Optus Cable Broadband - Bridging, Maximising Wi-Fi

Hi fellow Ozbargainers :)

I have Optus Broadband Cable at the moment on the high speed pack but the Wifi signal from the cable modem router supplied (CG3000-2STAUS) fails to reach the back of my house. (about 10-15m away from the modem). I would like to maximise the wifi signal & internet speed throughout the house

CURRENT SETUP:
Long double storey house. Walk in the front door - to the left of the walkway is the room with Optus Fetch TV (connected via HomePlug); to the right of walkway is the office with the Optus Modem. Keep walking along walkway to back of house = weaker Wi-Fi, deadspots

I've been trying to make sense of previous threads & understand that I have 3 options (please correct me if I'm wrong):

  1. Get a wifi extender e.g. Netgear EX6200 AC1200 Dual Band Wifi Extender
  2. Put current modem router into 'bridge mode' & get another simple router e.g. Netgear R8000 Nighthawk Router
  3. Replace current modem router with another cable modem router

I believe Option (1) is the cheapest option but may not yield the best signal strength & wireless internet speed, so was thinking of perhaps Option (2) and if possible, (3).

If I was to get another simple router Option (2), is there a brand & model you guys recommend? How would I go about setting it up?

What do you guys think

Called Optus - they recommended me get a Wifi extender =/
Called Netgear - they recommended I get the C7000 Modem Router (for Cable internet), but realised the product is only for US users =/

*Hope this thread helps others who too are frustrated with crappy net

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Comments

  • I've got the same situation, the Optus supplied one is crap, so I have the one you mentioned in option 2 and it works fine with no problems.

    • Hey joelab, thank you for the reply. Which router do you use & may you please instruct on how to set up the bridging? :)

      • +1

        Assuming you have a windows computer, do this. No need to buy an extender or new cable modem at this stage. You need a new router. Buy The nighthawk R7000 or Asus RT-AC68U. You won't need a tri-band router like the R8000, but if you can afford it then go ahead and buy it.

        1. Windows key+R
        2. Type "cmd" then hit enter
        3. type "ipconfig"
        4. Record the default gateway address (192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1)
        5. Paste that address in a web browser
        6. Navigate to one of the options that says 'bridge mode'. Activate it.
        7. Plug an ethernet cable from LAN Port 1 on your cable modem into the WAN (not LAN) of your new router.
        8. Done. :D

        Once you connect your new router, you can follow the same steps to change your router's settings (passwords, usernames, and a whole host of other features).

        • Hey cDNA, thank you! I've got an iMac but I think the process is the same: go into web browser, 192.168.0.1 & find "bridge" mode

          Would I need to change any settings on the Optus modem? E.g. Turn of Wifi, NAt, DHCP settings

          Yes, I'm considering the Nighthawk R7000 & R8000. Comparing them on the Netgear website, I see the main difference is that the R7000 is dual band (600+1300 Mbps); R8000 is tri-band ([email protected]+1300@5GHz+1300@5GHz); the R8000 is $70+ more expensive than R7000.

          I'm getting a router to simply connect wireless devices at the house rear e.g. mobile phone, chromecast, laptop. Is spending $70+ more on the R8000 sensible or should I settle for the R7000?

        • From memory I think when you put it in bridge mode it does the rest for you.

      • +1

        I have the Nighthawk R8000, best router I've ever had and cDNA's instructions should be all you need :)

        • How much improvement with the Netgear router did you guys get in terms of range (distance from the router) & wifi speed?

        • A lot - I have a laptop and a few other wireless things in my bedroom which is around 10 metres or maybe a bit more away from the Router. The original Optus Router/Modem would drop in and out of range and I could rarely get any decent speeds. With the R8000 I have no problems.

  • Option 1 is rubbish, don't do WiFi Extenders.

    Ideally you would want to run an Ethernet Cable (or a pair of HomePlugs) from the Cable modem to the ideal placement for Wi-Fi.

