Used Car Buying Guide - VIC v0.3

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  [Deactivated] on 10/03/2018 - 17:44

  +1

  That's a comprehensive list.

  Service via manufacturer?

  Or a reputable service centre / mechanic

  Has RWC?

  I find a lot of variations here. Some sellers don't want to do it and some don't realise they even need to do it.

  • 

    kehuehue on 10/03/2018 - 17:55

    Added the service part.

    As for RWC, arent they required by law to provide? Either way I will ask if they will or not, and consider the costs accordingly.

    • 

      [Deactivated] on 10/03/2018 - 17:56

      +1

      Yes they are or sell the car without registration. Just clarify that they will get the RWC and is included in final agreed price.

      • 

        kehuehue on 10/03/2018 - 17:58

        Thanks, yep will include it as part of negotiations.

• 

  spackbace on 10/03/2018 - 17:56

  +1

  Question, is this for a $5k car or a $50k car?

  • 

    kehuehue on 10/03/2018 - 17:56

    ~10k (so anywhere between 5k - 15k)

    • 

      spackbace on 10/03/2018 - 17:57

      What sort of car?

      • 

        kehuehue on 10/03/2018 - 17:57

        SUV for personal use

      • 

        spackbace on 10/03/2018 - 17:58

        @kehuehue:

        $10k SUV? Well you're gonna have to let it have some faults…

      • 

        kehuehue on 10/03/2018 - 17:59

        @Spackbace:

        its a 10yr old car with 150k+ kms - i just want to see what overhead costs will be involved in the near future

      • 

        spackbace on 10/03/2018 - 18:01

        @kehuehue:

        i just want to see what overhead costs will be involved in the near future

        Do you have a crystal ball?

        You said it yourself, it's a 10yo car with 150k, you can't predict what it will need, no one can.

      • 

        kehuehue on 10/03/2018 - 18:05

        @Spackbace:

        true, whatever happens after the purchase, i cant predict. but any obvious signs of issues at the time of purchase need to be considered

      • 

        Kangal on 10/03/2018 - 22:54

        +1

        @kehuehue:

        Several years ago I was looking into a good quality used SUV at the best value.
        The reason for looking into one was to open the boot to seat a dog in the back, and drive to the bush for some hiking. Moving interstate, and into an apartment meant no dog and no SUV. However, all my research landed me on the Nissan X-Trail which seemed ahead of its competitors.

        Just get one that's somewhat new and relevant, hasn't been abused, and has the bells and whistles that you need.
        And be ready to pay extra to get one in a great condition. The KM's doesn't matter, but the state of the car does. Also the year manufactured (ie Variant) can matter, as some issues get ironed out or features get implemented better as the product evolves during manufacturing (and rarely for the worse).

        I would say the best deals to be had are from Private Sellers off gumtree… but it also has a high-er risk because the onus is on you to inspect the car well, do your research, and haggle for a lower price. It's not "easy", but with throwing some effort and time you generally can get a car for a lower price AND at a higher quality AND condition (it is a "buyer's market" afterall).

      • 

        kehuehue on 10/03/2018 - 22:56

        @Kangal:

        this ones a nissan too. looking all over the web for max kms they can go. and ive found only 222k. the one im getting is around 170k

      • 

        Kangal on 10/03/2018 - 23:01

        @kehuehue:
        I've seen some do 400,000Km's… they are built to handle, but aren't bulletproof.
        Like I said, it depends on the condition of the car, don't emphasise the KM's it has done.

        Unless it's like a 10yo car with a suspiciously low 40,000km on the dash.
        Just keep this knowledge as the buyer to yourself.
        And when you see a car that you like, and it has say, 200,000km you can use that point to perhaps knock quite a bit off the sale price. Buyers are usually wary of this, so you might get a steal. I know some +200,000km clocked cars which are actually better condition than 90,000km clocked cars. The log book is your friend.

• 

  [Deactivated] on 10/03/2018 - 17:58

  +1

  cold startup

  It doesn't take much to restart a warm engine. Make sure you specify you want to start the car from cold so don't start it prior to the inspection or even at first viewing if possible.

  Pop the bonnet and check that the engine block is cool (practice "common" sense here to prevent burns).

