DIY - First time painting - newly built WA house

• 

  Euphemistic on 09/12/2016 - 06:38

  TLDR. Do some searching on YouTube, Google. Then go to your local paint supplier and ask the person to help you with what to choose.

  • 

    SaberX on 09/12/2016 - 21:00

    Thanks. I have been but there is just a lot of variations as a lot of youtubers for example show great painting techniques but are in the US, so my worry is plasterboard or that apartment style gyprock different in applications etc? Which it is?

    Hence it seems easier to ask a local audience, particularly those who may be in WA for their answers. I'm sure it would be half the time and some good tips, which some videos may or may not go into much detail.

    Shops recommend generally what they have, so my main question here was people may have had experience canvassing various brands or stores and may have a better , unbiased recommendation.

• 

  kash1 on 09/12/2016 - 07:18

  +1

  I can help with some of question 4.
  Cutting in Monarch do a razorback brush it has orange bristles. I use the 50mm. It holds it shape really well and I never need to tape up using it they also have a trim brush with a yellow handle that I find ok.
  Rollers again Monarch the 12mm Walls and ceilings but the razorbacks which are similar usually come in a triple pack which works out a lot cheaper. Upto you if you prefer the 230 or 270mm.
  Get a good adjustable Aluminium paint pole.
  Paint trays - a good strong one. Stay away from the import cheap crap.
  Drop sheets anything canvas is usually good.

  Do Not put any tape on the cornice it will usually always remove ceiling paint.

  And paint coverage it's technically 16sqm per 1lt. I'd scale it back to 14sqm.
  There is a base average they say 4lt for every room when trying to work out how much paint you will need, as the small rooms will average out the larger rooms but it's only a guide.

  • 

    SaberX on 09/12/2016 - 21:19

    Thanks! I had another poster on another forum say their monarch brushes tended to bristle? SO it appears you had no issues with any of your brushes? I will keep an eye out on the razorback line.

    Did you have a recommendation on the normal brushes when not cutting in? i.e. small little wall areas Inbetween tiles and frames of bathrooms etc?

    WIth cutting in is a 50mm brush or large brushes better, as technique wise this gives a bigger 'cutting in' edge which you can roll your roller overlapping into? Which I assume gives a better blended look?? Versus using a fine, small brush size?

    Paint trays - why does everyone say get a good strong one? Wouldn't these stay on the floor, and any cutting in is via a little painters bucket or makeshift container to hold paint in your hand as you work the cutting in? I am planning to get the $64 or so 1metre long gorilla platform ladders things bunnings sells? Is this recommended over ladders, as you can cut in continuously?

    Did you not bother trying cutting in with blocks as opposed to brushes?

    WIll painters tape take off the painted window frames? or just cornices? I assume I can also put this over laminates and other tiles, benchtops etc as these won't be damaged when taking off painters tape?

    I notice some people paint over the tiles side edges so it is the same colour as the wall - is that generally what people do?

    Thanks for the paint coverage tip. I willt ry and calculate each room once I work out window sizes and other things to get a general idea.

    Do you know what coverage oil based sealer is per litre? I heard it gets absorbed very fast and sometimes you don't even know if you have applied it enough in one spot as it's see through? Any tips?

    the local discount paint tin shop suggested tinting it slightly to the colour I was going to paint, so you could see the sealer has been applied. Is this a bad idea? or great?

• 

  MelbEng on 09/12/2016 - 09:34

  After painting the interior of my new house - my advice is, find a good local paint store (such as Inspirations). Steer clear of Bunnings.

  I'm in Vic and our local paint store (which isn't in WA I'm sorry) was able to answer all the questions like you have just asked. They were also cheaper than Bunnings for good brushes and rollers (such as Monarch).

  For one task where I was using an oil based sealer and wanted to just throw the roller out afterwards, rather than cleaning it, I used a cheap roller from Bunnings and really regretted it. It left fluff all over the ceiling I was painting and therefore took 3 times as long as I was always stopping to try to pick it off. The worst thing was, when I mentioned this to my new best friends at the paint store, he pointed out that I could have spent $1 more on their 'cheap' roller and it would not have given me any problems.

  I used one 50mm brush for cutting in and one roller (with an extension pole). I used two people also and found it very quick and easy as one person was on the brush cutting in and the other followed them with the roller.