    The R8000 is capable of running in AP mode (Wireless Access Point mode) but any wireless router can be reconfigured to work as an AP even if not a supported option.

    • I plan to position the New router right next to the Optus router, would that be okay? I'm hoping the New router a Wi-Fi strength strong enough to travel throughout the house

      • +2

        I suspect that the difference would be marginal with two Wi-Fis from the same spot. It's true that some routers have better Wi-Fi access points than others, but positioning in a central location is the most important factor to get the most coverage.

        The great thing about running the second router in AP mode is that you don't need to have the main Optus router in bridge mode - which disables the Optus modem's Wi-Fi.

        If you have the Optus router running normally, then you can have a Wireless Access Point where the Optus modem is situated, and then a second Wireless Access Point from the second router in AP mode. That's two Wireless Access Points… both of them added together.

        What I would do is:

        1. Leave the Optus modem as-is
        2. Plug one of the LAN ports of the Optus modem into one of the D-Link powerline adapter that you mentioned below (Powerline adapters need a direct connection to the powerpoint, no powerboards and no surge protectors).
        3. On the other floor, find a location that is central to where you are getting dead spots and plug the other Powerline adapter in there
        4. Plug in the other router in AP mode near the Second Powerline Adapter
        5. Plug the Second Powerline Adapter into the Second router in AP mode (some/most routers in AP mode require that you use one of the LAN ports rather than the WAN port)

        For bonus points if you give the Wi-Fi network the same Name, Password & Encryption (you should always use WPA2-AES) then your devices will actually roam onto the Wi-Fi access point with the strongest signal automatically. I would still test them separately first though to make sure no issues.

        • Oh, great idea! Instead of using a Second router, would using a Wi-Fi extender in this manner work? (i.e. connecting the second Powerline adaptor to the Wi-Fi extender & putting it in AP mode)

        • @mmkardart: If your Wi-Fi extender has an ethernet port then yes, that is an Access Point (same as a router in AP mode).

          If your Wi-Fi extender takes an existing Wi-Fi network and repeats it, then No.

          Might help knowing which model your Wi-Fi Extender is.

          There are some Netgear RPT models that "theoretically" can do it but they are absolutely shocking. I have never ever got one of them to work reliably (over 5 units given to me over the years)

        • I see, what are your thoughts on the Netgear EX6200 AC1200 Dual Band Wifi Extender?
          http://www.netgear.com.au/home/products/networking/wifi-rang…

          If it works, how does the extender differ from the router? In practice, they're both doing the same thing - creating a WAP

          For the second router (or extender) to receive internet via Powerline, wouldn't I need to set the Optus modem to "bridge mode," which would turn off the Wi-Fi from the Optus modem?

        • Netgear website says that I may need to put Optus modem into Bridge mode to avoid conflicts:
          http://kb.netgear.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/110/~/when-to-…

        • Reading about the difference between a Wifi extender & second router, I believe the second router will take over all the "routing" (networking, data packet trafficking; if first router is in bridge mode), whereas an extender will relay data back to the master router (creating an extra hop that data packets need to make, resulting in slower speeds).

          Seems like I'll need a new router!

        • @mmkardart: No you need an AP without extra routing. If you go for another router behind a router (also called a double NAT) you are making your configuration overly complex and you were likely to have configuration issues/conflicts between the two.

          The overhead of running an AP instead of router is so minimal that you literally won't see a difference and in fact the routing is more likely to create a bottleneck. The advantage of a router over a AP(acting as a Switch in this context) is only apparent when you have literally hundreds of devices on your network.

          Netgear KB to change to bridge mode is only applicable if you have two ROUTERS (both in routing mode), as another way to avoid a double NAT. It is not optimal unless your ISP modem completely sucks and you don't really want to use it but you have to use it to even get a connection.

