanned, let me know.

      • +1

        Thanks Mate, you are a champion. I am sorry I only have one upvote to give you.

        • +1

          All good mate, I've got an awesome pair of TaoTronics headphones thanks to you!

        • +1

          @ringostingo: Excellent, I am very glad you are happy with them.

          Any problems, feel free to message me.

      • +1

        What a legend :) Good on ya ringostingo.

      • Uhh furniture, yes please!

        Very curious to know if it includes a certain chair my wife is after!

        • Which chair?

          • @nocure: The infamous rocking chair! 🤦‍♂️

        • +3
          • +1

            @ringostingo: Thank you kindly!

            Not the chair she is chasing but the coffee table gets a good nod! Cheers!

  • +3

    I'm a little skeptical about cheap torque wrenches.

    Had a similar looking one about 20 years ago that was nowhere near being accurate.

    • It is very very easy to check accuracy

      Google and you will find

      • +5

        Exactly, it's so easy to check the calibration and adjust.

        Lock the square drive in a vice with the arm out horizontally.

        Eg for 20ftlb you need a 20lb weight 1 foot from the square drive to click the ratchet or 10lb 2 foot away or 5lb 4 feet away or any combination.

        Repeat for other torque settings.

        Loosen the lock nut on the base and adjust the screw to calibrate.

        The torque wrench should be accurate between 20%-80% of its range. The extremes not so much.

        Most important thing is always completely loosen the torque adjustment after use. If you leave it wound up, the internal spring can permanently go out of specification meaning the wrench will be uncalibratable for accuracy in the 20-80% range

        • Thanks mate, that's all great advice. Didn't know you had to loose the adjuster afterwards as well.

        • My torque wrench was within 4%, with actual details of the testing.

  • +1

    I bought two a couple of years ago when they used to be $19.99. Not bad and still going…

  • -4

    The torque wrench isn't that good, and better to get a better version. Setting it a job in itself, and isn't that accurate.

    • +2

      who told you they're not accurate? I have two of those and they're easy to set. Even had them tested and they're pretty spot on.

    • I bought this last year and haven't had a problem with it. Can't comment on how accurate it is as never compared to any other torque wrench. Setting is a breeze. Why specifically is yours difficult to set and how did you test accuracy?

      • +6

        I work in Mercedes Benz dealership. Pre delivery department uses 700$ snap on torque wrench and I personally compared mine to the expensive one and it was spot on. We even had guys from snap on testing them (most people from Pre delivery bought at least one from Aldi) and the result was they're very accurate.

        • @Ritchma Not sure if you are replying to me or continuing on with your reply to Rumbaar. My reply about setting and accuracy was directed at Rumbaar, just to clarify.

          Good to know that you compared to Snap On and found they were accurate.

        • Sorry. Both my comments were meant for Rumbaar

    • Keep in mind, these things need to be serviced and treated with care to be accurate. Yes, serviced and calibrated by a professional depending on how much you use it.

      • +1

        They probably come out of the factory accurate so it'll be cheaper to buy one every time Aldi brings them out yearly rather than get it serviced!

      • +1

        Serviced? Calibrated by a professional?

        Oil, filter and 28 point safety check?

        Please.

        Just check the accuracy yourself and adjust if necessary.

        More expensive ones really are nicer to use and hold but to just torque up a fastener, there's nothing wrong with these cheap ones.

        Keep them clean and grit out of the wrench and it'll last a lifetime.

    • Hard to set ?
      on what planet ?

  • +1

    had mine for 5ish years, still rock solid! grabbing another this time!

  • For those into heavy metal beware there is no ft lb scale on the wrench

    • What about joules per radian?

    • Oh that sucks, most car stuff I deal with is measured in ft lb

      • ft-lb / 0.73756 = Nm

  • +8

    I'm happy to check the calibration/accuracy of anyone in Sydney who buys this torque wrench. My forearm is calibrated to feels-about-right-Nm.

    • ^ This!

      I've been on the tools for a few decades now, and I've never had an issue with incorrect torque settings. I get that things need to be specified, but I honestly reckon that's to cater for the lowest common denominator… people who don't have the commonsense to fasten things correctly (not over or under tightened). "Feels about right" has never failed me, but maybe I guess some people have trouble learning what that actually feels like?

      • +1

        The thing is, "feels about right" feels quite a bit different depending on if you're talking about 10Nm or 200Nm.

        The rocker / valve cover bolts on my old Nissan have a specified torque between 7Nm and 11Nm. When I do them up that tight, it almost feels like they'd undo if a strong wind blew on them. I'd do them way tighter than that if I was just relying on feel.

        Then there are engine mount bolts where you get them tight to the point where it feels that they're about to shear off, then you stick a torque wrench on it and get another 1/4 of a turn out of the fastener before it gets as tight as it should be.

        There's only one way to find out how good the "click" in your elbow is, and that's to put an actual torque wrench on a fastener after you've got it as tight as you think is good and see how close you are to the spec.

        There will always be a tolerance where the fastener will be OK if it's not torqued close to spec, but if you've just replaced a head gasket and are installing new "torque to yield" bolts then I think you want things to be as close as possible to the engineering specifications.

        • I agree mate, that's completely different and you're 100% right.
          Rocker covers etc. definitely have a very tight tolerance… and when working with a low margin of error like that (there's no way a human could feel the difference between 7 and 11Nm), a torque wrench isn't just useful its mandatory.

          I have a torque wrench myself, but I can't for the life of me remember the last time I used it (I've never rebuilt an engine).

          I was referring moreso to other uses with more scope for a little error (but where torque specs are quoted, like spark plugs etc), where most people reading here would be at.

