What's The Best Price That I Could Get for a Mazda CX9 Sport FWD

SwTester on 28/04/2018 - 21:43

Okay, after test driving Kluger, Santa Fe and CX9 we have come to a consensus that will buy CX9 Sport FWD. The dealer with whom we were discussing had mentioned that he can work out at 46k for us. We were not convinced and are asking him to come down to 41k. While the gap is too big according to him - he has mentioned that if I could get him a quote from any dealer cheaper than what he has already quoted he will beat that to retain me as his customer. Now I am off to my favourite people of OZ Bargainers seeking advice as to..

  1. What would be the best price you've bought the car for recently?
  2. If any of you would know any dealer who can give us a better price than what he has given.

Any pointers will help.

Automotive Car Mazda

Comments

  • spackbace on 28/04/2018 - 22:39
    +1

    Where'd your $41k figure come from?

    Or would you prefer a 2017 model with 10,000kms?

    $45,490 is the cheapest new one advertised in the country. So actually the salesman is probably just about dead on.

    There's negotiating and then there's ridiculous.

    • [Deactivated] on 28/04/2018 - 23:33

      This ^^^^

      Match the cheapest advertised price in the country and negotiate free window tint, mats, full tank of fuel etc

    • enigma48 on 29/04/2018 - 00:19
      +1

      Go talk to a few novated leasing companies - they argue they can get better pricing since they buy large number of vehicles, go tell them you've been offered $45k and you want $43k ($41k might be pushing it). The novated lease companies get something like a $400-2000 'finders fee'. Take their best price and tell the dealership if they give you the finders fee (so take 1-2% off the price) you'll buy.

      I got lucky: one of the novated lease companies offered a 'easter sale' deal that was 5% better than I'd negotiated. I tried three places: no one except my local dealership offered to match the price (are you sure it's auto? 2018? not a demo?) so it must have been decent. Your local dealerships gets a kind of bonus for selling to locals (i.e. not screwing over other, distant dealerships) so deal with them after haggling with a few other places.

      If I followed the advice given above (which sounds reasonable) I'd have paid 10% more than I did ($25,490 vs $23,300). That being said, don't assume you'll get 10% off list - I think I got fairly lucky.

      Markup on the car is very low so there isn't much room to move on price there (dealerships make money on finance, extended warranty, add-ons, etc). Window tint, scuff plates, roof racks etc all have 100-300% markup and are much easier to include for free if you care about them.

      A friend also had a tip: never accept their best/final offer. Hesitate, say you'll consider it, and say you'll think about it for the next couple days (make sure they have your number). She got a call back on day 3 with the price she'd asked for. I think they needed it for their end-of-month bonus (also the best time to haggle, just make sure you're ready to put a deposit down right then and know what you want to do for finance.

      • spackbace on 29/04/2018 - 00:26

        Fleet price vs retail price at the end of the day, depends what the local dealer wants to do.

        We (retail) matched a fleet quote recently just because it was a local buyer and it was an extra number. Zero money left in the deal though, pure love job.

        But it's a case by case basis. Many department managers will be very hesitant to sign off skinny or negative deals.

        • enigma48 on 29/04/2018 - 00:35

          Agreed - no guarantees here. But every dealership I talked to matched the fleet pricing I had. (then went lower once one dealership offered a clearance price on a specific colour)

          Be reasonable but very assertive. They'd convinced me that -5% was the absolute best they could do, they were doing me a favour since I'm local, etc. I tried to sign but couldn't get there that day - then I got the ad with the clearance price and saved myself another $1000.

      • SwTester on 29/04/2018 - 20:55

        @enigma48 thank you your advise is very valuable. Will see how I go. Yes mine is auto FWD sport and it’s not a demo.

  • ShannonN on 29/04/2018 - 00:09
    +1

    Tell him it was your baby's 2nd birthday this week and your buying it for them as a present and reckon you should get a birthday discount

    • SwTester on 29/04/2018 - 20:53

      Actually his bday is coming up. Good idea.

  • [Deactivated] on 29/04/2018 - 00:21

    You do not want a front wheel drive SUV that large. It has a long wheel base, reasonable power, and a high centre of gravity. That might seem fine 90% of the time, but the second you actually get in trouble, that thing will be an understeering mobile coffin. It's a combination built for disaster. I'm not a fan of FWD cars in general, but add high CG and a long wheel base, and it's just dangerous. Passive safety is just as important as active safety, if not more.

    • spackbace on 29/04/2018 - 00:24

      I'd have to agree. Having driven a FWD Kluger and an AWD, the AWD is so much more planted. FWD did suffer from torque steer, despite the size/weight

      • [Deactivated] on 29/04/2018 - 00:46

        Size and weight have no bearing on torque steer at all. Torque steer is the car spinning its inside wheel when turning. You can't get rid of it (or get rid of most of it) on a FWD car without a trick diff, which the Kluger doesn't have. Traction control mitigates it, but it also kills power to the outside wheel. I believe you are talking about understeer, which is affected by size and weight. A Kluger 100% does have understeer, you just weren't driving it hard enough. (That being said, most cars have understeer, but a large FWD car has unpredictable understeer).

        • spackbace on 29/04/2018 - 00:51
          +1

          Nope was torque steer, too much power when accelerating from a complete stop, particularly with the wheels slightly turned.
          Noticeable in a FWD, not in the AWD.

          Used to own a Verada, well aware of torque steer 😂

        • [Deactivated] on 29/04/2018 - 00:55

          @Spackbace: I can guarantee that if you turn the TC off a Kluger would be torque steer city.

        • spackbace on 29/04/2018 - 00:57
          +1

          @Burnertoasty:

          Definitely, that's why it stays on :P

          I remember having unpredictable fun in an HSV Astra VXR in winter. That was the definition of torque steer.

          Side note, I know you wouldn't care about the car but the new Camry really doesn't feel like a FWD in that sense. When taking off and cornering at speed. Again, this is coming from someone who drove a Verada for like 5yrs

        • [Deactivated] on 29/04/2018 - 01:05
          -1

          @Spackbace: There's 20 years between a Verada and a new Camry. You'd expect it. Really though, Toyota sell one good car, and it costs $130k. Anything else is inferior to other (admittedly more expensive) makes.

        • [Deactivated] on 29/04/2018 - 02:33

          @Burnertoasty:

          Landcruiser Sahara?

        • [Deactivated] on 29/04/2018 - 10:06

          @TightBottom: That’s the one

        • [Deactivated] on 29/04/2018 - 10:10

          @Burnertoasty:

          They hold their value too. Damn

  • whooah1979 on 29/04/2018 - 05:31

    Get ready for the SUV/ute/4wd haters telling you that you don't need it and that you should purchase a hatchback instead. Resist their cries.

  • [Deactivated] on 29/04/2018 - 10:11

    I think you should purchase a hatchback

  • youknow on 12/09/2018 - 00:01

    Old thread I know, but how did you go with your negotiations?

  • mcx9 on 13/10/2019 - 13:19

    No recent comments on this thread..

    I am looking to buy Mazda CX9 Sport FWD.. heard there is usually 10-15% discount… Could you guys please share best price.. it will help us to save some money

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