          AVOID the EX6200, that seems to be of the same generation of painful Netgear extended
          In the manual, first FAQ:

          "1. Question. Does the extender work if I connect it to my WiFi router with an Ethernet cable?

          Answer. No, the extender is designed only to connect over WiFi to a WiFi router."

          Which is a shame, because it has all the hardware to do it but their software doesn't have this mode and actually interferes with this configuration.

        • The FAQ Question 1 contradicts "using the Extender in Access Point Mode" - "You can use the extender as a WiFi access point, which creates a new WiFi hotspot by using a wired Ethernet connection." Page 21

          http://www.downloads.netgear.com/files/GDC/EX6200/EX6200_UM_…

          Two different manuals for the same device =/ ? I'm confused

          The Land of Smeg, to clarify, you suggest getting a second router, but using it as a AP (not using it for its routing functions), is that correct?

        • +1

          @mmkardart: yes correct that's what I recommend.

          Most (higher end) routers have the mode explicitly built in, but ANY wireless router can do it with a few setting changes (but those stupid Netgear repeaters can't)

          Settings are:
          - change local IP to same network as main router, so if main router is 192.168.1.1 second router is 192.168.1.2
          - disable DHCP Server on second router
          - do not use LAN port

          Currently I'm using an old Bigpond cable modem as an Access Point in this way. It would literally be useless trash otherwise because it can't be used on any other network.

          Edit: looks like I somehow ended up with February 2014 version of the manual of EX1200 and it has since had the AP mode feature finally added in. I've had so much negative experience with these Netgear repeaters I'm still wary.

        • Thank you! Yes, it makes sense now. Would I need to configure the Optus router into bridge mode or no need to do anything?

          The only thing I'm unclear about is about using the difference in using a router as an AP vs. an extender as an AP. If I'm not going to use the router for its 'routing' abilities, am I wasting money by buying it instead of an extender?

        • @mmkardart: No keep the Optus router in router mode. DO NOT BRIDGE. If you bridge then the second router needs to stay in router mode and you will also lose Wi-Fi on the Optus router. That's not what you want.

          There is no difference in using a router as an AP and using an repeater as an AP.

          The units looks similar, the internal hardware is similar, they have similar functions and some high end units can even be configured to do either Wi-Fi repeater or router!

          The difference is in the software as to what they are primarily designed to do and how that is marketed. A router is "designed" primarily for routing (connecting your home network to your ISP's network), a repeater is "designed" to connect to an existing Wi-Fi network over Wi-Fi and then repeat that Wi-Fi signal (with half the throughput and twice the interference because they doing two Wi-Fi networks at once). Both "routers" and "repeaters" also contain hardware called a "switch" (multiple LAN ports) and "Wireless Access Point" (create a Wi-Fi network).

          What we are doing here is basically isolating that "Wireless Access Point" functionality from the router or repeater.

          It is also possible to buy dedicated "Wireless Access Point" hardware, but generally speaking they are less common (less popular in the market I guess due to All-In-One "routers" being so common), not as good (unless really high end) and more expensive. All-in-one "routers" on the market have very decent Wireless Access Points, and are probably even better than a standalone unit because of their popularity they put more resources into their design.

          I don't have a problem with Repeaters/Extenders (same thing) in general when being used as an AP (ethernet cable to the main router), just that particular line of Netgear products I have had very bad experiences with. They say that they fixed it "on paper" in the latest version of their manual, so it might be fine. It's just a risk to trust Netgear on this one based on my experience with them on this product line. I have probably been presented without about 5 Netgear Repeaters over the years that I just could not get to reliably work at all even in the intended Wi-Fi repeating mode. They are complete garbage in my opinion (maybe this one is different? who knows). I have much more success with other brands (except D-Link or Belkin)

        • Ah yes, so the difference is in the software. I understand now :) Thank you for the explanation Land of Smeg!

        • Hey Land of Smeg,

          Thank you for your insightful, helpful responses. I understand that you recommend I keep the Optus modem with the wifi on and adding a AP in a central location in the house, to further the range of the Wi-Fi.

