What are people being quoted for Subaru Outback 2.5 Premium?
I’ve been told the following drive away including mats, matching front tints & rear sensors in Melbourne.
2018 model - 43.9k
2017 model - 41.3k
Two minds between Outback Premium & Mitsubishi Outlander Exceed. What are the best prices ppl have een quoted for these? Any other suggesstions?
2018 model has come out recently & carsales has just the rrp for those. I’ve been quoted 44k instead of 47.5 + Extras.
I’m keen on knowing if others have got better deals for 2018 or 17.
Your comment is pretty useless in terms of help given we’re on ozbargain by stating the obvious 1st step before even venturing into a dealership.
I’ve got 11% off rrp, keen to see if I can get a lower price & what other similar cars are being sold for after negotiating (not the rack rates!)
I haven't been quoted anything for the Subaru Outback 2.5 Premium, hope this helps.
Yes very helpfull indeed. Its ok, I’m not taking offense at the responses. I was hoping people would mention real haggled prices & hopefully there are genuine ones on thid forum instead of ppl trying to get attention/votes.
is there a reason for purchasing a new outback over a used one other than it being new? the style hasn't changed much.
I was biased towards 2018 because its got side & front camera & apple carplay & i intend to keep it for 5-8 yrs by then it’l b hard to resale one without it given technology progress . If they’d been around some time would happily buy a 2nd hand (all previous cars been 2nd hand), just that they’ve been released recently so all brand new/demo at most.
Don't forget that you could get a lightly used model for much cheaper/better value, and simply swap the Entertainment Unit for a third-party one that provides Android Auto support (and pass-through Apple CarPlay). Although you gotta factor in installation costs too.
It would probably be a better quality and cheaper too… but its bound to consume your time and effort, if you're willing
Both my work & wife’s give iphones :( so that negates the whole effort + mot sure if it’l void the warranty? But yes, cpupd be an option I guess.
I just got a 2017 yesterday 39990 no haggling
Hi Jenpat, I saw 39990 advertised for 2017 version by a nsw dealer & vic one was happy tp match it & I wanted rear sensors + windows tint matched & mats so he added cost brices for those add ons making it ~ 41.2 for it.
I felt it wasn’t good because on another forum on outback I read soneone got a 2017 premium with mats, front & rear sensors with 5 yrs warranty + 2 yrs free service for 39! That surprised me a fair bit, either that was a false price or I wasn’t negotiating hard enough & had more room to haggle. Did you get 5yrs & any free services thrown in on yours?
Still confused between 2017/18 versions & how much lower dealer can go for them. With march end being financial yr in Japan, I’m hoping they may have good deals to clear better.
With march end being financial yr in Japan
No, end of Japanese financial year is the end of Feb. Source - the dealership I work for is majority owned by a Japanese company and Wednesday is a big deal for us.
It has zero effect on your average dealership, unless they're Japanese owned. Just because they're selling a Japanese brand doesn't mean shit.
I wanted rear sensors + windows tint matched & mats so he added cost brices for those add ons making it ~ 41.2 for it.
Sensors - ~$400
Tint - ~$400
Mats - ~$100
= $900 cost prices, not $1200
Got quoted 550 fpr sensors. Said were genuine subaru. Plus the cargo tray which just saw I’d missed in the earlier post.
I asked a couple of other dealers to match the price and the answer was a flat no, couldn't get near the price. I suspect a false price or possibly a 2016 model (which one dealer offered me). I wouldn't worry too much about the tinting the back windows have privacy tint.
Yeah, sounded too good to be true for 2017 esp with 2 yrs service (Given their serv prices).
Did you buy yours in Melb?
No I am in regional NSW, purchased from Sydney and had it transported. Got the 5 year warranty
Two minds between Outback Premium & Mitsubishi Outlander Exceed. What are the best prices ppl have een quoted for these? Any other suggesstions?
Step 1 of the negotiating playbook - Be ready to buy! Don't be weak in your decision making skills and still need to decide on the car. Be ready!
It comes down to that to get the best deal. If you're not there, at the dealership, ready to shake hands or sign on the bottom line, your negotiating position is weak, and we know it. We won't push to do a better deal if you're not going to buy there and then.
So, work out exactly which model & accessories you want, then negotiate.
Fair point
Is it like a time wasting thing? As in you dont want to waste your time negotiating if you arent certain there is going to be an end result?
I can see myself in the near future being happy with probably any 1 of up to 4 models of car and just looking for the best value, and i probably will want to look around (until i get jack of the process) so this would be useful information for me (i may have a problematic position?).
Hi Jack
Certainly not time wasting. While spacknace does have some valod points, majority of us don’t work in car dealerships & one of the best if not the best way to a) finalise/shortlist 1-2 cars & know what room we have with haggling on net drive away is by visiting them.
