Car CV Boot Issues - Will it Pass Roadworthy?

inherentchoice on 03/07/2017 - 13:14
Last edited 03/07/2017 - 13:15

Looking to put up my old bomb for sale but it has a split in one of the outer CV boots.

The two inner CV boots appear intact, however it seems they're slightly leaking grease out the sides.

  1. Mechanic says it won't pass roadworthy (i.e. QLD safety certificate) with these issues, is that correct?
  2. Mechanic said it might cost $250 to fit two new inner boots and one outer,is that a fair price?
  3. Should I get it fixed or just sell unregistered?
  4. I heard that you can buy refurbished CV axles cheap and swap for the old ones, is that true? Where can I buy them and how much?
Automotive

Comments

  • hashtagbargain on 03/07/2017 - 13:57

    Have you checked here? https://www.lubemobile.com.au/car-repairs/cv-shaft/cv-boot.h…

    See if their quote is any better. Apparently, it is a straight forward fix: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLrGNU_t83Y

  • picklewizard on 03/07/2017 - 14:32

    Yes, it's a roadworthy issue.

    It's usually negligible in cost to replace vs repair a CV. A changeover shaft is $100 - $120 (in my experience, have done a couple myself.) Labour would be around that much again, probably. I'd budget a max of $250, beyond that you're being taken for a ride. That price should include reconditioned shafts, not just boots.

    You might be able to do the repair yourself (depends on mechanical knowledge and tools.) You'll need a huge breaker bar and a massive socket to suit the nut at the end of the CV, and you'll need to be mindful of losing a gearbox-full of oil when the joint is removed. You won't be able to do the boots yourself; you'll need the reconditioned shafts with fresh boots fitted.

    Hope that helps!

    • [Deactivated] on 03/07/2017 - 14:44
      -3

      Also note; Shafts can't be 'reconditioned', if they are worn, they are worn. Just get new, cost difference usually not enough to outweigh risk.

      • picklewizard on 03/07/2017 - 15:04
        -1

        Very much false info you're spreading there. The CV joint gets worn, the shafts are shafts and will usually just be cleaned up and repainted.

        • [Deactivated] on 03/07/2017 - 15:33
          -3

          Using your terminology, why would the OP just change over the 'shaft' then? To quote you "A changeover shaft is $100 - $120".

          At no point did you mention anything about a CV joint in your first post.

        • picklewizard on 03/07/2017 - 16:07
          +2

          @faceman54: Buddy I don't think you're familiar with the terminology being used here; a 'drive shaft' is a physical shaft attached to a couple of CV joints.

          I appreciate you're trying to help but you don't really know what you're talking about and are just confusing the issue.

          Also, please don't neg my helpful comment that actually contains useful, helpful information.

    • inherentchoice on 03/07/2017 - 14:48

      Thanks for your reply. If I tried a DIY would I need to top up the gearbox oil after? What oil is it exactly? And if it might be possible to do a DIY job with reconditioned shafts, why would I not be able to do the boots?

      • picklewizard on 03/07/2017 - 15:08
        +1

        Boots require the shaft to be disassembled, or special tools to stretch the boot over the shaft that are impractical for the home mechanic to buy.

        Ideally you'd drain the box first and refill with the same fluid after, being careful to use a clean container. If auto, avoid replacing any gearbox oil with fresh stuff; this can actually create shifting issues on a worn / poorly maintained box.

      • supnigs super skids on 03/07/2017 - 17:01

        Don't diy if you don't have tools. It's hard to undo/twist off some nuts without the car lift by hand. This is especially the case for the wheel hub. If u had air tools it's easy. Also sometimes it's hard to take out the whole inner cv joint from the trans

      • bobbified on 03/07/2017 - 19:05

        Just by you asking these questions, I don't think it's something you should try to attempt to do yourself.

  • ShirokaZe on 03/07/2017 - 14:37
    1. Yes that's correct, unless you go get a dodgy.
    2. $250 doesn't seem too far off, basically the cost of a couple of hours labour depending on the shop's rate.
    3. Depends on how much the entire car is worth. You may be offered significantly less for it unregistered.
    4. Around $100-150 to refurb a pair of shafts. Depends on the car whether there will be swap over options, but then you would have the cost of install on top if you can't DIY.
  • [Deactivated] on 03/07/2017 - 14:42
    -3

    There's more to it than just replacing the rubber boot. You are paying the mechanic for his professional opinion who will understand any other problems in that area. Yes, you can buy a boot for about $30, but if you dont know what you are doing/experience/tools then its definitely a job for a mechanic.

    If you are asking questions such as above on here, then you definitely dont want to be under a car replacing such components.