          The issue is that I have Optus Fetch TV at the front of the house (connected by D-Link POE) and the Optus modem in another room at the front of the house. If I put a router/new AP at the centre of the house (via POE), Optus Fetch TV would lose internet. The back of the house experiences deadspots, what's the best way to get internet to these spots?

          Should I put the new router next to Optus Fetch TV (Optus modem -> POE -> New router -> Optus Fetch) or should I put the new router next to the Optus router (in bridge mode, as others have done)? Or should I get a Unify AP LR & put that next to Optus router? ('Im hoping the WiFi range on the Unify is more powerful than the Optus router)

        • @mmkardart: In case you were still thinking of Bridge Mode, forget it.

          Bridge mode completely bypasses the routing functionality of the ISP modem/router. It makes troubleshooting a lot harder if you are having a connection problem and need to deal with Optus. Their tech support will probably make you undo the bridge mode and that could cause your whole network setup to come crashing down.

          Bridge mode is right in certain circumstances but this is not one of them.

          Generally speaking you don't want two routers doing routing on a home network (twice the complexity and can cause conflicts between each other if not configured correctly), this is called a Double NAT, and is severely frowned upon.

          The point of bridge mode is to completely turn off routing on your ISP modem/router and let the second router do all the routing, so that there is not conflict.

          Bridge mode is what experts do because they know how to troubleshoot things by themselves and change things back and forth if their ISP needs them to. Bridge mode is for when you absolutely need a feature of the second router which is only available when the second router is actually routing. In your case - extend Wi-Fi coverage - you do not need routing features of the second router.

          As far as placement? It's hard to say without knowing the exact layout of your house. Maybe a diagram would help.

          You could try placing the second Access Point next to the Optus Modem and see what happens (don't worry, two Wi-Fi APs next to each other won't cause any problems because they will automatically switch to be on separate non-conflicting channels).

          You could then try placing it next to the Fetch TV and see what happens there too. Your FetchTV can plug right into one of the other LAN ports on the back of the AP and both will be connected (just leave the WAN port unplugged). This is because all the LAN ports are on a switch (A switch is like a Powerboard but for networking).

          I recommend using an App for Android caused Wi-Fi Analyzer, which will actually give you a live graph to measure the Wi-Fi blackspots in your home.

          If you really need to place the Access Point somewhere else (and you can't move the Fetch/Optus modem) my first recommendation is always to use a hardwired ethernet cable connection. They are by far the most reliable solution over a HomePlug. But if that is not feasible, then you can get a 3rd HomePlug and pair all three of them together to be on the same network. Take the HomePlug away from the FetchTV for a while so you can experiment with it.

          If you have previously had Optus TV (old cable service) or Optus TV featuring Foxtel before then you might already have a Cable Modem outlet behind your TV and you could move your Optus modem to be there instead.

          Also you call the HomePlug a "D-Link POE", PoE is different from HomePlug I suspect you have the terminologies mixed up. HomePlug is ethernet running through the electricity wiring of your house, PoE is electricity running through ethernet cables - the inverse.

          So I would try:
          Option 1:
          Optus Modem LAN port 1> ethernet cable > HomePlug 1 > HomePlug 2 > ethernet cable > second router LAN port 1 > second router LAN port 2 > ethernet cable > FetchTV

          Option 2:
          Optus Modem LAN port 1 > ethernet cable > HomePlug 1 > HomePlug 2> ethernet cable > FetchTV
          .................... 2 > ethernet cable > second router LAN port 1

          Option 3:
          Optus Modem LAN port 1 > ethernet cable > HomePlug 1 > HomePlug 2 > ethernet cable > FetchTV
          .....................2 > ethernet cable > ethernet cable through walls > ethernet cable > second router LAN port 1

