Should I DIY and put new drive/acc belts on my Toyota Echo to save $100? (note: not timing belt/chain)

FirstNameLastName on 13/09/2017 - 06:04

My Toyota Echo has a timing chain, which I won't touch..

It approaches 300,000kms and possibly the belts have never been switched.
(yeah they seem frail/worn/cracked eek!)

It requires two belts.. valued at $70.
Mechanic quoted $170 to supply/fit.

There are some youtube vids showing how to install them.
It seems mechanics just eyeball the tension, don't use a special tool to calibrate.
It seems only a few crude tools/elbow grease is needed to put the belts on.

I don't mind tinkering and have the tools.. $100 is worth a lot to me.
But is it quite easy to stuff this in such a way that it costs me big time (car stops on highway sorta thing)?

Have you diy'd this job?

ta for the advice

Automotive

Comments

  • Nugs on 13/09/2017 - 06:23
    +1

    normally a straight forward job

  • Euphemistic on 13/09/2017 - 07:12
    +1

    DIY. It shouldn't be too difficult.

  • dwillia on 13/09/2017 - 07:52
    +1

    yeah why not, do a youtube search. If you're handy with a spanner it should be easy.
    You just need to relieve the tension on the belt and slip off and back on again

  • doctordv8 on 13/09/2017 - 08:05
    +4

    Your only mistake is saying we just eyeball the tension. Wrong.
    There are measurements involved pending the with, construction, longest distance between 2 pulleys, and the particular fitment type. These details noted with years of experience determines the tension of a belt in each different situation.

    There are specifications and tools to test this, although many mechanics are knowledgeable and Experienced enough to do by feel and eyeing this measurement without tools or a belt flex gauge. (They were given away free by Gates I recall? earlier in here).

    BUT, it is a simple process, follow the guides, and use correct tools. The tensions should be slightly more taught than required by the book as as they will stretch and loosen up a bit so a re-tension will be required after a few K's.

    An experienced tradie will do this during installation, because they have the experience, and also, they will NOT over tension the belts either, causing premature belt shred or bearing failure.

    So yes you can do this, and if in any doubt during, or after, call a pro to check and help you out. Have a go.
    90% of the time, the she'll be right mate theory and practical will work…..for a while at least.

    • FirstNameLastName on 13/09/2017 - 09:23

      Yeah I suppose that's why the youtuber was eyeballing for tension.. looked like he was an experience mech in a pro workshop.

      I'll get my jack stands out and maybe get eyes on the situation.. see if I can reach bolts and access the loop easily.

      thanks for the detailed reply.. and to the others too

      • doctordv8 on 13/09/2017 - 14:10
        +2

        Just a note, you only need to loosen the pivot bolt, (the big one) and the lock and slide bolts. Don't take any bolts off, as you are creating extra work. Just loosen until you can thump the Alternator with your hand to remove/refit belts. A gentle levering with a bar to give the new belt tension is ok but not over tighten. Allow 5-10 mm deflection inwards over 250-300 pulley centers, with gentle but firm pressure.

        If the Alternator (V belt I think), and or the AC (multi rib belt - should be)unit (should your 2nd belt) has mechanical adjusters(Long captive bolt with a boss and bolt thru slider), again loosen the mount/pivot and slide and use the long adjusting bolt to do all the work for you. A 10, 12 & 14 should do everything on an Echo, although I have not done belts on them for a while.

        Multi rib belts need slightly less tension to start with as they stretch less when new, and do last much longer. V belts require more detailed care and more retensioning and still fail much earlier.

        Draw a mud map first noting direction or belt run, and always remember to put the rear most belt on first - that is closest to engine, not back of engine. OR bring it up to the Sunny Coast on a weekend, I could do with a few drinkies.

        • FirstNameLastName on 13/09/2017 - 21:28

          Your explanation works well alongside the youtube vid.. cheers.
          I had a look underneath and everything seems accessible enough.

          I've decided to attempt it, and have ordered the two multi-rib belts for $50.
          I'll also make a note of the current belt's tension.
          I suppose slight under-tension is better than over-tension.. as (if i assume correctly) only under-tension creates squeal.

          Thanks for the tips.
          I'll post how i go.. even if it's an embarrassing failure.