          If you're rebuilding engines, a torque wrench would be part of a much more specialised tool set required (pullers etc).
          But yeah, 100% agree with everything you said.

          • @UFO: No worries, I see where you're coming from.

            My method with spark plugs is generally finger tight plus another quarter turn with a socket. That's generally enough to crush the little washer that most have where the plug contacts the head. Any more than half a turn beyond finger tight and you're asking for trouble, especially in an aluminium head.

            Oh, and always coat the threads with anti-seize compound. Dealing with galvanic corrosion is not fun.

  • +1

    Torque wrench looks pretty good. 19mm and 21mm sockets are sizes you don't get in a standard consumer grade socket wrench kit either which is a bonus.

    It would be great if they also did a 1/4" or 3/8" drive version that covered a lower torque range (say from 5-50Nm). 28Nm at the lowest end isn't super tight but if you're working on smaller engines or torquing things like valve / rocker cover bolts on cars it's not really suitable. 210Nm is way beyond what most people will need to torque to. Wheel nuts are usually around 100Nm or so. 210Nm is like the central lock nut of a wheel hub tight.

    • I bought one a few years ago and use it just for wheel nuts

      If you are doing small measurements you apwould be far better to spend the money on a decent unit as small measurements are when you really want that accuracy

      • Just rattle the wheel nuts on, they won't come off.

        Only if you work for a big name tyre shop, otherwise use a torque wrench.

        • Why stop at rattling the wheel nuts on? I swapped a donor transmission into my ute the other day and I swear the drain plug on the donor unit was torqued over 100Nm. Took my whole weight on a 1m long 3/4" drive breaker bar to get it loose. Recommended torque in the FSM for the plug is 25-35Nm.

          • @Pantagonist: I'm a bit intrigued, I have the same problem - I've done many engine and tranny swaps in my time as well and am convinced they quadruple their torque by the time they get to me. Don't know how but they do.

            • @bm: It's because the "mechanics" that service them at your average shop are pushed for time and don't do things properly.

              The air impact gets used to tighten everything up because it's quicker than doing things properly by hand. Things either get done up too tightly or get cross threaded in the rush.

              • @Pantagonist: Surely the reason most gearbox/xfer case/diff drain plugs are so tight is some metalurgical reaction over a few years instead of a teenage apprentice rattling them in at the dealership.

                • @bm: I guess I just look at the threads after I get the drain plugs out and judge from there. In most cases there's no evidence of corrosion or any reaction that's taken place and the threads are as clean as a whistle.

                  In fact, a drain plug is probably at an advantage over most other fasteners on an engine as it's constantly immersed in oil or transmission fluid that will ward off any corrosion.

                  Often drain plugs need a sealant applied to the threads to prevent leaks if you refer to the FSM. Much of the time there's little evidence of any on the threads when you pull one out, which probably means that it frequently gets omitted when the fluid is changed. The plug then leaks and then gets screwed in tighter and tighter until the leak stops. That's my theory anyway.

      • I have an AC Delco digital unit that I use for pretty much everything which has a range from 0-200Nm. It's just a bit too bulky to get into smaller spaces so I wouldn't mind having access to a few lower profile analog wrenches.

  • So, what do people likely use their torque wrenches for? I've been wanting one, I guess just to sort of have one, for a while now, and I'm not sure if I'd ever use the thing. :/

    Also, does anybody know what the work socks and the 20M retractable hose reel is like? The 3 pack of work socks for $5.99 seems like a half decent price, and $50 for the hose reel seems pretty good too.

    • +1

      Torquing lug nuts and spark plugs

      • This might be OK for spark plugs that have an 18mm thread (not many do). For anything smaller than that the torque range on this wrench won't cover the values that you need.

        • Spark plugs often are hand tight + a quarter turn for the crush washer

          Says on the box when you buy em

          • @J5: Yep, I mentioned that in another post. Good rule of thumb.

            Suggested extra turn after finger tight tends to vary between 1/8 and 1/3 of a turn depending on the thread gauge / sealing type but never seems to be more than 1/2.

    • +1

      Wheel nuts is my main use as I rotate my own tyres. At other times, used for other bolts that needs to be torqued (sump, diff).

      • Torque for sump plugs is usually only with a new crush washer

        But tbh have never used a torque wrench on a sump plug nor ever replaced a crush washer

        • The bolts holding the sump

          • @lomie: Yes of course I forgot that average joe is removing the sump and doesn’t know what 10nm is for a sump gasket is equal to

    • +2

      If you do pretty much anything on a car (meaning taking off a tyre is part of the job) it is handy. If you don't then don't bother IMO.

    • +1

      I recently replace the clutch and flywheel in my X-Trail. I have use the aldi torque wrench for every bolt putting it all back together!

      • I don’t know how you folks know how to do all this stuff. Really impressive to be able to do that. Do you have like a pitt, or do you just jack up your car?

        • +1

          I wish I had a pit or hydraulic lift. Most of the time it's crawling around on the ground using jack stands or ramps.

          It's probably worth noting that working under a car that's only supported by a jack is pretty dangerous, so please don't do it.

          • @Pantagonist: Ah, ok. Might just keep getting the family mech to handle it then methinks. Thanks for advice :)

        • +1

          I actually managed to do it all on jack stands. I'm pretty proud of it myself! Cars are just a big jigsaw puzzle really. If you're mechanically minded they just kind of make sense.

    • Thanks heaps for all the replies folks :)

      I really would like to learn how to do more on my car, but I really know next to nothing about vehicles. :/

      But I appreciate all the advice.

  • What is the length of the torgue bar? Can this be used for changing tyres?

    • Yes. main purpose I would assume for most users here

  • +1

    Enduroshield better than Rain-X?

  • Have they got that trolley jack back for sale. Been waiting on that for awhile now

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