          Option 4:
          Optus Modem LAN port 1 > ethernet cable > HomePlug 1 > HomePlug 2 > ethernet cable > FetchTV
          .....................................................> HomePlug 3 > ethernet cable > second router LAN port 1

        • Excellent clarification, I'm learning heaps! I'm going to give Option 1, 2, 3 a go. I appreciate that you strongly discourage bridging & appreciate your point - 2 wireless access points are better than 1. But how come so many people on Ozbargain & other forums taking that approach? Clearly, they must feel Optus' CG3000 router is doing a terrible 'routing' job

          You're right, I'm confusing PoE for HomePlug =/

          I've added my current network set up to the main question - basically, I live in a long double storey house. Walk in the front door - to the left of the walkway is the room with Optus Fetch TV; to the right of walkway is the office with the Optus Modem. Keep walking along walkway to back of house = weaker Wi-Fi, deadspots

        • @mmkardart: How far a Wi-Fi signal will reach is not very predictable. It is trial and error. There are so many factors involved like the construction material of your house.

          I would hope that a central or rear location of Level 2 would reach the back of Level 1, or rear of Level 1 will reach rear of Level 2. If not, you may need two additional Access Points.

          I suspect that the reason why bridging is a popular 'solution' is because as you can see these setups are very complicated - look how many answers I've given you - and saying "Bridging" is an easy answer because there are less configuration steps involved even though it is a less-than-optimal setup (for Wi-Fi). And also people might not have the skills to understand any other solution.

          Bridging can cause headaches troubleshooting issues with the ISP in the long term. If you were dead set on bridging or had some other actual need to make the second router the main router, then you would likely need to buy ANOTHER Access Point to make up for down one AP (on the Optus modem). Why buy something more when you've already got one right?

          If you end up going Ubiquiti, Bridging is not an option, period.

          The Optus routing is not terrible, it's just BASIC. So for example if you wanted to do some traffic shaping (control how much bandwidth certain computers/applications can use on a network level), or to filter websites (block porn) and so on you would do Bridge Mode because the Optus Modem can't do that, and you can't just leave the Optus Modem just running in routing mode without some very careful configuration which is an absolute nightmare to support if you are not an expert at networking. If you told a regular IT person that you got a router behind a router (both routing) this is what is called a "double-nat" and they probably wouldn't want to touch it with a 10-foot pole because even the slightest misconfiguration can cause the whole thing to come crashing down.

  • Also. we have a pair of D-Link powerline adaptors (for Fetch TV) connected to the Optus Modem. Would I need to just connect the D-Link ethernet cables to the New Router?

    • Yes that's the setup I use.
      My lounge room with TV is not near my cable modem so I use powerline adaptors and connect an old wifi router (with DD-WRT firmware) in bridge mode to the powerline adaptor at the lounge room end.
      I then hook up my AV gear - TV, Fetch, PVR, bluray, games consoles to the router and turn it into a Wifi access point with the same SSID as the Optus cable modem but on a different channel (one on 6 and one on 11).

      • Hey ozglow, the router in the lounge room is in AP mode (so it does not do any routing), is that correct? How do we configure it into AP mode?

        • Lounge router is AP mode. See my post for config

  • Hi,
    First time poster.
    I use the powerline adaptors and connect an old wifi router with DD-WRT. This is a cheap option.
    However it may be worth looking at the enterprise routers if you want to spend a bit more an they can cover the whole house and can be expanded. They cost about the same as the Nighthawk Router. A few friends have installed these with great success. https://www.ubnt.com/enterprise/
    Hope that helps.
    Cheers

    • Sorry, noob question. What's the name of the product? Unifi AP AC Lite/LR/Pro lost =S

      https://www.ubnt.com/products/#enterprise

      Also, I note that the UBNT product is a wireless AP but the netgear & Asus are routers. Any disadvantage in getting the Unifi?

      • Ubiquiti UniFi is a top brand in Wi-Fi gear, you won't have a problem with their dedicated APs - they are high end. They will be simpler to set up but not as many features if your needs change in the future.