    The cost between new and old will be minimal, just get the new.

    Get the mechanic to do it for you.

    • inherentchoice on 03/07/2017 - 15:16

      You are paying the mechanic for his professional opinion who will understand any other problems in that area.

      But if I tried DIY I will still have to pay the mechanic to inspect nearly everything for the safety certificate, no?

      • [Deactivated] on 03/07/2017 - 15:35
        -3

        You have to pay that regardless.

        The difference between what the mechanic must do and what you can do, is what you stand to save. You need to make that decision whether you think you have the required skills/time/experience to perform the duties the mechanic may charge you for.

  • enzioFirenze on 03/07/2017 - 15:07

    there's plenty of dodgies around, not saying you should go to one of them, I once saw a guy with an oil leak close to the exhaust and a leaking shock get the roadworthy when in reality, it shouldn't have happened, at all!

    • shapers on 03/07/2017 - 15:43
      +1

      All the dodgies I know would never roadworthy a car that's going to be sold and has an issue, if you were keeping it they wouldn't care as much but they don't want to lose their roadworthy tester license if a buyer goes and complains

      • enzioFirenze on 03/07/2017 - 18:34

        but how would the dodgies know whether you are going to sell it?

        • Cheap Charlie on 03/07/2017 - 20:32

          Because the car is already registered (in QLD).
          Inspections in QLD are only required to establish registration and also required to sell a registered vehicle in QLD

        • enzioFirenze on 03/07/2017 - 22:06

          @Cheap Charlie: that makes sense, I was thinking more along the lines of NSW e-safety check

  • inherentchoice on 03/07/2017 - 21:58

    Thanks everyone for your replies. Will try let you know how it works out over the next week or so.

  • [Deactivated] on 04/07/2017 - 09:33
    +1

    The mechanic says it won't pass Roadworthy so you ask Ozbargain if that's right?

    • inherentchoice on 04/07/2017 - 10:38

      Sorry for distrusting the mechanic. But I'm grateful to have received some second opinions.

  • Euphemistic on 04/07/2017 - 16:35

    What is the car and how much is it worth? There are some real differences of opinion around what an 'old bomb' is on this site. Some seem to think that older than 5yo is not worth thinking about, while many others have perfectly serviceable vehicles they bought for under $2k and over 10yo.

    A common vehicle worth under maybe $2k sell it unreg. It is an easy fix for someone that know how to do it and if it is the only thing wrong it might not put off a buyer with mechanical ability. I've replaced a drive shaft and it was pretty easy.

    If it is worth more, just get it fixed before you sell, you'll get the money back most likely.

  • doctordv8 on 04/07/2017 - 22:13

    Reading your questions and your replies also, you are seriously not experienced enough to perform CV boot and drive shaft work. Some models require brakes/steering and suspension components to be removed just to remove a joint or shaft. Mind you, do you have family/friend/neighbor that is willing experienced and equipped to help you? Yes? Go for it.

    In a perfect world with the correct tools and correct info on exactly what and how to do this job, and what to do for the many issues and difficulties that often arise, you should pay the man. Just one seized or broken retainer C clip will have you in a whole world of hurt without a very big hammer and the knowledge to swing just right.

    Some gear/auto oil may leak out, pending make/model and method of repair, but not a worry if the angle of the dangle is right.

    CV boots often ooze grease from the clamps and can be cleaned and re clamped if required. Have the single boot replaced, and have a wheel alignment performed if required pending model as some vehicles do require it after suspension/steering joints have been refitted.

    It really is difficult to give absolute advise without you first displaying all the pertinent info. Make, model, trans, age, K's etc. These can make a price or method difference, and on some cars only exchange or new shafts complete are available, or only genuine boots which cost a lot more only being available. What is for one year/model can be very different to the next year, same model.

    Give the dude his dough and sell the car with a valid clean RWC and sell it easier for more. Unreg is a throw away affair nearly.

  • [Deactivated] on 05/07/2017 - 12:11

    Roadworthy are so subjective.

    Pay for a cheap road worthy and the mechanic will just use it as an excuse to drive more work to his business

    Pay for an expensive road worthy and you can get somebody who closes one eye when doing the inspections.

  • theguru1 on 07/07/2017 - 07:32

    If the $250 is to fit 2 x reconditioned CV shafts, then that is a good price. Just to fit boots, NO.

  • inherentchoice on 10/07/2017 - 17:49

    Thanks again everyone for your replies. On the weekend I DIY'ed 3 boots and the transmission fluid for under $80 and today the mechanic says it will pass roadworthy, just needs new tint on one window and some rubber pedal covers. Hopefully then it will fetch $3,000 or so.

    Now to just find a 'new' car haha.

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