  I used water based Haymes paint everywhere (apart from that one job) and I had no trouble with it. Go to their website and watch all their DIY video's like I did.

  I also used the canvas drop sheets. Plastic sheets just don't stay in place. But if your house is new, then doing all the painting before the flooring goes down means you won't need any drop sheets. Just do the ceilings and cornices first. Then the walls. I ended up buying a Wagner sprayer and it made the job of painting the cornices so much easier.

  Colour - we went Hog Bristle 1/2 strength.

  Good luck!

  • 

    SaberX on 09/12/2016 - 21:26

    There is an inspirations paint store in perth nearby! I will check them out tomorrow then - I didn't know if they were a small store and I didn't want to impose by asking all these questions then going to bunnings or somewhere to buy supplies? I would have thought bunnings was cheaper for its scale? but of course advice would be paint stores?

    There's a discount paint store nearby too - paint for less, which sells all the brand stuff in terms of dented tins etc., hence cheaper. I was thinking of going this - there's no risk that a store like this could 'tint' something wrong compared to a bunnings or inspirations right? I assume tinting paint is bread and butter?

    Thanks for the advice on the oil based sealer rollers. I was going to just buy those economy 6 rollers for a few bucks etc, as the discount paint store recommended going their cheap rollers as oil based sealer just ruins it in one go. So I guess if I start getting fluffing or pieces coming out then throw it away and after that room is done go and buy another brand and save time in the long run? Can you remember the brand he recommended for $1 more?

    Did you also have to buy cheap cutting in brushes for oil based sealing the walls? someone below commented that you only have to seal the majority of walls with a roller and therefore save time not cutting in, is this true? Or did you seal every spot of the walls as if it was a top coat of paint colour?

    I'll have to check out Haymes. We don't have that brand here in bunnings, or at least I haven't seen it around here. I will check out their DIY vids! Hard to find non US based ones and especially WA based due to the fact we use plaster over double bricks and not all this gyprock or plasterboard stuff.

    Unfortunately my house was completed and handed over, so all my tiles and carpet are in. So I will be needing drop sheets. ANy advice on any accessory or tools to cut into where carpet meets wall, probably a lot harder given it fluffs onto your wall, whereas a cornice is fixed and well defined to cut into.

    My ceilings and cornices I believe are done? I'm real confused but the paint tin said it was a primer, and some sort of top coat or first coat in one?? I assume because it is cornices they just use a primer and topcoat of white to paint the cornices and ceilings for you already?

    How best did you go about choosing colours? The idea of using a sample pot and painting a wall doesn't apply as I have no sealed walls, and I don't have time to do this - I need to have sealer, colours etc all ready as soon as x'mas week hits - so we hit the deck running :)

    Do you remember how long your oil based sealers vs paint take to dry before you can move on from sealing to painting, or from 1st to 2nd coat of colour?

• 

  Dee716 on 09/12/2016 - 10:20

  Hi SabreX
  I'm in WA too and painted out newly built home 5 years ago (and all the others I've lived in) but I'm not a professional painter so can just give you my experiences and tips.

  The sealer is very important and it smells very bad, you will need a good mask and good ventilation. I couldn't stand the smell so made hubby do most of the sealing. You don't need to worry about cutting in with the sealer, just get as close to the edges with the roller as you can. We have not had any issues with our paint peeling and we can scrub it.

  We simply wiped down the walls and sealed, didn't have large cracks or holes and we were time poor so figured we would patch any of the little dents later, walls get damaged when furniture is moving around etc so I wouldn't stress over anything little.

  If you need to fill, you want spackfilla or polyfilla (same thing) for the dents and holes (putty is for timber) The one for fine cracks is much easier to sand. The higher the number on the sand paper the finer it is and the smoother it is, so you want a fine sand paper but not too fine. I think I use about 120 grit. Some of the pre made brands come with the tool, I prefer to use a plastic spatula over a metal one, (metal for putty).

  We used taubmans endure paint for this house and dulux in the last house which is just as good, I have used many brands over the years and these are the two best I have found (and wattyl for exterior ). Coverage is good and they can be scrubbed clean. Water based low sheen for walls, the higher the sheen the more imperfections you see.