  • For a second router, which do you guys recommend?
    1. Netgear Nighthawk R7000
    2. ASUS RT-AC68U
    3. UBNT Enterprise

    All similar in price, around the 200 mark

    • I have heard excellent things about Ubiquiti gear even though I haven't used them before, but all 3 are great

  • +1

    Hi.
    One friend put in 3 x LR model and loves it. Another friend got the Pro and said that it covered his whole house.
    You do need POE for the Unify, but I think they provide an adapter for the LR and Pro models as most consumer routers do not support it.
    Note that the Ubiquity is not a router just an AP, so you need to be able to connect it back to a router.
    Cheers.

    • Thanks hedess :) Thinking about the Unify LR

  • +1

    OP, I had the exact same problems as you, and used your solution No 2.

    I had the CG3000V2 Optus Cable modem, which had poor wifi range, gave poor speeds over wifi, and would drop out its wifi connection at least once per day, requiring a restart.

    I bought a Netgear R8000, and the setup could not have been simpler. You literally go into the firmware on the Optus supplied modem and select bridge mode. Then plug in your R8000, and connect to that network.

    The R8000 takes care of all the routing and the CG3000V2 essentially acts as a dumb access point.

    The difference was night and day.

    The R8000 provides marginally better range on the 2.4ghz spectrum, but does not have drop outs and has considerably better wifi speed. The 5ghz bands provide very fast speed. An added bonus was that the dual core processor on the R8000 handles my network and switch much better, and I saw improvements in throughput across all my devices (wired and wireless).

    The cherry on the cake was the fact that the R8000 somehow increased the internet speeds (Im gathering the CG3000 crappy processors couldn't handle routing 20 devices and serving the internet). My speed went from around 80mbps wired up to about 104mbps with the R8000 running the show. Even wireless speeds top 100mbps unless I am several walls away.

    Its a win win. Bare in mind though that despite the R8000 being pretty much the bee's knees in terms of a router, it can't perform miracles. During my home renovation I had to move the router from a central location in the house to out the back of my house (a red brick federation with some very thick walls). The router on 2.4ghz can just reach the front of the house from the back of the house, so If you have a large house with thick solid walls, an R8000 and a wired in range extender will be required.

    I got my R8000 for around the $220 mark. Worth every penny.

  • Btw the people who post in this thread about not bridging are wrong and obviously haven't dealt with the crappy Optus Cable modem hardware. Bridging this modem is exactly what you should do. Dump its crappy wireless internet performance.

    • I've used Optus CG3000v2's before and not had any problems. The Wi-Fi might not reach as far as others, but not had any dropouts or anything like that which would require resetting it.

      I would suppose that if OP is having actual modem issues (and Optus won't replace) then bridging mode would be worth it, and should go for the Netgear or the Asus in case he wants to move to bridging in the future.

      • The wifi on it is a piece of shit.

        • I have had to extend it on CG3000v2 because it doesn't reach far enough, but using it within a few rooms around it - no problem. Main issue is that Optus techs are lazy these days and like to install the outlet at the very front of the house which is a very bad position for Wi-Fi.

        • @The Land of Smeg: Speeds are terrible on the CG3000V2

  • +1

    I ended up getting a new Netgear R8000 for 200+, will experiment with set up to find best Wi-Fi

    • -1

      Just bridge it, will take 5 minutes, and the difference will be remarkable across the board. Don't worry about creating additional APs.

    • Actually the deal fell through, seller non-responsive. Devo. Ended up getting ASUS RT-AC68U for 205 (with Ebay promo)

  • +1

    I also had very similar problem and a similar setup, but in my case I was running Ethernet cable to my Fetch TV box, so my setup was a little simpler.

