Upgrading Ram - DDR3 SDRAM Compatibility?

SaberX on 28/06/2018 - 23:01
Last edited 28/06/2018 - 23:02

Hi all,

Have an old Asus N53SV-SX581V laptop - conveniently purchased via an ozbargain post here back circa 2011.

I was trying to work out how best to eek out some additional performance as it's getting slower over the years - I believe it needs a reset to factory setting windows, but have been lazy. So in the meantime I was hoping to bump up the 8GB ram to 12gb or 16gb perhaps? (On another note - I did think of a SSD upgrade, but how can I 'duplicate' my built in hard drive, as all my factory 'restore windows' is on there? Can one easily have this windows installation partition and your licensing all transfer across to a new SSD? It all seems abit difficult for an uneducated user as myself)

The problem is back when I tried to also bump up an old first generation or so of the 'netbooks' with atom processors that came out many moons ago, all the store bought ram (2gb) would result in the netbook not powering on at all. It wasn't until a kind ozb netizen delivered old unwanted ram that I swapped out the 1GB and the 2GB started working. I don't understand why - the 'type' of ram, the Mhz etc were all right? So i am abit concerned about how to ensure purchased RAM works.

Now back then I could return the RAM to austin computers and PLE etc. as they weren't compatible. But for my laptop i need I believe DDR 3 1333mhz ram , and the stores don't sell this. Crucial's website with the memory check recommends 1666mhz DDR3L, but again given my problem with identical ram not working for the netbook I am worried with this laptop of purchasing a new form of DDR3L (let along 1666 mhz speed) even though they claim it is all backwards compatible.

Speccy confirms that indeed I have 4 memory slots and 2 are taken (2 x 4gb):
RAM 8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24)

Ebay seems my only choice but again I am worried about a ram not 'working' if i add it in. I was thinking of adding in 4GB to compliment the 2 x 4GB. Or must they work in pairs? Any hard and fast rules to ensure i dont order and end up with one that wont work with my laptop?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kingston-4GB-DDR3-1333MHz-PC3-10…

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hynix-4GB-PC3-10600R-2RX4-1333MH…

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Crucial-4GB-4G-2RX8-PC3-10600S-D…

Would all 3 of those work? The hynix is alot cheaper? Any suggestions?

Otherwise if I am second time lucky is there again any Perth based Ozb's with an unused DDR3 sdram that will eventually be scrapped given how old the tech is, that would be willing to donate it? I do admit I probably will need to get new laptops soon but pretty comfortable with this one working since 2011. Touchwood a part doesnt fry soon.

Computing

Comments

  • scrimshaw on 28/06/2018 - 23:08
    +6

    Do the SSD upgrade first. Then upgrade the RAM later if you have enough left in your budget, but I don't think you should.

    Most people's usage patterns do not require them to have more than 8GB of RAM… including myself, and I usually run Firefox + Chrome + IE all at the same time with at least a dozen tabs open to check deals (Plus Slack in the background as well)

    If you're buying a Samsung or Crucial SSD, they usually come with some sort of software or utility that makes it easy for newbies to migrate their stuff to a new drive.

    You'll also want to buy a hard drive enclosure — it'll make it possible for you to connect the SSD to your USB port and do the transfer that way. It's much simpler than it sounds.

    A fresh Windows reinstall will also iron out any kinks that you might have with your current system. Use Ninite to speed up application installs afterwards.

    • altomic on 29/06/2018 - 00:09
      +3

      or remove the optical drive and install the SDD where the optical drive was using one of these caddys from aliexpress for US $2.15 delivered.

      then , as scrimshaw says, fresh install win on the SSD.

      i just put a SSD as a primary drive in an old dell dual core desktop. the machine boots in 10 seconds.

  • Richardc on 29/06/2018 - 00:03
    +2

    8gb should be already enough, get a ssd and a caddy, replace the disc drive https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnvDYLQhPHA , you should be able to use software to copy your system to the ssd with ssd manufacture's software. you might need to swap both drive so your laptop will boot with the ssd, and you end up with ssd for system and hdd for storage, also if you're on windows 10, you should be able to reset the system and keeping your file.

  • misu p on 29/06/2018 - 07:48
    +3

    I triple down on what the people above me said, 8GB is enough, an SSD will make your laptop run better than new. It is by far the upgrade that will give you the most bang for your buck. Probably your windows license is OEM, but because you may install windows on the same laptop again it should work without any issues. If you want to move the Windows install (and because you do not sound quite techie enough to use a clonezille live USB drive (few people are)) do what scrimshaw suggest but I would get something like this instead http://www.msy.com.au/peripherals/17726-orico-6629us3-c-25-3… .You may need to use this on the second laptop / desktop as (at least back in my days) cloning something while windows is running on it was not supported.

  • alvian on 29/06/2018 - 08:58
    +1

    There is a little known RAM compatibility parameter that you haven't mentioned. High vs Low Density RAM. Many mainboards using Intel chipsets do not recognise high density RAMs.

    Here was someone from Kingston Technical Support talking about it, and sbc_memory has a more in-depth discussion about it on eBay.

    Software such as Easeus Partition Master Professional has one-click disk cloning function.

  • Ryballs on 29/06/2018 - 11:48

    Having more than 8GB RAM is unlikely to increase your performance.

    I think you'd just be wasting your money putting 16GB RAM in a 2011 laptop.

  • bigticket on 29/06/2018 - 14:11

    Forget upgrading RAM. Upgrade SSD.
    Several options.

    1. Clone your existing HD to SSD. Result: not a clean install, tons of ASUS bloatware

    2. Restore laptop to factory defaults (think its F9 on bootup), install all your software, if all ok then clone.
      Clean install but still tons of ASUS bloatware.
      Recommend you do step 1. first in case restore process fails. Still have a running laptop with SSD.

    3. New windows install. (Must have original MS product key sticker on the base of the computer.)
      Use a program called Double Driver to backup your device drivers. Save to external flash/drive. Will save you 1 hour plus downloading and installing drivers from the internet.
      Download original exact version windows installation, in your case probably W7 x64 that the sticker product key specifies. Burn ISO to disk. Install SSD to laptop, install windows from disk in optical drive and activate using product key on the base of the computer.
      Run Double Double driver and restore your drivers. Install all your software.
      Clean windows install without ASUS bloatware. Recommended.

    4. If you have upgraded to windows install to W8 or W10 use step one.

    Your existing HD can be stored in a safe place as a backup. I also recommend imaging your install as an additional back up.

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