Citrus experts? Leaf deficiency diagnosis sought

Daniel Plainview on 11/01/2017 - 10:33

Hi OzB,

I was going to post elsewhere but then saw that someone had posted asking about the best chicken egg incubator (with good responses!) and figured as an owner of 8 chickens that I'd underestimated the OzB crowd and obviously Citrus would be a cinch for them.

Haha we'll see eh?

Anyway - my wife and I bought a rundown small acreage ~10mths ago - as part of doing over the gardens we popped a bunch of small citrus trees in - alas despite putting fairly good effort into planting them (improved soil in hole, trace minerals, dynamic lifter, mulched, watered weekly) they all don't seem to be doing very well.

Now I know that Citrus tend to have many issues able to be diagnosed depending on their leaf patterns/colours etc - but after looking into this I'm none the wiser. Anyway here's a number of photos of different affected trees: https://flic.kr/s/aHskteCVnu

I'm on the outskirts of Coffs Harbour, sun & rainfall is good. Soils are quite clayish (recently added 2 handfuls of gypsum per tree in hopes that might assist) - but many older & established citrus on the property are doing well. All the affected trees (which were all the new citrus we put in) haven't had much growth at all - leaves show discolouring of yellow - some have yellow veins as well.

So unsure if it's one of the less obvious deficiencies or maybe I might have even overdone it with nitrogen based ferts earlier in the year….or alkaline soils. Or perhaps a number of issues at once?

Very confused and would welcome any feedback or guidance.

Thanks, Nick

Home & Garden

Comments

  • altomic on 11/01/2017 - 11:02

    Is the mulch bunched up around the base of the trees? The trunk( at the base) should be left exposed. Mulch pushed against the trunk can cause issues such as rot.

    • Daniel Plainview on 11/01/2017 - 11:50

      Fair question - but I'm reasonably savvy with gardening and as such deinitely properly distanced from the trunk to avoid collar rot. :-)

      • altomic on 11/01/2017 - 12:19
        +1

        hmm, possibly some sort of gypsy curse?

  • CyberMurning on 11/01/2017 - 11:08

    here
    http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/horticulture/citrus/or…

    i have one lemon tree and gave it this, fruits and leaves now looks healthier\
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/manutec-1kg-epsom-salt_p2960980

    • Daniel Plainview on 11/01/2017 - 11:53

      Yes, thats the EXACT link I found and viewed but perhaps its just me - I couldn't pinpoint any of those pix that appeared to accurately reflect the issues I was having.

      I've a crapload of epsom salts, as apply it regularly to a few things (mainly chillis) have used on citrus in the past a few times. Did you think it was definitely a magnesium deficiency (which is what I believe epsom salts are used for).

      Just don't want to go adding stuff if thats not the issue as can cause another secondary issue. :-)

      • CyberMurning on 11/01/2017 - 12:04

        well yes epsom salts are for magnesium issue but dont know about yours in particular…
        sorry im not a doctor :)

  • Daniel Plainview on 11/01/2017 - 12:40

    Seems the beat goes on - anyway if anyone has any ideas specifically about the issues that my trees seem to have I'd welcome it. :-)

  • Succulent Synth on 11/01/2017 - 13:30
    +2

    If you go to the Yates website (http://www.yates.com.au/) you can live chat with a horticulturalist and upload photos. I find them very useful although they obviously only recommend Yates products.

  • Pip Squeak on 12/01/2017 - 12:29
    +1

    It does appear to be a combination of deficiencies, indicated from the interveinal chlorosis and the separate photo showing veinal chlorosis. The new foliage deformities may be a copper deficiency, while there also may be an iron shortage due to high pH. Due you know the soil pH? I would recommend you have a leaf analysis conducted. In the meantime, a broadspectrum trace element spray may be beneficial.

    • Daniel Plainview on 12/01/2017 - 12:57

      Hi, unsure of the soil pH - have a kit though so might try that later. I have added iron supplement a few months back but had no change from that.

      Leaf analysis, which technically has to be done at a NATA accredited lab- is a tad much - really for commercial orchards etc - but good idea. Might submit to the Yates site - just to see what they say (I think they take a week plus to reply).

      Thanks for great reply.

      • Pip Squeak on 12/01/2017 - 17:50

        No problem. You can get a leaf test for around $60 which may end up saving you on un-needed fertiliser. Good luck!

  • Bad Wolf on 12/01/2017 - 18:26

    Is it possible that the plants are waterlogged? You've said the soil is clayish
    The newer plants would have a shallower root system then the established trees, that would prevent the intake of nutrients.

    • Daniel Plainview on 13/01/2017 - 09:56

      It's possible but unsure how I'd verify this.

      Knowing that the soil was poor here I ensured each planting was done using a raised mound type approach - digging out as much from the rooting area as possible - then putting some dolomite, trace minerals, dynamic lifter and composting worms in, then adding extra quality soil up to form a small mound that the plant was put in ensuring it was topped up to its original soil level.

      The mulching is very thorough and thick, so I don't water anymore often than once a week - but will try and check the soil moisture level with my finger prior to watering.

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