To the sales rep it may be wasting their time as intent is to get sales on the spot asap & move on (hey, salesppl still get leads to follow up on & one that gives/matches best offer is getting the sale anyway) from buyers perspective, until we’ve visited a few diff companies, taken test drives & compared the cars, been through various negotiations, we never really know if we’ve got what we are after at the best possible price.
From a 47.5k + 2k on extras to bring it down to 43.9 is a decent 11% off rrp (which is imp given most cars dep significantly in the 1st yr). I def don’t think it’s been time wasting. Have spoken to 2 car brokers that charge to do this & both offered a higher price than above so worth it.
I meant from the dealer's perspective…
Ok lets put this into perspective.
There are more factors in play than a $1,000 difference (or so) between vehicles. Even straight away off OP's 2 choices - Outback & Outlander, you have a difference between 3 & 5yr warranties, fulltime AWD and 2WD (unless choosing the AWD Outlander), different servicing costs, and that's without going into feature differences, comfort, drive etc.
I can guarantee you that for the same or similar money, no 2 cars will be similar, unless you really don't give a shit about cars… which at $50k, you should.
So for a car that you'll own for 3years+ (some up to 10-15 years), you should give more of a shit about these factors than the minor price difference.
Not sure getting quotes on 2017-18 models of one car is ‘not giving a shit’.
I started this forum to get feedback on one simple thing - what are the best quotes they’ve recieved for outback premium 2017/2018.
Anything barring true negotiated prices (so more ppl are able to save) is a useless reply.
Why did you reply? I wasn't replying to you, I was replying to this question posed by jacross:
Is it like a time wasting thing? As in you dont want to waste your time negotiating if you arent certain there is going to be an end result?
Anything barring true negotiated prices (so more ppl are able to save) is a useless reply.
Right, so you'd rather someone just gave you the prices, rather than gave you the tools of how to be a better negotiator? Seriously?
Do you want someone to hold your hand while you go deal with the big, bad salespeople too?
Yes but thats my point. I may prefer car a to car b (or car package if you prefer), but that doesnt mean i should purchase car a.
The consideration is which provides greater utility: car package a, or car package b plus x, where x is the price differential.
But my CBA (and how much i care about cars) is my own. Im more interested in the mindset of you as the salesman. Whats your motovation for 'not fully negotiating' in the circumstances ive described? Is my hypothesis correct or is it something else?
Or is a willingness to genuinely buy a car, preclude my example from the scenario youre describing?
But my CBA (and how much i care about cars) is my own. Im more interested in the mindset of you as the salesman. Whats your motovation for 'not fully negotiating' in the circumstances ive described? Is my hypothesis correct or is it something else?
The thing is, what I'm talking about isn't down to just car negotiation, it's any negotiation or any business. The old-fashioned handshake is key. If you're prepared to shake on it, then and there, you get the best deal.
If you come in and go "what's your best price on this?" (a favourite among certain nationalities), you won't get our best price, simple. We're not gonna quote you what it owes, only for you to then go to every Tom, Dick & Harry around town and take our price elsewhere. Not to mention, our business revolves around profit & commission, we'd like to hold onto those if possible. Net result - price quoted is not the best, if a price is quoted at all (normally current sale price is quoted, and unless you're prepared to buy that day, we won't budge).
Now if you come in and go "right, I've decided on this, these accessories, and if you can do it for this, I'll buy today", then you stand a far greater chance, even if the offer is a loss deal. A contract will be drawn up at your offer, numbers crunched, decision made on the price. If we can't do it, we'll let you walk, but if it's close enough then it'll likely get signed off. Very occasionally, before it's written up, the offer will be shook on (some people are apprehensive about putting it in writing) - still a deal.
2 negotiating techniques, 1 getting the better deal, and better overall experience.
Now, how do you work out what's a fair and reasonable price to buy it for, well that's up to your research. Easy to find demo's listed on Carsales and work off that for the new car. Easy to look at demo prices at the dealership you're sitting in.
There's many fact-finding questions that form part of our conversations with you, which will determine how serious you are or not, and if you answer wrong then your position won't be strong.
How soon are you looking at buying? - You tell me 3-6 months, yeah we're not talking prices
Are there any other cars on the list? - Yes? Ok when are you looking at those? Oh next weekend? Ok lets not talk prices today, determine which you like best then we'll go from there.
And above all else, be honest with the salesperson, you might think you're fooling him but he saw the same act from 3 other customers that week. If you bring us false quotes, we'll know (and it happens quite often). Don't tell us X dealer quoted this for the car, and this for my trade. Just don't. The minute I tell you to go back there and buy, it's too good to be true, and then you ask "oh but what can you do?" shows you to be a liar, and it's rather amusing to us. In a modern world, you'd be surprised how honest we actually have to be… prices are there to see on websites, we can't go jacking them up, etc.
Go on carsales and similar sites. Enter the specs you want and hit search.
Then put the results in order of cheapest to expensive.
The cheapest is the amount you should be paying less than.