  • 

    [Deactivated] on 10/03/2018 - 17:59

    +2

    Agree but better to burn your hand than your wallet 😀

  • 

    kehuehue on 10/03/2018 - 18:00

    ill try my best, but this was a good point i found somewhere. the person lives in a rural area, so if I have to ask for a meetup, it might not be possible to observe a cold start ;/

    but for other cars within reach it should be a good check

• 

  singlemalt72 on 10/03/2018 - 20:29

  It is good to ask to see it for a test drive with a cold engine if possible.
  Starting an engine from cold may reveal more than a warm start (long crank time, smoke, misfiring)

• 

  shapers on 10/03/2018 - 21:15

  +1

  Here's a good checklist for a list of things to check. Probably CBF doing it all but its got some good ones in there
  (links to a pdf)

  • 

    kehuehue on 10/03/2018 - 22:24

    +1

    Thanks - ive started going through the youtube channels, and his video was on the top. Watched all 4 "episodes" and have also linked his PDF. Cheers

• 

  jd4free on 10/03/2018 - 21:58

  +1

  For a cheaper Car, My Cheap charlie version: not comprehensive but you get the idea:

  RULE 1: It is too good to be true, ??
  i,e a 20 y.o car with only 35,000Kms ( owned by a 23 y.o ??? How are the seats , steering wheel Dashboard, door handles, knobs, rubber seals, etc…..does it match what the speedo is telling you ? If you have a gut feeling something is wrong , then you most probably right.
  If your'e not sure, do the checks anyway if you plan to go ahead, you can even just call up the service centres and check speedo entries match

  RULE 2: If they say "trust me, I'm a good bloke !" or "I'm selling this for my brother", then be even more suspicious !
  Test drive WARNING…. Many insurance companies do not cover this !!!
  Test Drive Cold if Possible, in a quiet street, No radio, No distractions. Windows open, listen for unusual noises, U Turn full lock in both directions forward and reverse. listen for tapping, grinding, whining etc. Take note and discuss with Owner as they arise. Check if the owners response is valid.

  Check panel alignment, any uneven gaps in the panels. - Find something that is 100% correct, then find out if the owner is being honest and on par… e.g ASK if it was in a previous accident, or ask when the last professional oil change was, compare the response to see how they score.

  Check for previous rust or damage ( any signs of paint, dust marks or even left over tape on rubbers )
  Check underneath for rust, repairs, or leaks ( or any prev leaks or prev damage )
  Check the Aircon, heater, all accessories and all lights work.
  Check all fluids, if safe and OK with the Owner. in particular the water and Oil. If Oils are perfect, be suspicious of a brand new change.
  Are they trying to cover up something ?
  Check under the oil cap for history of contaminants / Water ( milky white ) Check dipstick for water, same with the Auto transmission dipstick.
  Check exhaust when cold, then again when hot ( at fast take off and after long idle ) nice if someone can follow your test run to confirm.

  Check if air bubbles coming out of radiator, tricky sometimes as this is normal on some models. ( CAUTION : Never remove cap if it is hot or you are advised not to do so) You can also check radiator pressure.
  Do a Compression check if OK with the owner, otherwise suggest a servo do it ( and NO, not his mate)

  ALSO….From what I have seen in the last 20 years, the Warranties are not worth the paper they are written on, trust me.

  Hope this helps people buying a cheaper vehicle, if you can't afford a motor, trans or Diff replacement, then best to get it checked out by a professional TOO, but let me tell you often they squirm their way out of it… so always check it out yourself, and dont be afraid to find out more.

  • 

    kehuehue on 10/03/2018 - 22:26

    Thank you!! I am re-creating the list to make it a bit more detailed, and your list definitely adds some content to it.

    Thinking of getting an OBD 2 scanner as well.

• 

  jhmtaylor on 11/03/2018 - 11:22

  Check for when the next major service is due. The 160K looks like it costs +/- $1000

• 

  theya on 11/03/2018 - 12:25

  Pretty darn comprehensive list you have there. But I'll add a couple of my own. If you want to be doing your own serving make sure there is some form of workshop manual available for the car, either free online or available for purchase

  Also check the model of the car over here australiancar.reviews
  They have a very comprehensive list of known and common faults with each car.

  Adding to your mechanical checks. Check underneath the engine/transmission for evidence of leaking oil, that's a no bueno.
  Also look behind the wheels at the control arms and look at the bushings there, they shouldn't be cracked or damaged, same with any of the rubber boots on the joints, on the suspension and with engine mounts.
  Check steering, make sure you try a turn with it fully locked.

  Wouldn't worry too much about tyres so long as they are wearing symmetrically. I've seen people not happy with mismatching tyres and whatnot but the reality is punctures happen and you can't expect people to replace perfectly good tyres if only 1 of them needs it, and the only thing not rotating tyres is hurting is their own wallet.

  If you can see through the wheels at the break pads make sure that they are also wearing symmetrically (left/right)

  Make sure to check under the oil cap and under the radiator cap.

  When driving it do also drive spiritdely try some hard accelerations. You wont often notice issues with spark plugs or coil packs until you put the engine under some load (e.g. accelerating up hill)

  Get an obd2 tool and check for error codes.

  Check it idles smoothly. Check that vin and rego match.

• 

  Baniya on 11/03/2018 - 12:40

  HonestJohn is a uk website which is comments on particular issues for each model. It’s handy to determine if your particular car make and model had any major faults.

  Also research Carsales.com to determine what a reasonable price is. If your car is on the cheapest end of the scale, then it could mean trouble.