  I never use tape. I find it peels off paint and looks worse than me freehanding it and I am a perfectionist. Have tried lots of different tapes and all had the same result. So for cutting in I just use a 50mm brush (held sideways) and a steady hand. I have never purchased a specialised brush for cutting in, tried one once, hated it. I find it's pretty easy once you get the hang of it, you just start a little bit away from the line you need and holding your brush sideways, ease in and make a steady line. Keep a damp rag with you while you practice and you can wipe the paint off if you need and try again.

  For around carpet, I just use a piece of card and move it as I go along or you could tape, use the paint sparingly near the carpet.

  As far as choosing a brush goes, I think this all depends on the way you paint, I use a firmer brush (middle of the range at Bunnings) as I can control it better and I'm a firm painter, my dad prefers a longer bristled softer brush (he uses a cutting in brush) but he paints softly and his finish is not as good, could be him but I just delegated him the back rooms and I did all the main rooms, he has still done a much better job than the professional we hired at my work in comparison. I'd stay away from the cheap brushes with hardly any bristles, mid range and more bristles is heaps better.

  Cutting in is harder than rolling, so if you are getting helpers, rolling is a good job to give anyone that doesn't have a steady hand.

  We used the roller buckets rather than trays, easier to cart around and can put more paint in them.

  • 

    SaberX on 09/12/2016 - 21:56

    Hi Dee! Thanks - no probs your not a professional. The point of this was to hear from other DIY'ers. Surely we all have done our research to some extent and combined with your past experiences and mistakes or good habits, I'm sure this will all be very educating or at least more beneficial than sitting back and not asking the question!

    I have heard how bad the oil based sealer is - it must be really smelly. Does a good ventilation mask actually do anything to the fumes? THe next door neighbor painted theirs and mentioned sealer got all over your clothes and tore off/stuck to skin - is it really that bad and we need gloves? Is the advice you got to not worry about sealing the edges with cutting in brushes?? If so I don't mind skipping, but I am just worried that by not sealing all the way to the edges by cutting in with brushes, won't this result in paint adhering differently when you went to do your two coats of topcoat paint?

    So you wiped down with dry rags or some sort of brush or the like (no wet or damp cloth used?)

    For your instance it seems you patched after sealing as per my builder's recommendation, as opposed to most DIY'ers who seem to say to patch before sealing so it's all nicely done already and you seal and you're done? THanks for confirming the spackfilla/polyfilla - finally someone who's addressed it! I wanted to get stuck into filling but just didn't know if I was on the right track! So for slight cracks or where I've got lines scraped through ( a scissors blade ran along/fell onto plaster somehow) you don't use spakfiller and there's another product I should be using?

    Thanks for the plastic vs metal spatula. SPakfilla supposedly has plastic in it and it makes sense - my worry was a metal one would end up denting or scratching the plaster for inexperienced DIY'ers like myself when you knick the wall. As for sandpaper, so did you sandpaper down the wall in general to get some 'adhersion' to the surface before sealing? Or do you only fine sandpaper the wall to get rid of little bits of excess plaster , and where filled sand with coarses sandpaper to smooth out the patching? DO you recommend a sanding block tool?

    Thanks for the advice on taubmans and dulux. Some recent posts I saw online seemed to think taubmans endure did not wash/wipe away clean, in fact wiping left visible paint mark discolourations etc. Whereas dulux wash and wear was better? DId you have any issues with your taubmans or recommend one over the other?

    Do you just use the same dulux wash and wear or taubmans endure through the bathrooms/wet areas too?

    Interesting - so you use a 50mm brush and by holding it sidewards your bristles would be in line with the direction of the edging? Wouldn't you not get a big cut in line then? Which I thought one wants with a bigger brush (over smaller) so that you can overlap your roller over these cutting in edges so it blends the colour in better as one big wall?

    So a wet rag is all one needs to mop up drops of water based paint if you get it over tiles or benchtops or other surfaces - I don't need turps or some sort of other solvent to wipe of drops that go wayward?

    I have heard and understand the lack of using tape on cornice edges as supposedly it pulls the existing white paint off. But is there any reason you wouldn't tape up the edges of tiles, benchtops, laminate, window frames etc? Did you find even window frames which are either painted or spray painted would have their paint pulled off as well with the painter's tape?

