First post guys…
Bunnings clearance from $12 to $6. Whole kit including the LED bulb.
Just the included 5w LED may cost around $5.
Seen deal at Lidcombe at around 13:00 on 25/10/2016. There were more than 30 available.
Hope you find it useful.
I could only see these 5w's available at Lidcome
It's not GU10 but you can get Telbix Revo for $8.46 from Eurolight with Code TELBIX15
http://www.eurolight.com.au/sale/telbix-revo-led-downlight.h…
Hi Hayato, thanks for the post. Can I ask a question I've always wondered about? Is "warm" white a nice yellow glow? Because I've got the harshest, brightest, most horrible bright white LED downs in my apartment, and I've been looking for some nice warm yellow lights to replace them. So I don't feel like I'm walking into a hospital or quarantine zone or back into my office whenever I get home.
Warm white = yellowish colour (2700-3500K)
Cool white = bright white light like in many office/hospitals/etc, often slightly blue in colour (5000-6500K)
Natural light or Daylight = somewhere between the two, but more towards the cool white I guess as it isn't yellow (4000-4500K)
You don't want to go TOO low either, otherwise you end up with a really odd yellow light. I wish more people sold the 4000K lights in general, they are so much nicer
Natural light or Daylight = somewhere between the two, but more towards the cool white I guess as it isn't yellow (4000-4500K)
That's not really correct. The traditional colour names are:
Warm White: 3000K (Halogen)
Cool White: 4000K (Offices)
Daylight: 6000K (Factories)
And all these colour temperatures are "Natural Light".
None are particularly "yellowish" as such, however 4000K will look "yellow" in comparison to 6000K. However 4000K will look "blue" in comparison to 3000K.
I meant to say "natural white". Mostly is called "daylight", but some call it natural white as it is supposed to be more like natural daylight.
LOL - yeah, however remember that "Natural daylight" comes in all of those colours plus more.
Sunrise and Sunset are down under 2000K. In the middle of the day, the illumination of direct sunlight is between 5500 and 6000K, however if it's overcast the colour is closer to 6500K. Confusingly, skylight can be higher in K, and the sky itself is really blue!
Traditionally, "Daylight" coloured artificial light (eg: from a fluorescent tube) is 6500K. There are some (profanity) promoting 8000K and even high lamps as "more natural" and "Closer to daylight" as a way of flogging overpriced blue lamps to gullible people who think such things are healthier.
Yet other people are flogging lamps without blue in them, claiming that it is more healthy! People (many here on Ozbargain) are loading apps on their mobile phones to change the colour of the "white" screen to a horrid yellow or red, to block out the evil white and blue light that they have been sucked into thinking will harm them…. yet they will put blue coloured LED lamps in their ceiling to illuminate the room LOL.
The words that describe colours mean nothing really. Apart from halogens (illuminated to 5500K or more like studio lighting), artificial light sources are nothing like "daylight" whatsoever.
The reason that LEDs (especially cheap ones) tend to be "blueish" is because the chips are blue to begin with, and the more of the phosphor is used to create other colours, the lower the efficacy. In summary, bluer LEDs = cheaper for manufacturer to buy. This harsh blue tone has oddly become "desirable" by some people for their homes.
@carlscott1982, In my opinion the "warm" white closely resembles the halogen downlight equivalents, just a touch whiter
The colour temperature (3000K or whatever) is only one of the colour metrics, and is not a particularly reliable indicator of the colour appearance of objects in a room.
A halogen lamp produces a continuous spectrum, increasing in power towards red. The correlated colour temperature is 3000K.
A 3000K LED is made of a big spike of blue, then a blob of yellowish green and tapering off towards red end of the spectrum.
Even if they have the same CCT (3000K), and even if they look the same when viewed directly, they will render colours completely differently. For example, anything blue will look more vibrant under the LED than under the halogen (which subdues blues a lot). The bottom line is that because of the blue spike, you generally need a slightly warmer (lower K) LED than 3000K to more closely emulate the colour of halogen.
Also be aware that CCT (K) is only the Blue <> Yellow axis. The other axis is the Green <> Pink, and that aspect is not usually reported by LED suppliers. Lamps with 3000K colour temperature can appear "white" (on the black body locus) or they can appear "greenish" (about the line) or "pinkish" (below the line)… this is often subtle, and contributes to a weird colour of LEDs (especially cheap ones) that we can tell is not quite right, but cannot work out what is wrong with.
And no, the "CRI" is not an accurate indicator of the colour accuracy either - in fact it is a very flawed theoretical calculation that shouldn't really be used for LEDs. It's just a legacy from the 1960's, but is focussed on by LED manufacturers because it is a measurement that they can easily get a high score in even though it doesn't actually mean very much in the real world.
Just found this chart which shows the colours.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planckian_locus#/media/File:Pl…
For each colour temperature (eg: 3000K, 4000K) there is a line. All colours on that line can be classified as that colour temperature.
Where the line crosses the locus (curve) is deemed to be "correct" in the same way that daylight is correct. You can see that a lamp with CCT of 3000K can range in colour from very bright green to almost a medium pink!
The important criteria is "Delta uv", which is the distance away from that locus. The LED suppliers don't like stating this value, however it is just as important (perhaps more) than the CCT itself!
Thanks everyone for replying above. I just learnt a lot!
I wish people sold more 3500k
i currently run a few 10 year old halogens in my house - no idea how to get these installed - is it as simple as unplug it from the mains and plus these kits into the mains?
my current halogens have individual power points for each light + transformer.
would these kits be a simple swap?
Thanks
Yes it should be that easy, just make sure these come with a plug and the cut out is the same diameter. I think these are 70mm.
HPM 240V 5W 505lm Warm White LED Dimmable Downlight
Get rid of the halogens asap, they are a lot more power hungry than led.
You could just buy MR16 LEDs or replace the whole lot with a kit
Guessing you have ~90mm cutouts?
i have no idea about the cut-outs, I'll measure tonight and be prepared for the next sale I guess.
need to do a bit more research in what I have before i can buy.
Thanks for the suggestions/help
my current halogens have individual power points for each light + transformer.
would these kits be a simple swap?
Irrespective of power points or not, it is technically illegal for anyone but a licenced electrician to change the downlights.
This is because the electrician takes responsibility that all the OTHER aspects of a safe electrical installation have been taken care of. The flex and plug coming out of a downlight is classified as "fixed wiring" within the wiring standards, BCA, etc,
That's the law. Same as data cabling, whilst it's easy to run cables and stuff, the law dictates that only licenced tradespeople can perform these tasks.
Pretty sure this is the old model as it's only 400lm, and has been replaced by the new unit 28Degrees linked to above (Part # 4331587).
If the lower lumens isn't an issue then its a great buy for $6
any others on special? Like 10w?