    What I ended up doing was:

    1. Left Optus modem running as it was
    2. Ran an Ethernet cable from the Optus router to the centre of the house where I placed a new Netgear R7000
    3. Put the R7000 into AP mode

    I wasn't able to turn the Optus router into bridge mode as I use all four of its LAN ports. (These get turned off when in bridge mode)

    So now I have two separate wifi networks that I can use. I use the Optus router for devices in the front of the house and the R7000 for rest of the house. I decided to have two different SSID's so that I am always aware of what router my device is using.

    The R7000 is performing very well! For most of the house I can achieve wifi speeds of 70-95 Mbps (measured using Speedtest on my mobile or a Macbook). I can also confirm that the coverage is also far greater.

  • Hi everyone, networking noob here!
    So I did the setup very similar to @The Land of Smeg suggested, with Optus router activated and an ASUS RT-56U router attached to it via powerline adapters as an access point. Everything seems to be working fine, I just have a coupla questions.
    1. I attached my outgoing powerline adapter to the WAN port of my AP router instead of the LAN port. I've heard many suggestions on forums saying that it should be attached to the LAN port. What's the difference between those two and why should I attach it to the LAN port if my internet is broadcasting just fine through my AP router when plugged into the WAN port?
    2. Is there anyway to have the inbuilt router in Netgear modem as an AP and make my ASUS router the primary router?

    Thanks for your time if you've read this far and even more so if you can provide an answer! :D

    • +1

      1: If the router you are using supports AP mode, it probably doesn't matter which port you use (it will automatically convert it into a LAN port). Some routers in AP mode state not to leave the WAN port connected if you do AP mode (because it doesn't have that functionality to be able to convert it into a LAN port) and if you are manually configuring a router to be an AP (even though it doesn't specifically support 'AP mode') by disabling the DHCP server, then the WAN port certainly won't work.

      The technical difference is that LAN and WAN ports are supposed to be for totally separate networks (and it is the router that actually routes between the two), however some routers have the software capability to completely override the stated purpose of that physical RJ45 socket, meaning that even though it physically says "WAN" on the unit, the software can make it function as a LAN port anyway.

      2: No it is not possible, at least not without a horribly convoluted setup that would make most networking peoples' head spin. It would be totally unsupportable, potentially unreliable, and any sane person who saw it would rip it out (puzzled how it was even working to begin with) than to try to understand it.

      If you don't want to use the Optus modem for routing, your best bet is to use Bridge Mode and get a 3rd device to be the Wireless Access Point.

      The other thing you could do is a double-NAT (even though it's frowned upon). To do this you have both routers in routing mode, both routers need to have separate IP address spaces (eg: Optus on 192.168.2.1, router 2 on 192.168.3.1 - I use .2. & .3. so that any restore to factory settings doesn't cause conflict on .0. & .1.) and on the Optus router you give router 2 a reserved IP address (eg: 192.168.2.2) and setup DMZ on the Optus router to point all traffic to 192.168.2.2

      Whatever routing functionality you were expecting to get out of 2nd router (eg: Internet Filtering, Traffic Shaping) will only work while the device is connected to the 2nd router. Optus router will have your devices connecting raw. So I'd recommend having separate Wi-Fi network names (and separate password too if it's for filtering) so that you can control that separation. Also if you have some devices behind 2nd router that you wish to connect to from Optus router or vise-versa, that's going to be extremely difficult.

      Then there are some ISP routers which try to be clever to detect double-NAT situations and block you from doing so. But I've only had this on a Bigpond modem.

      I have done a double-NAT before when running a VOIP phone off an Optus Cable Modem, and using 2nd router with a bandwidth limiter on it to stop the rest of the traffic from using too much Bandwidth which would interfere with the phones. Works great. But that falls on my shoulders to support that.

      • Sorry for the late reply, but thank you for responding to my question. I think I'll just leave my setup as it is since the internet works. After all, why fix what's not broken. :)

  • If you were truly OzB then you would be stealing your neighbours wifi.
    Nowhere has god said, thou shalt not covet thy neighbours wifi !

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