    Thanks re: carpet. My friend had a plastic little long piece, which is like a protector. I thought that was a good idea, so you stick it into the carpet edging like a protector sheet as it's hard but flexible plastic style resin.

    Interesting comments on the soft versus hard brushes. I hadn't thought about it. I would have thought a soft brush would be a harder job for someone like your dad, wouldn't the harder brush give more firm bristles and less movement of the bristles for unsteady hands? I too think professionals cost a bomb to do the job (looks good) or if you go cheap they are probably less careful than you so they are 'faster' in knowing how to cut corners and not muck up, but you can probably do a decent enough job in comparison. Not to mention the cost saving.

    I haven't seen a roller bucket before. Did you use the little painter buckets for hand carrying for brushwork painting of your cutting in?

    Sorry for such a lengthy response - many curious questions.

    Do you have a general guide between sealing how long until you could paint your first coat, and how long again before that surface became dry enough for a second coat? I don't want to rush and risk bubbling or whatever other common problems there are with walls not fully dried. Is a day between each stage/coat sufficient, especially given the current weather?

    I am getting helpers. I thought the girls were better and usually liked taping up edges, doing edging etc. I am pretty OCD and I would say a lot more focused so maybe I should do the edging like you said. I just thought rolling would be fun and also quite important in getting the right amount on and spreading it well. But you do have a point - it's probably better to entrust the care and focus to oneself with a steady hand. haha will have to give them a line test!

    Can you share any techniques on cutting in and rolling in terms of how you do it? I heard one continuous brush line , including cutting in looks better than having less paint on the brush and doing more small strokes?

    With rollers they always say do a W shaped rolling on the wall - I just don't understand why? Do you do a W quickly so that the thick paint smears everywhere, so that when you go back over up/down it spreads evenly? Just couldn't get my head around these suggested techniques, so be curious if you just went in an up-down motion or what? I assume you should stick to rolling up-down or left-right (which obviously is harder) as if you go in multi directions does the paint dry and show markedly that you've gone all over the place??

• 

  cvas on 09/12/2016 - 12:15

  This is a fairly simple job to do having done it quite a few times in WA. I will list a few things I think below. My opinion only.

  1. Lighting is your best friend even during the day you can never have too many spotlights on your walls.
  2. Try to get softer putty as it saves time sanding and really makes no difference to the finish. If you can I would highly recommend the pink spak fill stuff. It stands out like dogs nuts seriously get a colour filler other than white otherwise you will miss sanding some patches and it looks horrible once painted over plus a lot harder to sand back once painted.
  3. Sealer goes on before filling with putty, it makes the holes and gouges stand out more (sealed plaster will be yellow/off white and gouges will be fresh plaster colour bright white).
  4. Sand down the walls where it is a rough finish otherwise these will stand out when you're done. Take time in the prep, masking, sanding and wiping down otherwise it will look shit.
  5. Rolling on the paint is the easiest part. Cutting in is time consuming however fairly easy. Be sure to get close to the cornice. If you get some on the cornice I wouldn't wipe it off. Let it dry and then touch up with ceiling colour (WA builders usually use Dulux ceiling white or maxi white) but check your addenda.
  6. Cutting in brushes cheaper than $20 are worth chucking in the bin. Spend on a quality cutting brush even if you just buy one it will make your life so much easier. Similar to the rollers it may be worth getting one or 2 good quality rollers rather than 10 cheap shitty ones. The bearings will leak grease onto your walls over time with cheap gear.
  7. Flimsy cheap trays will crack if you press the paint out too hard. 230mm rollers are better than 270mm IMO. Easier to control. Go for microfibre.
  8. If leaving rollers overnight, wrap them in glad wrap still wet with paint. Brushes, just leave them in a pot of water.
  9. Ensure you have a quality/safe ladder for cutting in. dont use a milk crate, your feet will get tired and if you put a foot through the top of the crate you'll cut your leg open (especially if it has been out in the sun).
  10. Some plasterers are rough where the window frame meets the plaster. TAKE TIME in filling these up with no more gaps. If you putty these gaps, they will crack within a few days. No more gaps is flexible.
  11. Ensure your thunderbox walls are in good nick, pay attention to this area. When you are sitting on the throne, the last thing you want is to be staring at all the gouges and rough parts of the walls you missed. Save this time for cat videos.
  • 

    skrep on 09/12/2016 - 12:28

    10 - architraves cover that gap which is probably why a lot of plasterers leave that like it is unfinished.
    There is no need to no more gap between the plaster/sheet and the jam

    • 

      cvas on 09/12/2016 - 12:40

      I am way too broke to afford architraves surrounding my windows haha

      • 

        PVA on 09/12/2016 - 22:08

        you'd find putting in architrave is cheaper than using no more gaps to be honest.

