Buying my first PC build tomorrow

Only 2 things im abit unsure about:

1)The ram, considering going up to 3000mhz
2)PSU, been looking at the EVGA G2 750W for $150; 750W is abit over kill but might help in future proofing or just changing to the SeaSonic 550W OEM V3 80Plus Gold PSU for $99

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type Item Price
CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor $344.00 @ Shopping Express
CPU Cooler Cooler Master - Hyper 212X 82.9 CFM CPU Cooler $49.00 @ Umart
Motherboard MSI - B350 PC MATE ATX AM4 Motherboard $139.00 @ Mwave Australia
Memory Kingston - FURY 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory $175.00 @ Umart
Storage Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $128.00 @ Shopping Express
Storage Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $63.00 @ Shopping Express
Video Card Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card $579.00 @ Mwave Australia
Case Cooler Master - MasterBox 5 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case $95.00 @ PCCaseGear
Power Supply Corsair - CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $95.00 @ Shopping Express
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total $1667.00
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-21 21:14 AEST+1000

Comments

  • +1

    I'd probably get a samsung 960 or intel 600p for the ssd.

    • Probably should have put this in the OP sorry; only thing I need to install on SSD will be windows + dota2. I will still be keeping my old PC for all my other junk this new PC will just be for gaming and streaming, already going above budget as it is

  • Already have a hdd? 1tb is pretty small if you don't.

    • As above, sorry should have put more info about that in the OP

  • +1

    You're cheaping out on storage and it will bottleneck your build. The mobo supports m.2 SSDs, I'd agree with above and get a 960 Evo for a boot drive and install a few games. If you need the storage, then get a HDD down the line. 750W is overkill unless you're going to take advantage of SLI.

    • Only thing I need to install on the SSD is windows and dota 2. Do you suggest I get the 960 250GB over the MX300 though?

      Any feedback on that corsair or Seasonic 550W in the op for the PSU?

      • NVMe is a decent bump over SATA. The 960 Evo or Intel 600p are not that much more expensive than your pick (or virtually the same in the 600p's case).

        I haven't experience with either PSU, but just skimming over your list 750W is excessive. Will you be running a second card anytime soon? No? Then you don't need 750W. There are other PSU models that have spin down features, it's not unique to the EVGA G2.

  • +1

    go the 750 watt psu
    why? well the G2 has a switch at the back which is an eco mode switch but when not under alot of load the fan wont spin so silence.
    i have the 750W evga G2.

    • Saw that switch in a review looks neat, do you just leave that eco switch on? I will be probably gaming all day so im not sure if I can leave that on?

    • +3

      I dont care for aesthetics sorry

    • +1

      what the??

  • If you're already over budget, any SSD is better than none. It'll hardly be much of a bottleneck, if at all. The Crucial will be fine.

  • +1

    The existing RAM is fine, performance barely scales with memory speed past 2666. If you have spare money, it is better spent elsewhere, like an ssd upgrade.

    Your PSU choice is a solid budget option, a little on the cheap side for a $1700 build but if it does its job then there's nothing to complain about. I agree that 750W is overkill. If you care at all about aesthetics, I would not go with the SeaSonic OEM for two reasons: 1) not modular, cables will be going everywhere, and 2) will stick out like a sore thumb because of that gray OEM finish/grill. Ideally you're looking for a 550W gold-rated modular or semi-modular power supply here, but yeah the CX550M will do a fine job.

    Edit: There are some entries here that might be of interest: https://staticice.com.au/cgi-bin/search.cgi?q=550w+gold+psu+… . The fractal one might be nice as the white fan suits the case (white builds are sweet btw, good choice).

    • How important is memory speed on DDR3 RAM for gaming? I think I have 1333 or 1600.

      • +1

        Ryzen processors love high speed memory though with the way the work.

        Normally, I'd just suggest to get 1333mhz, but with a ryzen processor get as fast as you can get.

      • +1

        iirc most people agree value drops off hard after 1600. After 2400 performance increase seems to fall within margin of error. But that's based on stuff I read before Ryzen.

  • You can get 1080Ti with $1700 build. Why settle for 1070 ?

    https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/X23WLD

    • +1

      Got the 1070 for $460 in the latest deal, since I will only be playing dota 2 and overwatch I dont think its necessary to go past a 1070

  • +1

    have fun!!

  • +1

    People here saying you need more SSD but I run fine on 250gb + 1tb hdd. Although recently started playing around with emulators, which run much better on SSD and takes up a fair amount of space.

    If you're considering an M2 in the future, may as well get one early to install OS etc. Not sure about your mobo, but they're usually on the underside, so could be a pain to install later on.

    Also; enjoy :) it's good fun!

  • Also 16gb ram may be overkill.. could be somewhere to save some $$ and have something to upgrade in the future.

  • I just checked your PSU against the tier list, and the CXM's really aren't rated.
    https://imgur.com/361pNaI

    (you might find a more updated tier list, just look around on google/reddit)

    Try and get Tier 3 minimum, ideally tier 2. Mod/Semi-modular is a good pick out though, makes your cabling nice and tidy!

    Edit: This is PSU I picked up last year, has done me well for only $115. Tier 2 620W 80+ bronze and semi-modular.
    https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/mWphP6/antec-power-suppl…

  • And don't forget case fans. (i'll stop now)

  • I read that you should try to aim for 3000Mhz for Ryzen builds (seems to affect FPS greater than Intel). My mate just bought a 16gb kit of Corsair Vengeance 3200Mhz from Futu for $180 during their eBay sale for their Ryzen build so you should definitely keep an eye out!

  • -1

    If it's for gaming and streaming then money is better spent on an non-K i5 with B or H series chipset motherboard.

    Then you can ditch the cooler as well since the Intel stock cooler is good.

    Also if DOTA and Overwatch is all you're playing a GTX 1070 may be too much depending on the FPS and res you want. I pull ~140FPS in Overwatch with everything turned on at 3440x1440. I can push way higher by disabling just dynamic reflections.

    That said having "too much" GPU isn't a terrible issue.

    • Non-k i5's do not compare to the ryzen 1500x/1600 processors.

  • +1

    Stick to the 2666Mhz speeds for your RAM. Don't bother going up further, it won't help much (a few frames) that you wouldn't notice.
    Have a look at this video about RAM speeds here. Stick to what the mobo supports for better compatibility unless you like to tinker with overclocking.

    Save your money and use it elsewhere in your build.

    Otherwise, great build. BTW Don't forget to factor in the OS (Windows 10 I'm assuming) into your price unless you already have a copy somewhere.

    • Thanks for that, have checked the ram in the OP and it is listed in the compatibility list, if I go up to the 3000 it will cost another $25 (the certain one I can get from the shop + being compatible) so probably going to just stick with 2666.

      As for the OS there is a 10$ difference between the OEM and USB, not sure if I should just go with the USB so if for any reason I need a different mobo I can use it again?

      • +1

        Yes you can. But do note with the Windows 10 Anniversary update the licence can be tied to your Microsoft account. So when making a new build or replacing parts you can reactivate it for free without calling MS. I actually just did this yesterday on my build from a VM machine to an actual PC.

        USB vs DVD - I'd go for the USB. Much faster but you can create your own. I just download my own Windows 10 ISO and created my own USB bootable (but I got the licence for free when I upgraded from Windows 7. You can still upgrade for "free" following this little guide if you still have Windows 7. But it will take a while to get up and running.

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