  • derweep on 13/09/2017 - 08:29
    +1

    Depending on the car, I thought the echo would have an auto tensioner. I have an 2002 corolla and it was easy to release the tension with a long spanner and a few tricky spots to loop the belt around. Look for a diagram andl it on, shouldnt be too hard. If it has an auto tensioner then not worth the 170 bucks, can do it yourself.

  • thetrain on 13/09/2017 - 09:29
    +1

    Does it require manual tensioning or is there an auto tensioner?

    If there are YouTube videos just follow those. Should be super easy!

    I put a new drive belt, auto tensioner and idler pulley on my car in under 45 minutes. If you're doing drive belt I recommend checking the idler pulleys at the same time since the belt will already be off.

    • FirstNameLastName on 14/09/2017 - 07:27

      This one requires manual tension i guess, you carefully place/use a pry-bar to create tension, then tighten the bolt.

  • k-rokfm on 13/09/2017 - 10:43
    +1

    $170 id just pay for it to be done

    • Euphemistic on 13/09/2017 - 12:42
      +1

      Please hand in your ozbargain licence.

      • k-rokfm on 13/09/2017 - 13:06
        +1

        Haha true, but am i saving money short term or long term when the car blows up cause i dont know what to do ;) Also if OP doesnt have the tools to get the job done

        • Euphemistic on 14/09/2017 - 09:39
          +1

          OP has tools and doesn't mind tinkering though - obviously different to yourself. I have not problems with DIY, but it is in my nature and I've been 'trained' well by my father in how to fix stuff.

          My car currently has most of the dash pulled apart while I install reverse camera, driving lights and repair a sensor switch on the gearbox. Wasn't much fun yesterday though at 35degree and no AC controls attached.

  • [Deactivated] on 13/09/2017 - 11:34
    +1

    Sounds like you are in need for money. Try Go Fund Me. You might get enough coin for a mechanic to do it.

  • JOCKz on 17/09/2017 - 11:04
    +1

    If you want to diy. The basic rule for belt tension is if you try to twist the belt, it shouldn't go more than half way. On the slack side. Not sure how the Echo is configured, but over tightening will either burn out a pully/damage belt. Under tighten will cause belt slip. If its on an alternator your car will die during a drive. It will die slowly.

    In the event of a car putting out. You loose power steering and brake assist (brake booster runs off engine vaccum). Not saying it will happen but be wary of it.

    • doctordv8 on 18/09/2017 - 10:50
      +1

      Just to clarify…..over tightening will damage the bearing of the Alt/PS/AC/WP/T/Idler or what ever the belt drives - not burn out anything.

      Under tightening will will burn out the belt/damage the pulley(rare) because of slip. A lost Alternator will not cause your car to die until the Battery runs below required ECU voltage, with is a few hours pending model.
      Putting out??? The rest I do not understand. You could loose Hydraulic PS but not Electric Power Steering. Brake assist loss???….it is the Vacuum booster doing the assist so no drama there also.

      You confused me, so maybe the OP will be confused too. Best get it correct for the untrained.

  • FirstNameLastName on 18/09/2017 - 13:17

    very much appreciate the advice from everyone.

    i got the belts today.. may try it today but I'm busy with a few things.

    for those interested the video I'm going off is https://youtu.be/5k4qWcXK8nU?t=43s
    Same engine as mine it seems (although different year/country).

  • FirstNameLastName on 19/09/2017 - 08:21

    went to do the job but hit a hurdle.
    my 1/2" 14mm socket (38mm long) is too long to get into/on one bolt.
    can't find a socket anywhere that is more shallow..

    i need a new socket set anyway so thinking I'll go get a 3/8".. the ratchet head and 14mm will hopefully be able to fit into tighter places. (or maybe a combo set if available)

  • FirstNameLastName on 19/09/2017 - 15:48

    job complete!

    It wasn't too hard at all.. just followed doctordv8s advice/dayco online manual/youtube vid.

    3/8" ratchet/14mm socket did solve the issue I mentioned.
    Had to use a breaker bar.

    Will check the tension again in a few ks.
    cheers all

    • doctordv8 on 20/09/2017 - 10:24
      +1

      Well done. In the trade we give the belts a few idle to full revs for a second or two with all accessories on, about 3-4 times to pre-stretch the belts. Yes I could of said earlier, but you need to learn the right/hard way first. So go for a blat for 50ish ks and check again when cool and safe. Strangely, replacement belts never last as long as the originals, so keep that in mind when they start to squeal. Cheers.

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