      • 

        cvas on 10/12/2016 - 12:02

        3 tubes cost me $40 enough for the whole house. No chance I would get the architraves done for anything close to that

  • 

    SaberX on 09/12/2016 - 22:13

    Hello! Another WA'er, great to hear from you!

    1) I will be installing LED downlights will that work? I don't have floodlights otherwise? Are they cheap to pick up one that I can shine from the ground to see imperfections? Or can I just make do with the summer daylight?

    My friend advised against night time painting - even though I'm rushing to get my lighting installed (LED downlights). I thought this would be fine as I'm going pretty bright? He reckons the colour/thickness of the paint coat won't be the same as you can't judge at night?

    2). Someone mentioned spakfilla or polyfilla is what you use for our WA based plaster? correct? It seems you use something else for hairline cracks/slashes in the paint and no holes? I assume spakfilla is the pink stuf your talking about.

    WIth sanding the patches, given I've only felt sanded ones, is it really that obvious once painted? I would have thought they would be flat albeit slightly raised, so you wouldn't notice the bump unless running your hand over it? I guess if it is not sanded it will dry rough and bumpy, whereas I have only felt the post-sanded product when my house was handed over?

    3). Won't the gouges get sealer in them too - which is what my builder mentioned is the reason why you can just acrylic seal over the patched parts as below it is sealed? I guess not as much sealer would go on so the colour would look different?

    Should I follow the local discount paint stores advice and tint the sealer a slight strength of the paint colour I intend to paint, he mentioned it would help so you would know where sealer has gone?

    My brother tried sealing and mentioned he used so much as it dries clear and it just absorbs right in? is it generally something you just need to get it once over the surface evenly, and it's sufficient? Or is the aim to keep loading it on? or is there evne no reason to even out the sealer? Just whack it on and even if it's thicker in some areas it wont affect the end finish?

    4).So do I use a coarse or fine sand paper grit and run this over areas of finished plaster that don't need to be filled? Is it good practice to sand the whole plaster generally, then brush off (don't use wet or slightly damp rags to pickup dust??). Or should you only be sanding the parts of finishe dplaster with little specks of plaster not smoothed over?

    5). Won't touching up cornices leave obvious marks in difference in tones? Do you recommend cutting in with oil based sealer right to the edges/cornices, or do you only have to just roll sealer onto the majority of the wall unlike the top coats of paint?

    6). Besides price, is there brand or material type to go by on buying a quality cutting in brush? I have no problems buying an expensive quality brush and rollers but I just don't know how to judge, apart from filtering on price alone?

    With the oil based sealer though, any roller or brush is destined for the bin after? So do I just go cheap? And does that mean if I don't get finished in one day do we have to throw it all out and have another set to go for the second day? Whereas once we get to water based top coat paints you can just wash out in water end of the day, correct?

    Any general cleaning or maintenance tips? or heads up in avoiding drying/damaging brushes and rollers? Does paint or sealer dry within 20,30 minutes, or is it more of leaving paint out for 2 or 3 hours un used that does it?

    7). So even on a pole, 230mm for the whole wall rolling? Should I get micro rollers for small bathroom /laundry areas where you have exposed wall which can't be rolled with traditional poles due to smaller or odd shapes? or is just getting a 50 mm brush better?

    8). My friend has that roller can thing where you connect a hose. Even without that do you not recommend washing in water at end of day? Why wash out brushes in water but not rollers at the end of the day?

    So your saying leaving bristles of brushes in a water bucket for the next day of painting is good practice for the brushes? And you can come in the next day and paint with them again not fully dried? Thanks for the interesting tips.

    9). Should I use a platform paint ladder that my friend recommended?

    https://www.bunnings.com.au/gorilla-adjustable-height-work-p…

    Then you could use this for cutting in and not having to adjust ladder? or is a ladder still a must for certain applications?

    10). Are you referring to filling gaps between window frames and plaster? or the fact that the plaster isn't smooth and has chunks missing?

    A painter quoting me showed me that they'd squirted this flexible expanding resin thing between window frames and surrounding plaster which supposedly helped cushion when cracking and movement of frames occurred? Does this mean I don't need to do the 'no more gaps' gap filler?

    11). what do you mean by a thunderbox wall sorry?

    extra q:

    12). any advice on painting technique in general? is the platform ladder and one long cutting in a lot better for looks than little small brushes (albeit less paint, so you won't be over applying paint as you have less per brush stroke)? And rolling wise that whole roll a "W" then go back over the wall from left to right, top to bottom with rolling strokes - is there a reason or any other technique to rolling well? I just couldn't see why the whole "W" thing was mentioned.

    • 

      cvas on 10/12/2016 - 15:06

      3 days at full fps

      5-7

      Everything below is my opinion. I'm not a Painter and don't claim to be any good at it. But this is just what I have picked up over the years doing mine/friends houses. Take what I say with a pinch of salt.

      1) Yes daytime lights are OK. Bunnings sell a 1000w spotlight for $49 I think. Very helpful. Running a torch along the wall parallel with it also shows up holes and gouges.
      Here's the worklight
      https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-1000w-halogen-worklight-wi…

      2) Yeh I can't remember the exact name but try to get the one for cracks as it's softer and the pink or yellow version so it really stands out. It's easy to miss if it's the same colour as the plaster.

      3) Oil based sealer only on fresh plaster. You could seal the patchwork too as your builder mentioned I guess but I haven't. I've used valspar and dulux sealer and there is a big colour difference between fresh plaster that you can see where you have painted. Although tint might not be a bad idea? The walls absorb it but no need to keep slopping it on, as long as it's covered, it doesn't need a really thick coat in my experience. Thicker in some areas won't affect the finish unless it's running or bubbly. It's the easiest part of painting you can do it in one day with help. No need to cut in with sealer. Small nap for sealer bigger nap for colour don't use the same roller covers for both types of paints. If you have any drywall sections (i.e. Cavity sliders), do not use oil based sealer, use drywall sealer

      4) fine sandpaper is good for putty but you may need coarse sandpaper for hard spots to get in the plaster. Try not to take the white set off down to concrete. I just sand the rough patches and lightly go over with a rag. Not the end of the world if there a bit of dust left over.

      5) touching up cornices couple of light coats with SAME COLOUR won't be noticeable at all.

      6) don't throw out until your finished. Wrap the roller in glad wrap if you're leaving over night. Ask the bloke at the store to help with a good brush, I'm out of my depth with brands and that. Yeah water is fine for the water based. Don't sweat all the leaving out and drying stuff business. If the roller looks stuffed, change it. They are cheap, no use trying to do the whole house with one roller, change them and keep them in good repair. You'll know after painting for a few rooms what condition you need them in.

      7) def get a micro roller they are excellent for smaller spaces where you want the nice roller "orange peel" finish. Way better than a brush. And Get a couple of 230mm and a 270mm and see what you like better. I prefer 230mm.

      8) you can leave the Brush's in water as they can handle being soaked. I have never left rollers in water so I'm not sure how they fare. If you wash them at the end of day one they will still be soft and good to go on day 2 so all good whatever way you want to go. Just make sure you get a lot of the water out of brush and roller before starting otherwise the paint will be thinned and runny for the first few rolls/strokes (not a big deal just annoying)

      9) that ladder looks a bit dangerous. You want to try and have 3 points of contact however that one is sort of a balancing act. It may work for you but be careful I guess.

      10) Yeh i used no more gaps, if you can sand back the expanding foam and make it look seamless with the window frame then I guess it's OK? Might be best to get the plastered opinion in this thread with this query….

      11) Hahah thunderbox wall is your toilet walls. You don't wanna be sitting down staring at all your missed patches…

      12) W motion is good. Lead with the inside edge of the roller (the part with the metal bracket thingy) once you've done a section if it looks uneven in thickness you can place your roller at the top of the wall and let it roll down the wall with no pressure it just helps to smooth the paint a little bit.

• 

  skrep on 09/12/2016 - 12:26

  Hey OP

  Professional plasterer here..

  1)

  Both ways work however, you still need to sand and seal your work.
  One major benefit from sealing and then patching is when you come to sand you will not over sand other parts of your plaster work when sanding your patch.

  We also do this because it helps pick up the imperfections of the white wall. casting a light along the wall will also help you see the imperfections.

  and yes, you do need to make it as dustless as possible. Use a fine brush broom is easiest and broom the wall like it was a floor :)

  2)

  Plaster top coat is fine for any small patching/imperfection you do (holes in the plasterboard will need either a putty or plaster base coat and finished with a top coat)

  any tool you see fit will work. What works for you is best for you because in the end you are the one sanding it. Make your life easier by getting used to the tools so you do not have to work your shoulder by sanding down 5mm thick plaster.

  3)

  Avoid using water if it is fresh plasterboard. wetting the plaster work again will not be beneficial at all. As I mentioned before, use a fine brush broom.

  That's as much as I can answer in my professional opinion :)

  • 

    SaberX on 09/12/2016 - 21:12

    Hey persie! great to have you and your opinion on board!

    Before I respond, what do you recommend I use to patch up little scratch lines or even small bits that have come out of plaster? DO I use the spakfilla or polyfilla as someone mentioned above? Spakfilla seems to be the recommendation I've got and sold throughout bunnings and here?

    Re your comments:

    1) SO what is your best recommendation? On balance of time and quality? Given we may or may not eventually rent this out so having a display home finish isn't necessary as it may just get ruined and chunks taken out of it by tenants… but at the same time we want something presentable if we stay in it (and general pride)?

    By sanding and patching after sealing, would you recommend we then use acrylic sealer over just the patch, and maybe abit of the surrounding sealed plaster? Will this leave patches that are visible when it comes to painting over later?

    Any recommendations on where to find fine brush brooms? in general most brooms and dust pan sized brushes seem pretty coarse?

    I don't have spotlights or anything though? Would turning on the LED light sin the day or anything else be cheap and easy to cast light to see the imperfections? I assume you mean just little nicks and dents you don't notice (unless your OCD going by eye and wall to wall)?

    2) when you say plaster top coat is that the filling compound? I am WA based so the walls are all set and float (grey render then white set plaster, so no plasterboard?? although cornices are plasterboard correct?) so would I just use the spakfilla? Sand down to the area feels smooth relative to wall, then acrylic seal it after?

    Or do you think I will get further by just patching and sanding carefully (so I don't oversand surrounding plaster) so I can just oil based sealer the whole wall once and for all?

    3) again it is fresh white set plaster? I assume this is differen to plasterboard? So in which case I just use rags to push off dust and brush as much as I can onto the floor (tiles, carpet etc) then vacuum or mop it up?

    In your professional opinion: should one oil based sealer very thoroughly - i.e. cutting into the edges? or is rolling the majority as close to edges as possible all that is necessary to ensure a decent coat later?

    I will take your suggestion about the sanding tools down, but I assume getting a sanding block would make my life easier - what sort of sandpaper do you recommend? I assume with the non-patched plaster areas one should get a very fine sandpaper to sand the little bits of plaster not smoothened out or sticking out? And with the patched areas a coarser sandpaper followed by a fine sandpaper to finish off the area?

    I assume the whole point of sandpapering it all down is to get a smooth finish and not trying to get abit of a "rough, grippy feel' by running coarse sandpaper over - as this doesn't improve the oil based sealer or 2 x topcoats of paint sticking any more than a smooth plaster finish, does it?

    Thank you for your professional help!

  • 

    SaberX on 09/12/2016 - 21:13

    Sorry one little question, but does it matter if you use a spatula vs flexible metal filling blade vs the plastic blasdes given in the spakfilla containers?

    Do they all work the same, as long as one gets it on there and wipes it over the hole/spot adequately? I notice a lot of patching up videos they do a big smear over surrounding areas, why not just contain the application to the small chunks so you don't have more plaster to sand down? is it a time thing or does it help with integrity by just chucking a big blob of filling compound over a large area?